By the way JB,
Welcome to the dizzy heights of Flag Rank; Commodore, NATO OF6👍
You may now fly attached flag, but ONLY when actually aboard your flagship!😁
Cheers, FLEET 😎

Alls well that ends well Mike,
That's what we're here for 👍
Have followed your Blog with awe😮
I can 'make things work' but get nowhere near your detailing quality!
I'll redesignate my attempts as "Stand Off" 😉
Looking forward very much to your Trials vid🤓
Cheers, Doug 😎

Problems solved👍
I made 2 request for help, firstly for a spare "94" transfer, which was solved by Rob, and second a spare Turnigy RC switch which was solved by Peter, plus an offer of building a switch from Graham and all the helpful suggestions from others I'm really grateful for all the help that you get on the is forum its really amazing 😁

Hi Mike.
I am sure that I have a couple of new Turnigy switches at home you could use and send me replacements when yours arrive. If you would like, PM me with address and I will send on my return to UK on Wednesday.
Peter.
BTW Just found one here in Hungary. I have another at home so let me know.😊

Mike, forgot to mention that they have a nice blue LED on the board which for some unknown reason the have enclosed in the cover. If you pop the cover open and drill a hole in the appropriate place, it shows up when switched on. (see holes drilled in pic).
JB

RE I think that may have to be the answer.
Hi Mike, I've posted these a number of times as suggestions for switches. They are made by GT Power and work very well. I've used them in the HSL for the water pump and led lighting (recently pinched the lighting one to run the smoker and air pump in the same boat, ran out of channels) and also in the ST for the same purpose. These will handle 10A (supposedly)and can be fed with (supposedly) up to 40v and are only switched by the receiver as apposed to powered by it.
You just have to be careful with any Chinese stuff as their descriptions can be wrong (ie JST plug male and female plugs are often referred to in adverts the wrong way round - easy to do as the plugs are opposite to what nature intended😉. (I think I may have knackered a few of mine not being awake while plugging power leads into the outputs) Cheap enough to buy a few of at a time. They were only around $9 NZ a while back but have jumped to around $12 in a few years (probably some of it because we are now getting whacked with 15% 'grab and snatch tax' since Dec 1 /19)

I have just purchased another one from RC Echo (pic) who I have dealt with for a number of years and have not let me down yet (you even get an instant receipt/invoice and another when it arrives) which is unusual for a Chinese Co. They have a lot of alternative stuff to HK and the prices are similar. As usual 'yer pays yer money and takes yer chances' - especially from H-King. RC Echo is a Hong Kong Co ( as is H-King,) -so probably a bit more reliable. they also have a PayPal option which is a bit of insurance.
JB

Hi Doug.
Nothing wrong with your eyes chum, the switch is made or sold by 'orangeRX' according to the very poor documentation that Mike posted.
Rob.

Hi again,
Found this further down the page Rob posted, looks useful and not so pricey!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Transmitter-Receiver-Controlled-ON-OFF-RX-Switch-10AMP-Drone-Plane-Boat-Car/254457084477?_trkparms=aid%3D555021%26algo%3DPL.SIMRVI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20190711100440%26meid%3Dcdd049d251ec46c9a97783c85015c870%26pid%3D100752%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D202660286894%26itm%3D254457084477%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100752.m1982
Doug 😎

"UPDATE.
Graham is quite correct.
Turns out that it does take it's supply from the RX 😮"
That was my take on the 2A switch Rob.
"Perhaps use the two Turnigy's for the lighting circuits and the Orange one with a relay and separate supply for the pump? "
Orange one? I must be going colour blind.🙈
Anyway, I would suggest using the two switches shown by Mike as follows-
I would use the 10A switch for the pump, which apparently takes 2A max, and the 2A switch for lighting.
I assume the lighting will be LED chains which will only need a few tens of mA per circuit. The RX battery / BEC will hardly notice that.😉

I don't see any way to use the 2A switch with a separate load battery without modifying it, difficult, or damaging it☹️
The output wires of the 2A switch DO need to be connected with the correct polarity or it would probably destroy the output switching transistor and possibly short circuit ⚡the input supply from the RX, thus maybe killing the whole system.
---> 'Dead in the water'😭 Pack your swimming trunks and a beach towel Mike!
The input and output - wires are common!! The output having a black tracer on the - lead. I.e. you can't wire it like the Turnigy switch.
That's my 'Chip' Rob, hope it helps you Mike.🤞
Cheers, Doug 😎
BTW: What I miss in both so called specs is a latching mode. Which is why I like the Action switches. You can set them to latch / unlatch or to only be ON when the TX switch or stick is activated.

I think all things considered the Orange RX is poorly documented and can't be described as a substitute for the Turnigy product.
And £47 for the real thing is taking the p*5" 😮 but that's supply and demand for you!

I think that may have to be the answer.
By the way the spec you pointed out wasn't on the ebay seller I used thanks for spotting that, its a pity I didn't🤔

Perhaps use the two Turnigy's for the lighting circuits and the Orange one with a relay and separate supply for the pump?

If only Rob they don't have any available I did find 1 at £47 but gave that a miss
Ill have to wait for Hobbyking

UPDATE.
Graham is quite correct.
Turns out that it does take it's supply from the RX 😮
This is from the description on eBay "This very simply passes the power from the receiver to the output when switched on, so the voltage out is the same as the battery/BEC that is powering the receiver. If you want to switch something with a higher current than 2 amps or higher voltage then you would need to add a relay."
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202660286894

You can get a Turnigy one on eBay though, a bit more than the HK price !
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192423790143

Rob.

Hi Mike.
I'm familiar with he Turnigy switch as you know, the OrangRX one is new to me.
I don't think it takes it's load from the receiver, certainly not a 2A.
I think it might switch a separate supply like the Turnigy and the polarity signs on the board are misleading?
Do a test circuit with it on it's own with a RX, separate load battery and load to check the operation.
The supplied documentation isn't very clear either.
Doug might chip in and confirm my thoughts🤔
I attach my rough circuit to show how I connected mine, remember that the RX neg and switched load neg have to be commoned for the Turnigy switch to operate correctly.
It's must be a pain that HK are out of stock, using all of the same switches would be so much simpler.
Rob.

See UPDATE.

Graham, I would agree, Turnigy are the preference but they are like hens teeth at the moment, I have them on back order with Hobbyking. The first "Orange switch" in the picture is powering some LEDS in the cabin and the Turnigy one is for the spot light. I do have another Turnigy for the pump system

Michael,

I have no first hand experience with these particular switches but, looking at the wiring diagrams, they do connect differently.

The second switch you have takes the power for the load from the receiver. The red and black output leads simply connect to the two terminals on the pump. If you use this one, you will need to be sure that, if you are using a BEC to power the receiver, it must have enough power rating to power the pump as well as the receiver, servos etc.

I would choose the Turnigy if I had these two options to choose from

Regards Graham93

More help required.
I have a Turnigy control switch which is rated at 30 V , 10A
In simple terms it has 2 red wires which I understand one to the pump and the other to power source and the black completes the circuit when actuated by the receiver?
I also have one of a different make, which is the issue, it has a red and a black - no mater how I wire it ( the same scenario as the Turnigy) one wire will connect to a wrong colour wire🙄. Do I just ignore the - on the first picture

Hi Mike,
👍 Then any ol' 5A switch will do, relay or FET output.
The dual 10A job from Action will give you a second option as well😁
Yes, the fuse is an absolute must!
Contrary to popular opinion it's not there to protect the load device, but to stop the wiring bursting into flames and destroying the whole boat / plane or whatever!🔥😭
Have fun,
Cheers, Doug 😎

Doug, Graham, thanks for your suggestions, I'm sure there's a solution in there and as you say first determine the load which I will do ASAP. The fuse is a must which I hadn't considered but will add. Thanks again.
Watch this space
PS found this spec sheet which answer's the question -
12 V water pump. Compact, self-aspiring pump of high performance for universal application in larger and smaller model boats and ships.

Operating voltage 6V-12V
Pump capacity approx. 1200ml/min @12V / approx 700ml/min @6v
Current drain: 2.8A @ 12V / 1.3A @6V
Dimensions approx. Ø 58x30 mm
Weight approx. 85g

Hi Peter,

With a regular motor, the higher the voltage, the more current it will draw - and the more water it will pump. Best to measure the current with an ammeter in one of the motor leads. Then you can check that your switch can handle it, and fit a fuse to protect things if something goes wrong.

Regards Graham

Just a thought.
If the pump is 6v to 12v and you use it with 7.4volts, is the Amperage draw more on 7.4v than it would be on 12v.
Thanks.
Peter.

I am pleased that this question has been asked. I have used the Turnigy switches for most applications so far and have just wired up a Krick water pump to one. I must admit that I never looked at the amperage rating. I must learn to look at this.
Thanks for the picture of your dual switch on a servo setup Doug. This will help regarding the ballast operation on my Gato Submarine.👍

Hi Michael,

I expect it will be fine, provided the pump draws less than the 10A switch rating.

I have used a home built RC switch with a similar spec for the pump on my Crash Tender. My pump is spec’d at 12v and is running from the 3S LiPo propulsion battery. It only draws about 1-2A normally. Everything worked fine until the pump seized (I think it had muck jammed in the pump gears, despite having a water filter in the plumbing) Fortunately I had 3A fuse in the pump circuit and it simply blew that. The RC switch survived intact.

Mornin' Michael,
First thing I do when deciding what RC switch to buy (or build) is to run a test to determine the max continuous current the switch must handle for the load I have in mind😉
Second; is the control element on the TX a simple ON/OFF switch or a three way ON/OFF/ON switch? The latter giving the possibility to control two special functions😊
From your query "or do I need a relay type ?" I construe that the Turnigy switch uses FETs for the switching output.
Personally I generally prefer encapsulated relays for such purpose as it eliminates even the small voltage drop across the transistor and reduces heating effects when operating high current loads. Which takes us back to the first thing I do😉
Using encapsulated relays eliminates the contact corrosion which plagued the early open relays😊
If your TX has (or can be retrofitted with) a three way switch I can heartily recommend the Action Electronics P91 Dual 10Amp switch, which would give you the option of a second fun function😁 Data sheet attached. Get 'em here -
https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p91-hi-load-twin-switcher.html
OK, so it uses FETs not relays, but they seem to have very low ON resistance and I've never had heating problems with them👍
Cheap alternative, which needs a bit more work and hull space, would be a servo with two micro switches mounted on top. Check the current capability of the microswitches before you part with the spondulucks!!
See attached pic , from my Sea Scout as dug out of the cellar after 25 years neglect! One microswitch was connected to a piston pump!
The other to a siren, both of which were experiments but did sterling service as kiddy's fingers deterrents when the boat was on the water close to shore or on the table next to the lake!😁
Looking forward to the action vid😊
Cheers, Doug 😎