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Model Boats Website Team
December 2017: 2 people November 2017: 13 people October 2017: 9 people September 2017: 15 people August 2017: 10 people July 2017: 16 people June 2017: 8 people May 2017: 8 people April 2017: 19 people
I went along, bought some bits, and had some interesting discussions with some to the attendees. Well worth a visit - plan to go next year. What would be useful is a list of what stands will be there, so one could ask them to bring bits you want, and pay and collect on the day.
Hi used to servise fire alarms all over UK (mainly) East Anglia, and have been in a few oer the years, but they got less and less. The ones that seem to survive, do shop sales and internet, prbabley the only way to survive.
Lazer cut or cc routered, one would assume that these would be more accurate, but it still depends on the person who drew the 'master'. I know from experience that lazer / cc routering are not always 'right'.
Yes, Marky used Harburn hobbies, when they were down the bottom of Leith Walk - I know they moved at some time to Elm Rowwhich is effectively the top of the Walk. Do you remember Argylle Models when they were on the High Street, just round the corner from PT's?
Hi marky No I don't remember "Central Wood Crafts", until I went to Saudi Arabia in 1978 mostly interested in Model Railways (still am). In Saudi took up flying (models that is) as a hobby - Day job was to keep a Lightning Simulator 'Flying' (proper aircraft the Lightning).
I agree - many of us use the internet, I do as my local shop is limited, and the I cannot always justify the travel to Leeds (good shop in Leeds) they do about 50% on line. Years ago in Edinburgh (30 years +), I used Marionville Models, they were at Marionville (funny thing that), then moved to near Turnhouse and apparently were just as good. That apparently closed, and the company was sold - not it is manly internet based. The internet is useful, but it is nice to touch and hold when one is buying - I try to buy from shops, if I can (not just for model boats). I can see the day when all specialised 'shops' will be internet based - that will be a Sad Day................
Does any one have experience of models with twin motors in the Fairey Huntsman and Swordsman? (Or any boat) Would like what size the model was - what motor(s) were used and prop sizes, and was there any 'mixing' of motor control with rudder control.
How many of you have purchase paper plans ? I don't have any experience of buying from a shop, but on line (e-bay etc), you buy the plans, they arrive in a nice envelope, but when you get them out they are folded, in what appears to be a random manor, that is bad enough, but now the world has gone technology mad, it would appear that a straight line is not possible without a computer. I thought hobbies like model boats, aircraft etc. Was supposed to be nice and relaxing, then you get a set of plans (which someone has taken the time to draw), with which we plan to build our next model but someone has not been carefull enough to take the time to fold 'nicely'. Sorry but it annoys me, part of my enjoyment is creating good plans to build from and I hope I can at least present them packaged in a way that looks professional. Sorry about the rant, just opened another envelope, and the sended could only get it worse by 'cunching' up the plans for the bin.
Hi Jarvo The prop shaft that you mention is the type I was looking at, Deans Marine was at Mobile MarineModels yesterday, unfortunately they did not have the 18" prop shaft or would have bought. Will look at changing angle though. Thanks
Boat is still pile of its parts. Moving motor to rear, I thought that would increase the shaft angle, though it will shorten the length of the shaft? The Sea Queen is I think 46", kit, overlander 5045, 6250 mAh 3S LiPo, Fusion hawk HV 60 esc (not sure but this might be better with 80 or 100), [expect power about 400W], prop 45 / 50 / 55 mm (not sure which to start with, might start with 45 mm). Been looking at a shaft from Deans models.
Maybe I just misunderstood the ad, but I was under the impression that Paddington recognised the names, and 'they' were 'returning' the presents. At the end they watch a family open the returned presents. I might have got it all wrong - then again...................👍
What grease does one use in prop shafts ? Years ago (30+), I used special silicon grease (could get it from work, when it date expired - no I never understood that, but it did mean that I had a ready supply of 'out of date').
Am in process of building a Sea Queen, but not with supplied motor, will be fitting a brushless. Based on the motor and the voltage it is likely to be about 400 watts output, which is about 5 times the supplied output. My concern is the supplied prop shaft which is 18" long and 4 mm dia. is there likely to be 'whip' in a shaft of that length ? Was considring a larger diameter, but that brings in the problem of obtaining propellors M4 and M5 are common. Or can one get prop shafts with centre bearings. What have other people done ? Or are my fears unfound, I remember the days when prop shafts were mild steel not stainless and bent easily.
Hi all Have purchased a Sea Queen kit, and after getting info from this site plan to fit a brushless motor and Lipo's. Have been advised to change coupling from supplied, for one that will take the power - comments please. Also is there likely to be problems with more power going through the long M4 prop shaft ? I would rathersolve problems now before boat is built, so any help would be useful.
I have no problems, currently as I have not built the model. Just working on the plans. My concern was that one has to have effectively a hole in the hull for the tiller arm to enter. Just not sure how I am going to do it yet. Was looking for advice, if someone else had built this sort of setup.
As Zdenek says, you can get a set of effectively any of the original Fairey boats form Charles Lawrence, there is a General Assembly drawing and a Hull Lines drawing. Some of the Hull Lines drawings have been prepared by Alan Burnett for modellers in the past. They look to me like they are scans of original drawings to myself. If people wonder why they are at 1 : 12 scale, simples the originals way back in the 1960's when some of them were drawn, in the days when we used 'real' measurements. They are 1 inch = 1 foot (2.54 mm = 304.8 mm)
A Fairey Huntress has a Rudder system where the Rudder, and the Rudder 'post' are outside the Hull, located on the transom. With the operating arm going into the hull. Has anyone had experience of this sort of set up on a model ? I know that the normal way round it is to fit a Rudder in the usually way, i.e. through a tube located through the keel.
This might sound a silly question, but what happens if the prop shaft angle is changed. The main reason that I want to do this is to shorten the actual length of the shaft. I note in most of the full size Fairey boats that the shafts are at a much steaper angle than most of the models - is there a reason for this ?
Hi there Do you have copies of the pictures, as I would like to include some of the features in a model that I am in the process of planning. A much modified Sea Queen (3/4 size) effectively a Sea Commander but with changes. Particularly like the Cockpit controls. Regards Andy
Have purchased a JoTiKa Sea Queen kit, and have considered changing the supplied motor for something that gives a bit of speed. Has anyone out there got any ideas that might help me - motor / prop size combination. Also has anyone had experience of this kit and got any comments on issues ! Thanks in advance