Reilly
Many thanks! Learning everyday.
Normally i used to have smaller models. I do love small ones actuall, and i dont have a car so i build mobile ones.
My plan is to build a 1:35 s boot. Doesnt have to be that accurate, im a noob so clsoe will be good enough. Haha.
Cheeres!

I have the hull. I have the fittings from battlecraft and excellent they are too. I also have 4 brass props plus the A frames. All i need is the time a space to start this build. First i need a larger shed. Too much work and no play! makes Jack a dull boy😊

Nothing really to add to the above conversations, but here are three pictures of a superbly detailed MTB variant dog boat that was exhibited at last weekend's London Model Engineering Exhibition. Unfortunately I don't have the details of which club stand it was on or who the builder was - perhaps someone knows as he deserves some recognition. I still haven't made a start on my D as Miranda is still a work in progress (very slow progress!) and my model engineering activities are taking most of my time.
Smiffy

If you decided to go the gf hull route suggest look at the MTBHulls site. The have s welll deserved reputation for accuracy and quality

Sakibian,
My friend Graham built his E-boat with a fibreglass hull but scratch-built everything else. He does magnificent detail work.

For you to build this hull you first need to get the plans to the scale you want to build. 1/24 is good for these models. The cross sections are essential. You need to determine how many bulkhead frames you will require. You won't require as many as shown on their plan and photos - maybe less than half - as many as will enable you to support the stringers to give you a shape of the hull on to which you can fix the planking or skin.

The frames you choose need to be at or very close to cross sections, so you can use them to mark and cut your frames. I use 5mm plywood. There is a photo of my Fairmile D frame earlier in this series of posts.

One of my earliest posts on this website was a Youtube video with the E-boat and my Fairmile D in action with sound effects.

"........Regards, Doug 😎
BTW: still waiting for the pics / videos of your 'Hooben' (?) and the Perkasa...."

That reminds me - how are you coming along with the Taycol Board tests? And the modified circuit? I remain interested to see what you have done. Have I missed the post?

".........Do those boards follow the circuit diagrams on the Taycol web site? I seem to remember that you said you had 'refined them slightly'?
Hi Dodgy,
The board for Colin's Supermarine yes. After I modified my original version when I discovered excessive heating effects during initial trials.
The 'little ones' I made for my Taycol Target no, not quite!
Will publish details, with wiring diagrams and test results, in the relevant blogs shortly.
Cheers, Doug 😎..........."

Hey o Reilly!
Yep saw the plans!
Can you help me with something? Should I print the plans then cut the cross section by myself? Or any other ideas?
How did your friend built that one? Did he buy the kit or Scratch built?
Regards and thanks!

Hi Sakibian,
The PT boat site now sells stuff too, but was originally a site where the author John Drain described how he was building his PT boat and then the E-boat. There are good plans and examples of how he has constructed these boats.

My Fairmile D was made from plywood frames, pine stringers, planked and skinned with balsa and then fibreglassed. it was a very interesting and difficult shape, but very satisfying once completed. it sails beautifully in the most difficult conditions.

I have also included a few more pics of my friend's E-boat with the newer camouflage for further inspiration.

Hello Reilly,
Sorry for my late reply. The link you gave me,

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Thanks Haig👍
I just hope Andy is still around.
Maybe a variant of my four screw setup for my HMS Belfast could help him. I'm going to upgrade it with differential ESC control for the two outer motors to assist the steering, the 'beast' (125cm), only has one rudder.
I also use SLAs (and brushed motors) in such large displacement hulls, but for planing hulls these days the 'norm' must surely be brushless and LiPo (or at least HiPower NiMh😉).
G'night from frozen Munich 😡
Cheers, Doug 😎