Reilly
Many thanks! Learning everyday.
Normally i used to have smaller models. I do love small ones actuall, and i dont have a car so i build mobile ones.
My plan is to build a 1:35 s boot. Doesnt have to be that accurate, im a noob so clsoe will be good enough. Haha.
Cheeres!

I have the hull. I have the fittings from battlecraft and excellent they are too. I also have 4 brass props plus the A frames. All i need is the time a space to start this build. First i need a larger shed. Too much work and no play! makes Jack a dull boy😊

Nothing really to add to the above conversations, but here are three pictures of a superbly detailed MTB variant dog boat that was exhibited at last weekend's London Model Engineering Exhibition. Unfortunately I don't have the details of which club stand it was on or who the builder was - perhaps someone knows as he deserves some recognition. I still haven't made a start on my D as Miranda is still a work in progress (very slow progress!) and my model engineering activities are taking most of my time.
Smiffy

If you decided to go the gf hull route suggest look at the MTBHulls site. The have s welll deserved reputation for accuracy and quality

Sakibian,
My friend Graham built his E-boat with a fibreglass hull but scratch-built everything else. He does magnificent detail work.

For you to build this hull you first need to get the plans to the scale you want to build. 1/24 is good for these models. The cross sections are essential. You need to determine how many bulkhead frames you will require. You won't require as many as shown on their plan and photos - maybe less than half - as many as will enable you to support the stringers to give you a shape of the hull on to which you can fix the planking or skin.

The frames you choose need to be at or very close to cross sections, so you can use them to mark and cut your frames. I use 5mm plywood. There is a photo of my Fairmile D frame earlier in this series of posts.

One of my earliest posts on this website was a Youtube video with the E-boat and my Fairmile D in action with sound effects.

"........Regards, Doug 😎
BTW: still waiting for the pics / videos of your 'Hooben' (?) and the Perkasa...."

That reminds me - how are you coming along with the Taycol Board tests? And the modified circuit? I remain interested to see what you have done. Have I missed the post?

".........Do those boards follow the circuit diagrams on the Taycol web site? I seem to remember that you said you had 'refined them slightly'?
Hi Dodgy,
The board for Colin's Supermarine yes. After I modified my original version when I discovered excessive heating effects during initial trials.
The 'little ones' I made for my Taycol Target no, not quite!
Will publish details, with wiring diagrams and test results, in the relevant blogs shortly.
Cheers, Doug 😎..........."

Hey o Reilly!
Yep saw the plans!
Can you help me with something? Should I print the plans then cut the cross section by myself? Or any other ideas?
How did your friend built that one? Did he buy the kit or Scratch built?
Regards and thanks!

Hi Sakibian,
The PT boat site now sells stuff too, but was originally a site where the author John Drain described how he was building his PT boat and then the E-boat. There are good plans and examples of how he has constructed these boats.

My Fairmile D was made from plywood frames, pine stringers, planked and skinned with balsa and then fibreglassed. it was a very interesting and difficult shape, but very satisfying once completed. it sails beautifully in the most difficult conditions.

I have also included a few more pics of my friend's E-boat with the newer camouflage for further inspiration.

Hello Reilly,
Sorry for my late reply. The link you gave me, https://model-boats.com/sys_files/ajax/link_out?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pt-boat.com%2F
I think they sells kits.
I'm afraid I would like to 0- 100% myself 😉. But still, thanks a lot. I can watch and learn to build one. I just fear schnellboote bcz the hull looks terrifying. The torpedo hols, aft deck etc.
If it was flat would be much easier 🙄😭

Thanks Haig👍
I just hope Andy is still around.
Maybe a variant of my four screw setup for my HMS Belfast could help him. I'm going to upgrade it with differential ESC control for the two outer motors to assist the steering, the 'beast' (125cm), only has one rudder.
I also use SLAs (and brushed motors) in such large displacement hulls, but for planing hulls these days the 'norm' must surely be brushless and LiPo (or at least HiPower NiMh😉).
G'night from frozen Munich 😡
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi John,
You seem to have missed the point entirely, as you also did with your first post on this thread, in which instead of trying to help Andy and answer his question you attempt to dissuade him from his goal.
Unfortunately I missed Andy's question back in March as I was embroiled with family matters. BUT, if he hasn't in the meantime been 'scared off' by the lack of constructive response I will do my best to help, having several times been down the road of multiple screws, as have many other better constructors than me on this site.
Nearly all my ships have two, three or even four screws. Only the Sea Scout and ancient Billing Boats fish cutter (a restoration and conversion from static to RC project) have single screws - as per originals.
About a year ago I acquired a model of a US Elco PTB fitted with two shafts. I am restoring it, rebuilding as Kennedy's PT109, and will fit the third shaft to complete it to scale as per original. Why? Because that's what scale modelling is about and because it's a challenge - pushing limits.
Far be it from me to decry or put down anyone (as you now seem to be trying with me). We all have the enthusiasm (or we wouldn't be here) and do the best we can with the skills nature gave us and what the budget and state of health allows.
I have often been astounded and appropriately applauded, and supported where I can, what fellow members have achieved with very limited resources and under very different circumstances from those we in the so called 'Western World' enjoy. That guy in Bangladesh blows my mind with what he manages in the back of beyond! Look for his post about his March '71 boats.
WHEN I pitch in here I try to do so with constructive assistance, drawn from my own modelling experience and a lifetime spent working with navies and shipyards, to help a guy achieve his aims and dreams.
NOT to immediately deflate him by saying 'Why do that? I did mine this way, it's not what you want but it works for me'.
So far the Likes, PMs and mail feedback, request for assisitance I have tell me I'm doing something right. if I do boob (we're all human) I'm prepared to admit it and make amends / corrections.
I have no idea what this 'Hooben' is that you yatter on about BUT -
if "every little detail (is) reproduced with superb accuracy" why then ruin the overall effect by not continuing this attention to detail on the underwater ship and fitting shafts and screws appropriately?
Whatever you do have fun with it, but don't dissuade others from pursuing their dreams.
True there are "many roads to travel before one reaches there (!sic) destination" BUT as Confucius said "Every journey begins with the first step." if at the first step someone says 'Your destination is the wrong one' instead of offering a roadmap ..... !
Regards, Doug 😎
BTW: still waiting for the pics / videos of your 'Hooben' (?) and the Perkasa.

Not suggesting Doug dosn't give good advice or is nothing other than a skilled builder, but the way that post was written came across to me as I described.
Is it such a problem if my boat wont run for more than 10 minuets at full steam, come on man how often do you imagine that scenario evolves, most of the time is spent gently cruising around the pond with the occasional full throttle run to wake up the old farts. Tut Tut such disgraceful behaviour.

I am afraid that I disagree with the comments about Doug. They do not reflect Doug's comments or intentions. We are here to offer assistance to those that request it and others that may learn from the comments etc. Doug offers some of the best most practical advice from his experience.
A Fairmile D had 4 engines and props. if you want to recreate it as a true scale model then that is the the aim.

You are entitled to have one prop, one engine and one SLA battery in your boat. it may plane for approx 10 minutes before it slows and drops off the plane. I had such an arrangement a few decades ago in an old MTB, but have learned from it and moved on. I would not advise this arrangement with all the newer motors, battery types and ESCs available.

My Fairmile D has 2 x Speed 700 motors and NiMH batteries. it runs on plane for an hour or more. My newer Vosper MTB and La Combattante III boats have 2 x brushless motors each and the same NiMH battery packs - my choice. Other people use LiPo batteries.

We respect all modellers and their quest to build 'their' own models. Nothing wrong with having the best advice available, so modellers can make up their own minds.

Wouldn't call a Precident Perkasa a quickbuild, runabout or ARTR even though there isn't much realistic detail involved, the Hooben however is another matter with every little detail reproduced with superb accuracy.
Life is hard enough as it is why make it harder.
You are coming across as a pretentious perfectionist who puts down others who don't subscribe to your personal ethos.
Not all members are talented miniature marine engineers but still have the same enthusiasm for the hobby.
No one should decry them for there lack of skill, if RTR, ARTR, quickbuild or runabout is the limit of there ability, so what !!, they still enjoy the hobby and that's what it is all about.
There are many roads to travel before one reaches there destination and the route one takes is up to them !
John

Hi biker,
Depends on whether you want to build true scale model and build it 'right', or just a near scale 'Runabout'.
Rowen has learned (with a little help form his friends 😉) to build it right which is extremely satisfying and the correct detail underwater truly compliments his superb detailing above the waterline.
To me the two are inseparable.
Seems to me that that is what Andy wants as well. I applaud him.
About time we gave him some constructive answers - but first we need to know something about his boat:-
Length, beam, probable max weight?

If all you want is a near scale quickbuild fast runabout John there are plenty of ARTR/RTR options on the market.
But then; that's just my opinion - and whadda I know!😁
Look forward to at least some pics / vids of your boat in action Biker.
Cheers, Doug 😎

Unless you are determined to build to scale, the single motor/screw combination is probably the best. Have encountered several challenges with my triple motor/screw Brave Borderer (the predecessor to the Perkasa) layout. Now have the satisfaction though of setting off to build a scale model and have achieved it.

Don't quite understand why you would want to run four props & motors. One of my fleet is a old Precident Perkasa, in all wood including the hull. Powered by a 12v 7ah lead acid battery a single 550 motor and a three blade prop.
As you can probably imagine she is heavy but still gets on the plane to mimic the real thing, will admit the motor did get a bit hot untill I fitted a heat sink with fan cooling.
I also have a Hooben Perkasa in injection moulded plastic, yet to be built but intend to use the same set up.
Cheers for now
John👍

Hi Sakibian,
Reilly built the Fairmile MTB, NOT the Schnellboot, as far as I know 😉
Although I do agree that it is a stunning model, as is Reilly's MTB.
Great detail and realism. Hat off Reilly 👍👍👍
G'night 'Up Over' and G'mornin 'Down Under'. 😎

The E-boat was built and belongs to a friend of mine - Graham Smithwick. it is a fibreglass hull and he has had it for a long time. There are plenty of resources on E-boats. This is a very good one.
http://www.pt-boat.com/
I have also included some photos of his E-boat before the newer camouflage.

The schnellboote looks stunning! Where did you get the criss section design? Would love to build one of them

I have scratch-built a Fairmile D in 1/24 scale. if you look through my posts/videos you will see it. I used the Lambert-Ross Allied Coastal Forces book for the plan that I scaled up. Perhaps I should enter it in my boat harbour. Anatomy of a Ship is also a good source of information. I built mine from Balsawood/Pine and fibreglassed it. Attached are a few photos. Watch the videos. They may inspire you. I have previously posted these links under videos.

Further to the above post I have just received this book which I bought on Ebay - superb scale detail of lots of dog boats including colour references etc and MGB 658 is one of the boats featured. Also apologies to the memory of L.C. Reynolds (‘Elsie’ as we knew him at school, and I bet he knew it too!) as I forgot to mention his OBE.
Smiffy

Hi Andy
I am interested to read about your plans for a dog boat as I am thinking of doing the same (when my Thames steam launch is eventually finished....!). One reason that I am considering this is that my headmaster, when I was at Maidenhead Grammar School in the 1960's, was a former skipper of MGB 658 and I am lucky enough have autographed copies of two of his books. "Motor Gunboat 658" is a fascinating read if you haven't already come across it, as is "Dog Boats at War" with plenty of useful information and photographs - just two of the books by Len Reynolds DSC. (He rose from Navigating Officer to Captain during the war in the Mediterranean theatre and served on MGB 658 from its commissioning in 1943 to the war's end.) Apologies by the way if you already know all this!
Two questions if you don't mind - are you going to do a complete scratchbuild from plans or complete a fibreglass hull, and which/whose plans are you using? This may help my own decisions later on. I have seen that there are plenty of the appropriate weapons in 1/24th scale on the Deans website which should make life easier with the fiddly bits!
Very best wishes with the build.
Smiffy