Hi Cheddarman, I hope I'm wrong, but this message is three years old.
The last message from nickcouldry was three years ago.
He may not read your request for help, or he may not read it for who knows how long.

Hi Nick. Have you got any pix from when you were building the MTB? Just got the planes so any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Doug,
Next sea trials delayed as we are now in the midst of a “stay home order”. Rather pointless as boat activities are outdoors, but why would common sense influence politicians?
One day - Inshallah!
All well otherwise, hope things are with you and yours
Rowen

"Am doing this as the Auto style are "slow-blow" and tube rapid. Have found the Auto ones much better that the tube on brushless motors."
I heartily agree Rowen 👍
Culprit is the surge (or so called In Rush current) which occurs when an electrical load, especially motors and other inductive loads, is first switched on.
This surge current can often be much higher than the operating current when the load, e.g. motor, settles down to smooth running.
(We won't here get into the question of back EMF effects on the installation when an inductive load like a motor is switched on!🙄)
You CAN get Slow Blow glass toob fuses, but (in my experience) generally only for relatively low current, a few amps perhaps. Not a lotta use for a high current ESC/motor combo! 🤔

Trust all is well with you and yours 👍🤞
Looking forward to your next Sea Trials 🤓😀
Cheers, Doug 😎

I'm with you Rowen and TD 👍
Standard refit task is glass clip type fuse holder out - blade type in 😉
Apart from anything else the contact resistance, and hence heating potential at high currents, should be less.
I still have a stock of glass fuses so they get used for lighting and other low current special function circuits. Just in case the wheels fall off and the U NO wot hits the fan! 🤔
Remember; fuses are there to stop the wiring going up in flames and destroying the model, not to protect the equipment at the end of the wire 😉
Cheers, Doug

Exactamente Tora 👍
That's what I meant with a circuit breaker.
Some are automatic as you say, some are manual reset.
Check offers and specs on the WWW carefully folks 🤓
Cheers, Doug 😎

"could you recommend the correct type of wiring to get?"
Hi Nick,
Rule of thumb is 'Wire core not smaller than the wire size fitted to the the motor!
Since your motor could draw up to 30Amps I would recommend a MINIMUM of 16 AWG (American Wire Gauge) 35Amp. 14 gauge to be on the safe side.
AWG has more or less succeeded the old SWG (Standard Wire Gauge).
Should be available at Halfords, or any decent car accessory / spares shop. Or of course Fleabay & Co 😉 If possible get the type with silicone insulation, it's more flexible which eases installation.
See attached pic of wire gauges, core size and current capacities.

BTW: re fuse; many don't seem to realise that fuses are there to protect the wiring (stopping it bursting into flames!🔥😭) NOT specifically to protect the equipment connected 😉
Cheers, Doug 😎

That is an idea!
Have recently begun a migration of glass tube style fuses to the Auto spade type.
Am doing this as the Auto style are "slow-blow" and tube rapid. Have found the Auto ones much better that the tube on brushless motors.
Rather than use the in-line holders, 4 or 6 fuse holder blocks are readily available on Banggood or E Bay.

thanks toradog - i'll look into that - useful to know! 😊

gotcha - thanks doug - could you recommend the correct type of wiring to get? (there seems to be quite a choice out there...)