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    Krick Police Launch
    by MouldBuilder πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    4 Posts 24 Comments 28 Photos 4 Likes
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    πŸ“ Fitting
    9 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Well, best laid plans and all that. Things have not gone too well.
    I managed to transport the boat in pieces to Hungary as planned. That is where the plans changed slightly. The plan was to have a trial on the river by the end of my holiday. I was rudely interupted by beautiful weather so I spent a lot of time in the river myself instead.
    I have started to assemble the superstructure and completed the radar, which turns rather realistically when under power. I have added coloured LED`s to the navigation lights. I have mostly completed the painting and laquering. I assembled the hand rails but still have to paint them.
    I started to look into the electrics but had to stop when I found that the pump I purchased was not suitable for purpose. I put the pump under test and it only appears to work if fully submerged. Not really useful for a boat. I will search for a replacement.πŸ€”
    Just a small note, I have now found that the superstructure has warped slightly during painting. I fitted it really closely before painting but now it has twisted slightly. Very disappointed but never mind.😀
    As I am now home until Christmas, there will be no further progress until then. I may not be able to trial until April as our river is often frozen at Christmas.
    Well I could not help myself and bought another kit. This next one is different and should be easier. it will be a Pilots boat. At the same time, I will now continue with the PTB refurbishment.πŸ€“

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    πŸ’¬ Fitting
    9 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    "But, Mousie, thou art no thy-lane,
    In proving foresight may be vain;
    The best-laid schemes o' mice an' men
    Gang aft agley,
    An' lea'e us nought but grief an' pain,
    For promis'd joy!"

    Poor little homeless mouse 😭 squeak squeak!

    Your pump sounds like one intended for a small fountain.
    Look for one which is specced as 'Self priming'.
    Car windscreen washer pumps from the scrap yard do the job, most need 12V though. Graupner & Co do some small 6V jobs.

    Next time plasti-card for the superstructure!?
    Cheers, Doug 😎
    Oh, and for the rest of us Sassenachs amongst us, the modern English version-
    "But Mouse, you are not alone,
    In proving foresight may be vain:
    The best laid schemes of mice and men
    Go often askew,
    And leave us nothing but grief and pain,
    For promised joy!"

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    πŸ“ Painting.
    10 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Well another few weeks have passed and the build is progressing well even though work has taken up most of my time recently.
    I have started painting now and as expected, finding it difficult. Due to the time limit I have, only five days left, I have had to cut a few corners. Sorry Doug, I will try harder next time.
    I have decided to finish all of the parts before Friday and take them to Hungary with me to assemble. Not quite what I had planned, but I think there will be less or no breakage.
    I have added colour LED`s to the navigation lights also. I also have switches operated by the Radio.
    The Radar turns using an additional geared 6v motor and the water cannon will be working also...I hope.
    I include a few pictures to bring the build up to date. Trials should be in two weeks so long as I do not leave something important at home.
    I will add the final build pictures and video the event if I can finish in time.πŸ˜‰

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    πŸ’¬ Painting.
    10 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Looking good Pete, looking forward to the trials picsπŸ‘
    Wow! What a sprayer! Do you do cars or full size boats as well?

    BTW: 'Every picture tells a story'!?
    Plasters and antiseptic cream close to hand!? 😲

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    πŸ’¬ Painting.
    10 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi Doug.
    Thanks. You are right about the first aid. Clumsy. Good that my wife is a nurse me thinks.πŸ˜†
    No. This is my first attempt at spraying anything like this. That is why I ask a lot of questions. I try to build up knowledge and the courage to have a go. I was lucky this time, so far anyway. it is not perfect by any stretch, nothing like yours, but I am relatively happy with it.
    Takes quite a while with a 0.5mm nozzle but once you get going, you soon learn that the paint does not go on too thick so the chances of it running are less, I think.

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    πŸ’¬ Painting.
    10 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Evenin' Neville,
    For a first attempt spraying that's damn goodπŸ‘
    I prefer to use a 0.8mm nozzle for 'big' areas such as hulls.
    0.5 for the 'fine' stuff, e.. cabins and fittings, which I still need to practice! Will need it when I come to the cammo pattern for PT109.
    Practice makes perfect they say! Basic rules (THEY also say😁) are-
    Paint consistency should remind you of milk (no cream!),
    Don't get to close,
    Don't move too slow!
    Keep up the good workπŸ‘ Cheers, Doug 😎

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    πŸ“ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    It has been a busy time at work which means that I have very limited time to build at the moment. All things considered all is going well.
    I have started the superstructure. The components are requiring a lot of additional work to fit them. I am glad about this as it is all good experience. My sandpaper and files are glowing due to over use.
    I have found a very useful filler at my local model shop made by Red Devil. it is extremely light and sets in a very short time; ten minutes. it says that it can be painted after ten minutes. Don`t think I will test this.
    I have fitted the deck and sanded down the hull sides to match. I think the weather is almost good enough to start the painting. I am still a little concerned about this particularly with the use of masking tape. I am worried that the previous layers which are covered by the tape will peel on removal. Can anybody tell me how long to allow paint to dry before applying tape and how long can the tape stay in place. I am using Tamiya tape.
    I have decided to illuminate most of the lights and will make a module for flashing the blue light. I have lots of electronic components here as I enjoy making prototype circuits. Unfortunately, my love of making these boards is not matched with a knowledge of exactly how they work so I am sure I will be asking for help with the circuit diagram. I have all the components here.πŸ€“
    Well that all for now. I am currently constructing all of the deck items. This I find more difficult due to the manipulation of very small parts having `sausage fingers`. Must buy more tweezers!!😊

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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Nice tidy work Peter πŸ‘,
    Good jointing, sign of some well cared for sharp tools πŸ‘
    I use Tamiya tape as well. Gives a good clean edge and the glue does not attack painted and varnished surfaces. So if the underlying paint was applied over a good primer it shouldn't lift at all.
    As to how long to let dry; check your paint can for info about 'touch dry' and 'can be overpainted after ...' times. To be in the safe side don't apply the tape at the 'touch dry' time, wait a coupla hours more. Leaving to dry (and harden in the sun or under a halogen lamp) speeds things up a bit πŸ˜‰ Also, don't apply paint too thick otherwise it can go touch dry on top (skinning) but still be soft underneath - then masking tape may lift it more easily πŸ€”
    Can you pdf or jpeg me your circuit diagram please? Sounds interesting 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    BTW; re your query about filler and acrylic paints:-
    Any 'standard' polyester type filler will do but be sure to let it cure completely so that all the 'smelly' components, including peroxide from the hardener have evaporated. For small surface nicks I often use 'Green Putty' or Revell 'Plasto'. Doesn't need mixing and is very fine and smooth and NO PONG😊
    Then apply a primer to match the top coat paint you are using.
    happy filling, cheers Doug 😎

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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Thanks for your help again Doug.
    It is the circuit diagrams I have difficulty with. I can make the circuit with one. I particularly have trouble with the ic`s as to which terminals to use. I want to use a timer chip to flash the blue light, with a variable resistor pot to adjust the frequency. (Something like that anyway). I will dig out the circuit diagram I used to make a trafic stop signal for a railway crossing. I was hoping to adapt this one.πŸ€“

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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Perchance a '555' or '556' timer chip ?
    😎
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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I have both.😊
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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Thought as much πŸ˜‰ 555 8 pin DIL, 556 a 2-in-1 job 14 pin DIL.
    Very versatile chips, bin around almost as long as me 😁
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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter, attached the pinout of the 555 and a circuit for an astable oscillator giving a square wave output suitable for a lamp flasher.
    Frequency (flash rate) is defined by R1, R2 and C. The bigger the 'C' and/or R1 the slower the rate. R2 defines the discharge rate.
    Therefore the ratio of R1 +R2 to R2 defines the ratio of On / Off times!
    A little experimentation needed. You can put your pot in place of R1 for some flash rate (F)adjustment.
    F=1/Cx(R1+2xR2).
    If you want to get really 'snazzy' you can use the 555 in monostable mode (pic 3) and use the pulse output from an RX channel as the trigger input.
    You may need to add a series capacitor and a resistor to ground (try a 10K to start with) to slow the trigger down a bit and experiment with the capacitor, a small electrolytic or Tantalum. it helps if you have an oscilloscope for such experiments! A cheap analogue 100Khz or 1Mhz job would do.
    The astable version is simpler, just put a remote controllably switch e.g. transistor switch board or, even simpler, just a microswitch mounted on a servoπŸ˜‰) in series with the Vcc (+ supply) to the timer chip.
    It takes longer for the first flash after switch on to occur as the cap has to charge up from 0V to 2/3 Vcc. After that only from 1/3 Vcc to 2/3.
    Ratio of ON time to OFF time depends on R1 and R2.
    ON=Cx(R1+R2),
    OFF=CxR2.
    Happy soldering and Flashing 😲, cheers, Doug 😎
    PS: are your 555s bipolar or CMOS? Makes a difference!
    Bipolar types only drive the output to Vcc-1.7V.
    CMOS types drive the output to full Vcc😊
    PPS: One other point! is your 'Blue Lamp' a bulb or an LED?
    If an LED you will need a resistor in series with the output to limit the current to a max of about 30mA. Start with 1KOhm, if too dim go down to around 220/270Ohms.

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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Thanks Doug. I will try to digest the text and have a go.
    I will be using a 6v bulb. Good job I cannot blow myself up with 6v.πŸ€“πŸ˜±πŸ˜Š
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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    OK. But remeber the 555/556 outputs can only sink 200mA!!
    If your 'blub' takes more at 6V you will need a transistor driver or a small relay on the output.
    Cheers Doug 😎
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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi Doug. Still waiting for some components to arrive so that I can try this circuit on my breadboard. One question though. My trimmer pot has 3 contacts. I assume that the middle one is the wiper and the other two are the resistor. Do I connect pin 2, the middle one, to V+ and the other two in line to pin 7. Could you suggest values for R1 and R2. The capacitor in series with these, would 100uf be enough to start and if not enough, how many additional uf is required to make a difference. By the way, the chip is a 7555 CMOS. Thanks.πŸ€“

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    11 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Evenin' Peter,
    Imagine your pot as R1.
    What value is it by the way?
    I can't answer the second part of your question without knowing what value the pot is!

    To turn the pot into a simple variable resistor connect one end to the wiper, the middle pin. This end is then connected to Pin 7 of the 555 and to the top of R2. The 'open' end is connected to Vcc. 6V ?
    You can then vary R1 over the full range of the pot. Which is ???

    Frequency (= flash rate F) is given by F=1/Cx(R1+2xR2).
    R's in Ohms, C's in microfarads.
    Examples: if your pot (R1) is 10kOhm, R2 is 10kOhm and C is 50uF
    you will get a frequency of 0.96Hz, as near as dammit 1 flash per second 😲 (Don't get arrested!😁)
    Duty cycle will be about 66% i.e. 2/3 ON, 1/3 OFF.
    At the other extreme of the pot, i.e. Zero Ohm -
    F = 1.44Hz, Duty cycle is 50%; 347mSec ON, 347mSec OFF.
    Now you see why I need to know what value pot you have.
    C = 100uF would give you about 700mS ON, 700mS OFF with a 10k pot set to 0Ohm.
    At 10kOhm it would be about 1.4S ON, 0.7S OFF.
    Duty cycle 66% (2/3 On 1/3 OFF).

    Give me the component values you have and I can work out the pissibolities 😲😁
    Cheers, Doug 😎
    PS: CMOS is goodπŸ‘ cos it can switch the full Vss voltage to the output.
    Just check that your bulbs do not draw more then 200mA or you'll pop the 555 output.😑
    Personally I would use LEDs which only need 20 to 30mA.
    Then we get into dropping resistors, which is already a topic with some tug builders hereπŸ˜‰
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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi Doug.
    It is a 1M pot. This is a single turn component.
    I also have 5k multi turn, 200k one turn, and 500k 1 turn.
    I have loads of resistors. 1,10 and 100uf capacitors.😊
    The LED`s are 20mA.
    I have been reading the Tug lighting thread. interesting.
    Thanks.
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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    before I do any more example calcs I need to know what flash rate you want and what duty cycle.
    For example; 50% duty cycle = equal On and OFF times. Do you want one flash per second or what?
    Basically I would say that trim pots more than 100KOhm make adjustments very sensitive and difficult. R2 must be of similar value to the pot to minimise that effect.
    I typically use values of 4.7K, 10K and 100K.
    Anything more than 1uF with R1 and R2 in the hundreds of kOhms and you'll get a flash period of around 10 seconds or moreπŸ€”
    Are you still going to use an incandescent bulb πŸ€” or an LED?
    Cheers, Doug 😎
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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    You mention LEDs (plural) so how many?
    In series or parallel?
    😎

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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hello Doug.
    I will make the circuit as discussed so far and give you the results. I will try a few things and let you know how I get on.
    Thanks. πŸ˜‰πŸ€“

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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Bon chance mon amiπŸ‘
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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Evening Doug.
    I have made up a couple of circuits. They both work well. I have fitted the variable resistor to your design and it works really well.
    The circuit components are as follows. R1=200k variable. R2= 4k7 resistor. Chip= 7555 CMOS. Capacitor after R2=10uf. Capacitor at pin 5 = 10uf. Single blue LED is 20mA with a 180r resistor. Battery voltage 6V.
    I have some strange results. The variable resistor works well but strangely, if I disconnect the capacitor at pin five, there is no effect to the flashing light at all. it still works well. There is also no effect if I increase or decrease the value.
    I am happy with the results but would like to increase the on time a little. Please can you tell me which component should be altered and whether the value rises or falls.
    Thanks for your help.πŸ˜‰

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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter, Glad it works at all! 😊
    1. the capacitor on pin 5 has no effect on the timing circuit.
    It's only there to stabilise the 555 chip and stop it 'going off it's trolley' at higher frequencies πŸ˜‰ it should be 10nano Farad, not micro Farad.
    It's job is to short any stray high frequencies to ground.
    2. Attached is a table of results I would expect for the values you gave me, and various values of the pot R1.
    The duty cycle (%age On time) should vary between 50% and 95%.
    Max on time 1.4sec at R1 = 200K. But Off time of 32mSec you'll hardly notice.πŸ€”
    3. R2 is way too small at 4.7k compared to the 200k pot.
    I warned you that it needed to be similar to the pot to make the adjustment less sensitive. The low value is also the reason why the Off time (discharge time) is so short at 32.62mSec 😲
    4. The timing cct is governed by R1, R2 and C.
    Pic 2 shows the output waveform switched between Vcc 6V and 0V-
    Increase C to increase the whole period (T1+T0) (reduce the frequency).
    Increase R1 to increase High Time (T1), without affecting the Low Time (T0).
    Increase R2 to increase High Time (T1), increase Low Time (T0) and decrease the duty cycle.
    5. Your 180Ohm resistor is about right for an LED with 2.5V Forward voltage drop and 20mA current. if the LED actually wants 30mA you can go down to a120Ohm.

    So, how much is 'increase the on time a little'?
    What cycle frequency do you want? How long On and how long Off?
    Since you are 'Breadboarding' you could just try plugging in different fixed resistors for R1 (instead of the fiddly pot) and R2.
    Pic 3 shows results for R1 = 47k and R2 = 100k, C = 10uF.
    About 1Sec ON, 0.7Sec Off.
    Cheers, Doug 😎

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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Thanks for the help Doug.
    I only had a 10K resistor between 200K and 4.7K. I fitted it and the result was perfect. Before I did this, I fitted a 220K to R2. The result was a much longer on time and overall frequency. For a Police flashing blue light the 10K is perfect.
    I have now assembled the finished item ready for fitting.
    I did a short video of the breadboard setup but it was 60Mb so too big to send
    Thanks.πŸ€“πŸ˜Š

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    πŸ’¬ Seeing the light
    11 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    GreatπŸ‘ So I guess you now have about 1.5S On and 1.5S OFF.
    Glad you got there in the end😊
    Happy Flashing 😲
    BTW: Post the video on You-Tube and put the link in the Video Gallery here then we can all see what you've been up to πŸ˜‰
    Cheers, Doug 😎

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    πŸ“ Krick Police Launch
    12 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I have just started to build the Police Launch that I have had for a while. Work commitments have left me with little time lately but hopefully I can get a good run on this one for a while. I hope to finish it by late July which just leaves me enough time to send it to Hungary so that I can test it.
    The kit is said to be good for a beginner. This would be good as many years ago I built a Patrol Torpedo Boat which took me five years. I am currently restoring this one as well but I think that will take most of this year to complete.😁
    I have started by buying the speed controller. The motor is a 400 brushed. Probably not going to be too difficult to keep up with this one.
    The kit itself is not too bad considering the price, but I do feel that the ABS vacuum formed hull could be of a slightly better quality. Also I am finding the ply wood to be rather brittle. Does anybody have an idea for a good filler to use to fill the chips which will take to acrylic paint.
    I have prepared the hull and added the propeller shaft and rudder holes. Care taken here to avoid splits in the plastic. Cellotape on both sides before drilling helps.πŸ€“
    I have assembled the internal parts which hold the motor, battery and rudder and also fitted the prop shaft.😲
    I will start on the deck and superstructure next.
    An additional note about the kit. The instructions are reasonable but they are in black and white which is not helpful considering they are photograph based with text. I found a PDF on the web which is in full colour. Why don`t Krick supply this. Surely not that expensive.πŸ€”

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