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    Battery set up
    by nickcouldry πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ ( Master Seaman)
    πŸ“£










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    19 Posts 18 Replies 6 Photos 43 Likes
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    RHBaker
    Lieutenant Commander
    πŸ“ Battery set up
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    Country: πŸ‡¨πŸ‡¦ Canada
    Online: 5 hours ago
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    Thanks Doug,
    Next sea trials delayed as we are now in the midst of a β€œstay home order”. Rather pointless as boat activities are outdoors, but why would common sense influence politicians?
    One day - Inshallah!
    All well otherwise, hope things are with you and yours
    Rowen
    2
    RNinMunich
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    πŸ“ Battery set up
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    Country: πŸ‡©πŸ‡ͺ Germany
    Online: 3 hours ago
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    "Am doing this as the Auto style are "slow-blow" and tube rapid. Have found the Auto ones much better that the tube on brushless motors."
    I heartily agree Rowen πŸ‘
    Culprit is the surge (or so called In Rush current) which occurs when an electrical load, especially motors and other inductive loads, is first switched on.
    This surge current can often be much higher than the operating current when the load, e.g. motor, settles down to smooth running.
    (We won't here get into the question of back EMF effects on the installation when an inductive load like a motor is switched on!πŸ™„)
    You CAN get Slow Blow glass toob fuses, but (in my experience) generally only for relatively low current, a few amps perhaps. Not a lotta use for a high current ESC/motor combo! πŸ€”

    Trust all is well with you and yours πŸ‘πŸ€ž
    Looking forward to your next Sea Trials πŸ€“πŸ˜€
    Cheers, Doug 😎
    1
    Young at heart πŸ˜‰ Slightly older in other places.;-/ Cheers Doug
    RNinMunich
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    Country: πŸ‡©πŸ‡ͺ Germany
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    I'm with you Rowen and TD πŸ‘
    Standard refit task is glass clip type fuse holder out - blade type in πŸ˜‰
    Apart from anything else the contact resistance, and hence heating potential at high currents, should be less.
    I still have a stock of glass fuses so they get used for lighting and other low current special function circuits. Just in case the wheels fall off and the U NO wot hits the fan! πŸ€”
    Remember; fuses are there to stop the wiring going up in flames and destroying the model, not to protect the equipment at the end of the wire πŸ˜‰
    Cheers, Doug
    2
    Young at heart πŸ˜‰ Slightly older in other places.;-/ Cheers Doug
    RNinMunich
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    Exactamente Tora πŸ‘
    That's what I meant with a circuit breaker.
    Some are automatic as you say, some are manual reset.
    Check offers and specs on the WWW carefully folks πŸ€“
    Cheers, Doug 😎
    2
    Young at heart πŸ˜‰ Slightly older in other places.;-/ Cheers Doug
    RNinMunich
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    "could you recommend the correct type of wiring to get?"
    Hi Nick,
    Rule of thumb is 'Wire core not smaller than the wire size fitted to the the motor!
    Since your motor could draw up to 30Amps I would recommend a MINIMUM of 16 AWG (American Wire Gauge) 35Amp. 14 gauge to be on the safe side.
    AWG has more or less succeeded the old SWG (Standard Wire Gauge).
    Should be available at Halfords, or any decent car accessory / spares shop. Or of course Fleabay & Co πŸ˜‰ If possible get the type with silicone insulation, it's more flexible which eases installation.
    See attached pic of wire gauges, core size and current capacities.

    BTW: re fuse; many don't seem to realise that fuses are there to protect the wiring (stopping it bursting into flames!πŸ”₯😭) NOT specifically to protect the equipment connected πŸ˜‰
    Cheers, Doug 😎
    2
    Young at heart πŸ˜‰ Slightly older in other places.;-/ Cheers Doug
    RHBaker
    Lieutenant Commander
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    That is an idea!
    Have recently begun a migration of glass tube style fuses to the Auto spade type.
    Am doing this as the Auto style are "slow-blow" and tube rapid. Have found the Auto ones much better that the tube on brushless motors.
    Rather than use the in-line holders, 4 or 6 fuse holder blocks are readily available on Banggood or E Bay.
    3
    nickcouldry
    Master Seaman
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    Country: πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ United Kingdom
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    thanks toradog - i'll look into that - useful to know! 😊
    1
    nickcouldry
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    gotcha - thanks doug - could you recommend the correct type of wiring to get? (there seems to be quite a choice out there...)
    1
    ToraDog
    Warrant Officer
    πŸ“ Battery set up
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    Country: πŸ‡ΊπŸ‡Έ United States
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    Nick,
    Doug is spot on, but I might suggest an alternative to fuses. Most cars these days are using auto reset fuses in many applications. These come, like their glass and plastic cousins, in many amp ranges. The advantage of them is that when they pop, they will then cool down and reset. As long as the operator recognizes the issue is at hand, weed in the wheel, ect, then often one can limp to shore. They are a bit more expensive, but in the long run cheaper and one does not have to take the boat apart to replace them. I am replacing all of my glass fuses except the very small ones, ie 1/4 - 3 amps.
    cheers
    4
    RNinMunich
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    Good show Nick πŸ‘
    Following your 'antics' 😁 with interest.
    One more tip!
    " i'm thinking of positioning this and an isolation switch in the space under the front hatch in the bow along with the receiver..."
    It is preferable to keep the 'dirty' high current wiring, i.e. for ESC & motors well away from the antenna and all low current, i.e. signal wiring, to reduce / eliminate possible interference.
    Even with 2.4GHz sets motors (especially brushed) and ESCs can cause EMI problems.
    Keep the Batt-ESC-Motor wiring as short as possible and as far away from antennas and RX wiring as possible.
    Cheers 😎
    3
    Young at heart πŸ˜‰ Slightly older in other places.;-/ Cheers Doug
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