Final entry for the build.
Not the best day for trying her on the water with a wicked north easterly and some quite large wavelets but it had to be done.
She floated well with no leaks, very stable with a realistic scale speed, difficult turning her into the wind with the lack of power and small rudder, this would not be a problem in normal weather conditions.
Overall I was delighted and was pleased with the general reaction of fellow modellers.
Photo`s of her in the lake.
Best regards ChrisG

Sad day, I think the launch, now named Kingfisher is finished apart from the odd tweak in the future.
My overall view of the kit is that it is damn good value for money and anyone prepared to smarten up bits like the deck and cockpit will end up enjoying the build and have a lovely model either for display or on the water, I have that thrill awaiting me 🤞🤞
The last job was to finish the windscreen already described and today fixing mooring lines, ensign and sticking her name on the aft deck.
Now a much needed clear up in the workroom ready for the next project, hope those interested enjoyed the build and thanks for all of the kind words.
Best regards ChrisG

As it was a really unfriendly day weather wise I decided to crack the windscreen and design something that was in keeping with the Launch.
I used the clear perspex supplied and tried several materials for supports, wood, brass and finally extruded white plastic available for modellers.
I finally chose the white plastic and after modifying one of the lengths found it looked good. I shaped the perspex in line with one of the pictures of the launch on Google and glued it into the plastic. Success I think, after carefully glueing to the deck was very satisfied with the result.
Unless I have serious second thoughts now onward and upward to the finish.
Great day, regards ChrisG

Well the lid is on, well and truly glued so hopefully the limited access to the moving bits will not pose a problem.
It turned out a nice fit deck on hull sides with a minimum of sanding after which several coats of sanding sealer were applied and of course lots more sanding.
Filler applied where the exposed prop and hull meet and also around the rudder housing, all all of which was then rubbed down.
At around this point I got a promotion so thanks for that👍
The hull was then primed and undercoated and as I continue to have an issue with water based paints all paints were sample checked with each other before being applied in earnest to avoid incompatibility problems.
The only pale blue I could find that I liked was water based so after checks I painted the hull bottom with that, love the colour hate the paint. I intend to complete the hull sides with Sikkens dark blue of which I have a stock and hope I get the gloss and finish I expect from proper paint. Moaning over😠.
Next job is to design the windscreen as the one supplied looks to much like double glazed house windows, I am spoilt for choice after looking at various pictures online just have to get stuck in and have a go.
Nearly finished so hopefully more photo`s soon.
Regards ChrisG now CPO 1st class🤣🤣🤣

The hull of this model comprises of just four panels, two sides and two hull bottoms and of course no transom.
The two sides were relatively easy to fit and glue, they were then trimmed ready to take the hull bottoms.
After sanding an aperture for the prop shaft in both sides I glued and clamped the first bottom half to the keel and the side, this was quite straightforward. I then tidied and sanded the other bottom to fit, I glued it and positioned it and then realised there was really nothing to clamp it onto as all surfaces forward of half the boats length were very curved.
Having clamped the aft half of the second bottom I then resorted to the strongest industrial sticky tape I had and taped it up like an Egyptian mummy. It held for about 30 minutes and then sprang apart like something possessed. I tried again with more tape and after a similar time the same thing happened.
By this time I was becoming desperate apart from being covered in glue and bits of sticky tape. Out came the drill with a 3mm bit and I drilled two holes right through the hull and bolted the whole lot together until the glue dried.
When the whole job was glued and stable and after sanding the whole thing down out came the P38 and as well as making good any small imperfections I filled four 3mm holes two in each side of the hull.
I am sure that any good model boat builders our there will be cringing and for that I apologise.
Best regards ChrisG

Furniture made finished and ready to fit at a later date. Seat cushions ordered. I thought it time to order speed controller and receiver, the ESP no real problem but the price of receivers surprised me and I cant remember paying that much in the past. I decided to build a transferable rig as I have several models knocking about that rarely see the water and are fully set up.
I now have an ESP and receiver that I can easily move from the launch to Doris and back when needed, I am sure many of you so the same thing.
I have laid a veneer floor in the cockpit which will be varnished to give a better appearance than ply.
I offered up the port side panel to the frames last night and it seemed a good fit so decided to bight the bullet and glue it, I started with the first quarter of the boat from the bow and when that was fixed I glued the rest, I don`t think it sensible to try to do it in one go. There is a lot of overlap which will need careful trimming and sanding before glueing the hull bottom.
Later I trimmed the port side to the bow frame and then proceeded to fit the starboard side in the same way. I am quite pleased and am surprised at the size of the boat both length and beam are surprisingly large.
Now I have all of the bits and pieces that will be fitted below deck I am not far from fitting the actual deck.
Take care ChrisG

Thanks for the comments and I am pleased that you like the build I must admit I am enjoying building it.
I have spent ages on Google and Ebay looking at dolls house furniture and apart from finding a lovely lady who makes beautiful scale cushions I struggled on the chair front. I really wanted at least two well made cane type chairs as seen on many slipper launches but with the exception of the American maker I mentioned who looks to be making and selling what I wanted at over £25 per chair plus p&p I found nothing suitable. What I have made and now finished except for the varnishing was a bit boring but I think worth the effort and cost me zip.
I will post some more photos over the weekend.
Best regards ChrisG

I am stuck again, The 500 motor has been delivered and is fine, suitable battery ready to go and pleased that it will fit across the boat and just a little further forward than central so the heaviest bit of the mechanics will be in the correct place. Problems with the universal prop fitting as one of the brass inserts had a 2mm hole and I needed 3.2mm, stupid of me but I drilled it to 3.2mm and now everything wobbles and vibrates like a duck egg. I am now waiting for a replacement.
All of this excitement continues to prevents me from fitting the deck, so in an effort to keep from pruning and sowing flower seeds I have let it be known that it is essential for me to build the cockpit furniture. I wanted something really smart and the only cane type model furniture I could find was available from USA and priced above my budget, so I decided to have a go at making slatted hard wood seats which would be varnished and have scatter cushions strategically placed when finished. The furniture build turned out to be very labour intensive with several designs scrapped mainly due to problems with scale.
I have put a couple of photos on to show how the job is progressing.
Take care all ChrisG

Progress halted on fitting the motor and prop. shaft as I am awaiting the new 500 motor and as the weather continued to be brass monkeys I decided to make the elaborate boat stand, this also from HA Kits. I am quite impressed with it, the parts again laser cut were easy to release from the ply sheet and needed little or no tidying up. The cradle is made up of 8 pieces which needed painting, fixing together with nuts and bolts supplied and mounted onto a base board of your choice. It is fully adjustable and will look good supporting the model.

I then managed to get the deck sanded which showed some areas where there were slight gaps in the planking of about 0.5mm. No good reaching for the P38, what to use?
I had some Cascamite used on a much earlier build this powder mixed to a smooth paste is a excellent glue although I think not much used today, I decided to add some sanding dust to the mix and used the paste as a filler for the gaps. When it was set and sanded I had the result I wished for with all the gaps filled.
I commenced varnishing the deck today, starting with 1 part varnish to 10 parts thinner, I will work up to varnish within about 10 coats each a little thicker than the previous one. Laborious but I hope worth the effort.
Best regards ChrisG

I have decided that my build will have to be out of the sequence of the plan and instructions.
The deck will take a lot of time to make it smooth enough to take several coats of varnish and I need to get outside in the garage to do that and the weather in Notts although not as bad as other parts of the country is damn nasty.
I have started to glue the sections to the hull bottom which form the keel to which the bottom skin will be attached. This also indicates the positioning of the rudder and the very long 18" prop shaft. I spent a great deal of time deciding how best to make holes in the correct place on the hull bottom the angle of which is dictated by the rear keel and forward keel.
I made a 380mm drill with a 6mm bit by glueing a long shank drill bit into a length of brass tube. By following the path of entry indicated by the keels I was able to drill a pilot hole of 6mm and then with files, Dremmel and lots of cussing and swearing got the prop shaft and tube in the correct position. The rudder in the photo is not at this stage fitted but just there to check distance between it and the prop. I have some tidying up to do around the position of the prop tube but am not going to push my luck by doing to much more today. I would like to suggest that HA Kits consider cutting appropriate holes in the hull bottom for the shaft, it would make no difference to the kit whether intended for display or working model. Just a suggestion.