@MartyV
Hi Marty, what you said is both impressive and fascinating.
For us Europeans, it’s hard to imagine dangerous animals lurking in a lake or pond, simply because we don't have them here.
The thought of my model boat sailing where there are alligators or other dangerous creatures is astonishing—yet for you, it’s just normal.
I’d be curious to know how you handle situations like that; obviously, you can't just swim out to retrieve a disabled model, but I imagine even using a small inflatable raft wouldn't be safe.

@roycv Yes, we have no choice. We sail our boats in the many ponds in Florida and every pond has its gator or two.
Marty

@chugalone100
This is a truly interesting report, thank you so much for sharing.

A simple and ingenious system, although I'm still trying to understand how it worked in detail.

The main docking system I had envisioned had no electronics, only mechanical, because it would lock almost all types of sides. Logically, it wasn't reversible, so the ship would remain attached to the one being saved. This was dangerous in some cases.

The secondary system, on the other hand, was electronic because it was multifunctional (suitable and flexible for any situation). Essentially, it involved placing a mechanical arm from a bulldozer on the deck (of the kind already available on the market for dynamic modeling on wheels or tracks, but using only the mobile turret).

A third system used permanent magnets, but it would have been necessary to first apply small metal plates to the ship models to be protected, with obvious limitations.

P.S. I don't want to mislead or be misunderstood. The support vessel I was referring to had extensive equipment because towing was only one of its tasks (video recording, releasing floating equipment, firefighting, etc.), not its sole function. However, it would have been very expensive.

Looks a great idea. The thing to remember when towing a line that the pull end needs to be well ahead of the rudder other wise the steering does not work.
Roy

My contribution to the discussion — "Rescue Equipment".

My input under this topic goes back to 1997, when I built my very first scratch-built R/C model.
At the time, I had the very first issue of the U.S. Boat & Ship Modeler magazine, Summer 1987 — the Premiere Issue.

Right in the middle of the magazine was a pull-out set of full-size plans for an 85' Harbor Tug. I'm sure many of you here will recognize it, and I wouldn't be surprised if quite a few of you built this model during your R/C modeling days.

That tug became my first scratch-built model, and I still remember how much I learned building it from those plans.
But there was one particular part of the article that caught my attention then — and seems especially appropriate to the Rescue Equipment discussion we're having now.

The article featured a towing and retrieval rig specifically intended for rescuing disabled boats.
The system was quite clever.
A hook was attached to a length of square brass tubing, with a towing line attached to the hook.
The other end of the line was connected to the tug's towing bitt. The hook assembly was then fitted onto a horizontal boom.

That horizontal boom was mounted to a spring-loaded vertical boom. When the tug approached a disabled boat and caught the tow, the forward movement of the tug caused the horizontal boom to swing toward the stern.
The hook would then slide off the end of the boom, pulling out several feet of towing cable.

The idea was that the tug didn't have to maneuver alongside the disabled boat or have someone physically connect the towline. The rescue hook did the job.

What I particularly like about this old design is how simple it was. No electronics, no complicated mechanism — just a combination of gravity, a spring, a pivoting boom, and a retrieval hook.

The magazine even showed the actual working arrangement and construction details, including the spring-loaded vertical tube and the removable hook assembly.
Looking back at it nearly 30 years later, I realize that this was more than just an interesting modeling feature. It was a genuine piece of rescue equipment reproduced in miniature.

And for anyone building a working R/C tug, I think something like this could still be a very interesting feature to incorporate today.

1997 — my first scratch build, and one of the first times I realized that a model tug could actually perform some of the same jobs as the real thing. 😊

@DJW
You're right, David, dynamic modeling is practiced in bodies of water ranging from bathtubs (for technical tests only) to very large lakes (the more daring even try in the sea or ocean), and the risks vary. Consequently, the countermeasures to be adopted vary.
I envy many of you who can enjoy beautiful, well-maintained lakes with an organized club, yet many of us are driven by the desire to test our model ships over long distances.
It's a stimulating challenge (and precisely for this reason many enjoy it despite the high risk) because it puts the battery life and other purely dynamic capabilities of the model ship to the test. I don't include radio range among these capabilities because, from what I know, it exceeds visual range, and I believe that to have fun, you need to at least be able to see your model (perhaps with binoculars), hahahahaha.
It's also worth considering that on a very large lake, sailing far from the shore usually increases the depth, so you have to take into account that if the model sinks, it will be impossible, or nearly impossible, to recover.
Those who try to push the model at long distances, I believe, are mostly those who test sailboats (or both sailboat and motor-powered models) because they have greater autonomy (if there's wind, they obviously don't use the electric motor, or use it very little). But also because once the right speed is achieved and the ship is sailing away, it's a shame to interrupt this little magic with a tack. Meanwhile, the ship continues to drift away.

In any case, I reiterate that you've touched on a very interesting topic, one that's closest to the hearts of dynamic RC naval modelers.

@AlessandroSPQR Wow... That's quite a list of capabilities..! I think we now have a full range of rescue options from a piece of rope with a plastic bottle tied to the end, to this purpose built salvage vessel. I can see on a larger lake any offshore breeze could turn a minor breakdown into a total loss.

... this message follows the previous one; please read the previous one (number 23) first to fully grasp the meaning...


Possible rescue scenarios:


1. The model has malfunctioned but is still afloat; it remains in the middle of the pond, neither drifting away nor moving, but staying stationary.

1.A. The model has been pre-fitted with iron plates on its gunwale—two per side, spaced to match the lateral arms of the N.A.M.—specifically to facilitate potential rescue.
As soon as it becomes apparent that the model is uncontrollable and stationary, the ends equipped with permanent magnets or electromagnets are attached to the N.A.M.'s lateral arms (which have been adjusted to the minimum width).
Once prepared in this way, the N.A.M. quickly heads toward the stationary model at medium speed, selecting the side offering the best visibility for the approach, and maneuvers to align the iron plates with the magnets so they attract and lock together.
Once the magnetic connection is established, the N.A.M. brings the model to shore using moderate speed and slow, gradual maneuvers.
1.B. The model has not been pre-fitted with iron plates on its gunwale.
As soon as it becomes apparent that the model is uncontrollable and stationary, non-releasing hooks are attached to the lateral arms on just one side of the N.A.M. (adjusted to the minimum width).
Once prepared in this way, the N.A.M. quickly heads toward the stationary model at medium speed, selecting the side offering the best visibility for the approach, and maneuvers to hook the projecting lateral arms onto the model's gunwale.
Once the mechanical connection is established, the N.A.M. brings the model to shore using moderate speed and slow, gradual maneuvers. If the hook-up operation using the side arms fails, an attempt will be made using the remote-controlled multifunction mechanical arm located on the side opposite the arms.
If this operation also fails, the NAM will nudge the model toward the shore using gentle impacts (ideally while equipped with an additional bow attachment).

2. Disabled model (still afloat) drifting in the middle of the pond toward a hazardous area or simply moving away from us, with no possibility or time to reach the opposite bank.
Proceed as described in the previous scenario, but approach at maximum speed. However, before attempting to hook the model, its course must be altered to steer it toward us; the hook-up attempts are carried out only after this has been done.

3. Disabled model that is no longer controllable; it remains stationary or adrift and appears to be taking on water and sinking or listing.
Unlike the previous interventions, buoyancy aids must be prepared. The displacement of the model to be rescued must be assessed.

The buoyancy aids consist of cylindrical plastic bodies filled with air or a lightweight, non-absorbent material. These bodies—approximately one-third the length of the NAM—come in various sizes (cylinder diameters), sometimes exceeding their own length, and can be attached to the NAM's hull using pre-installed quick-connect fittings. The cylinders are positioned so that, while underway, they sit about one centimeter above the water's surface; this ensures they do not slow down the NAM or interfere with its maneuverability. They can be mounted on both sides of the hull and used alongside the hook-up arms. For example, if the model to be recovered has a known displacement of 5 kg and the NAM hypothetically already possesses 4 cubic decimeters of buoyancy reserve, it will suffice to add cylinders providing just over one cubic decimeter of additional buoyancy.
If a range of cylinders is available—such as one-liter and two-liter options—the two-liter cylinder would be selected.
If the 5 kg displacement is merely estimated rather than known, a buoyancy reserve double the calculated amount should be prepared. In this case, 4 cubic decimeters (or four liters) would be used.

4. Moving model, still controllable via radio, emitting smoke.
Bring it back immediately; the NAM stands ready to intervene should the model suddenly become uncontrollable.

5. Moving model, still controllable via radio, emitting smoke and flames; fire is already visible.
Bring it back immediately; the NAM rapidly approaches the model and begins extinguishing the fire, following the model without physically latching onto it.

6. Stationary model, uncontrollable via radio, emitting only smoke.
The NAM reaches the model at maximum speed. It begins to frame the model with its navigation camera (featuring live transmission) to assess the extent of the damage; immediately thereafter—without delay—it pushes the model toward the shore, selecting the most suitable method for the situation (bow-to-bow contact, magnetic coupling, or mechanical coupling).

7. Moving model, uncontrollable via radio, emitting only smoke.
The NAM reaches ...the model at the highest possible speed. Begin by framing the model using only the navigation camera (with live feed) to assess the extent of the damage; immediately afterwards—without wasting time—attempt to hook the model or alter its course to bring it to shore.

8. Stationary model, uncontrollable via radio, emitting smoke and flames; fire in progress.
The NAM approaches the model at the highest possible speed. If the distance is short, attempt to push it to shore; the arms must be set to maximum extension if a hooking attempt is to be made.
If the distance is too great—meaning the return time would be excessive—begin spraying the model with the water jet in an attempt to extinguish the fire. At some point during the operation, an attempt will still be made to bring the model to shore using the method deemed most suitable at the time (bow-to-bow contact, magnetic coupling, or mechanical coupling).

9. Moving model, uncontrollable via radio, emitting smoke and flames; fire in progress.
As above; however, if the model is moving away (rather than circling), priority should be given to attempting to change its course or hook it, rather than immediately extinguishing the fire.

@DJW

Hi DJW, this is a very interesting topic.
A while back, I was thinking about designing a ship model specifically for these specific needs.

Since the specifications and tasks I'd outlined are very long, I'll put them at the end of this post so only those interested will read them.
In reality, the tasks were much more extensive.

However, the project is behind many others, and for now I've used and am using alternative systems.
Since the lakes where I take my models are very large, I can't rely on leeway.
In a small pond designed for modelers, sooner or later (if there's a bit of wind) the model will end up on a bank. It doesn't matter which bank; you can easily reach it on foot and it will always be in sight if the pond is very small.
For large bodies of water, however, the problem is that the wind could blow it offshore or to an unreachable bank.

For this reason, I use another model ship, which will push the other if it becomes immobile.
Without a docking and undocking system, this isn't very easy, especially if there's a lot of wind.
For this reason, I have a rowboat ready for recovery (as shown in the photo). If it's not winter, a recovery by swimming is possible.

==============================================
These were the characteristics of the N.A.M. (MODEL AUXILIARY SHIP):

General information

The project concerns a scale ship model, specifically conceived and designed to provide assistance to other sailing models; aids ranging from simple close-up shooting to recovery in the event of failure.

The project will have initial specifications, which can be changed if it is realized that they are difficult to implement as they were initially thought of.



SPECIFICATIONS

Ship type and scale

The model, without particular requirements of reproductive fidelity and attention to detail, will be a merchant ship (preferably not modern container ships) with a central or rear island. The famous "sea carts" are also good.

The scale will be adapted in relation to the length of the model which will be between 80 and 100 cm.
The model will have to fit (even diagonally) into the rear trunks of most sedan cars, without necessarily having to fold down the seats.


Proportions

The width of the model, measured on the maximum beam, must not exceed a quarter of the overall length.
If it is necessary to increase, during the design phase, the immersed volume, in order to compensate for the total weight which, with the various additions (tending to satisfy all the specifications) could increase, the height of the topsides and the width of the vessel will be adjusted, given that its length is limited.
For the limit of the height of the immersed part, freedom is left to the good aesthetic taste of the designer, while for the width it is believed that it should certainly not exceed the proportion of a quarter. However, for aesthetic reasons it is advisable to remain below 1/5.
Therefore, if the ship was 90 cm long overall, its width would be a maximum of 23 cm.



Type of propulsion, power and steering of the ship.

Central thruster consisting of a short-pitch, large-diameter propeller (three- or four-bladed), preferably made of metal, capable of strong thrust rather than speed, driven by an electric brush motor (12 to 24 volts). The drive axis must be parallel to the keel (not inclined).

One or two compensated rudders controlled by a servomechanism, with a large excursion angle (in any case greater than 150 degrees).

Two lateral thrusters made up of propellers (two-bladed or three-bladed) possibly made of metal, capable of developing a lot of speed, driven by independent brush (or brushless) electric motors.

The motors can all be operated in forward and reverse gear. Maneuvers can be carried out either with the rudder or with the side engines or with both.

The power supplies and radio controls are totally separate and independent.

The minimum autonomy of each propulsion system must be at least one hour in continuous navigation.

Rechargeable batteries of any type can be used (except lithium)

Possibility to change configurations and electronic connections easily.

At least one of the two propulsion and maneuvering systems (for example single engine/rudder) must have a low battery warning circuit (visual and, possibly, also acoustic) and automatic insertion of a reserve battery. The reserve battery must guarantee at least half an hour of continuous navigation.

It must have a righting thrust on the roll axis of up to no less than 40°. Minimum requirement, even better if it can straighten itself even at greater angles.

The model must have a navigation camera with live broadcast.

It must be unsinkable already with the volumes internal to the design shape, even without removable external additions.
This requirement can be waived, in the design phase, only if to achieve it other more important ones must be given up.

It must have a buoyancy reserve (amount in cubic decimeters to be established) to support by itself (without external additions) a ship, displacing half of the N.A.M., which is sinking and which has been firmly attached to the N.A.M. This requirement can be waived, in the design phase, only if to achieve it other more important ones must be given up.

Provision of hooks for additional floating cylindrical bodies on both sides.

The model must be able to return to a pre-established point following the GPS in case of lack of radio control signal. The latter is priority.
Specification achievable using ready-made equipment for drones, only possible and not mandatory given the high costs.
Evaluate anti-collision sensors to change the route automatically in the event of obstacles, when re-entry with GPS is active due to loss of radio signal.
Optional.


Displacement

From a maximum of 12 kg at full load, with intermediate configurations, up to a minimum of 5 kg.
Arrangement of the weights of the fixed equipment on board.
They must be placed in the first and last quarters of the vessel, imagining you see ...it lengthwise and divide it into four equal sections. The second and third quarters of the vessel—the central sections—will be left clear for any additional payloads.
This is to facilitate the model's longitudinal stability; indeed, any weight added in the central area will have far less impact on the overall trim.
Naturally, there must be perfect weight balance from a lateral perspective.


FIXED EQUIPMENT

Position lights: colored LEDs.
Red on the left side (visible only from the front, rear, and left side)
Green on the right side (visible only from the front, rear, and right side)
The sides that are not visible are because they are covered by the topside control island.

In low light or complete darkness, you can determine whether the model is sailing toward you (you will see the green light on the left and the red light on the right), whether it is sailing out to sea (you will see the green light on the right and the red light on the left), whether it is sailing to the left (you will see only the red light), or whether it is sailing to the right (you will see only the green light).

Lights for night or twilight navigation:
Medium and low-power LED floodlights to illuminate the ship (remotely activated)

Directional and powerful LED front headlights.
Directional and powerful LED rear headlights.
Directional and powerful LED left side headlights.
Directional and powerful LED right side headlights.
(All can be activated remotely separately).

Telemetry for battery voltage data, power consumption, and temperature if necessary.

Extendable lateral arms, two on each side, with interchangeable ends, magnets, electromagnets (remotely controlled), hooks (slide and spring for non-return attachment).

Video recording equipment for navigation (front, side, and rear shots) with video transmission, with power separate from propulsion and maneuvering.

Provision and platform with mounting points for additional payload:
One or more recording cameras with or without ginbal.
Multifunctional mechanical arm, remotely controlled.

Provision with mounting points for underwater filming.

Additional, removable, inverted C-shaped foam bow.



TASKS

Recovery of stationary damaged models.
Recovery of moving damaged models.

Extinguishing an active fire on a stationary model.
Extinguishing an active fire on a moving model.

Video recording (with stationary NAM, with moving NAM, stabilized and unstabilized)
Underwater video recording.

GPS tracking.

Placement of marker buoys and/or wind vanes and recovery.
Wind vanes.
Lighting.

Recovery of a damaged model still afloat but starting to sink.

Below is a detailed description of the tasks with possible example scenarios.


... the possible operational scenarios follow in the next message...

@DWBrinkman
Great imagination here.

@roycv Having the stricken vessel sinking when it is under tow, is not something I had considered!

I guess the advantage of “pushing” rather than “towing” the rescued boat back to shore is that a sinking boat would not anchor itself to the rescue boat.

Bob.

Ed and Roy,

That is what my club member with the Shelly Foss tug, towing a bear in an inner tube does .... He has just added a little fun to the process.
Dave B

Hi back in the day before digital anything and in the days of film cameras I used to tow a 35mm film cannister, bright yellow, go once around the marooned boat and tow her back in.

I remember doing it at Black Park which is a lot of water and a long tow, the towed boat almost sank, which would then have become an anchor. So, take care when towing, the unexpected can happen.
Roy

I really like Ed’s simple idea of towing a sealed plastic bottle behind a boat to wrap around a stranded boat to tow it home with.

This has been well thought-out and tested.

Making a “pusher frame” to bolt onto the flat nose of my punt-like Sprite Plus is another idea that I have been inspired to have a go at after seeing and reading so much about the pusher tugs that I have seen on here.

Bob.

A length of cord (3meters) attached to a boat with a plastic bottle on the other end. Do a couple of circles round the stranded boat and let the cord snag the prop and rudder. Then you can tow it home. I have used this method for over 50 years.
👍

Thanks to all who are posting..! Looks like a Springer Tug, plastic tube and pool noodle is the way to go. They do look like fun boats in their own right. Thanks again for the posts and pictures. 😀

@DWBrinkman
I know exactly what you mean!
There’s something very satisfying about taking an old, neglected model and giving it a second life.

Lately, I’ve been seeing more and more posts about model renovations.
It seems like, mysteriously, these old models somehow find their way into the hands of restorers!

😂 Here in Miami, I have no chance of finding an old model to revive.
Your “Island of Misfit Toys” sounds like quite a collection.
I’m looking forward to seeing what you bring back to life—and eventually, that full build! 👍

Another variation .....

Do you actually sail model boats with alligators in the water?
Roy

This club member uses his Shelly Foss, towing a bear in a tube. He encircles (lasso's?) the stranded boat, and tows it back.
Dave B

Here is a totally home made recovery "airboat" made from PVC tube and swim noodles.

@zooma
Yes, I once loved the fishing-rod idea and actually used one, but it wasn't as easy as I thought to snag the model, especially when it was far out.
I eventually ended up swimming out to get it back—something I definitely do NOT recommend! 😂 Especially down here in Miami, with so many gators coming around.
I do love Brinkman's idea, though, and I've already started building a Springer tug with the forks up front. Hopefully, that will make rescuing a stranded model a lot easier—and keep me out of the water! 😂

@DWBrinkman

Thanks Dave, I knew you had made something.

Enjoy the holiday weekend.

HIGH SEAS TUG-KNAPPING😮

This is what I came up with, as attachment to my cheap little Zipkits Springer tug.
Many others have built similar pvc pipe and swimming noodle attachments adapted to what ever tug or other boat they choose to use.
Dave B

PS I am also attaching a picture from a recent club event showing another members Proboat Habor Tug "ready to run" rescue boat (kidnapping my "Scrappy" tug) which is available at most hobby stores, it comes with the rescue arms.

Fishing Rod.

I bought a fishing set from ALDI when it was on clearance for £3.99.

This included the two piece rod with a decent looking metal reel (for the money) with a line and the usual accessories - all in a plastic carry case!

I have no use for the hooks as I am not a fisherman, and any time that I spend by the water, I prefer to drive a model power boat.

The reason for buying this modest fishing kit is that with some practice, I should be able to cast the line over a stranded boat, snag it, and reel it in.

I have yet to test this theory of even work-out the most suitable shape of “grab” to make and fit to the line, but at less than £4 I couldn’t resist buying it - just in case !

This “rescue” device (if I ever get it fully “sorted”) would only ever be used if I was desperate, stranded, and with nobody else on the water that could give me a push……..but it may prove to be handy little investment one day…..

Bob

@DJW Hi DJW, please see attached pics of my Springer Tug, which was sort of designed with 'rescues' in mind. Mine uses a geared 12v 550 motor spinning a 4 blade 50mm brass prop, the emphasis being on 'pushing' power rather than speed. Thankfully, I've not yet had to use it as a rescue boat, but the idea is to take it with me any time I sail on more open water than my backyard pond! It was a fun project to build, and runs really well in its own right, so definitely was worth the effort to make.
Another 'rescue' boat I intend to look at in the future is Glynn Guest's 'heavier weight' airboat featured in Model Boats Magazine ('Retriever' - Aug2023 edition - full article).
Hope this is useful - best regards,

Nick

@DJW
Not a problem, hang in there as I know DWBrinkman discussed this a bit ago.

Chugalong100 post 3 years ago how he was building a “Rescue” tug

Because I am not a member of this group the new website design will not allow me to show you the posts that are not current.

It is my choice to make a contribution.

@Ronald Hi Ronald, I did indeed do a search but didn't find much. Apologies if this is going over old ground.

@DJW

David
There have been several variations of “RescueBoats” covered on the website over the years.

Try doing a search first off, if you don’t see anything there that fits your needs, there will be others who will be reading this post, they will add their expertise too.