Hi DodgyGeezer

I am about half full from the first fill from back in 2017, I do put the top back on the bottle between gluing parts so that my help.

Fred

That is indeed a bargain!

I have noticed that my small bottles of MEK tend to disappear through evaporation more rapidly than through use! Have you noticed any such issue?

Hi Redpmg

That is a long way to just get some glue, I have been trying out the glue on P/C not a good idea so for now only using it for gluing wood.

I use this for all my P/C work 1 LITRE PURE 99.9% MEK METHYL ETHYL KETONE SOLVENT 1L 2-BUTANONE cost me £7.99 via eBay in 2017, when a small bottle can cost you just under £3.00 that is a big saving.

Fred

Natch! 😉
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/gluten-free-pasta

Are said noodles gluten free 😂😂

You're not supposed to boil 'em in the pool Crewman! 😂
Add a few gallons of olive oil to help with the filters.
Might make the noodle hard to stick though 😮
"If I can spread a little joy and laughter as I shuffle across this mortal coil ....."

Make a hell of a mess in the pool Admiral - block all the filters I should think!

Boil for 8 to 10 minutes until al dente (to the tooth!)
It makes 'em easier to bend😂🤣
Glue with tomato or cheese sauce to taste. Grated parmesan helps! 😜

They are called Pool Noodles for kids to play with in a swimming pool. Looks like the foam insulation you get on pipes but comes in bright colours, about 2m long 2 1/2" wide . There was an article in a recent Model Boats on a club in the US that uses them as have-a-go boats.

Simply bend the noodles around a deck/base , glue noodle to itself , waterproof the edges of the already inserted deck into the previously cut slit using acrylic sealant top & bottom , then build superstructure over high coaming on the deck, insert prop, motor etc of your choice. Waterproof wood etc. With the foam tubes acting like the inflatables on a full size boat (all round the boat NOT open at the rear) . Big boat and very seaworthy a la a rubber duck (RIB)

Pool Noodles are the foam insulation for pipes, used as flotation devices. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pool_noodle

They can be used as fenders for large model boats, and look very similar to the inflated tubes in an RIB, so they can be used to make RIB hulls. But joining them and shaping them is often a problem...

What are noodles please and how do you model with them?

M EK will join most plastics but the best adhesive I've found is Plastic Magic. It even joins so called impossible plastics. I don't know of one it won't join

Hi Fred,
better half advises me that Gorilla glue can be found in a shop 55km away. Hope its worth the trip in that it works . Decided to build a noodle tug as a rescue boat - looks to be more seaworthy than a pusher/springer type. Need that as sometimes I sail in the harbour here - can get a bit rough. Inspired by finding noodles in the local cheapy shop .
Strange harbour as it is in two parts - tremendous rip current in between as they are both built at an an angle to the normal wave action, even the big Sardine/Pilchard boats swing wildly in the channel. Visiting boats are a pleasure to watch - just like the Circus ! There was a small cruise ship (100 odd Pax) - parked in the roads - and rolling about 25to30 degrees each way . Would not like to have been aboard her.

Hi Redpmg

The one that I have is the non foaming, I must have had it for at least a year now, it is the clear type and when I bought it it had just come onto the market cost me just over £8.00, for non wood you wet one of the pieces then place the glued piece in place, if I remember right you then have some thing like two hours before it is permanent.

Fred

Thanks Martin - agree with you about testing etc - in my case I was lucky as George told me the parts were ABS . Did not know that ordinary styrene glue would not touch it at the time. Lucky to have had a bottle of mek poly on hand.
See that often epoxy is used to glue deck beams etc to glass fibre Hulls - have found if epoxy gets wet enough it looses adhesion. We used to get a foamy type of Poly glue here meant for joining kitchen counter tops - very strong - dries hard (but don't get it on your skin - harder to remove than Cyano).That would be ideal as it also melts a little of the polyester resin. Same applies as for styrene glue though - overdo it and your hull distorts.

Fred - does that Gorilla glue foam a little ? See that the US "Noodle" boats use it to glue the noodles together

Hi Red,
I will be truthful I do not know, I have had hulls in the past that were vacuum formed and not knowing what the plastic was just tried to glue another small piece of plastic to it in a place that would not be noticeable and if that didn't stick properly then I would try a different glue.
There are so many types of plastics and glues out there now it is just a case of experimenting
The only other thing I can recommend is that you do a bit of research on the internet but unless you know what the material is that you need to glue then that would be a waste of time.
Experimentation is the key, that Is one reason why I use the materials that I do.
Maybe there is another member on this site that has a lot more knowledge about this subject.
Sorry if I have been unable to help much.

Martin - don't you have to use something like Mek Poly for ABS . I bought a model tug kit with ABS hull (George Turner) - ordinary polystyrene cement did not even touch it The UHU version which is stronger than the other types did not work. Tried 4 different glues with nothing doing then used Mek Poly - instant bond. Been told that its actually used as a hardener for polyester resin - so got 500ml of hardener (cheap) but have not had cause to use it yet.

Just a quickie it is not a good idea to glue onto paint as you are only gluing to the paint not to the main part of the vessel.

I must say that on my all wood TID I have so far only used Gorilla clear and that seems to stick like S**t to a blanket.

Fred

Hi Mouldbuilder,
Well I am a bit old school and I tend to use the same materials that I know and that includes glue.
I tend to use off cuts of the material that I am using and try the glue first if it holds well then I will use it if not I try something else.
Firstly ABS is a form of styrene.
The glue that I use for Styrene melts the surface of the plastic hence bonds it together.
Secondly your question on gluing painted surfaces, a lot depends on the situation some times you are unable to scrape the paint off as you just cannot get at it properly so you have no choice.
In that instance I use super glue, I dip in a piece of wire in the glue and then dab it directly on the joint and as ( Onetenor ) said it will run down the joint by capillary action.
As long as you do not disturb it the glue will air dry.
Super glue was mainly designed for medical use originally to glue skin together so it works best if a very small amount is used and pressure is applied for a few seconds.
This is a subject that can get very technical so my answer would be test first.
I have a little tip for filling and the same technique can apply to some glues.
I will post it.
I hope this makes sense.

Martin.

Best suggestion i Can give is a good industrial barrier cream. Like Rosalex but more modern.Better for Elf'n safety too.Use cocktail sticks or splints of wood to apply small amounts of glue etc. You can't be that bad if you're on the 3rd build though.We all suffer for our hobby like that to some extent . I well remember biting balsa and plastic cement off my fingers. Barring solvents ( Chloroform ,Ether , Acetone,Celly thinners etc) still the best way to shift it. Also use disposable tweezers to handle small parts or steel ones you can scrape or burn off Good luck John.😛 P S I found a liquid called Plastic Magic. It is applied to the closed( close fitting )joint with the tip of a fine brush. Just a drop. It shoots along the joint by capillary action. Gravity helps too.🤔. I've yet to find a plastic it won't glue/join.brilliant stuff. regards holding things steady to dry many things can be used. Pins,bulldog ,clips,clothes pegs, steel blocks,Lego type blocks

Thanks Mike and Martin.
I understand that glue choice is quite a subject and I have learned a lot in the past year. There is one thing I would really like your thoughts on though. How do you apply the glues so that they are contained to the area being glued and do not spill out of the joints. How do you hold the parts together to set. I have looked closely at both of your build blogs and the thing I do not see is glue evidence. Do not look at my pictures too closely. Glue is evident.😊
Martin, when you glue to painted areas, do you avoid quick setting super glues. Is Plasticard Styrene? Do you have any experience sticking ABS? Thanks.

I think this is a subject that many of us have pondered and discussed. I where possible try to use a single material for a particular structure so that the adhesive used is the recommended one for that material be it wood, metal, plastic, or glass plus the many variants of each. Then comes the issue of joining dissimilar materials for example styrene to wood styrene adhesive, so a contact adhesive or a specific epoxy could be suitable. However now you should also consider the type of joint you are using and the resultant forces that will be applied to the joint as this will greatly affect the adhesive used. I have uploaded a couple of charts which are just very basic concepts of joint type and possible adhesives but this is a subject that cant be covered in a simple blog
PS Gorrila glue makes some interesting claims🙈🙉🙊
good look

Hi,
For the plastic card I use humbrol liquid poly (see photo)and applied with a small paint brush.
And I also use super glue and if I apply it to small areas after it has been painted I use a thin piece if electrical wire, (sometimes just one strand)and for a larger area I use a cocktail stick.
For two part epoxy I use different sizes of plastic card depending on how much I use.
I hope this helps.