Some good points made. Assume the prop tube is just resting in place. To remove I use pliers to grip the tube and a sharp twist will break the joint, then start again. I also pour into the hull a slightly diluted varnish and 'shake it all about'.
This one is bread and butter construction and even after preliminary checks, the water just poured in.
Works a treat now but it took time. The temptation was it was on Gumtree for just £12. I could not resist!
Roy
roycv is right - when people build static models, they may not use waterproof glue, and the won't waterproof interior spaces - which are no longer easily accessible when the model is completed. Also, the model likely won't have a layer of fiberglass on the outside - which, is pretty much a necessity. The good news is that the model you have doesn't have a lot of truly inaccessible spaces - other than the dead space up in the bow. And you should be able to seal off the exterior of that space.
The problem is that, if any water gets into the internal structure of the boat - the hull planking - the underside of the decks - the inside of the transom - it will swell and then shrink, and likely warp. Simply coating the outside of the hull with resin is generally insufficient, as it will crack along the seams of the wood. I've had this happen on one boat I tried VERY hard to waterproof.
You can probably get away with converting the model if:
1) you pickle the entire interior of the boat;
2) you run in an area where you are unlikely to get water on deck - and/or you seal the deck, the cockpit floor, and any other place water may splash;
3) you pack the prop shaft tube with heavy grease (I use the pink Mobil Synthetic grease from a tub - but axle grease or Lucas Sticky should also work - I am sure there are plenty of others). Heavy grease will cut dripping of water up the prop shaft tube to zero, even if you run the boat for hours, and it makes little difference to the load on the motor.
4) fiberglass the exterior - not an ABSOLUTE must, but close to it, in my experience.
Hi DWB, I have converted 2 decorative models to RC and sailing. They both leaked like sieves, glue joints are rarely watertight, often with an insufficient glue line. Mine were a bread and butter build and a plank on frame one with probably more glue joints than a chine hull.
Interested to know how you get on but do not assume anything!
Roy
@Ronald Thank you.
I have the plans, just missing the manual,
If you could send me photos from the instructional or even scan to a PDF, I'd appreciate it
Just curious, do you still have the instruction manual? I picked up model at a garage sale but the manual was missing. I'm currently using the Lobster Boat manual as a basis to get started.
And to answer questions re the association to actusl lobsterboats, the real ones are built on designs of the original Maine/Boothbay Lobsterboats, sometimes with s little more streamlining of the forward sheer.
I often take my 34.5"X12 Classic Cape Islander hulls and modify or shave down the NS style raised bow, to imitate the New England style boats.
Here are two different boats from the same hull, modified as mentioned.
Roy,
That is the name given it by Midwest Products.
I honestly didn't know why, so I did a little research. I found several similar answers (sorry, I have developed a deep mistrust of AI)
Here is what I learned!
"Lobster Yacht" Designation:
The term "lobster yacht" suggests that the boat is a luxury vessel, but it's built on the foundation of a traditional lobster boat hull.
Another answer:
The term "lobster yacht" for boats built on the hull of a traditional lobster boat, like those from Cranberry Isle, refers to their custom-built nature, utilizing the versatile lobster boat hull for luxury and recreational purposes.
Always been a dream to build one of these bad boys and a high water mark for Midwest imho. A tough one to find these days and we can they go for $250+. Great find DW!!!!
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This one is bread and butter construction and even after preliminary checks, the water just poured in.
Works a treat now but it took time. The temptation was it was on Gumtree for just £12. I could not resist!
Roy
The problem is that, if any water gets into the internal structure of the boat - the hull planking - the underside of the decks - the inside of the transom - it will swell and then shrink, and likely warp. Simply coating the outside of the hull with resin is generally insufficient, as it will crack along the seams of the wood. I've had this happen on one boat I tried VERY hard to waterproof.
You can probably get away with converting the model if:
1) you pickle the entire interior of the boat;
2) you run in an area where you are unlikely to get water on deck - and/or you seal the deck, the cockpit floor, and any other place water may splash;
3) you pack the prop shaft tube with heavy grease (I use the pink Mobil Synthetic grease from a tub - but axle grease or Lucas Sticky should also work - I am sure there are plenty of others). Heavy grease will cut dripping of water up the prop shaft tube to zero, even if you run the boat for hours, and it makes little difference to the load on the motor.
4) fiberglass the exterior - not an ABSOLUTE must, but close to it, in my experience.
Interested to know how you get on but do not assume anything!
Roy
Glad to be able to help you out with your project.
Ronald
I have the plans, just missing the manual,
If you could send me photos from the instructional or even scan to a PDF, I'd appreciate it
My email is munford@shaw.ca
If you need photos of anything, just send me a message.
Dave B
Thanks for the links!
These are very interesting reads.
I now know much more about these iconic boats.
Dave B
Bunker and Ellis 42
https://www.proptalk.com/classic-boat-bunker-and-ellis-cruisers
https://ellisboatcharters.com/charter-a-bunker-and-ellis-42-jericho/
https://www.unitedyacht.com/used-yachts-for-sale/1958-Bunker-and-Ellis-42-42-Aleria--9587674
I often take my 34.5"X12 Classic Cape Islander hulls and modify or shave down the NS style raised bow, to imitate the New England style boats.
Here are two different boats from the same hull, modified as mentioned.
That is the name given it by Midwest Products.
I honestly didn't know why, so I did a little research. I found several similar answers (sorry, I have developed a deep mistrust of AI)
Here is what I learned!
"Lobster Yacht" Designation:
The term "lobster yacht" suggests that the boat is a luxury vessel, but it's built on the foundation of a traditional lobster boat hull.
Another answer:
The term "lobster yacht" for boats built on the hull of a traditional lobster boat, like those from Cranberry Isle, refers to their custom-built nature, utilizing the versatile lobster boat hull for luxury and recreational purposes.
Whatcha can't learn hanging around this site! 😁
Dave B
Roy