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    HMT Resolve by Caldercraft
    by cormorant πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ ( Midshipman)
    πŸ“£










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    7 Posts 33 Comments 0 Photos 43 Likes
    Most recent posts shown first   (Show Oldest First) (Print Booklet)
    πŸ“ Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    11 days ago by cormorant ( Midshipman)
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    Having suddenly remembered that my wife is dragging me off for two weeks in Mauritius next Tuesday, I thought I had better update things.
    Construction of the windlass was very satisfying so I thought I would jump the gun (sorry!) and build the 12 pounder.
    Another annoying incorrect part number for the gun platform (399 read 361), but the remainder of the mini build went OK. The suggested use of scrap 0.8mm ply as a spacer ensured parallel planking on the gun deck platform and again, the white metal parts required very little fettling.
    Instructions say to fix the stanchions in place, then thread the 0.2mm railing wire. I think it would be easier to thread the wire onto the stanchions and then glue them into place. I also found that the vague instruction to leave a gap in the railings on the 'left rear side' for the ladder, required fine tuning to avoid the bottom of the ladder coming up against a cowl vent. Shouldn't have jumped the gun!
    Next job was to glue the ply capping rails around the top of the hull. I used superglue which gave a quick fix, together with the usual stuck fingers. However, once sanded and painted the end result was very pleasing.
    Supplied are sheets of 'screen printed' deck overlays, which are detailed with planking etc. Instructions say that these decks can be lightly stained, which I initially decided to do. Not a good move! Even a light staining masks a lot of detail. Luckily, I only messed up the foredeck, so a trip to Jotika for a replacement. A chat with John (Jotika) resulted in leaving the decks unstained, which will later be clear lacquered. It seems that the decks were originally screen printed giving much 'heavier' detail which would take a stain. However, the current decks are laser etched so the planking isn't as heavily defined. (More about that later).
    Ok, I have been ordered to start packing my case, so more in a few weeks.

    gun
    superglue
    spacer
    sheets
    decks
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    11 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    She is coming together nicely.
    Seeing the winch and gun assemblies now it really looks the part.
    Excellent work.

    It would be interesting when you have finished what the response would be if you notified the kit manufacturer of the numbering issues.!

    I think the two weeks in Mauritius is just what the Doctor ordered.
    I wish you and your wife a really fantastic time.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    11 days ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant)
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    Very crisp detail photo's, but it shows a bit of rush building Cormorant, the top rail on the stanchions looks a little bent, same thing with my Sir Kay, so replaced the kit rail with 0.03 brass wire, and no kinks!😐

    Cheers, Peter
    btw Enjoy your holiday and don't forget the rock!😁
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    11 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    "the top rail on the stanchions looks a little bent" πŸ€”
    I agree Peter πŸ‘
    Looks like rather soft wire!
    I would also have been very tempted to replace it with brass or spring steel (piano wire) so that it holds its shape in the curves.
    Cheers, Doug 😎
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    11 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Very nice build. The windlass looks superb.😊
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    11 days ago by cormorant ( Midshipman)
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    Thanks Martin. The manufacturer, Jotika, is just up the road and I visit quite often for bits and pieces. I have already mentioned the part numbering issues and he, John, has asked for a list when I have worked may way through, to rectify the problem.
    Steve
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    11 days ago by cormorant ( Midshipman)
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    Thanks Peter and Doug.
    I did mention that the instructions said to thread the wire through the stanchions when they had been fixed in place. This required pushing the wire as well as pulling, and it got more difficult the more stanchions that were 'wired', causing the kinks.
    My suggestion that the stanchions were 'wired' before fixing in place was in hindsight. I may well remove them and start again.
    Hope this makes sense.
    Steve
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    11 days ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant)
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    It's much easier to thread the stanchions after they have been fixed Steve, if you use brass wire, or as Doug suggested, piano wire, I am sure you will not have any problems threading through the fixed stanchions.😐


    Cheers, Pete
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    11 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Yep that makes sense Steve, but I still wouldn't do it that way with that wire!
    It'll most likely kink while you're trying to fix the stanchions and the remainder are flopping about the shop!☹️
    Had similar experience using tinned copper wire on my 1/72nd scale H class destroyer😭 Eventually I sequentially fixed and pushed/pulled the wire through stanchion by stanchion rather than waiting until they were all fixed.
    Periodically I had to stretch the wire between two pairs of pliers to de-kink it, which was a pain in the nether-lands!πŸ€”
    Took a while on a 1.35 metre deck πŸ€” But I cheated by making the main deck in two sections; midships so I could service batteries, distribution board, ESC, smoker and stern section to get access to motors, rudder and auxiliary sound and switching modules. B and X gun platforms were a bit tricky too!
    Apart from 'kinky' railing - so far so good SteveπŸ‘
    Cheers, Doug 😎
    PS and BTW, having gone to all that trouble threading metres of wire round the railings - I used them as the + and - supply rails for bow and mast lights! πŸ˜‰ 3V 'rice grain' bulbs in those days. Will be replaced with LEDs during current refit.

    pliers
    smoker
    batteries
    LEDs
    gun platforms
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
    11 days ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant)
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    Like the idea of using the rails Doug, as supply for the bow and masts lightsπŸ‘


    Cheers, Pete
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    πŸ“ Anchor Windlass
    20 days ago by cormorant ( Midshipman)
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    With the hull fitted out I decided that a few coats of paint was in order.
    For some reason the plan recommends (Humbrol) colour 127, which is 'US' ghost grey. I refuse to use an American colour on a Royal Navy boat, so I have chosen RN Admiralty medium grey 507B, by Lifecolor.
    I have used Lifecolor in the past and find it gives an excellent finish with no brush marks. Below the waterline, the good old favourite Halfords red primer in the 'shake and rattle' tin. I plan to mark the waterline with a boot stripe so "you can't see the join".
    Having promised to be able to control the anchors I thought I had better investigate the practicalities before going any further with the build.
    Why not spend half an hour or so making the anchor windlass as a start? I found this to be a model in itself, which took a couple of days! Very satisfying though.
    First, read the instructions. Then assemble the 35 or so parts on the bench, then read the instructions again.
    The white metal fittings took some fettling, as usual, but the mouldings were much better than most I have come across. (Jotika tell me that they are tooling up to 3D print the fittings in the future.)
    The written instructions missed a few part numbers, but this was compensated for with a full page exploded plan view and a full page drawing of the completed item.
    I found it better to dry fit as much as possible to ensure all the bits lined up and the cogs meshed. Once happy, I used superglue.
    The pictures show the windlass in the raw, but I'm sure it will look much better with a careful paint job.
    When I said "read the instructions again", this was in hindsight, as I am sure you rivet counters will spot my mistake in the completed build. However, if, like me you use the two foot rule, my error in construction should go unnoticed.🀞

    boat
    superglue
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Anchor Windlass
    20 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Cormorant,
    That looks quite a complicated winch.
    You only looked at the instructions again just to see were the swear words had to be inserted LOL!!

    Martin555.
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    πŸ“ Forecastle Bulwarks and Hull Fittings
    25 days ago by cormorant ( Midshipman)
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    Now for the good bits! This is part of a build which I really enjoy, when the boat starts to take shape. With 750 white metal parts there should be plenty of detail.
    With the main sub decks in place, I fitted the bulkhead facias, together with the extended bulkhead. The parts are pre cut to take the white metal portholes and watertight doors, which I glued in with superglue. The holes needed enlarging to allow the portholes to fit correctly. (Irritating).
    Using the screen printed sub foredeck overlay as a guide, I drew around the curve to give the position of the breakwater. The breakwater is made of ply and to achieve the curve, I soaked it in water for 10 minutes which made it supple enough to follow the line I had drawn. To get a quick and secure fix I used superglue.
    Cutting the gaps in the forecastle bulkhead down to deck level was straightforward, but if you use a dremel cutting disc, don't get over enthusiastic and cut into things you shouldn't!
    The last bit of this section is fitting the portholes, ash shute doors, hawse lips and and mooring port lips. All these are white metal and the hole centres are marked on the hull. Having used a small drill to start the holes off, I enlarge them with a reamer to prevent the gel coat cracking.
    The portholes on the hull have rigoles (eyebrows) and when I have fitted these in the past, I have always got some of them on the scunt (aka crooked). Having taken great care to get the first one correctly orientated, I drew a line through the rest of the holes, which helped aligning the remainder.
    I found that the hole centre for the hawse lip was close to the waterline and to maintain the correct distance I had to enlarge the hole upwards (if that makes sense).
    The fitting of the mooring port lips was straightforward and for extra detail they are both inside and outside.

    boat
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Forecastle Bulwarks and Hull Fittings
    25 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Nice progress Cormorant,
    I agree with you, when you start with some of the detail work that is when you seem to gain more enthusiasm for the project.
    keep it up.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Forecastle Bulwarks and Hull Fittings
    25 days ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant)
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    Nice bit of detail work Cormorant and good close up photographyπŸ‘, With what do you make your rigoles with? have used solder before now, but yours looks very good😊

    Cheers, Peter
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Forecastle Bulwarks and Hull Fittings
    25 days ago by cormorant ( Midshipman)
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    The rigoles came as complete portholes in the white metal fittings.
    However, many years ago I built one of Deans Marine kits, HMS Verulam, a 1/96 scale destroyer. Included in the kit were lengths of thin plastic sprue with the instruction to wind the sprue tightly around a pencil. Remove the resulting 'sprue coil' from the pencil and cut it lengthways with a small pair of scissors.
    The semi circular pieces created by the cutting made quite acceptable rigoles.
    Steve

    pencil
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Forecastle Bulwarks and Hull Fittings
    24 days ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant)
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    Many thanks Cormorant for that tip, will use the idea on my next ship HMS Kelly.
    btw, no such luck on this Deans boat, no extra sprue...☹️

    Cheers, Peter

    boat
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Forecastle Bulwarks and Hull Fittings
    24 days ago by cormorant ( Midshipman)
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    Hi Peter. If I remember correctly, Ron Dean didn't supply enough, or enough brass railing, so I had to ring up for some more (before the days of the internet!).
    That was 30 or so years ago, just after he had started, but I don't think he has got much better. I steer clear of him now.
    You might have a look here
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-White-ABS-Plastic-Rod-Round-So...

    Steve
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-White-ABS-Plastic-Rod-Round-Solid-Bar-DIY-Model-Material-250mmx1-2-3-4-5-6mm/183938969282?_
    πŸ”—

    Peter.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Forecastle Bulwarks and Hull Fittings
    24 days ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks for the info Steve. I know what you mean about Ron Dean, have got a USS KIDD that I bought from a good friend, upon building it, I noticed a starboard propeller grill missing, I asked Ron who was going to the show at Blackpool, to bring one, when I asked him, he said he had forgotten and to give him a call, but now will have to pay postage, what a Plonker!

    Cheers, Peter

    propeller grill
    Plonker
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    πŸ“ Fitting sub decks and Sea Trials
    27 days ago by cormorant ( Midshipman)
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    The fore sub-deck is glued onto the bulkhead assembly, prior to fixing it into the hull. This is a straightforward operation, but some sanding of the sub deck is needed, particularly around the bow. With short strips of square balsa glued onto the hull sides between the deck beams, to support the edges of the foredeck, the whole unit was again dry fitted.
    Happy with the dry fit and armed with various clamps and clothes pegs, I glued the assembly into place. (Once again, apologies for the lack of photos as I did this before deciding on doing the blog).
    Before fitting the aft sub-deck, I cut out an opening to get to the tiller if necessary. The opening will be disguised later in the build.

    Sea Trials.
    I decided on lead acid batteries, as the weight would go a long way towards ballasting - she sits very low in the water. Jotika advised 60mm 4 bladed props, which were duly fitted.
    As I have already said, I use a Taranis radio and this has the advantage of being able to set up a differential drive between the motors and rudder in the transmitter. As you can see on the video, she turns in her own length.
    You will also see from the video the 'deck cargo', or cardboard box full of the white metal fittings. This gave me a better idea of how much more ballast I would require for the finished model.
    I did have a scary moment when the 'deck cargo' shifted and she took on an alarming list to port! I thought I would be a contender for the 'Titanic Award', presented annually by our club for the best sinking. However, with nerves of steel, I navigated her safely back to the slipway.
    I was most pleased with the way she handled and moved through the water. The motors and props supply more than enough power and she will require very little more ballasting.
    HMT Resolve Sea Trials
    ▢️

    motors
    lead acid batteries
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Fitting sub decks and Sea Trials
    27 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Cormorant,
    You are a brave man doing some sea trials before basin trials.LOL!
    Looks good on the water.
    keep the log coming you are doing a great job.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Fitting sub decks and Sea Trials
    27 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    Im amaised at sea trials so soon during the build, I am 14 monthes into my build and its a million miles from sea trials !
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Fitting sub decks and Sea Trials
    27 days ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant)
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    Your certainly a quick builder cormorant, but it looks stable on the water, and that's all that matters at this
    moment of the build, keep up the excellent work.πŸ‘

    Cheers, Peter
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Fitting sub decks and Sea Trials
    27 days ago by figtree7nts ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Steve,

    Your doing a great job on your Resolve!πŸ‘

    Cheers, Ed
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Fitting sub decks and Sea Trials
    26 days ago by cormorant ( Midshipman)
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    The problem is, once I start a build I get obsessed and spend much too much time in the workshop (according to my wife!).
    The build and the blog have now 'caught up', so there will be more photos.
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    πŸ“ Bulkheads and motor fit.
    28 days ago by cormorant ( Midshipman)
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    And it was all going so well! If all else fails, read the instructions and look carefully at the drawings.
    Having removed deck camber beams, mid deck bulkheads and longitudinal stringers from the CNC sheets, I glued the assembly together and taped it to a flat surface to dry, as per the instructions. However, as you can see from the two magnified sections in picture 1, the deck camber beams and stringers are not flush. I only became aware of this after glueing the assembly into the hull and trying to dry fit the aft deck.
    Once again, the trusty Dremel with cutting disc attached came into its own and I managed to rectify the problem - not without difficulty.
    Before glueing the bulkhead assembly into place I fitted the motors. As I have already mentioned, with the propshafts parallel to the hull, there is very little clearance for the motors. However, with the offset shafts on the 2.5:1 540 geared motors, this was not a problem.
    I used vac formed plastic 'cradle' motor mounts and standard universal couplings.
    I am now a great believer in using proprietary silicone sealant to fix the motors onto the mounts. This not only cushions vibration but allows tweaking of the final line up, which I do by eye. Before the sealant sets, I run the motors and further tweak to get as little vibration as possible. See pic 4.
    With motors in place it was time to fix the bulkhead assembly into the hull. Instructions suggest using slow cure epoxy, but I used Gorilla glue, which does the job just as well, without the trouble of mixing. Included in the bulkhead assembly is the servo tray for the rudder and with that connected and the power plant -two 12v 7ah lead acid batteries - in place, sea trials were fast approaching.

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    πŸ’¬ Re: Bulkheads and motor fit.
    28 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    HI Cormorant,
    I know this is nothing to do with your build but how did you do the highlighting with a magnifier on your photos ?
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Bulkheads and motor fit.
    28 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    "And it was all going so well! If all else fails, read the instructions and look carefully at the drawings."
    I think this is a man thing according to my wife, this sometimes happens when I've assembled IKEA furniture.
    PS also interested in Magnifier

    furniture
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Bulkheads and motor fit.
    27 days ago by cormorant ( Midshipman)
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    Hi Martin
    I am an Apple user and I open photos with an inbuilt bit of software called Preview. The magnifier is one of the included editing tools. I only discovered it the other day!

    software
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    πŸ“ The Start
    29 days ago by cormorant ( Midshipman)
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    (Apologies for the lack of detailed photos at this stage.)

    A 44 page instruction manual, three full sized scale drawings and a double sided A4 sheet of photographs should give me enough guidance.
    Construction starts with making the stand. However, I was soon to find that 8.5mm ply, although fine for displaying the boat without ballast, is useless when the model is in sea going trim. A stand from 20mm softwood solved the problem.
    The next job was to remove excess (approx 10mm) grp from the top of the hull down to a marked line, which gives the correct bulwark height. I found it advantageous to highlight the line with masking tape. My trusty Dremel took off most of the excess followed by careful sanding with a block.
    The kit does not come with motors or props (due to the steam or electric option), but it does come with prop shafts. The centre of the holes are marked on the hull and as with all holes drilled in grp, I started off with a small drill and enlarged the hole with a round file to prevent the gel coat cracking.
    Lining up and positioning the prop shafts parallel to the hull is simplified with the A frames. I then 'tacked' the shafts into the hull with superglue, which allowed any final tweaking, before securing them with Isopon P40 (this is the one with short strands of fibre and seems to give a stronger fixing than the smooth P38).
    Drilling and fitting the rudder is straightforward. Two rudders are supplied, an exact scale one with skeg and pintles and a more robust one, which is recommended for "frequent radio control use". I fitted the second one.
    So far so good!

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    πŸ’¬ Re: The Start
    29 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Cormorant,

    That is good that you were supplied with the two types of rudder.

    What glue did you use to attach the white metal "A frames" to the GRP hull, and did you use a securing pin through the hull and "A frame".

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: The Start
    29 days ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant)
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    Never used the Isopon P40, what's it sand like Cormorant, compared to the P38 which I normally use.
    btw, looking good😬

    Cheers, Peter (Rooky)
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    πŸ’¬ Re: The Start
    29 days ago by cormorant ( Midshipman)
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    Hi Martin
    There is a notch at bottom of the A frame which is glued into a slot between the keel and the rudder skeg. (Magnified in the picture)
    The top of the A frame is glued directly onto the hull and further supported with the rectangular collar. (Red circled in the picture).
    The A frames are not load bearing as the prop tubes are firmly secured in the hull with Isopon.
    I used epoxy resin to attached the A frames, as recommended in the instructions.
    Hope this helps.
    Steve

    frames
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    πŸ’¬ Re: The Start
    29 days ago by cormorant ( Midshipman)
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    Hi Peter
    I only used the P40 for holding the prop tubes in the hull, as I was informed that the glass strands in it would give a more secure fix. No sanding required and I don't think the texture would lend itself to that.
    I still use the P38 for filling.
    Steve
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    πŸ“ HMT Resolve by Caldercraft
    30 days ago by cormorant ( Midshipman)
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    Having already started the build, Martin555 suggested I do a build log. Never done one before so here goes.
    First impressions of the kit - very comprehensive and parts of good quality, as I would expect from the manufacturers, Jotika.
    However, I soon found that quite a few parts had been numbered incorrectly, so be careful!
    Two versions can be built, civilian and Royal Navy. Being a keen military modeller, there was no contest.
    My first decision was the power plant. Steam far too expensive and complicated, so I decided on electric.
    Recommended were 900 brushless motors which are very big lumps. Consultation with Jotika resulted in 540 2.5:1 geared motors which had the added advantage of lower shafts, making it easier to connect the prop shafts, which are parallel to the hull.
    60mm 4 bladed props completed the drive train, which as you will see later from the sea trials proved very effective.

    versions
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    πŸ’¬ Re: HMT Resolve by Caldercraft
    30 days ago by Martin555 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Cormorant,
    A good start to your build log.
    Thank you for mentioning about the numbering issues
    it seems a common thing with kits these days.
    That takes us back to the usual question "quality control"?

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: HMT Resolve by Caldercraft
    30 days ago by mturpin013 ( Lieutenant)
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    That looks an interesting model, only one comment on doing a build log -plenty of detail, then even more detail, followed by some detail,
    best of luck with the build I look forward to following
    Michael 😊
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    πŸ’¬ Re: HMT Resolve by Caldercraft
    30 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Not forgetting the details of the detailing πŸ˜‰
    😎
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    πŸ’¬ Re: HMT Resolve by Caldercraft
    30 days ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant)
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    I believe what most of us on this site would like to see is plenty of pictures of your build,πŸ‘ we like to see how you address problems! if any occur, (hopin not🀞) As Doug, Martin and Michael said, plenty of details if possible.


    Peter (Rooky)
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    πŸ’¬ Re: HMT Resolve by Caldercraft
    29 days ago by cormorant ( Midshipman)
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    Thanks for that. No problems with the build as far as it goes in the blog (so far so good!), but watch this space!⚑
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