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    Robert
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    Member No.#86
    Registered๐Ÿ“…26th Apr 2008
    Last Online๐Ÿ“…12th May 2019
    City๐Ÿ“Grosse Pointe, MI
    Country๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธUnited States
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    Posts๐Ÿ’ฌ110
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    Robert
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    Recent Posts
    ๐Ÿ“ King-Fisher changes made
    7 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Grandpa,
    I started with a direct drive Speed 500 on 6 cells (7.2V) and it didn't have the performance I was looking for. I later changed to the Speed 600 and 8 cells (9.6V) and it made a huge difference. I'm not convinced how effective the cooling coil is as the flow from the outlet is not as much as I anticipated however this could be a function of the poor design of inlet that I'm using. Bottom line is I don't think the cooling coil is necessary. I make up my own battery packs and for this one I use two x four cells, one on each side of the centerline.
    As I previously stated I was a school boy when I built my original and the hard chines nearly made me throw in the towel. As an impatient youth it appeared to take for ever to plane them to match the bulkheads hence my switch over to laminations of 1/4 x 1/8 on my remake.
    Have fun and keep up with the posts.
    Robert

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    ๐Ÿ“ King-Fisher changes made
    7 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hi Grandpa,
    If you go back through the build logs to 2009 you will find my build log for the Kingfisher. I first made one when I was a school boy many years ago and later came across the plans at my parents house and decided I would try and scratch build from the plans but with a few minor mods (dump the hard chine in favour of laminate strip). its a great little boat and is very stable in high speed turns. On mine I made the bench seat a drop in accessory and opened up the bulkhead to aford extra space for the motor connections. I'm now running a Speed 600 on eight cells and its got a nice turn of speed.


    builds/view/23/2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Aerokits Fast Patrol Launches
    8 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    โœง 9 Views ยท 1 Like
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    Probably not much help in the UK but I get all my custom lettering from

    http://callie-graphics.com/
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ 60 Inch fire crash tender
    12 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    โœง 12 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    On the attached link you will see what I mean about taking photos to see where the actual water level is.
    The jig does not have to be nay more than a block of wood with a pencil taped to the top. You just need to cut the block at the correct height or adjust the shims holding the boat to match your pencil height.



    http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3422146
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ 60 Inch fire crash tender
    12 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Forget what any plans show, you need the waterline to look right for your particular set up. I would get the hull fully primed, install your radio and batteries and take it for some trials on the water to make sure you have the weight distribution correct. Along the length of the hull I apply several vertical strips of blue painters tape marked with horizontal lines at about 1/4" increments. Then when I'm happy with the weight distribution, take several photos of the hull so that you can see the water level relative to the marks on your tape. Back at base working from your photos, flip the hull upside down and shim it so that the actual water line is horizontal. When you have decided how much of the waterline you wish to see when the model is floating (say 1/4" - 1/2") make a jig to hold a pencil horizontally at that height then trace around the model. I have done this on my last few builds with good sucess. The only thing I would add is when putting the tape mask for the paint line on the boat, you must use something use a high quality model makers tape like Taimiya or you will get bleed through.
    Robert

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ August 5th
    12 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    There are a few pics and video of my Sea Queen here and on RC Groups:


    http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=697090
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ August 5th
    12 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Thanks guys, it took some time but I think it was worth it and I'm very glad that I increased the length to 24" or the radio / motor hardware install would have been more difficult.
    Since the build I have removed the motor & gearbox and replaced with a straight running Speed 600. Although less efficient its still dangerously quick for a boat with such a narrow beam but now it does not sound like a food mixer at slow speed.
    A scratch build Sea Queen is quite a commitment and a lot of wood! I don't want to rain on your parade but I have a Jotika Sea Queen and it gets rarely used as its just too big and heavy to easily fit in my car. in preference I have been taking the Fast Patrol and my scratch build Norstar Kingfisher. Given the chance again I'd build a Sea Commander in preference to the Queen.
    Rob

    ๐Ÿ“ 2011 Fun Float - Pictures ?
    13 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Mallory,

    Thanks for posting.

    Robert

    ๐Ÿ“ 2011 Fun Float - Pictures ?
    13 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Has anyone posted pictures from this years Fireboat fun float?
    Would love to see them.

    Robert

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Aerokits 40" P.T. Boat restoration
    13 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    David,
    That black box with the red knob looks just like the controller we had for our 00 Hornby trains!

    ๐Ÿ“ 34" Fireboat, mast & superstructure
    14 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    โœง 1 View ยท 0 Likes
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    I beg to differ, the Aerokits Fireboat plan does have enough information to scratch build.



    http://modelfireboats.com/forum/thread.php?thread=3059
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    ๐Ÿ“ froggyt996 what Is In your Sea queen
    14 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    I agree with Peter, Froggy that performance is quite outstanding. Please supply details of your set up:
    Motor, speed control, battery pack and prop.

    Its clear from the video that your motor has an excess of torque. Did you do anything to beef up the prop shaft or its bearings?

    I'd love to see what it can do on a calm day.

    Robert

    ๐Ÿ“ fireboat cof g
    14 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    I still think what you are looking at is nothing more than the supply voltage falling under load. When the load comes off, the voltage goes back up.

    For example, when your flying a plane and the low voltage cut out trips, you can restart the motor on a lower throttle setting (the lower current being drawn keeps the voltage above the cut off) to get you down safely.

    Connecting a wattmeter you see your supply voltage fall and recover in relation to the current being drawn.

    Robert

    ๐Ÿ“ Servo voltages
    14 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    I use a sealed 12V 7A gel cell in my Sea Queen, they are pretty cheap and easily available as it was what a lot of R/C aircraft people use to power the flight boxes and starter motors. Being a gell cell there is no maintenance and you can mount it on its side if necessary



    http://www.hobbico.com/fieldequip/hcap0800.html
    ๐Ÿ“ fireboat cof g
    14 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    With regard to your measurement and loss of volts, are you using a wattmeter to display V,A and W ?
    Have you considered that it my be associated with the C rating of the battery pack not being able to give up the current quickly enough to give yo the voltage?

    I place my wattmeter between the battery and the ESC and its quite an eye opener to see how the supply voltage drops under load.

    ๐Ÿ“ Southport Aerokits Meet!!
    14 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    โœง 2 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    I would have really liked to have been there. Thanks for the sharing the video it looks like it was a great day out.

    Robert

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Aerokits Sea Commander
    14 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    No disrespect to the other boats but the dark blue Sea Commander is superb. Very pleased to see the access door cut out for the bridge. I had thought about doing something like that with my Sea Queen but was too timid to try.
    Robert

    ๐Ÿ“ How to determine bulkheads from 2 views
    14 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Step 8
    Offset lines either side of the bulkhead centerlines as per your measured distance.

    Step 9
    On the side elevation project a line from the gunwale to the bulkhead view.

    Step 10
    Draw lines from intersect to intersect to produce the bulkhead shape.

    Step 11 - 12
    Repeat for the other bulkheads.
    If all is well you should be able to draw a smooth curve through the chine points.
    Add notches as per your selected chine, gunwale and keel.

    Step 13
    If you are doing this on CAD it saves time to copy and rotate a plan view below your bulkhead view. That way you can just project lines up rather than measuring.



    Robert

    ๐Ÿ“ How to determine bulkheads from 2 views
    14 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    In response to the comment that "my plans only have a side and plan elevation, where are the bulkheads?"

    There are many way of acheiving this and the following method works for flat sided skins as used In the majority of the Aerokits plans.

    This method works for both hand drawn and CAD.

    All of the drawings used In this example were drawn by myself for my next build project.


    Step 1
    You have the two views, side and plan elevation.

    Step 2
    Draw a vertical centerline for the bulkheads

    Step 3
    Project a line from the bottom of the first bulkhead to your bulkhead centerline.

    Step 4
    On the plan view measure from the keel centerline to the Intersect of the chine.

    Step 5
    Offset lines either side of the bulkhead centerlines as per your measured distance.

    Step 6
    Project a line from the B1 gunwale Intersect to the bulkhead view.

    Step 7
    On the plan view measure from keel centerline to the Intersect of the bulkhead

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Nor Star 'Wave Princess'
    14 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Nice job, whats the amp rating of your speed control?

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Nor Star 'Wave Rider'
    14 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    That looks pretty good!
    I made a clone of the Norstar Kingfisher.
    Can you share details of the running gear - Motor spec, ESC (make and current, size and type of prop.
    Thank you.
    Rob

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Boat stand, ESC and Servo
    14 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    You could be cutting it fine with only 30A.
    What prop type, size and voltage are you tinking of?
    My direct drive Speed 500 pulls 30+A with a 30mm two blade X prop on 12V.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Aerokits boat? with Merco 61 resto project
    14 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    What is the length ?

    ๐Ÿ“ Restoration Help!
    15 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    For fittings checkout



    http://www.modelslipway.com/
    ๐Ÿ“ Fireboat Side Windows.
    15 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    DB,

    Thanks for the pics and comments.
    Are the pictures reversed? Pic 1 seems to show the full depth of the rear well. On pic 2 its seems that the rear well height is the same as the bottom of the cabin side.

    I will plan my cuts and try to do it one piece but thats going to require some pretty exact cutting so as not to get any vertical gaps between the bulkhead and cabin side.

    ๐Ÿ“ Fireboat Side Windows.
    15 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Better pic

    ๐Ÿ“ Fireboat Side Windows.
    15 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    I'm trying to work out the construction of the original Fireboat. My question relates to the lower rear deck behind the tow hook. It would appear the side walls to the rear well "butt" up against the underside of the side window?
    Would It not make more sence to locally extend the window frames down In this area.
    My sketch Illustrates my point, should this be one or two pieces.
    PS - Bulkhead notches are not shown at this time,

    Robert

    ๐Ÿ“ plans
    15 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    It would be very difficult to redraw a single part such as a bulkhead from a set of plans and expect it to be a dimensionally exact replacement.
    Most plans are old and have suffered from paper stretch, print and scan distorsion. The best thing really is to re-do the whole plans, that way you will be able to verify the smooth transition / curves from one bulkhead to the next. That way you won't suffer any unexpected bumps / dips. Here is a copy of my work in progress. I'm still working on the forward cabin. This, not the bulkheads is the tricky bit as the front window frames are curved top and bottom.
    Once I'm happy with the overall shape I will disect it and construct the details. At the moment my model is drawn in mm for the 34" version. I will save it before I add the section thickness'es so that it can be scaled up or down.
    A big concern is that I still don't have a quote for the fittings. I have contacted a name suggested to me but still await to hear the price.
    Rob

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Aerokits Fast Patrol Launches
    15 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Kalamunda,
    I would first suspect that your water leak is due to a lack of grease on the rudder tube or just too much clearance between the shaft and tube. I'm using a Graupner rudder assy and I don't get any leaks even at the crazy speeds.
    Rob

    ๐Ÿ“ plans
    15 years ago by ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Robert ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Chiffs,

    The original kit plans shows a side elevation and plan view. By relating the two views and the position of the chine (not always clear) will give you enough information to draw the bulkheads.
    At present I'm converting the original plans into Autocad with a view to make my own. The task is not difficult, what is, is finding the time.....


    Robert



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