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Hi Paul. I had the same thought, but the balance point is just where the cables kink to the port before going through the second Baulkhead. Could you point me in the direction of the other thread regarding balance. i have read quite a lot about balance and seem to get different 'answers' to this.
Hello, another couple of months and a progtrress report is due. I have attached a photo of the electrics finished. All but the permanent engine mount, the current (sorry for the pun)one is adjustable I will make a more stable one in due course. next to finish the top sides, the windows, the windscreen and the mast. Richard
Hi olly49 having just looked up your motor, I bet it goes like stink!!👍 You have approx 2X the Kv i am starting with😭. I am new to electrickery so i am not too sure about the significance of the 6s?? i belive it is to do with discharge rate? Could you enlighten me as to the corrolation between 6s and motor RPM and most importantly speed. I understand the difference between parallel and series for battery coupling but I do not get the S rating. Thanks in advance for your help, Richard
Hi pmdevlin,Thank you for your reply. I have turned the 8mm shaft to 6mm and have sorted the shaft conections, I hope!! unfortunatly it is to late to take your advice and lessen the shaft angle. I will have a little wiggle room as I am using a 8mm shaft tube down from 10mm, I will do what i can to get the prop close to the hull. Thanks also for the avice on the prop size. Richard
Hi, another month on and things are still progressing. I have finished planking the deck and have started on the rubbing strake. I am using 3x5mm balsa for the strake and I will be staining it teak. I have bent the strip for the bow and stern, I soaked balsa in hot water for about half an hour. Whilst the strip was soaking i cut strips of masking tape and evanly spaced them around the bow and stern sections ready for the soggy balsa. Then working evenly side to side from the center point, I bent the strip and secured it in place using the pre-installed masking tape. Note work evenly from the center my first effort i worked from the center and concentrated on one side, when i went back to the otherside the strip snapped in the middle (the point of most stress) probably because the wood had Dryed and cooled by the time I went back to it. The strakes are currently relaxing to shape for a few days before I remove the tape.
see; a bit of digging in the depths of the mind you never know what you will remember. the motor i am using is an E-Power BL4020/08 522kv 60A Outrunner Brushless Motor. I will let you know how i get on
thank you Canabus, i have the motor already for the life of me i can not remember what model it is! i know it is an eflight with i think 524Kv. i got it because it has a lot of torque. i also have a selection of 2 blade X and S props from 35mm to 50mm. i will check and post the size tomorrow. Richard
here are some more photo's of the progress.i have finished the painting,and as you can see the decking is to be finished.. once the deck is completed and varnished i will make new windows. I have a few ideas for the windscreen (the visor for a face shield comes with a nice bend!
hi I have been off the air for a while so time for an update. i have sealed and strengthend the hull by using very light glass cloth and Ezy-cote resin. this was very easy to use and i think gave very good results praticularly as i have not done glassing before. the the boat has been painted now and i am just starting to plank the deck. to plank the deck i am using the permenant marker on the edge to give the impresstion of caulking. i am verying the time the marker is in contact with the wood so the mark very's a little on thickness i think this looks more realistic than an even line, on a test piece it looked good. i will add some photo's soon, i keep forgetting to take them🤔
Hi good news, I have just checked the area of damage around the shaft exit, on further investigation there is no delamination👍 i think I will re stick the ply sheet down then stregthen the area with modeling tissue and resin. i am fotunate that the wood strips that run from the bow to the stern (i think they give the model grip and straight line stability,help i do not know the correct term), give a natural line to patch upto.i will stengthen the interior with wood strips again resind in.
Hello I bought an old swordsman from a friend recently and have started to refurbish it This will be my first foray into refurbishing wood models so I think I will learn a lot! It was a gas-powered boat but this will change to electric. So far, I have sanded the paint back to the wood and have filled the bow section damage. I have found an area around the hole for the prop shaft that has delaminated and come away from the keel. My plan is I am going to use Zap ultra-thin penetrating CA to re laminate the ply sheet. then use cascamite glue to reseal all the joints around the hull. Would this be a good way to repair this damage or is there a better way? I will keep this thread up dated with new photos and progress reports over the coming weeks. Richard i am going to use Zap penit