Hi Martin,
I think I answered your original post on another Boat blog site!

Ron.

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Hi Rolfman,

This one is for you.....I wouldn't fit a 6 cell Li-Po to run your 47 inch fireboat!..It would be uncontrollable almost, even if you throttled back. That relates to an output speed in excess of 11,000 rpm at the prop. Safer to try a 5 cell (9,250rpm) or even a 4 cell (7,400) initially. Also see my message to Shaun. I use a G60 in mine with 4 cells which is ample, the extra battery pack in Shauns will double the running time. I only use 1 cell. I use a 50mm two blade Hydro Graupner prop (From Gliders UK), it could handle a bigger one but everything starts to get a bit warm!!

Cheers......Ron.

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Hi Shaun,
This design of hull forces the craft higher and higher the faster it goes. When it is high on the plane and almost hanging on the last few inches of propshaft it can fall off the plane either way, usually to the right (Starboard) side because of engine torque. The full size boats were fitted with 2 or 3 engines to help counteract this.

The British Powerboat Company, who originally designed the hull that Vospers copied back in the 1930s/40s also noticed this which led to double skinning the hull with 1 inch thick mahogany for extra strength against pounding and falling on the waves. Lowering the drive angle of the propellor shafts and adding more weight from the C of G back to near the stern.

We build this 3 screwed designed hull with one mainshaft usually so do not have the benefit of shaft rotation to stabilise the boat at speed.
It was in the 1960's that Fairey engineers had the same problems (Swordsman,Huntsman etc) They came up with large transom mounted powered Trim Tabs. Their boats had similar problems and only one shaft in the main.

I suggest you try fitting 2 x 2 inch wide by 1 inch deep trim tabs at the very bottom of your transom midway between the keel and the chine as well as move your battery packs forward a bit initially. Try some fast tests with this, you only need 2 to 4 degrees of down on the tabs initially. Add removeable weights near the CG as needed, a bit at a time but don't stop the bow lifting up onto the plane.

Have fun, best of luck.

Ron Rees

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This was another own build with idea based on a 1960's Straight Runner called Beachcomber. My rebuild and plans were upgraded to modern materials like Depron Foam for the hull, Lite ply for the cabin, Brushless power and a traditional planked deck. it turned out beautiful and quite a few plan copies have been sold. Full build article was published in July issue of Model Boats mag. (Motor: Black Turnigy 2830 b/l) (ESC: Sea Commander 30 Amp) (10/10)

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The full size yacht club and the model boat section at Fishers Green, near Waltham Abbey has a welcome all comers Open Day. The Sailing Barge society will be coming with their models, come and have a sail. (No i/c, sorry)
2 lovely lakes, sail out of the boot, tables, tea, BBQ and proper toilets on the day..Free.

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This is another article for MB magazine. The model plan had to fit across 2 pages (A3) Hence its length. This one is built using the old Keil Kraft Eezibilt methods of the late 1950's. Made using mainly Balsa wood and covered in nylon tights and dope. it is fully detailed mainly using odds and ends . The plexiglass gun turrets are made using 21mm Carp fishing 'Ball' floats. Masters in plastic were fitted to the model after mouldings were made for the Oerlikon 20mm and all the Lewis guns as well as shrapnel padding and most fittings.

2 sheets of highly detailed plans will be free in the Winter Special hopefully with a full photo and build write up.

It goes like a rocket. Great little model and all for under £25.00!. (Inc ESC, Motor and battery!) (Motor: Turnigy 2211 x 1400kv) (ESC: HK 10 Car For/Rev.) (10/10)

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Hi all,
Lithium-Ion and Li-Po batteries do not take kindly to being stored long term fully charged. When they are new they will do it but after 2 to 3 years of intermittant use, can start to swell a bit and that is where the dangers start.
When you give these cells the final run of the season and they show a charge in the the 3.3 to 3.5 (or so) volts per cell then they can be stored relatively safely. (This is called a holding or factory charge) Re start them with a balanced charge before you next use them. Do not constantly fast charge them as thi could induce swelling of the pack earlier.

The old Ammo box is a good idea, any strong metal box will do but store them where it does not get very hot or very cold and ideally not in the house.

Lipo cells are accepted as hand luggage by most airlines and a holding charge is recommended when flying, so remember to take a small 12v DC balance charger or 'Intelligent' charger with you to other countries, you will always be sure of a power supply, like a car battery even where the mains voltage is different.

Small black plug-in cell monitors are readily available from places like Component shop and are a good guide to cell condition. One is these is quite essential as we use these cells more and more.

Cheers, hope this helps.

Ron.

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It looks very much like a Riva Aquarama. There are several of these that have been imported from the far east. They are nearly all rigged for electric power. This could be an early one as it is much bigger than the two that I have.
The Riva s are high end sports boats made in italy for people with 800,000 quid to spare (and more) and go really well. Another clue is if the hull is fitted with a chine rail, Rivas did not have one!

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FGSC is the Fishers Green Sailing Club, which is a full sized sailing and yacht club based beside several large freshwater lakes near Waltham Abbey. There is a special Model section which has sole use of two lakes at the club.

The club is accessed via a road through part of the Lea Valley conservation area and parkland and is not open to the general public so our lakes are very secure and peaceful.

More information is available via our Facebook page including directions on how to get there. We are a fairly new Model Boat club and are welcoming newcomers who wish to join.

Please go to :-
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1736743009873311/
For more information or you can email our club representative at
ivorwarne@aol.com

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1736743009873311/

🔗

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Hi,
Your post came up on my computer and if you live within striking distance of Epping, Waltham Abbey, Loughton, Chigwell etc. We are open for new members at the Fishers Green Model Boat Section of Full size Fishers Green Sailing Club.

I will be updating the details under the Model Clubs heading on the left of the screen, when I work out how to download a Facebook file across!!, so if your interested give me half an hour or so and have a look.

Cheers......Ron Rees. (PS it is a lovely club. fabulous water and facilities....No committee and no politics!!)

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This is based on a Fairey Swordsman and is another of my own designs but made in Vac Formed Styrene for which the vac former was home-made as well. The model is designed specifically for youngsters and club members who want to race together. The boat only has 5 parts!! Top, bottom, rudder and servo cast assembly ( Polyester resin) and motor, prop shaft assembly also Polyester resin. A wooden frame that forms the seal and holds hull in shape. The whole top comes off. its scarey fast and very tough (2mm styrene) and was made for under £25. Hoping build article will also go into MB magazine sometime. (Motor: 2820 x 1100kv) (ESC: Turnigy w/p. 30 amp) (10/10)

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Another of my Foam hulled, own designs using an own design Azipod thruster with B/L motor submerged and running in water. Steering by sail winch servo via geared pulleys, can rotate unit 360 degrees. Hope to put build write up in MB mag. Wierd model that turns in its own length and is powerful enough to clear the weeds on the pond (and break ice!) (Motor: Own Azipod Drive) (10/10)

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I have a lot of experience with Glue Guns having taught Technology in schools for 30 years +. There are two main types of glue stick-Hot melt and Low melt (for safer use).
The hot glue will stick skin with often devastating results!!. I also build theatrical props and it is very useful for building all sorts of things and will stick most things well. ie wood, metal, plastics (which it can effect) glass, clothing, felt, straw, string, rubber and many many more, but they are all quick fixes and can come apart with constant use and vibration especially on shiny surfaces.
In models I tend to use the stuff to hold cables in place and tack things in position quickly to align them before finally gluing with Epoxy. Motors can be be held in place with Hot Glue and the advantages are it makes a good sound insulator and can be repositioned for a few minutes before it goes cool. Also it can be prised off again if you need to change the motor.

I would not not recommend it as a permanent fix on many model things and certainly not as a structural adhesive, fittings etc. will almost certainly fall off eventually. if you regard it as a third hand you'll find it a useful addition to your gluing arsenal.

Happy boating......Ron.

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Reduced size replica of Howes Basset Streamlinia from 1935. Fitted with a dummy boiler which produces water vapour, a rotating version of the original steam engine and built from Depron Foam. Plans availalable from Traplet and model was a two part article in Model Boats. Very pretty! (Motor: Turnigy 2820) (ESC: Turnigy) (9/10)

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Own Design of 1909 Bristol Tug, Semi scale. Build using Foam and nylon stockings. Featured in Model Boats Mag March and April 2017. PlanFeature. (Motor: Turnigy 2830.) (ESC: Alex Engel Sub Commander 30 amp) (10/10)

Hi All,

Note your comments on the Vapourising Steam generators. I have fitted the one by Colin Graham as advertised in most Model Boats issues recently. it can be clearly seen in my Streamlinia articles (Sept and Oct issues Model Boats) and is a fantastic product, works instantly and reliably. Only 200ml of cold tap water so there is no trace of oily fall-out on your model.
The 3D printed casing, with its sloping top, I had a small input with this design and it does make a difference, channeling a good amount of 'steam' up wards also being a one-piece unit there is no risk of seams or joints coming apart, because there aren't any!, a real bargain at about£50 all up. it also features in a forthcoming model tug build article (Rhonnda..in Model Boats early in 2017, I hope)

Cheers..........Ron Rees.

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Hi Guys,

Not been very well and had a couple of weeks away in Cornwall to recover. I willcontact David W during the next few days.

Hi All, stumbled on this site, probably pressed the wrong key in Google!. Been a boat modeller forever but always learning something new. it's a great read and an interesting site so hope I'll get round to chatting to loads of you in time, for the moment just seeing how it all works

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