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    Krick Police Launch
    by MouldBuilder πŸ‡­πŸ‡Ί ( Rear Admiral)
    πŸ“£










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    11 Posts 51 Comments 60 Photos 53 Likes
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    πŸ“ Conclusion and trial.
    5 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I am now satisfied that the Police Launch project is completed so far as the blog is concerned. I have completed the first run on the water and was very happy with the results. A little more weight is required to achieve a good waterline but cannot be done yet as the weather conditions during the trial were not that good. It was rather windy and the river water was being blown around a bit.
    I do have a little more work to do on the Launch before I can say it is totally finished. Now that I have sorted out how to capture the power of the Taranis, I will update the wiring to use all of the channels necessary for independent operation. The channels will be as follows:-
    ESC (motor), Rudder, Radar, Blue flashing light, Navigation lights, Water monitor and search light. Seven in all. I will post a short video of it fully wired later in the year.
    In conclusion I must say that Krick have supplied a very interesting model to build at a reasonable price. I have learnt a lot during the build as it is the first that I have done in thirty-five years even though I started the Pilot Boat later and finished earlier. This was due to the fact that I was living mainly in England but had moved the Police Launch to Hungary thinking I could finish during that holiday. Two years later I have finally completed the project, now that I am living here. The model is generally for beginners for which I can highly recommend. I really like the finished boat but regret that I only heard about sanding sealer long after the painting was completed. The long grain of the ply shows up on inspection. Some of the fittings supplied in the kit are rather poor but can be replaced easily such as the search light.
    Whilst splitting out all of the functions to separate channels, I will also tidy up the wiring, one of my common failings on these projects. If I draw up a wiring diagram first, I am sure I can improve this. As my next project uses 16 channels, I would end up with a birds nest if I do not improve.
    Included in this post are a few pictures of the trial along with a short video of the functions and trial. I will place the longer trial video in the media gallery.
    Thank you for your interest in this build. I will now place all of my energies into completing Dusseldorf, a different challenge altogether. I hope this does not take another two years as I am looking forward to tackling HMS Hood and completing my Submarine project.
    Peter.
    https://youtu.be/qoatwv51mCA
    https://youtu.be/9pkLoaPZXnA
    https://youtu.be/qoatwv51mCA
    πŸ”—
    https://youtu.be/9pkLoaPZXnA
    πŸ”—
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Conclusion and trial.
    2 days ago by dave976 ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi Peter
    Two channel control would be your best option for your HMS Hood, warships can be difficult to turn if you cannot reduce the revs on the inside props. My HMS Grenville would take forever without this set up, and you can program your Taranis to do all the hard work for you.
    Dave
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Conclusion and trial.
    2 days ago by Newby7 ( Vice Admiral)
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    Beginner boat or not Peter the boat looks great well done. Good luck on with your next build.
    Rick
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Conclusion and trial.
    4 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    The Hood is 1:200 scale. 53” long I think. It will be powered by four motors. I might set up two channels for left and right motors.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Conclusion and trial.
    4 days ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Great job Peter, certainly looks the part on the waterπŸ‘. Kit makes a very nice model, certainly doesn't look like a beginners model now ! Will be interested to see the upcoming 'extras' when installed.

    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Conclusion and trial.
    4 days ago by Scratchbuilder ( Captain)
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    Peter.
    Excellent project,with a superb result to be proud of.
    Well done.
    Looking forward to the next one.
    Regards Bill.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Conclusion and trial.
    4 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Great work Peter.
    Very nice indeed.
    I bet you cannot believe she finally is finished.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Conclusion and trial.
    4 days ago by dave976 ( Warrant Officer)
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    Nice clean lines and she sails well. Good to hear someone is using the expansion power of the Taranis, if you can understand how to program this radio, the opportunities are almost unlimited. The software is open source and whilst I still use mine I also have a Radiomaster that uses the same software and is compatible with almost all 2.4Ghz protocols. I look forward to seeing your radio set up and wiring in due course. What scale is your HMS Hood?
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    πŸ“ Final Fittings, Almost
    17 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I have now finished placing all of the remaining fittings except for the search light. The light that came with the kit is rather sad so I decided to buy a replacement that will work. I have now also found out how to work my Taranis transmitter a little better. I now understand just how important the mixer menu is. Nothing changes unless you programme the mixer. With this new found knowledge and just before the video of the completed item is done, I am going to rewire the boat slightly so that I can have all six functions working separately instead of two together as I have it now. This is possible now that I have replaced the receiver with an eight channel jobby.
    I am very happy with the results and have learned an awful lot whilst making it. There are a few things I could have done better, such as sanding sealer on the wood prior to painting.
    There will be a final conclusion update once I have the model electrics updated and a good weather day with low wind.
    Peter.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Final Fittings, Almost
    4 days ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter, missed your question sorry. I used car window tint on my Hartley cabin boat, but I applied that before fitting the screens. Might be too hard to do it later, as it requires a bit of force on a flat surface to expel any air bubbles.

    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Final Fittings, Almost
    12 days ago by Scratchbuilder ( Captain)
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    Hi
    Peter.
    Looking really good as your progress continues.
    Satisfying to see such a good build.
    Regards Bill.
    PS.
    Congratulations on your promotion.
    Only the one cruise ship in the bay as we speak.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Final Fittings, Almost
    17 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,

    Congratulations on your promotion Rear Admiral.
    Well deserved and now you have Police escort too.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Final Fittings, Almost
    17 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Peter,
    As long as you mask off what you don't want painted then i don't see why not.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Final Fittings, Almost
    17 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Thanks Jb. I am happy with the results.
    Can I smoke the windows now? Do you think it is possible?
    Peter.😊
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Final Fittings, Almost
    17 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Great work Peter,
    Will you be smoking the windows a little ?
    And i don't mean using the electrics to do it. LOL!!

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Final Fittings, Almost
    17 days ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter, you've done a beautiful job on the modelπŸ‘πŸ‘ looking forward to seeing it on the water. I wouldn't worry about small imperfections, - if you've seen a boat with no imperfections, it probably hasn't been used yet, ( some super yachts are pretty rough up close - and especially under all the flash stuff. )

    JB
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    πŸ“ Fittings
    27 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I have now taken stock of exactly where I am on this model as it has been a long break. I decided to make a list of `things to do` but very quickly, it was starting to grow and grow. I had to make the Police sign boards which I was aware of as I had lost the originals some time earlier. The front hatch was not made and most of the deck fittings were not completed.
    I bought some Balsa wood sheet to make the two boards. I cut them out with a sharp modelling knife but no matter how careful I was I could cut it easily along the grain but chipped it every time when cutting across the grain. Any ideas for the future to stop this would be greatly appreciated. I decided, after several attempts, to use the best two and fill the chips with a fine filler. After sanding these looked good.
    I painted them and then tried to `follow the instructions` on fitting them. They are foil letters and the instructions stated to tape across the tiop of the letters leaving them exactly placed as designed. The backing then had to be removed leaving the letters in place on the tape. I found that the letters were well too stuck on to the backing and they moved. I was left with placing all of the lettering by hand one at a time. I think it looks ok and if you think any are out of alignment, I will blame the photo.😁
    I made the hatch from a piece of waste ply and bent handles. The hinges were with the kit but I think they are too large. Too late now.
    I then fitted most of the deck fittings and completed painting and fitting the horns. I also touched up some of the white paint. The model looks quite nice I think.
    The next update will be the last on this model. I will wait for a calm day and place it in the river and make a short video.
    Peter.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Fittings
    25 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Pete,
    The paint is a Humbrol acrylic spray. I don’t usually use Humbrol as I find it difficult to get a good finish. Must use my air brush more but I am too lazy to clean it.😬
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Fittings
    25 days ago by Rookysailor ( Commodore)
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    Very nice paint job on the boards Peter, nice colour blue too, what paint did you use?

    Cheers, Pete😊
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Fittings
    26 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Looks really good Peter.
    I bet you are really looking forward to seeing her in the water after all your hard work.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Fittings
    26 days ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    That's looking excellent Peter, nice work. When cutting balsa across the grain, I find that a box cutter with the snap-off blades will work well. Use a steel rule and hold it down firmly on the balsa. You might find that it's best to nick the back edge of the cut first (cut straight down like a guillotine) by about 5 mm as this should stop it breaking out. With soft balsa (sounds like it might be what you have) you could try putting masking tape over where you want to cut, and marking your cut on that, then cutting through the tape.

    Main thing is a using knife which is razor sharp eg a new box cutter, and cut on a 45deg angle. If you cut with the blade at say 90 deg, the balsa will chip - (you're trying to scratch rather than cut). Medium balsa cuts the best, soft chips easily, and firm is harder to cut without splitting.

    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Fittings
    26 days ago by Newby7 ( Vice Admiral)
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    Well done Peter You said you had trouble with balsa. That's why I much prefer basswood as it for me is easier to work with. The build is coming nicely.
    Rick
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    πŸ“ Motor alignment
    28 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Finally, I have managed to get the new house nearly completed. I can now spend more time building, at last!! I have decided to complete the Police Launch first. I estimate about a week of work to complete.
    I decided some time ago that the solid drive connection I was using was not suitable for a permanent arrangement. Although alignment was good, there was a vibration when the motor ran at full speed (which I must say seems to be around 10 RPM (Revs per month)). The only issue that remained was that the Krick device I like to use is 5mm at one end, with a reducer sleeve to 4mm and 4mm at the other end with a reducer sleeve to 3.2mm at the other. The shaft is 4mm so that was good, the motor though is 2.3mm. I had to make another reducer to fit inside the one supplied. I knew I bought the machines for a reason.
    First, I found a piece of 3,2mm diameter brass tube and drilled a 2.3mm diameter hole up the centre. The original hole was only 2mm diameter. I then moved to my milling machine and slotted the new sleeve using a 1mm diameter end mill. Unfortunately all of the collets I purchased for the milling machine do not fit. They are R8 and are located with a slot down the length of the collet. The slots are too small and will require modifying. The chuck is the only item that fits so as it was such a small cutter cutting brass, I carried on.
    The assembly worked really well. I greased the prop shaft and reassembled. What a difference. In future I will set the alignment with a fixed unit and when fully fitted, will change to a Krick flexible joint.
    The next job will be to make two new boards to hold the POLICE signs.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Motor alignment
    28 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I am lucky Bill. I had nearly fifty years to learn what I know now. Model making is really different though so I have a lot more to learn. You just have to look at Mikes (mturpin013) work to see what can be done. I can make mould tools for N gauge locomotives and wagons amongst many other things but believe me, this is a different challenge all together.πŸ˜€
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Motor alignment
    28 days ago by Scratchbuilder ( Captain)
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    Peter.
    I have my lathe and use it well,but wish I had the lathe skills you have πŸ˜ƒ.
    Regards Bill.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Motor alignment
    28 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    So close now Peter.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ“ Adding glazing and fittings
    2 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    During the Christmas break I was able to continue with the Police Launch. I finally remembered to take the canopy glue with me to Hungary.
    I cut the glazing carefully with a pair of sharp scissors. All of the glazing came as a single sheet with both sides protected with a thin film. After cutting the pieces out, I shaped them to miss some of the protruding glue I had added for strength at strategic positions where the curved roof met the side walls. After peeling off one side of the film, glue was very carefully added to the wood, where possible, and to the window where not so possible. I found that the glue went tacky quite quickly so holding in place by hand was minimal, about one minute each piece. The results are ok. Once all of the pieces were fitted, I removed the inner protection.
    Next job was to complete the fitting of roof items. Just a quick silly question. What are the two slotted rails on the roof for? Are they for tying things down? I have now also fitted the ladder to the roof.
    When I return in May, I will complete this project and give it its fully built trial and a short video. I will also conclude this log at that time. The only things to do are to complete the wiring of the pump and radar motors, fit some of the deck fittings and add transfers.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Adding glazing and fittings
    2 years ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Martin's correct, - grab rails for when you're walking on deck. Looking good so far!
    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Adding glazing and fittings
    2 years ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Ref:- "Just a quick silly question. What are the two slotted rails on the roof for?"

    I think they are hand rails.

    I have just looked back on this build log as i have now just seen it.

    It is a very nice tidy neat looking boat.
    You have done an excellent job so far, keep it up.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ“ Electrics
    2 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I completed the main wiring looms during this break. I am using rather small enclosures as there is not a lot of room in the hull which has resulted in two being required. The main box holds a circuit board carrying all of the resistors for the lighting and a second circuit board with the flashing light module. The second box holds all of the connections to the RC switches which are on the outside. The connections for the pump and radar motor are also installed.
    I hope to complete this project during my Spring visit. All that needs doing is to add the glasing and finalise the electrical connections. There are a few more deck items to add but they are ready and only left off as I am sure I would knock them off. A final water test would then follow.
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    πŸ“ Fitting out.
    2 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    We have now arrived in Hungary for our Christmas break at our house. I have started to work towards completion, finally, of the Police Launch. During the Summer, I did complete the initial electrical connections for the radio, battery and motor and gave it a try on the river. It went well but I was a little disappointed with the speed. I will probably upgrade to a brushless motor at a later date.
    Today I fitted the railings, added two of the ladders and then started on the windows only to find that I had left the canopy glue in the UK. Never mind I will have to add a trip to the model shop in Budapest to our itinerary. What hardships I have to endure.😁😁. I have now connected all of the lighting on the superstructure to a nine pin connector.
    Tomorrow I plan to prepare the wiring and circuit board box which will reside in the hull. This will keep me busy for a while as I have a lot to fit into a small box.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Fitting out.
    4 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    An update Mike.
    I have now trialled the Police Launch and can now answer your concern.
    The water does not get forced up the tube when the pump is idle. The pump must stop this from happening. I am lucky I think.
    Peter.😊
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Fitting out.
    2 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Thanks Mike.
    I have not had it in the water since I fitted the pump. I will let you know in the spring.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Fitting out.
    2 years ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
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    A nice looking boat, I notice you have your fire monitor piped through a pump which gets its supply from a pick up behind the prop. Is water forced through the pump and finally to the monitor when the pump isn't powered up? Something you may only notice when the boats moving and not always obvious.

    boat
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    πŸ“ Fitting
    3 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Well, best laid plans and all that. Things have not gone too well.
    I managed to transport the boat in pieces to Hungary as planned. That is where the plans changed slightly. The plan was to have a trial on the river by the end of my holiday. I was rudely interupted by beautiful weather so I spent a lot of time in the river myself instead.
    I have started to assemble the superstructure and completed the radar, which turns rather realistically when under power. I have added coloured LED`s to the navigation lights. I have mostly completed the painting and laquering. I assembled the hand rails but still have to paint them.
    I started to look into the electrics but had to stop when I found that the pump I purchased was not suitable for purpose. I put the pump under test and it only appears to work if fully submerged. Not really useful for a boat. I will search for a replacement.πŸ€”
    Just a small note, I have now found that the superstructure has warped slightly during painting. I fitted it really closely before painting but now it has twisted slightly. Very disappointed but never mind.😀
    As I am now home until Christmas, there will be no further progress until then. I may not be able to trial until April as our river is often frozen at Christmas.
    Well I could not help myself and bought another kit. This next one is different and should be easier. it will be a Pilots boat. At the same time, I will now continue with the PTB refurbishment.πŸ€“

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    πŸ’¬ Fitting
    3 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    "But, Mousie, thou art no thy-lane,
    In proving foresight may be vain;
    The best-laid schemes o' mice an' men
    Gang aft agley,
    An' lea'e us nought but grief an' pain,
    For promis'd joy!"

    Poor little homeless mouse 😭 squeak squeak!

    Your pump sounds like one intended for a small fountain.
    Look for one which is specced as 'Self priming'.
    Car windscreen washer pumps from the scrap yard do the job, most need 12V though. Graupner & Co do some small 6V jobs.

    Next time plasti-card for the superstructure!?
    Cheers, Doug 😎
    Oh, and for the rest of us Sassenachs amongst us, the modern English version-
    "But Mouse, you are not alone,
    In proving foresight may be vain:
    The best laid schemes of mice and men
    Go often askew,
    And leave us nothing but grief and pain,
    For promised joy!"

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    πŸ“ Painting.
    3 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Well another few weeks have passed and the build is progressing well even though work has taken up most of my time recently.
    I have started painting now and as expected, finding it difficult. Due to the time limit I have, only five days left, I have had to cut a few corners. Sorry Doug, I will try harder next time.
    I have decided to finish all of the parts before Friday and take them to Hungary with me to assemble. Not quite what I had planned, but I think there will be less or no breakage.
    I have added colour LED`s to the navigation lights also. I also have switches operated by the Radio.
    The Radar turns using an additional geared 6v motor and the water cannon will be working also...I hope.
    I include a few pictures to bring the build up to date. Trials should be in two weeks so long as I do not leave something important at home.
    I will add the final build pictures and video the event if I can finish in time.πŸ˜‰

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    πŸ’¬ Painting.
    3 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Evenin' Neville,
    For a first attempt spraying that's damn goodπŸ‘
    I prefer to use a 0.8mm nozzle for 'big' areas such as hulls.
    0.5 for the 'fine' stuff, e.. cabins and fittings, which I still need to practice! Will need it when I come to the cammo pattern for PT109.
    Practice makes perfect they say! Basic rules (THEY also say😁) are-
    Paint consistency should remind you of milk (no cream!),
    Don't get to close,
    Don't move too slow!
    Keep up the good workπŸ‘ Cheers, Doug 😎

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    πŸ’¬ Painting.
    3 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Doug.
    Thanks. You are right about the first aid. Clumsy. Good that my wife is a nurse me thinks.πŸ˜†
    No. This is my first attempt at spraying anything like this. That is why I ask a lot of questions. I try to build up knowledge and the courage to have a go. I was lucky this time, so far anyway. it is not perfect by any stretch, nothing like yours, but I am relatively happy with it.
    Takes quite a while with a 0.5mm nozzle but once you get going, you soon learn that the paint does not go on too thick so the chances of it running are less, I think.

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    πŸ’¬ Painting.
    3 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Looking good Pete, looking forward to the trials picsπŸ‘
    Wow! What a sprayer! Do you do cars or full size boats as well?

    BTW: 'Every picture tells a story'!?
    Plasters and antiseptic cream close to hand!? 😲

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    3 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    It has been a busy time at work which means that I have very limited time to build at the moment. All things considered all is going well.
    I have started the superstructure. The components are requiring a lot of additional work to fit them. I am glad about this as it is all good experience. My sandpaper and files are glowing due to over use.
    I have found a very useful filler at my local model shop made by Red Devil. it is extremely light and sets in a very short time; ten minutes. it says that it can be painted after ten minutes. Don`t think I will test this.
    I have fitted the deck and sanded down the hull sides to match. I think the weather is almost good enough to start the painting. I am still a little concerned about this particularly with the use of masking tape. I am worried that the previous layers which are covered by the tape will peel on removal. Can anybody tell me how long to allow paint to dry before applying tape and how long can the tape stay in place. I am using Tamiya tape.
    I have decided to illuminate most of the lights and will make a module for flashing the blue light. I have lots of electronic components here as I enjoy making prototype circuits. Unfortunately, my love of making these boards is not matched with a knowledge of exactly how they work so I am sure I will be asking for help with the circuit diagram. I have all the components here.πŸ€“
    Well that all for now. I am currently constructing all of the deck items. This I find more difficult due to the manipulation of very small parts having `sausage fingers`. Must buy more tweezers!!😊

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    3 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    GreatπŸ‘ So I guess you now have about 1.5S On and 1.5S OFF.
    Glad you got there in the end😊
    Happy Flashing 😲
    BTW: Post the video on You-Tube and put the link in the Video Gallery here then we can all see what you've been up to πŸ˜‰
    Cheers, Doug 😎

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    3 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Thanks for the help Doug.
    I only had a 10K resistor between 200K and 4.7K. I fitted it and the result was perfect. Before I did this, I fitted a 220K to R2. The result was a much longer on time and overall frequency. For a Police flashing blue light the 10K is perfect.
    I have now assembled the finished item ready for fitting.
    I did a short video of the breadboard setup but it was 60Mb so too big to send
    Thanks.πŸ€“πŸ˜Š

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    3 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter, Glad it works at all! 😊
    1. the capacitor on pin 5 has no effect on the timing circuit.
    It's only there to stabilise the 555 chip and stop it 'going off it's trolley' at higher frequencies πŸ˜‰ it should be 10nano Farad, not micro Farad.
    It's job is to short any stray high frequencies to ground.
    2. Attached is a table of results I would expect for the values you gave me, and various values of the pot R1.
    The duty cycle (%age On time) should vary between 50% and 95%.
    Max on time 1.4sec at R1 = 200K. But Off time of 32mSec you'll hardly notice.πŸ€”
    3. R2 is way too small at 4.7k compared to the 200k pot.
    I warned you that it needed to be similar to the pot to make the adjustment less sensitive. The low value is also the reason why the Off time (discharge time) is so short at 32.62mSec 😲
    4. The timing cct is governed by R1, R2 and C.
    Pic 2 shows the output waveform switched between Vcc 6V and 0V-
    Increase C to increase the whole period (T1+T0) (reduce the frequency).
    Increase R1 to increase High Time (T1), without affecting the Low Time (T0).
    Increase R2 to increase High Time (T1), increase Low Time (T0) and decrease the duty cycle.
    5. Your 180Ohm resistor is about right for an LED with 2.5V Forward voltage drop and 20mA current. if the LED actually wants 30mA you can go down to a120Ohm.

    So, how much is 'increase the on time a little'?
    What cycle frequency do you want? How long On and how long Off?
    Since you are 'Breadboarding' you could just try plugging in different fixed resistors for R1 (instead of the fiddly pot) and R2.
    Pic 3 shows results for R1 = 47k and R2 = 100k, C = 10uF.
    About 1Sec ON, 0.7Sec Off.
    Cheers, Doug 😎

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    3 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Evening Doug.
    I have made up a couple of circuits. They both work well. I have fitted the variable resistor to your design and it works really well.
    The circuit components are as follows. R1=200k variable. R2= 4k7 resistor. Chip= 7555 CMOS. Capacitor after R2=10uf. Capacitor at pin 5 = 10uf. Single blue LED is 20mA with a 180r resistor. Battery voltage 6V.
    I have some strange results. The variable resistor works well but strangely, if I disconnect the capacitor at pin five, there is no effect to the flashing light at all. it still works well. There is also no effect if I increase or decrease the value.
    I am happy with the results but would like to increase the on time a little. Please can you tell me which component should be altered and whether the value rises or falls.
    Thanks for your help.πŸ˜‰

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    3 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Bon chance mon amiπŸ‘
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    3 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hello Doug.
    I will make the circuit as discussed so far and give you the results. I will try a few things and let you know how I get on.
    Thanks. πŸ˜‰πŸ€“

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    3 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    You mention LEDs (plural) so how many?
    In series or parallel?
    😎

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    3 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    before I do any more example calcs I need to know what flash rate you want and what duty cycle.
    For example; 50% duty cycle = equal On and OFF times. Do you want one flash per second or what?
    Basically I would say that trim pots more than 100KOhm make adjustments very sensitive and difficult. R2 must be of similar value to the pot to minimise that effect.
    I typically use values of 4.7K, 10K and 100K.
    Anything more than 1uF with R1 and R2 in the hundreds of kOhms and you'll get a flash period of around 10 seconds or moreπŸ€”
    Are you still going to use an incandescent bulb πŸ€” or an LED?
    Cheers, Doug 😎
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    3 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Doug.
    It is a 1M pot. This is a single turn component.
    I also have 5k multi turn, 200k one turn, and 500k 1 turn.
    I have loads of resistors. 1,10 and 100uf capacitors.😊
    The LED`s are 20mA.
    I have been reading the Tug lighting thread. interesting.
    Thanks.
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    3 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Evenin' Peter,
    Imagine your pot as R1.
    What value is it by the way?
    I can't answer the second part of your question without knowing what value the pot is!

    To turn the pot into a simple variable resistor connect one end to the wiper, the middle pin. This end is then connected to Pin 7 of the 555 and to the top of R2. The 'open' end is connected to Vcc. 6V ?
    You can then vary R1 over the full range of the pot. Which is ???

    Frequency (= flash rate F) is given by F=1/Cx(R1+2xR2).
    R's in Ohms, C's in microfarads.
    Examples: if your pot (R1) is 10kOhm, R2 is 10kOhm and C is 50uF
    you will get a frequency of 0.96Hz, as near as dammit 1 flash per second 😲 (Don't get arrested!😁)
    Duty cycle will be about 66% i.e. 2/3 ON, 1/3 OFF.
    At the other extreme of the pot, i.e. Zero Ohm -
    F = 1.44Hz, Duty cycle is 50%; 347mSec ON, 347mSec OFF.
    Now you see why I need to know what value pot you have.
    C = 100uF would give you about 700mS ON, 700mS OFF with a 10k pot set to 0Ohm.
    At 10kOhm it would be about 1.4S ON, 0.7S OFF.
    Duty cycle 66% (2/3 On 1/3 OFF).

    Give me the component values you have and I can work out the pissibolities 😲😁
    Cheers, Doug 😎
    PS: CMOS is goodπŸ‘ cos it can switch the full Vss voltage to the output.
    Just check that your bulbs do not draw more then 200mA or you'll pop the 555 output.😑
    Personally I would use LEDs which only need 20 to 30mA.
    Then we get into dropping resistors, which is already a topic with some tug builders hereπŸ˜‰
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    3 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Doug. Still waiting for some components to arrive so that I can try this circuit on my breadboard. One question though. My trimmer pot has 3 contacts. I assume that the middle one is the wiper and the other two are the resistor. Do I connect pin 2, the middle one, to V+ and the other two in line to pin 7. Could you suggest values for R1 and R2. The capacitor in series with these, would 100uf be enough to start and if not enough, how many additional uf is required to make a difference. By the way, the chip is a 7555 CMOS. Thanks.πŸ€“

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    3 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    OK. But remeber the 555/556 outputs can only sink 200mA!!
    If your 'blub' takes more at 6V you will need a transistor driver or a small relay on the output.
    Cheers Doug 😎
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    3 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Thanks Doug. I will try to digest the text and have a go.
    I will be using a 6v bulb. Good job I cannot blow myself up with 6v.πŸ€“πŸ˜±πŸ˜Š
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    3 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter, attached the pinout of the 555 and a circuit for an astable oscillator giving a square wave output suitable for a lamp flasher.
    Frequency (flash rate) is defined by R1, R2 and C. The bigger the 'C' and/or R1 the slower the rate. R2 defines the discharge rate.
    Therefore the ratio of R1 +R2 to R2 defines the ratio of On / Off times!
    A little experimentation needed. You can put your pot in place of R1 for some flash rate (F)adjustment.
    F=1/Cx(R1+2xR2).
    If you want to get really 'snazzy' you can use the 555 in monostable mode (pic 3) and use the pulse output from an RX channel as the trigger input.
    You may need to add a series capacitor and a resistor to ground (try a 10K to start with) to slow the trigger down a bit and experiment with the capacitor, a small electrolytic or Tantalum. it helps if you have an oscilloscope for such experiments! A cheap analogue 100Khz or 1Mhz job would do.
    The astable version is simpler, just put a remote controllably switch e.g. transistor switch board or, even simpler, just a microswitch mounted on a servoπŸ˜‰) in series with the Vcc (+ supply) to the timer chip.
    It takes longer for the first flash after switch on to occur as the cap has to charge up from 0V to 2/3 Vcc. After that only from 1/3 Vcc to 2/3.
    Ratio of ON time to OFF time depends on R1 and R2.
    ON=Cx(R1+R2),
    OFF=CxR2.
    Happy soldering and Flashing 😲, cheers, Doug 😎
    PS: are your 555s bipolar or CMOS? Makes a difference!
    Bipolar types only drive the output to Vcc-1.7V.
    CMOS types drive the output to full Vcc😊
    PPS: One other point! is your 'Blue Lamp' a bulb or an LED?
    If an LED you will need a resistor in series with the output to limit the current to a max of about 30mA. Start with 1KOhm, if too dim go down to around 220/270Ohms.

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    3 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Thought as much πŸ˜‰ 555 8 pin DIL, 556 a 2-in-1 job 14 pin DIL.
    Very versatile chips, bin around almost as long as me 😁
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    3 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I have both.😊
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    3 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Perchance a '555' or '556' timer chip ?
    😎
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    3 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Thanks for your help again Doug.
    It is the circuit diagrams I have difficulty with. I can make the circuit with one. I particularly have trouble with the ic`s as to which terminals to use. I want to use a timer chip to flash the blue light, with a variable resistor pot to adjust the frequency. (Something like that anyway). I will dig out the circuit diagram I used to make a trafic stop signal for a railway crossing. I was hoping to adapt this one.πŸ€“

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    3 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    BTW; re your query about filler and acrylic paints:-
    Any 'standard' polyester type filler will do but be sure to let it cure completely so that all the 'smelly' components, including peroxide from the hardener have evaporated. For small surface nicks I often use 'Green Putty' or Revell 'Plasto'. Doesn't need mixing and is very fine and smooth and NO PONG😊
    Then apply a primer to match the top coat paint you are using.
    happy filling, cheers Doug 😎

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    3 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Nice tidy work Peter πŸ‘,
    Good jointing, sign of some well cared for sharp tools πŸ‘
    I use Tamiya tape as well. Gives a good clean edge and the glue does not attack painted and varnished surfaces. So if the underlying paint was applied over a good primer it shouldn't lift at all.
    As to how long to let dry; check your paint can for info about 'touch dry' and 'can be overpainted after ...' times. To be in the safe side don't apply the tape at the 'touch dry' time, wait a coupla hours more. Leaving to dry (and harden in the sun or under a halogen lamp) speeds things up a bit πŸ˜‰ Also, don't apply paint too thick otherwise it can go touch dry on top (skinning) but still be soft underneath - then masking tape may lift it more easily πŸ€”
    Can you pdf or jpeg me your circuit diagram please? Sounds interesting 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

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