For the linkage system I used 8mm x 1mm brass sheet, the first piece from the servo I tapped a M2 hole at servo end with a flat washer between the servo this is then adjusted for free movement and secured with a lock nut. Second angle piece had both holes tapped M2 and again fitted with flat washer and fastened with locknut.
The pivot piece I soldered a brass tube in centre as seen in photo also had to add spacer pillar of 10 mm to get correct height as a straight pull on pillar is required so no twist on pivot as with the magnet pull there is a lot of strain hence the reason for upgrading from micro servo to 3kg servo. This is fitted with thick washer and nyloc nut to allow free movement but not sloppy.
The final part of the linkage is the most critical this is 2mm brass rod with a long thread for adjustment and ease of fitting, other end is 6mm dia x 2mm thick brass disc also tapped M2 and screwed onto the rod then soldered for for security. Next the two brass pillars one drilled for the rod the other solid both have 1mm shoulders and tapped M2 with the link approx 12mm between centres (may change according to servo movement) on top to move freely on pillars.
The hole going through the motor mounting for the rod also tapped M2 with locknuts either side to keep secure. This must be exactly below the centre of the motor shaft to ensure a straight pull from the magnet drum.
The operation of servo. When magnet is against chain drum and servo in neutral position inside pillar should be resting against disc on the rod. When servo moves to down position it should pull the the magnet totally free from the chain drum and allow the it to revolve freely the motor at this stage will also turn but if servo is fully over should not affect the free fall. When the servo is returned to neutral position the outside pillar will tap the disc on the rod and the magnet pull draws the magnet drum back home. Now when the servo goes to the raised position the linkage slides along but does not press on disc and the motor will be raising the anchor. Bother motor and servo are connected to same receiver plug. The speed controller allows inching of the anchor as it comes home. Adjusting servo movement on transmitter is not advisable as it will effect motor speed. Best to adjust linkage to get correct.
Hope this is all clear any queries with this just ask and I will try to help.
Elsrickle

Various photos here of the electrics. Have fitted some electrical trunking down each side it helps keep the cables tidy. Have also fitted a 20amp 6volt auto relay which is operated by hidden switch on deck which controls all power to electrics. Small 2 amp fuse fitted to safeguard the ancillary equipment. For ease in binding have installed a switch in binding plug link then you don’t have to mess about plugging in and out the bind plug, it will be fitted opposite the fuse holder at top of battery compartment. On the top opening where superstructure fits have a 9 pin socket for electrics in superstructure as well as loose plug for d/f motor supply.( would have liked to fit pc board connectors but not sure what to get so went this route instead.)

Some of the circuits I built on veroboard board using circuit drawings I found on the net. Steam sound generator is MRW, whistle, single and quad switch are from action.
Voltage regulars I built, drive switching circuitry for pump, smoke generator, d/f and Morse lamp. I built also the cycle timers for d/f,Morse lamp and boiler fire lights.
So I don’t get too mixed up with all the bits. The engine sound, smoke generator, boiler fire lights and water pump come on when prop runs forward or reverse, the d/f and Morse have each got a cycle timer of different times and run only when prop runs forward.
Then the only things I need to switch are the lights on quad switch and single switch for the sound. Motor, rudder, anchor and quad switch are on joysticks so still have a spare channel at the moment.
I would like to make my on quad switch and sound generators but can’t find circuit drawing anywhere.

Decided to fit planking instead of the printed sheets, and also planked the forecastle entrance. This is held in position with two magnets at each end as I require access to anchor winch. After glueing down the planking with half mill spacing I then coated the gaps with dark wood filler and when dry sanded off to give the caulking effect between planks. Then finished with a satin varnish. Have glued down deck and fitted the bulkhead fillets also most of the fittings on main deck and fore deck.

Have at last almost finished the superstructure, just the mizzen sail and funnel emblem to make and fit. All lighting system done fitted and with multi pin plug for lights and JR plug for d/f motor.
Loudspeaker is for the ships horn. Decking is done same as main deck and wheelhouse done with planking same as forecastle front. Hard to see but small figure in wheelhouse at the helm. Funnel is fitted with smoke generator. Main mast same as foremast made in sections on printer just so both would match.

Have managed to complete the masts and final parts of the build just got a couple of flags to fix to funnel. When the weather gets a bit better will get it in the local lake.