No problem Richard, credit where credit is due and it is a really nice boat you have there. You are right it is a Mountfleet Kit and the larger of the two puffers The Highlander. my thing is Steam and all of my boats have steam engines a mixture of working boats and open launches. Check out my harbour I have a small fleet. Your rudder servo, mount it perfectly in line with the rudder post, and go for the push and pull method, keep the servo operating arms the same length as the operating arms on the rudder post, so it all looks nice and square, as per this photo but minus the green cogs, (which operates a flexible drive for the ship's wheel.) With the rudder in the straight-ahead position, and the servo switched on and in the neutral position fit the servo linkage and all will be well. Regards, Gary. Any questions don't hesitate.

Thank you Gary, appreciate the compliments! It’s taken 3 years to get this far, it’s been a life saver during the lockdowns.

Your rear cabin looks like a Clyde Puffer? Is it a scratch build or a kit? Think those old puffers were dam good.

I agree l think will have to dig some of that block balsa out to make room, just hope l can get the linkage right to the rudder that’s something l find very difficult.

Thanks for all your time and help, much appreciated,

Richard

Hi Richard, and firstly may I congratulate you on a very nice neat looking boat. Looking at your photos you have more than enough room to fit a normal servo under the rear hatch, mind you will have to do a little excavating into the plywood frames and balsa blocks. to be on the safe side check out your low voltage tapping to the existing servo, with a voltmeter a cheap digital one, and make sure this does not exceed 6 volts. This of course would have been so much easier to fit the servo before the decking. I am sending you an inspirational photo as this is my method of solving a similar problem when not wanting to run a wire linkage across my rear decking. Regards, Gary.

Hi Richard
The main battery is fine and only connects to the Viper ESC which provides a reduced voltage to the RX and Servo. I use Mtronic and your selection is fine. I believe it should give a BEC of 5v but the specs only give the BEC current level so to be sure I would check the actual output with a meter. The model is small and providing your linkages are free running with no binding I doubt if you would have any problem. Yachts use their rudders far more often than your tug. I can see that space is at a premium but if all the space at the rear is available You may be able to fit a standard size servo, possibly mounted flat. Sorry without measurements its difficult to give more detail. If it was my model I think I would go with the small servo and keep an eye on it to see it was not overheating. If there is a problem it is not a dear item to replace and you have good access. Hope this helps. Dave

Thank you Dave,
l might have a problem, the battery pack is a 6 cell 3700 7.2 v 3700mAh, have attached some photos below. I am using a Viper Marine 25 speed control and the receiver is a two channel Futaba R202GF. I only know the basics of RC, so that’s my stumbling block. Space in my model is very limited so l do need a relatively small rudder servo. Would you mind taking a look at my gear, do you think l have still have a burn out of l use this servo, would you know of any alternative to over come the voltage problem?
Many thanks for your kind help,
Richard

Hi Richard7
A quick look at the specs
Specifications
Motor Type: Coreless
Bearing Type: None
Speed Sec/60° (4.8V/6.0V): 0.20 / 0.17
Torque kg.cm (4.8V/6.0V): 1.2 / 1.5
Size in Millimetres: 22.61 x 11.43 x 23.88
Weight grams: 9.36.
Should be OK on a small slow model. Beware of exceeding 6v for the supply as the one in my RG65 yacht melted - I was using a ubec set at 6v at the time and should have used the 5v setting. The battery was a 6.6v LiFe. Dave