Having already started the build, Martin555 suggested I do a build log. Never done one before so here goes.
First impressions of the kit - very comprehensive and parts of good quality, as I would expect from the manufacturers, Jotika.
However, I soon found that quite a few parts had been numbered incorrectly, so be careful!
Two versions can be built, civilian and Royal Navy. Being a keen military modeller, there was no contest.
My first decision was the power plant. Steam far too expensive and complicated, so I decided on electric.
Recommended were 900 brushless motors which are very big lumps. Consultation with Jotika resulted in 540 2.5:1 geared motors which had the added advantage of lower shafts, making it easier to connect the prop shafts, which are parallel to the hull.
60mm 4 bladed props completed the drive train, which as you will see later from the sea trials proved very effective.

(Apologies for the lack of detailed photos at this stage.)

A 44 page instruction manual, three full sized scale drawings and a double sided A4 sheet of photographs should give me enough guidance.
Construction starts with making the stand. However, I was soon to find that 8.5mm ply, although fine for displaying the boat without ballast, is useless when the model is in sea going trim. A stand from 20mm softwood solved the problem.
The next job was to remove excess (approx 10mm) grp from the top of the hull down to a marked line, which gives the correct bulwark height. I found it advantageous to highlight the line with masking tape. My trusty Dremel took off most of the excess followed by careful sanding with a block.
The kit does not come with motors or props (due to the steam or electric option), but it does come with prop shafts. The centre of the holes are marked on the hull and as with all holes drilled in grp, I started off with a small drill and enlarged the hole with a round file to prevent the gel coat cracking.
Lining up and positioning the prop shafts parallel to the hull is simplified with the A frames. I then 'tacked' the shafts into the hull with superglue, which allowed any final tweaking, before securing them with Isopon P40 (this is the one with short strands of fibre and seems to give a stronger fixing than the smooth P38).
Drilling and fitting the rudder is straightforward. Two rudders are supplied, an exact scale one with skeg and pintles and a more robust one, which is recommended for "frequent radio control use". I fitted the second one.
So far so good!

And it was all going so well! If all else fails, read the instructions and look carefully at the drawings.
Having removed deck camber beams, mid deck bulkheads and longitudinal stringers from the CNC sheets, I glued the assembly together and taped it to a flat surface to dry, as per the instructions. However, as you can see from the two magnified sections in picture 1, the deck camber beams and stringers are not flush. I only became aware of this after glueing the assembly into the hull and trying to dry fit the aft deck.
Once again, the trusty Dremel with cutting disc attached came into its own and I managed to rectify the problem - not without difficulty.
Before glueing the bulkhead assembly into place I fitted the motors. As I have already mentioned, with the propshafts parallel to the hull, there is very little clearance for the motors. However, with the offset shafts on the 2.5:1 540 geared motors, this was not a problem.
I used vac formed plastic 'cradle' motor mounts and standard universal couplings.
I am now a great believer in using proprietary silicone sealant to fix the motors onto the mounts. This not only cushions vibration but allows tweaking of the final line up, which I do by eye. Before the sealant sets, I run the motors and further tweak to get as little vibration as possible. See pic 4.
With motors in place it was time to fix the bulkhead assembly into the hull. Instructions suggest using slow cure epoxy, but I used Gorilla glue, which does the job just as well, without the trouble of mixing. Included in the bulkhead assembly is the servo tray for the rudder and with that connected and the power plant -two 12v 7ah lead acid batteries - in place, sea trials were fast approaching.

The fore sub-deck is glued onto the bulkhead assembly, prior to fixing it into the hull. This is a straightforward operation, but some sanding of the sub deck is needed, particularly around the bow. With short strips of square balsa glued onto the hull sides between the deck beams, to support the edges of the foredeck, the whole unit was again dry fitted.
Happy with the dry fit and armed with various clamps and clothes pegs, I glued the assembly into place. (Once again, apologies for the lack of photos as I did this before deciding on doing the blog).
Before fitting the aft sub-deck, I cut out an opening to get to the tiller if necessary. The opening will be disguised later in the build.

Sea Trials.
I decided on lead acid batteries, as the weight would go a long way towards ballasting - she sits very low in the water. Jotika advised 60mm 4 bladed props, which were duly fitted.
As I have already said, I use a Taranis radio and this has the advantage of being able to set up a differential drive between the motors and rudder in the transmitter. As you can see on the video, she turns in her own length.
You will also see from the video the 'deck cargo', or cardboard box full of the white metal fittings. This gave me a better idea of how much more ballast I would require for the finished model.
I did have a scary moment when the 'deck cargo' shifted and she took on an alarming list to port! I thought I would be a contender for the 'Titanic Award', presented annually by our club for the best sinking. However, with nerves of steel, I navigated her safely back to the slipway.
I was most pleased with the way she handled and moved through the water. The motors and props supply more than enough power and she will require very little more ballasting.

Now for the good bits! This is part of a build which I really enjoy, when the boat starts to take shape. With 750 white metal parts there should be plenty of detail.
With the main sub decks in place, I fitted the bulkhead facias, together with the extended bulkhead. The parts are pre cut to take the white metal portholes and watertight doors, which I glued in with superglue. The holes needed enlarging to allow the portholes to fit correctly. (Irritating).
Using the screen printed sub foredeck overlay as a guide, I drew around the curve to give the position of the breakwater. The breakwater is made of ply and to achieve the curve, I soaked it in water for 10 minutes which made it supple enough to follow the line I had drawn. To get a quick and secure fix I used superglue.
Cutting the gaps in the forecastle bulkhead down to deck level was straightforward, but if you use a dremel cutting disc, don't get over enthusiastic and cut into things you shouldn't!
The last bit of this section is fitting the portholes, ash shute doors, hawse lips and and mooring port lips. All these are white metal and the hole centres are marked on the hull. Having used a small drill to start the holes off, I enlarge them with a reamer to prevent the gel coat cracking.
The portholes on the hull have rigoles (eyebrows) and when I have fitted these in the past, I have always got some of them on the scunt (aka crooked). Having taken great care to get the first one correctly orientated, I drew a line through the rest of the holes, which helped aligning the remainder.
I found that the hole centre for the hawse lip was close to the waterline and to maintain the correct distance I had to enlarge the hole upwards (if that makes sense).
The fitting of the mooring port lips was straightforward and for extra detail they are both inside and outside.

With the hull fitted out I decided that a few coats of paint was in order.
For some reason the plan recommends (Humbrol) colour 127, which is 'US' ghost grey. I refuse to use an American colour on a Royal Navy boat, so I have chosen RN Admiralty medium grey 507B, by Lifecolor.
I have used Lifecolor in the past and find it gives an excellent finish with no brush marks. Below the waterline, the good old favourite Halfords red primer in the 'shake and rattle' tin. I plan to mark the waterline with a boot stripe so "you can't see the join".
Having promised to be able to control the anchors I thought I had better investigate the practicalities before going any further with the build.
Why not spend half an hour or so making the anchor windlass as a start? I found this to be a model in itself, which took a couple of days! Very satisfying though.
First, read the instructions. Then assemble the 35 or so parts on the bench, then read the instructions again.
The white metal fittings took some fettling, as usual, but the mouldings were much better than most I have come across. (Jotika tell me that they are tooling up to 3D print the fittings in the future.)
The written instructions missed a few part numbers, but this was compensated for with a full page exploded plan view and a full page drawing of the completed item.
I found it better to dry fit as much as possible to ensure all the bits lined up and the cogs meshed. Once happy, I used superglue.
The pictures show the windlass in the raw, but I'm sure it will look much better with a careful paint job.
When I said "read the instructions again", this was in hindsight, as I am sure you rivet counters will spot my mistake in the completed build. However, if, like me you use the two foot rule, my error in construction should go unnoticed.🤞

Having suddenly remembered that my wife is dragging me off for two weeks in Mauritius next Tuesday, I thought I had better update things.
Construction of the windlass was very satisfying so I thought I would jump the gun (sorry!) and build the 12 pounder.
Another annoying incorrect part number for the gun platform (399 read 361), but the remainder of the mini build went OK. The suggested use of scrap 0.8mm ply as a spacer ensured parallel planking on the gun deck platform and again, the white metal parts required very little fettling.
Instructions say to fix the stanchions in place, then thread the 0.2mm railing wire. I think it would be easier to thread the wire onto the stanchions and then glue them into place. I also found that the vague instruction to leave a gap in the railings on the 'left rear side' for the ladder, required fine tuning to avoid the bottom of the ladder coming up against a cowl vent. Shouldn't have jumped the gun!
Next job was to glue the ply capping rails around the top of the hull. I used superglue which gave a quick fix, together with the usual stuck fingers. However, once sanded and painted the end result was very pleasing.
Supplied are sheets of 'screen printed' deck overlays, which are detailed with planking etc. Instructions say that these decks can be lightly stained, which I initially decided to do. Not a good move! Even a light staining masks a lot of detail. Luckily, I only messed up the foredeck, so a trip to Jotika for a replacement. A chat with John (Jotika) resulted in leaving the decks unstained, which will later be clear lacquered. It seems that the decks were originally screen printed giving much 'heavier' detail which would take a stain. However, the current decks are laser etched so the planking isn't as heavily defined. (More about that later).
Ok, I have been ordered to start packing my case, so more in a few weeks.

If you would like to go to a lovely island with lovely people and lovely weather, then, despite the 12 hour flight, Mauritius is the place! The view from our hotel room should give you some idea.
Back to business. Having further investigated a working anchor winch, I pushed the boat out and spent £60 on a Krick kit. It comes as a flat pack, is easy to assemble and as you can see, it works!(see YouTube link). However, whilst I can successfully raise the anchors when the winch is in situ below decks, I have yet to overcome the friction to 'drop anchor'. This is work in progress, but I have every confidence. Can someone please remind me to do this Before I glue the foredeck in position next time?
I love the fine detail in the kit (including the scale lumps of coal) and I am currently in the process of making bottlescrews. The before and after pictures show the scale and what's involved and I have 24 to make. I found that a magnifier viewer is a great help.
As you can see, the foredeck is taking shape and I am now satisfied with the rail around the 12pdr. However, the instructions are still frustrating, with the 'bulwark stay bases' not being numbered, but identified in the parts list as 'stanchions' and numbered 255.
I have also learnt another nautical name, 'chain sheaves', an integral part of the steering gear. Having identified the component parts from the pack number, they were easy to assemble, though part number 113, which turned out to be a cowl vent base, was thrown in to the list to further confuse and frustrate.
Having said all that, that parts and fittings are of good quality and I am looking forward to making more progress (wife permitting!)

I have decided not to fit the working anchor winch. Having been unable to resolve the 'friction' problem, I suddenly realised that as the hawse hole is so close to the waterline, I would lose the effect in any case. Ah, hindsight!
However, construction progresses with the engine room, steering room and towing gear. Once again, I love the attention to detail, as you can see from the stern steam winch, and engine room telegraph and muzzle loaders on the centre deck.
The inside of the wheelhouse, which will only be visible if the flying bridge is removable, is also full of detail. (Yes, I know the binnacle needs tidying up and Kelvin's Balls need painting in the appropriate colours).
The flying bridge is still under construction, but the lack of a diagram has made the fitting of the cladding difficult, with trialling which bit goes where and which edges to glue to which ends. According to the instructions, the cladding is on a 'screen printed' sheet, which is no longer screen printed but laser etched, I am told by Jotika.
It is also very frustrating when the paper plan, giving part numbers, bears no resemblance to the layout of the sheet itself. (Another item to add to my 'snagging' list for Jotika). Much sanding and filling needs to take place, before the item is worthy of a photograph. I have found that you need to read the instructions three or four times and still be prepared to make mistakes!
However, I am still excited with the build and I am looking forward to more progress now that my Christmas ban of entering the boat shed has been lifted!

Many more (mostly) happy hours in the boat shed and the build still goes well, but with plenty more to do.
I have almost finished the flying bridge, which previously gave much trouble with the cladding. However, with most of the fittings, including racks of belaying pins and other detail, it looks ok, though I'm still picking the superglue from my fingers.
I loved building and fitting out the workbench on the after deck, which contains a vice and a number of spanners.
The large cowl vents are made up of white metal and dowel. Frustratingly, the dowel needed much fettling to fit the white metal base and cowl. I completed the task satisfactorily, but it took a long time.
I have made a start on the foremast, as you can see, the basis of which is dowel and plastic (referred to as alloy in the plans)tube. However, another frustration was that however much fettling I did I was unable to fit the dowel into the tube.
A visit to Jotika found that the dowel was 0.5mm oversize. John replaced it without problem, but I was a somewhat disappointed that I had to make the trip.
It seems that the main jobs remaining are the foremast to complete, the aft mast to construct and the funnels to build, fit and rig.
Ps. The figure you can see is one of the 3D printed ones, but only partly painted - more detail to follow.