Hi Alessandro,
The Component Shop based in the Wales UK has a number of similar sail winches in stock. The one similar to mine with 4 turns - but has metal gears is only £14.99. They have others available with 1.5 to 6 turns on the drum.
Here is the link and when I just looked they are in stock! It is a very good shop for anything to do with models especially electrical items.
Let us know how you get on. Cheers Duncan.😊
Hi Alessandro,
The Component Shop based in the Wales UK has a number of similar sail winches in stock. The one similar to mine with 4 turns - but has metal gears is only £14.99. They have others available with 1.5 to 6 turns on the drum.
Here is the link and when I just looked they are in stock! It is a very good shop for anything to do with models especially electrical items.
Let us know how you get on. Cheers Duncan.😊
First few planks attached. Gosh a lot to go and then when finished start again with the second layer! Using Amati planking clamps and also Micromart screw clamps. The latter are expensive to buy in the UK but make the job easier. I'm steeping the planks in boiling water and then using my electric plank bender to form the shape. The Amati planking clamps take a bit of time to assemble so be aware if you are going to buy some! The spring clips help to keep the edges of planks together. I'm coating the inside of the planks completely with Aliphatic glue to waterproof them. Some internal parts of the planks will be impossible to get to later.😊
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First few planks attached. Gosh a lot to go and then when finished start again with the second layer! Using Amati planking clamps and also Micromart screw clamps. The latter are expensive to buy in the UK but make the job easier. I'm steeping the planks in boiling water and then using my electric plank bender to form the shape. The Amati planking clamps take a bit of time to assemble so be aware if you are going to buy some! The spring clips help to keep the edges of planks together. I'm coating the inside of the planks completely with Aliphatic glue to waterproof them. Some internal parts of the planks will be impossible to get to later.😊
Good start Duncan👍
As a 'Novice Planker' I'm following with interest.
Can't wait to see the second layer. Will it be diagonal?
What wood will be used?
Cheers, Doug😎
Only when qualified as Full Members Ross.
(By special arrangement with the Site Shop😁. TBA.)
Thus far we have as Full Plankers:-
Graham93, Robbob, Mturpin, Dave 976 and JBkiwi.
Further nominees will be gratefully received and considered.
Nominations please to FLEET. Care of RNinMunich, MBNavy Bavarian HQ, Isar Flotilla, Munich.
Both hull and deck Plankers will be considered.
FLEET, 😎
Hi Doug. No the planking will be in the same lateral plane. I will arrange to have an overlap on the joints on the first layer of planking. When I built the Amati Italian Roundabout (Riva Aquarama) the limewood planks for the first layer were 7 mm wide but the mahogany planks for the second layer were 8mm so you automatically got an overlap! Great idea!
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Hi Doug. No the planking will be in the same lateral plane. I will arrange to have an overlap on the joints on the first layer of planking. When I built the Amati Italian Roundabout (Riva Aquarama) the limewood planks for the first layer were 7 mm wide but the mahogany planks for the second layer were 8mm so you automatically got an overlap! Great idea!
Hello Duncan
As expected wonderful workmanship from you it is always a pleasure and interesting to note the changes in methods that you often use. I must admit putting the roof on before the sides has me head scratching but on reflection looks a good idea although brave.
I continue to look longingly at my build but whilst I am keeping the NHS busy I find it hard to get into the garage where I really need to be to continue.
Soon I hope regards to all ChrisG
Planking slowly coming along. Attaching each 7mm strip of limewood with Aliphatic glue. Before fitting I'm spreading the glue the entire length of the strip to waterproof it. I've decided to put strips of Pond Noodle under the flooring to stop any build up of water and also to provide buoyancy if required - hopefully not!! It also provides a suitable scratch free support for the hull when turned upside down as the deck is already complete. It is getting more tricky as I'm now encountering curves in two directions. I'm using a Model craft electric plank bending tool which certainly helps. Unfortunately it is rather time consuming and then I keep having recurring thoughts that I need to do it all again for the second layer! Hopefully with a flat surface to glue to it will be easier - wishful thinking! 😊 Happy Easter to everyone. Cheers D
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Planking slowly coming along. Attaching each 7mm strip of limewood with Aliphatic glue. Before fitting I'm spreading the glue the entire length of the strip to waterproof it. I've decided to put strips of Pond Noodle under the flooring to stop any build up of water and also to provide buoyancy if required - hopefully not!! It also provides a suitable scratch free support for the hull when turned upside down as the deck is already complete. It is getting more tricky as I'm now encountering curves in two directions. I'm using a Model craft electric plank bending tool which certainly helps. Unfortunately it is rather time consuming and then I keep having recurring thoughts that I need to do it all again for the second layer! Hopefully with a flat surface to glue to it will be easier - wishful thinking! 😊 Happy Easter to everyone. Cheers D
Certainly Duncan, it's as you say: the second planking (which only exists in the modeling sector) is usually always easier, because there is already a surface on which to attach the wooden strips.
Nearly there with the 1st layer of planking. Been a bit of a challenge especially around the stern. Once the remaining planks have been added I will shape bow and stern, fill between planks and then sand back before starting the second layer. Having planked from the deck towards the waterline I decided to because of the hull curvature the best way to complete the the planking was to then start from the keel and work towards the completed side planking. It seems to have worked out as a good method. Hope this might help future builders of this model. 😊
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Nearly there with the 1st layer of planking. Been a bit of a challenge especially around the stern. Once the remaining planks have been added I will shape bow and stern, fill between planks and then sand back before starting the second layer. Having planked from the deck towards the waterline I decided to because of the hull curvature the best way to complete the the planking was to then start from the keel and work towards the completed side planking. It seems to have worked out as a good method. Hope this might help future builders of this model. 😊
Hi Len, very interesting observation.
I would very much like to discuss this topic with you and the other modelers but if the discussion gets too long, as it is likely to happen, we could disturb Duncan's work.
For this reason I prefer to open a separate topic and in this topic continue to comment on the work of Duncan's Bruma.
Hi Duncan I understand you. It's annoying to interrupt work.
I don't have grandchildren, but many other reasons prevent me from continuing the model quickly.
Tonight, if I can, I'll paint the cannons.
There is another peculiarity in your work.
You've built the planking around the propeller shafts. I, however, prefer to complete the planking and then drill it.
The differences in model building techniques are always fascinating and I really enjoy looking at other methods.
Finally got some time to work on my model after working on other jobs that needed doing around the home and also a holiday down the Rhine river on a cruise. Weather was good today which enabled me to do the sanding outside and save the mess of dust everywhere in doors! Hopefully the hull is now smooth enough for the second layer of planking. Fingers crossed not too many more interruptions to the build program ! I used for the first time sanding sponges which seemed to work very well. I also did the sanding in a large box lid which kept most of the sanding residue in one place. Unfortunately when I first started sanding I forgot to put the yellow foam supports under the hull and as a consequence it has snapped the plastic tube which will carry the mainsheet off at deck level. It was originally designed to go through the cabin deck which also had the secondary purpose of holding the removable cabin in place. Hey Ho - one step forward and two back!!😐
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Finally got some time to work on my model after working on other jobs that needed doing around the home and also a holiday down the Rhine river on a cruise. Weather was good today which enabled me to do the sanding outside and save the mess of dust everywhere in doors! Hopefully the hull is now smooth enough for the second layer of planking. Fingers crossed not too many more interruptions to the build program ! I used for the first time sanding sponges which seemed to work very well. I also did the sanding in a large box lid which kept most of the sanding residue in one place. Unfortunately when I first started sanding I forgot to put the yellow foam supports under the hull and as a consequence it has snapped the plastic tube which will carry the mainsheet off at deck level. It was originally designed to go through the cabin deck which also had the secondary purpose of holding the removable cabin in place. Hey Ho - one step forward and two back!!😐
Finally managed to complete the double layer of planking in limewood on the Mantua Bruma which is a plank on frame hull. I then did some filling and sanding before applying two coats of sanding sealer. Having 'chewed over' all of discussions about fibre glassing the hull I 'chickened out' and instead just applied a coat of Z-epoxy 2 part finishing resin. Another sand down with 120 grade paper (as advised on the bottles) before applying a Rustins primer & undercoat. This has now shown up some imperfections so I plan to remove these with Holts Knifing putty which is designed to fill small scratches and paint chips. I need to fit the bulwarks but I'm not sure about how to cut a 2mm 'slot' along the limewood planks. The slot is from around 6" from the bow to about 6" from the stern. I've tried a steal ruler and modelling knife but it still seems to follow along the grain of the wood on these 6mm wide limewood strips. Any suggestions gratefully received.
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Finally managed to complete the double layer of planking in limewood on the Mantua Bruma which is a plank on frame hull. I then did some filling and sanding before applying two coats of sanding sealer. Having 'chewed over' all of discussions about fibre glassing the hull I 'chickened out' and instead just applied a coat of Z-epoxy 2 part finishing resin. Another sand down with 120 grade paper (as advised on the bottles) before applying a Rustins primer & undercoat. This has now shown up some imperfections so I plan to remove these with Holts Knifing putty which is designed to fill small scratches and paint chips. I need to fit the bulwarks but I'm not sure about how to cut a 2mm 'slot' along the limewood planks. The slot is from around 6" from the bow to about 6" from the stern. I've tried a steal ruler and modelling knife but it still seems to follow along the grain of the wood on these 6mm wide limewood strips. Any suggestions gratefully received.
When I was cutting through 3mm pine stock, I found a box cutter had a better grip for control. I would score it 3 to 5 times cutting in about .75mm per stroke
Hi Duncan, I cut the hull with a simple cutter.
They recommended electric cutters to do it but I didn't trust them, the work was too delicate.
To follow the line you want and not the grain you can use a steel ruler, or a mark (pencil, marker, tape, etc. etc.) the important thing is that the first grooves are light, then gradually you can sink and push more because the blade will not take other paths.
"Having 'chewed over' all of discussions about fiber glassing the hull I 'chickened out' and instead just applied a coat of Z-epoxy 2 part finishing resin."
Excellent decision.
Finally we had some warmer weather today so hopefully it didn't cost too much to heat up the back of the garage! I've painted the hull with epoxy resin, then applied an under coat and several coats of paint. I found that the matt paint showed up some blemishes so I have filled them again. Unfortunately the colour of the filler is showing through very slightly, so I will have to apply yet another coat of Humbrol Matt white!
I followed the build instructions to the letter but I personally don't think it is a good idea to plank the deck at such an early stage. This is because of the difficulty in applying the masking tape on the planked deck especially through the 2mm slots at the top of the hull planking (gunnel). Given my time again, I would leave the deck planking until after the hull has been painted. My only thought is the sheet of decking is very thin and whether the kit creators thought that the planking was required at the beginning of the build to give the structure more rigidity - who knows!
Hopefully we will get another mild day so that I can apply another coat of matt white.
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Painting the hull and advise on NOT following the instructions!
Finally we had some warmer weather today so hopefully it didn't cost too much to heat up the back of the garage! I've painted the hull with epoxy resin, then applied an under coat and several coats of paint. I found that the matt paint showed up some blemishes so I have filled them again. Unfortunately the colour of the filler is showing through very slightly, so I will have to apply yet another coat of Humbrol Matt white!
I followed the build instructions to the letter but I personally don't think it is a good idea to plank the deck at such an early stage. This is because of the difficulty in applying the masking tape on the planked deck especially through the 2mm slots at the top of the hull planking (gunnel). Given my time again, I would leave the deck planking until after the hull has been painted. My only thought is the sheet of decking is very thin and whether the kit creators thought that the planking was required at the beginning of the build to give the structure more rigidity - who knows!
Hopefully we will get another mild day so that I can apply another coat of matt white.
Hi Duncan re your Bruma build, I too queried planking the deck first, and I am not sure what to do. I did find more complete set of building instructions on-line about 14 pages if I remember correctly.
I think they also suggest the deck be planked first. I would tend to agree with your thoughts and get the access spaces sorted out first and then plank.
By the way if you have to have a flush hatch with the deck try and make the hatch edges line up with the plank edges as this takes your eye off them.
I have had a stop in my boat building for 5 months as I had 2 cataract operations which made previous glasses redundant. So when both eyes were done I had an eye test and now I only need single lens reading glasses.
As I had varifocal glasses before there is no distortion of vision now so I can rely on what I see.
Distant vision is excellent and OK for driving. Then my trip to Australia came up which is where I am now.
I am raring to go when I get back in early March but need to finish my Wild Duck yacht first. Then either Bruma or Trotamares or my Aeronaut Victoria.
Hi, re-reading this thread I note a remark about not having double planking on real ships. Well ships implies large vessels. But the wooden hulls of motor gun/ torpedo boats were first planked and then canvas was applied and then a second planking. Usually double diagonal planking.
It made a sturdy covering and survived the heavy vibrations of multiple high powered engines.
Roy
Hi Roy, You actually sent me a link to the detailed instructions and yes it says do the deck planking at this early stage. I've given the inside of the hull a coat of epoxy resin and where the planks would not be assessible I coated them with waterproof glue (Aliphatic) before attaching them to the hull. So hopefully it will be Ok!
I'm also waiting for a cataract operation but it is more complicated because I had a corneal graft when I was about 40. It now has no cells remaining so I will have to have another corneal graft and cataract operation at the same time. Ugh!
Enjoy the rest of your holiday in Australia and have a good trip back. I hope you decide to start the Bruma soon ! 😊Cheers
Hi Roy, You actually sent me a link to the detailed instructions and yes it says do the deck planking at this early stage. I've given the inside of the hull a coat of epoxy resin and where the planks would not be assessible I coated them with waterproof glue (Aliphatic) before attaching them to the hull. So hopefully it will be Ok!
I'm also waiting for a cataract operation but it is more complicated because I had a corneal graft when I was about 40. It now has no cells remaining so I will have to have another corneal graft and cataract operation at the same time. Ugh!
Enjoy the rest of your holiday in Australia and have a good trip back. I hope you decide to start the Bruma soon ! 😊Cheers
