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    9

















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    Milford Star
    by Elsrickle πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
    πŸ“£










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    16 Posts 51 Comments 0 Photos 68 Likes
    Most recent posts shown first   (Show Oldest First) (Print Booklet)
    πŸ“ Final stage
    8 days ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Have managed to complete the masts and final parts of the build just got a couple of flags to fix to funnel. When the weather gets a bit better will get it in the local lake.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Final stage
    8 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
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    That looks super. Fine detail really well done.😊
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Final stage
    8 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    You have done a really fantastic job, something to be proud of.
    I look forward to seeing her hit the water.
    As she is packed with electronics Will you be making a video showing everything working ?
    Excellent work.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Final stage
    8 days ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi Martin Will be doing a video later.if don’t get the weather a bit milder might do one inside to show the working parts.
    Ian
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Final stage
    8 days ago by figtree7nts ( Vice Admiral)
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    A museum quality model!
    Job well done!

    I can't wait to see a video of her!

    Cheers, Ed
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Final stage
    7 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Excellent Ian,
    Looking forward to seeing it.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Final stage
    7 days ago by jbkiwi ( Commodore)
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    Lovely job Ian, looking forward to the video.
    JB
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    πŸ“ Superstructure
    1 month ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Have at last almost finished the superstructure, just the mizzen sail and funnel emblem to make and fit. All lighting system done fitted and with multi pin plug for lights and JR plug for d/f motor.
    Loudspeaker is for the ships horn. Decking is done same as main deck and wheelhouse done with planking same as forecastle front. Hard to see but small figure in wheelhouse at the helm. Funnel is fitted with smoke generator. Main mast same as foremast made in sections on printer just so both would match.

    printer
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Superstructure
    1 month ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    The superstructure looks excellent, I cannot wait to see her in all her splendour.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Superstructure
    1 month ago by jbkiwi ( Commodore)
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    Very nice work, I'm looking forward to the launching vid.
    JB
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    πŸ“ Deck planking
    2 months ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Decided to fit planking instead of the printed sheets, and also planked the forecastle entrance. This is held in position with two magnets at each end as I require access to anchor winch. After glueing down the planking with half mill spacing I then coated the gaps with dark wood filler and when dry sanded off to give the caulking effect between planks. Then finished with a satin varnish. Have glued down deck and fitted the bulkhead fillets also most of the fittings on main deck and fore deck.

    sheets
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Deck planking
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    You have done a really fantastic job of planking the deck.
    You certainty have a lot of patience.
    Your workmanship and skill is excellent, you are a true master.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Deck planking
    2 months ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant)
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    Like the idea of leaving a 0.5mm gap, then filling later
    with dark filler,πŸ‘ Did the filler stain the planks much?

    Cheers, Pete
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Deck planking
    2 months ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Absolutely no staining at all just smear on lightly making sure it gets in between the joints and leave till fully dry, then sand down to planking.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Deck planking
    2 months ago by jbkiwi ( Commodore)
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    Going great guns there, planking looks much better than printed,-very nice!
    JB

    guns
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Deck planking
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Planking always looks better than printed board its also all part of "making" a model
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    πŸ“ Electrics 2
    2 months ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Some of the circuits I built on veroboard board using circuit drawings I found on the net. Steam sound generator is MRW, whistle, single and quad switch are from action.
    Voltage regulars I built, drive switching circuitry for pump, smoke generator, d/f and Morse lamp. I built also the cycle timers for d/f,Morse lamp and boiler fire lights.
    So I don’t get too mixed up with all the bits. The engine sound, smoke generator, boiler fire lights and water pump come on when prop runs forward or reverse, the d/f and Morse have each got a cycle timer of different times and run only when prop runs forward.
    Then the only things I need to switch are the lights on quad switch and single switch for the sound. Motor, rudder, anchor and quad switch are on joysticks so still have a spare channel at the moment.
    I would like to make my on quad switch and sound generators but can’t find circuit drawing anywhere.

    lamp
    sound generators
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Electrics 2
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Ian,
    That is good work.
    As I am no good at electronics i will have to give you a shout if i need a little circuit made.

    Keep up the good work.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Electrics 2
    2 months ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Martin any time at all only too happy to oblige. Enjoy the challenge, hardest part is finding the circuits.
    Ian
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Electrics 2
    2 months ago by Graham93 ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi Ian,

    Here’s a simple sound generator circuit you can experiment with. I have just started to play with this today. The sound is a bit basic. There are lots of other circuits available on this site, some of which you may find useful.

    Graham93
    http://www.talkingelectronics.com/te_interactive_index.html
    πŸ”—
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Electrics 2
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Thank you Ian.
    I will keep it in mind.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Electrics 2
    2 months ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Many thanks Graham will check it out now
    Ian
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    πŸ“ Electrics
    2 months ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Various photos here of the electrics. Have fitted some electrical trunking down each side it helps keep the cables tidy. Have also fitted a 20amp 6volt auto relay which is operated by hidden switch on deck which controls all power to electrics. Small 2 amp fuse fitted to safeguard the ancillary equipment. For ease in binding have installed a switch in binding plug link then you don’t have to mess about plugging in and out the bind plug, it will be fitted opposite the fuse holder at top of battery compartment. On the top opening where superstructure fits have a 9 pin socket for electrics in superstructure as well as loose plug for d/f motor supply.( would have liked to fit pc board connectors but not sure what to get so went this route instead.)

    auto relay
    motor supply.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Electrics
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    That's some boat full of electronics, Mind boggling, did you design all these circuits or are they built from kits?
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Electrics
    2 months ago by jbkiwi ( Commodore)
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    Any fish to go with all those chips!? - (And what Mike said!) You're going to have to make a menu board to clip on your TX to remember all the options there by the looks of it!😁 Nice work,
    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Electrics
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    WOW Ian,
    That is some circuitry, excellent job.
    You will be making computers next LOL!!
    In fact i think that is a computer disguised as a ship LOL!

    Martin555.

    computers
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Electrics
    2 months ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Maybe when I start trawling
    Ian
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    πŸ“ Winch Linkage
    2 months ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    For the linkage system I used 8mm x 1mm brass sheet, the first piece from the servo I tapped a M2 hole at servo end with a flat washer between the servo this is then adjusted for free movement and secured with a lock nut. Second angle piece had both holes tapped M2 and again fitted with flat washer and fastened with locknut.
    The pivot piece I soldered a brass tube in centre as seen in photo also had to add spacer pillar of 10 mm to get correct height as a straight pull on pillar is required so no twist on pivot as with the magnet pull there is a lot of strain hence the reason for upgrading from micro servo to 3kg servo. This is fitted with thick washer and nyloc nut to allow free movement but not sloppy.
    The final part of the linkage is the most critical this is 2mm brass rod with a long thread for adjustment and ease of fitting, other end is 6mm dia x 2mm thick brass disc also tapped M2 and screwed onto the rod then soldered for for security. Next the two brass pillars one drilled for the rod the other solid both have 1mm shoulders and tapped M2 with the link approx 12mm between centres (may change according to servo movement) on top to move freely on pillars.
    The hole going through the motor mounting for the rod also tapped M2 with locknuts either side to keep secure. This must be exactly below the centre of the motor shaft to ensure a straight pull from the magnet drum.
    The operation of servo. When magnet is against chain drum and servo in neutral position inside pillar should be resting against disc on the rod. When servo moves to down position it should pull the the magnet totally free from the chain drum and allow the it to revolve freely the motor at this stage will also turn but if servo is fully over should not affect the free fall. When the servo is returned to neutral position the outside pillar will tap the disc on the rod and the magnet pull draws the magnet drum back home. Now when the servo goes to the raised position the linkage slides along but does not press on disc and the motor will be raising the anchor. Bother motor and servo are connected to same receiver plug. The speed controller allows inching of the anchor as it comes home. Adjusting servo movement on transmitter is not advisable as it will effect motor speed. Best to adjust linkage to get correct.
    Hope this is all clear any queries with this just ask and I will try to help.
    Elsrickle

    1mm brass sheet
    washer
    rod
    M2
    flat washer
    transmitter
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Winch Linkage
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Ian,
    Very clever.
    I bet you must of woken up in the night many times thinking (if i did this or maybe it will work better if i did that)
    In fact i bet you are still thinking about changing things ready for the next boat.

    Excellent work.

    Martin555.

    boat
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Winch Linkage
    2 months ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi Martin you are dead right mark seven is in my mind, and a dual one pointing bow to stern one side wound clockwise the other anti clockwise
    Ian
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Winch Linkage
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Ian,
    That will be very interesting to see.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ“ Winch detail
    2 months ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    As you can see this is made mostly with printer but am sure could be made with wood or plastic. The base has a slot 8mm wide by 5mm thick a hole 1.8mm goes through it and the sliding motor mount 1.5mm wire is used as guide and holds the mount in place the wire is also held in position with the small keeper block. The mount must be able to slide freely with no tight spots. Pictures show wire in base and on mount.
    Next chain drum and drive disc have 2.1mm hole all the way through for 2mm brass shaft the 3mm hole drill 10mm deep in drive drum at motor end. The motor then gets fitted on sliding platform. On drive drum face drill 2 holes 6mm Dia and 3mm deep, 180 degs apart for magnets. These are then glued in with a bed of epoxy adhesive as in photo, where the 2mm shaft goes through drill a recess 5mm Dia and 2mm deep for cable drum retaining ring. Also drill a hole 1.5mm Dia about 5mm from end of motor side of drum and tap for M2 grub screw for holding motor shaft. Now fix drum on to motor.
    At chain drum side cut a thin piece of tin and glue to face of drum this I used super glue and a mall brass nail fitted for a bit of extra security as in photo. Two 1mm holes drilled through the centre length of the drum very close to the outside diameter and clear of centre shaft. A piece of copper wire can be fed through one hole the chain link fed through the copper wire and the wire is fed through the other hole then the two twisted together or soldered to hold chain in centre of drum.
    Now 2mm brass rod is pushed through the drum ( I fitted 2 x 2mm flat washers at this point between mounting bracket and chain drum to ensure the drum did not rub on bracket) making sure sure the drum spins very freely the rod is pushed through the hole in the motor drum until it meets the motor shaft then push hard to slide the motor to end stop. Now slowly push motor forward towards the chain drum (fully open gap between drum 7-10mm) when fully home fit holding sleeve on brass rod at outside of bracket and tighten grub screw this should give the correct length for rod. Now push motor back to end and make sure shaft is still in motor drum. If not adjust until it is still in shaft Next push chain drum back against washers and shaft pushed towards motor make a saw cut in brass rod to mark drum position now remove shaft and make a brass ring to fit tightly on saw cut on shaft and solder then clean all solder from chain drum side of shaft refit and check drum still runs freely adjust as required when sure cut off brass rod as photo
    The base I made is 120 x 50mm x 5mm, chain drum 30mm x 25mm Dia, mountings were 28mm high x20mm wide. Will continue with linkage setup next. Any questions or ideas please feel free to let me know.

    printer
    flat washers
    adhesive
    washers
    rod
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Winch detail
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    That is a very clever and well though out system.
    Excellent work Ian.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Winch detail
    2 months ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Thanks glad you enjoyed it
    Ian
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    πŸ“ Anchor in boat
    2 months ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Here is video of anchor working from boat. Couldn’t get the two videos in same blog.
    18 November 2019
    ▢️

    boat
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Anchor in boat
    2 months ago by figtree7nts ( Vice Admiral)
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    Hi Elsricle,

    Very good, With the working anchor!

    Cheers, Ed

    Hi Elsricle
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Anchor in boat
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Definitely the best free fall Anchor winch system i have seen.
    Excellent work.
    Is it possible to give a more in-depth article of the making and operating system ?

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Anchor in boat
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant)
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    Very impressive.
    I agree with Martin, it would be great if you could add additional details.
    Thanks. Peter.πŸ˜€
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Anchor in boat
    2 months ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi guys will try and explain it in more detail will I keep it here or post in another area
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Anchor in boat
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    As you have just posted your winch here i would carry on with the detailed explanation here too.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Anchor in boat
    2 months ago by jbkiwi ( Commodore)
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    Brilliant system. I was wondering if you could fit a round magnet the diam of the drum, and set it up to act as a safety 'clutch' to slip if you went past the stopping point (if it doesn't work like that now), to avoid putting strain on/stalling the motor etc ? Pic is just to show type I mean.
    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Anchor in boat
    2 months ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi will give a more detailed story soon just looking out some old bits to photo to help explain better
    Elsrickle
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Anchor in boat
    2 months ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Haven’t tried anything like that. But need to watch it might also slip when lifting the anchor if it has to pull through weed or anything while raising the anchor. I watch as it comes up as with the speed controller you can creep the anchor as soon as it’s in sight.
    Elsrickle
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    πŸ“ Anchor Winch
    2 months ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    This is now the the mark six version(previous versions scrapped) after various attempts I found the use of magnets for the clutch the most reliable. The drum with the chain has a metal disc made from top of soup tin as this was thin and light, superglued to drum with a small brass nail in to give extra security. A brass rod going through the chain drum also protrudes through into the drive drum for a short distance top keep things in alignment. A brass ring is also soldered to the brass rod to keep chain drum in firm position, the drive drum is also recessed for this ring enabling magnets to close up to metal ring. The servo is used to disengage the magnet allowing the anchor to free fall in lower position servo neutral position brings magnet back to chain drum holding anchor taut then when the servo is push forward it only slides on linkage and the motor turns to raise the anchor. The motor is a small geared motor of about 100 rpm and has a esc fitted for better control when inching home the anchor. Both magnet and servo I operate from tx stick. Care has to be taken to get the adjustment on the linkage correct and the chain drum must spin very freely. I also had to change the servo to a 3kg servo to beat the magnet pull and fit ball joints on linkage for better adjustment. My anchor was 4grams and that seemed the lightest the drum would move freely with. However the motor can lift 40 grams as that what I tested the lift at. Also did 100 non stop free fall drops and lifts to check reliability and everything was firm after my test.
    18 November 2019
    ▢️

    version
    ring
    stick
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Anchor Winch
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Excellent Elsrickle,πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘
    By far the simplest solution I have seen yet, but elegant and very effective.
    Well done and many thanks for sharing.
    Gonna try this on my destroyer.
    Got a few of those little geared motors kicking about.
    Same principle could also be used for the depth charge cranes and boat davits😁
    Cheers, Doug 😎
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Anchor Winch
    2 months ago by jbkiwi ( Commodore)
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    Re- This is now the the mark six version
    Very ingenious!
    JB

    version
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    πŸ“ Mast lights
    2 months ago by Elsrickle ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    As I wanted to install lights in foremast and had trouble trying to drill the centre of the doweling in one piece. I decided to try a hollow section mast. This is in five sections with 4mm thin brass tubing a firm push fit. The length of these sections was determined by where the mast rings are positioned. Which enabled the joints to be hidden.The mast rings are glued only on the top side of the ring and a strengthener fitted below the deck to hold the mast in position. Lights are fitted and wired through the sections one wire used for ovolt of mast lights and one wire used for ovolt of deck lights. Wiring has two plugs at end for connecting to main cabling under the deck. The mast is then assembled and when installed all the rigging at the various rings will hold the mast firmly in position. This style of fitting means the mast can always be removed for lamp replacement if required. Although I made the mast on my printer it could always be done this way using short pieces of doweling which are easier to drill though the centre.

    ring
    lamp replacement
    printer
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