Have added pipework to the water pickups and outlets, and manually shaped them to resemble the original within reason.
Camber of the deck checked and some frames need adjusting.
Stand progressing.

Pictures:-
a/ Internal view of water scoops and outlets.
b/ Boat stand, needed to put together for the next stage of putting the deck on.
c/ Added some stringers to help support the deck, as it is very thin.

Have marked out the vents, hatches and deadlights on the deck.

Hi All,
Have made up some red LEDs (6) to light up the exhaust ports had to use araldite to fix them in position.
Cut holes in deck (and in my finger) for vents, hatches and deadlights, and also reinforced the rear deck sections and added extra support for the last 4-6 inches of decking before the transom, this is because the side profile of the deck is a very slight elongated 'S' shape, low at the Bow then rises, the near the stern it lowers and up again at the Transom.
Cut some Perspex for deadlights all 22 of them.

I was 'brave' today I stuck my deck down, after putting in the 22 deadlights and as many LEDs under them, the stern was cut into strips so it could tilt upward slightly and some last minute cuts to the bow, allowed it to tilt downwards slightly.
Once glue dries, will sand access area, and peel the glue off my fingers, messy stuff Gorilla glue.

Picture are out of order!
Tested the LEDs under deadlights.
Added 4 more LEDs at stern deadlights.
Sanded edges of boat and have applied a rubbing strip / Gunwale trim with the help of weights, pins, tape and glue.

One thing I have realised with this build is that there are few straight lines on this boat the deck has been difficult to do with sheet ply.

In my research which I have enjoyed doing, I found that the early boats had planked decks and later ones had ply decks (cheaper /quicker).

Surprisingly though the planked decks are virtually impossible to make out from a distance, as they are tight fitted and often covered in paint and sand for grip, so when you see a model Elco 80 with obvious planked deck, with black lines between planks (Caulking) or varnished mahogany they are exaggerated features.

Hi all,
Added Spray Rails and bump rails (Shearline) had to adjust the transom area as deck was 2mm out on one side. so a rebuild was required
The trouble with Gorilla glue is it will move your wood (ply) as it expands, if not clamped down, but then will lift areas not clamped down. (note you can get none expanding Gorilla glue)
Another problem is tidying up the expanded glue. the advantage of it is is 100% waterproof.

Hi there Shipmates,
Fitted a frame to the deck for the main superstructure, the helm area I hope to build directly on the deck, and the chart room and engine room areas will be removable, cleaned up stern rudder compartment, (Lazarette).
I removed the tops of a couple of bulkheads to improve access.
I think the superstructure and fitting are going to be very difficult, compared to the hull.

Regards Roy

Hi there Shipmates,
Purchased some copper washers for the exhaust pipes and glued them on with araldite.
Built some of the Torpedo tube pads. these taper with the camber of the deck.
Started some rudimentary helm/cabin construction.
doing jobs all over the place while waiting for some materials.

"Shiver me timbers", its not finished yet!
Roy

Working on rear hatch, planked hatch this will not show when painted. and a bit more work on the foreword cabin.
A little work on the torpedo tube mounts can be seen.

Hi there,
Spent some time on the day cabin sides, they are only 0.8mm ply so needed reinforcing, added start of roof camber.
Have started using clear non expanding Gorilla Glue.
Regards Roy