HMCS GLENSIDE

Started by Double Rum

9 updates 69 likes 16 comments
Double Rum Opening post

HMCS GLENSIDE

Hello everyone, I’m currently building 1/32nd model of the Canadian WW2 tug Glenside. The tug was built for the Canadian navy in the forties. Some of the Glen class tugs were sold to Foundation Maritime. I will be making this tug as per the Foundation colors where I have a model of the Foundation Franklin also. I will post pics as I progress in the build. The hull is from a fiberglass mold I made from a plug. The prop shaft is 1/4” stainless with brass tube and oilite bearings. The rudder is 1/16” brass plate with the rudder shaft silver soldered top and bottom.
In currently doing several jobs at once , planking the top deck with teak. Making port lights etc.
Liked by flaxbybuck and BarryS and
7 comments
  1. BarryS
    Warrant Officer
    She has some really nice lines to her. I will be watching with interest.
    Did you also make the propeller? I can see silver solder lines where
    the blades meet the hub. Nice job!
    Barry
    Liked by DonK and Scratchbuilder
  2. Double Rum
    Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class
    Hello Barry, I did manufacture the propeller. I cut the blade’s from 1/16” brass sheet and used a jig to produce the curve of the blades. I then silver soldered them to the hub while holding them in a jig. I checked the blade mounted in the atlas lathe. It came out pretty good. It’s a lot cheaper than buying a prop. I’m looking forward to seeing your next project.
    Liked by RNinMunich

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Towing Bitts/bollard

Working on the Towing Bitts and Bollards. Made of brass tube and plate. I made the caps from plastic to save on the brass round stock.
Liked by Ronald and Scratchbuilder and

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Capstan and Funnel

Made a little more progress today, made the capstan with a bronze insert on the top. I will probably paint it black other than the bronze top. Also started on the funnel made from brass sheet.
Liked by RNinMunich and BarryS and

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Wood decking/ Cabin Doors

Hello, a little more progress. I’m currently adding wood decking to the upper deck. I found a piece of teak I had for many years so I decided to use it for this project. The Doors are made of teak also. They are .750 inches wide, .033” thick. Soon I will make the door knobs.
Liked by Colin H and hermank and

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Bottom Paint, Decking, Grating.

Hello all, a little more progress today. Finished installing the wood decking, just need to sand and seal it. Got the bottom painted today and did some work on the grating at the stern of the tug. Will be painting the sides of the hull black in a day or so.
She will not look newly painted for long as I like to weather my ships.
Tomorrow will be making deck fittings and forward winch and ships wheel.
Liked by Albert90 and Len1 and
4 comments
  1. Scratchbuilder
    Vice Admiral
    Morning Double Rum.
    Looking good and I await the next installment especially the weathering section when you get to it as I am interested in individual modeler’s adaptations on this aspect. 👍
    Regards
    Bill
    Liked by RNinMunich

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Deck work

Today I made a wood ring to fit over the opening for the rudder access. It will be epoxied to the deck. The idea is to keep any water out of the hull that would go under the grating.
It’s a very simple job really. I turned it out on the lathe.
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Prop Shaft

A little info on the prop shaft. It’s 316 stainless. I recycled the shaft as it was a shift rod in an old mercury outboard. It’s 5/16” in diameter and 9 inches long. I turned a 10- 32 thread on the prop end and the other end is 3/16” diameter.
When building the models I try to make the prop shaft diameter to scale with the original ship if possible.The groove you see in the shaft is the location of clip ring in its previous life in the outboard motor.
Liked by dave976 and chugalone100 and
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TAIL SHAFT THRUST BEARING

Hello, a little more progress. Today i made the shaft thrust bearing. Basically made from nylon and brass with two number 6-32 tpi set screws.
The nylon was bored with a shoulder inside to be a press fit on the stern tube. The brass bearing will press again the nylon face when in reverse. I need now to make forward bearing surface arrangement for the opposite side of the brass bearing. When completed there will be maybe.001” to .002” clearance between the nylon bearing face and the forward bearing face. Together with a little Vaseline this should keep most of the water out when she is running. I used the same arrangement in the Foundation Franklin and only a few drops of water come in when she is running.
Liked by dave976 and flaxbybuck and

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Drive assembly/ motor mounts

Today I’m working on the motor mounts. I will drill holes in the mounts then epoxy studs in the holes. Then the motor will be secured with nuts. The motor is a 550 aristo craft Manuchi 550.
It should be ok with the 2.5” prop I think.
Liked by stevedownunder and Colin H and
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Drive assembly update

I decided to change the drive arrangement. Instead of the wooden blocks for the motor bed i decided to use aluminum angle plate. I made the bearing plate adjustable to bring the thrust bearing end play to a minimum. Now I need to make a nylon thrust washer for the forward end of the thrust bearing assembly.
I think it should operate pretty good.
Liked by Scratchbuilder and Colin H and

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