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    18

















    Followers
    Aerokits 1962 34.5" RAF Crash Tender rebuild, including interior.
    by EdH ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
    ๐Ÿ“ฃ










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    18 Posts 151 Comments 0 Photos 146 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ The stand
    3 days ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    The stand. I enjoy designing them differently for every model, attaching in 4, 3 or even 2 places! They have to hold the model securely, be comfortable to lift and carry, yet appear elegantly simple! Made this one in Poplar wood, but instead of clear coating it as normal, I used a light grey/green colored stain as there is so much grey in this model. Being a stain, the wood still shows through. A light spray of clear coat protects it.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The stand
    3 days ago by Nerys ( Captain)
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    Nice well designed and thought out stand, perhaps I'll rethink the one I made for my crash tender.

    Nerys
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The stand
    2 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Very nice stand. Do you take orders for dining room table and chairs?๐Ÿ˜
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The stand
    2 days ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Sorry Peter, only for family! Ed ๐Ÿ˜€
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    ๐Ÿ“ Homemade Hawsepipe and Fairleads
    6 days ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    The set of accessories for the RAF Crash Tender did not include a hawsepipe for the anchor chain and was missing two aft fairleads. I made a 90 degree bend in some brass pipe, making some aggressive V cuts on the inside, filling in gaps with epoxy and sanding to shape. The base was made by adding two additional sleeves, then cutting, leaving a lip. Painted, then distressed with lacquer. Now all I need 3" of fine chain but at this time it's not worth visiting the stores or ordering such a small amount online. The two aft fairleads I made in wood and painted them the same way. I think the accessory set meant me to use cleats aft instead, but the original had cleats further forward and fairleads aft!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Homemade Hawsepipe and Fairleads
    5 days ago by Martin555 ( Vice Admiral)
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    Nice work Ed.
    Altho tricky to do you get more satisfaction knowing that you made it yourself.
    Well done.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Homemade Hawsepipe and Fairleads
    5 days ago by Graham93 ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi Ed,

    Looking good.

    I had to buy more chain than I needed for my Crash Tender, so if you want 3" just send me your address in a PM and I'll post you a length.

    regards Graham93
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Homemade Hawsepipe and Fairleads
    5 days ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Graham, that's very kind, but we live in the US, so postage would be more than if we were in the UK and I'm not sure how I could get funds to you! Hope you are fairing ok in these crazy times. Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Homemade Hawsepipe and Fairleads
    5 days ago by Graham93 ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi Ed,

    Didnโ€™t realise you were in the US - missed the tiny flag at the top of the page!

    The postage cost is minimal, and I wasnโ€™t expecting any funds, so the offer still stands. It will take a while to get to you though.

    I can class the walk to the Post box as my permittted once a day โ€˜exerciseโ€™ in these difficult times.
    Graham93
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Homemade Hawsepipe and Fairleads
    5 days ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Graham, this really is incredibly kind. I will PM you with the info. Thank you. Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Homemade Hawsepipe and Fairleads
    4 days ago by Graham93 ( Warrant Officer)
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    Ed,

    I think at times like this, anything we can do to help one another is worthwhile. I know how annoying it is when you just need a little bit of something and it is not worth the carriage charges to order it, and we are under restrictions which mean you can't get to the store for it. Most stores in the UK are now shut for visitors unless you need food or medication.

    graham93
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    ๐Ÿ“ Painting and enhancing fittings
    9 days ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Painted the set of soft metal fittings (still made 58 years after my Dad and I built this model, though quality has slipped a bit). The lifebelt was virtually a plain metal ring, so to make it more realistic (like others on this site), I epoxied a rope around it, using CA glue to make the 90 degree bends rigid. I wanted to show the bindings more realistically, but wanted to paint the threads before mounting them, so instead of winding them on directly, I made a frame, wound fine cotton around it, soaked the threads in CA glue and painted them. When dry, I cut the cotton into lengths, bent them around the lifebelt and glued.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting and enhancing fittings
    9 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Nicely done. They all look very good.๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting and enhancing fittings
    9 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Neat Ed๐Ÿ‘
    Like the way you've 'caught' all that stuff on fishing poles!!๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting and enhancing fittings
    9 days ago by Georgeconna ( Leading Seaman)
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    Just wandering through the forum now!

    Wow that Hull came up really Fantastic
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting and enhancing fittings
    9 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Re "Wow that Hull came up really Fantastic "
    George,
    Check out my Sea Scout restoration blog as well for blow by blow hull restoration!
    https://model-boats.com/blogs/28209#44512
    Just one of many tutorials on restoring the old 'Woodies' on this site ๐Ÿ˜Š
    Happy wandering๐Ÿ‘
    (Thinks, what was that song about a Happy Wanderer? Senior memory๐Ÿ™„)
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    https://model-boats.com/blogs/28209#44512
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ“ Hull preparation and painting
    12 days ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I've been working on the hull for the last couple of weeks. Considering how rough it was, it came out ok. Leaks, holes and strength issues were already taken care of from the inside with fiberglass and resin, so glass work on the outside was largely cosmetic. Added a strake along the chine, which was pretty banged up. Did three coats of brown primer, the first sanded almost all off, then black topsides. Used a knife mounted in a block to scribe the waterline, then masked and painted the antifouling. Added transfers. After reading some of these blogs, I intend to coat the whole hull in matte clear coat, which I haven't done in the past, but I also I haven't had to use transfers. The white waterline is put on with an iron at 300 degrees.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hull preparation and painting
    12 days ago by robbob ( Captain)
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    Hi Ed.
    That's quite a transformation!
    It's a good Idea to clearcoat the hull because it will protect the transfers, gloss is fine for above the waterline and matt to cover the anti-fouling.
    I had a lot of problems with the white waterline on mine, can you give us more details on you 'iron on' solution please?.
    Great work ๐Ÿ‘.
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hull preparation and painting
    12 days ago by pmdent ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Nice job Ed - one or two steps ahead of me.....I am also interested in what you mean by "ironing" transfer - waterline anyway....don't they just stick with the self adhesive ?Peter
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hull preparation and painting
    12 days ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Rob and Peter, I have used Ultrastripe, which is part of Hanger 9โ€™s UltraCote system, on all boats for some years. We live on a tidal estuary so these boats have spent plenty of time in salt water and one has never come off yet! I have never clear coated my hulls, but see the need with these transfers. UltraCote is used to cover model plane frames and the iron shrinks the plastic but it also seems to do something to the adhesive. It seems to be made in Germany, probably under a different name. Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hull preparation and painting
    12 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Yes Ed, it is made in Germany as the label says.
    I used it on my little Simprop Zaunkรถnig (Wren) shortly after I moved to Munich.
    That looks like a nifty tool you've used there. Whereja get it?
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž

    "Ultracote
    From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
    Ultracote is a commercially available light-weight plastic shrink-wrap film available in various color schemes with an adhesive on one side, used to cover and form the surfaces of a model aircraft. The material is cut to size and applied to the aircraft surfaces using a hobby iron or heat gun. This product is also sometimes referred to as Oracover in Europe (also Profilm in United Kingdom).

    Ultracote is distributed in the United States and Canada by http://www.horizonhobby.com. Ultracote is not manufactured by Horizon. It is a product manufactured with the trade name Oracover in Europe and manufactured by Lanitz-Prena Folien Factory GmbH http://buegelfolie.de/home.jsp?root_node_id=0&node_id=200529... Horizon Hobby Distributors have exclusive distribution rights from the manufacturer for Oracover to be sold as Ultracote in the US and Canada. At one time Ultracote was sold in the United States as Carl Goldberg Ultracote."
    http://www.horizonhobby.com.
    ๐Ÿ”—
    http://buegelfolie.de/home.jsp?root_node_id=0&node_id=2005291153607563158
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hull preparation and painting
    12 days ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Doug, the iron is from Horizon Hobby and is part of the Hanger 9 series of products, though who knows who actually makes it. Iโ€™ve tried a couple in my days of building planes and like the way it stays at a pretty steady temperature, which of course can be adjusted. It also can take cloth โ€˜glovesโ€™ that make it less aggressive when smoothing out film. Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hull preparation and painting
    12 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Thanks Ed๐Ÿ‘
    I'll look out for that.
    Up to now I've used a little travelling iron.
    Only had two temperatures; Hot and ... cold!๐Ÿค”
    Meant I had to work FAST!
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hull preparation and painting
    12 days ago by Martin555 ( Vice Admiral)
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    Wow what a difference.
    Looks great.
    Keep up the good work.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hull preparation and painting
    12 days ago by robbob ( Captain)
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    Hi Ed.
    I've never heard of the stuff, but then I was only an aeromodeller (failed) for a short while in my youth.
    Does the heat from the iron not affect the paint when you apply it?
    How well does it cope where the waterline crosses the chine?

    Perhaps a close-up photo or two of that area would help answer my questions.

    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hull preparation and painting
    12 days ago by peterd ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Thanks for the photos and the great results you are getting. I have just begun stripping back my Commander. Same size and similar condition, though the interior still requires my attention. It will be interesting to see it in the water
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hull preparation and painting
    12 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    That really does look a lot better. Good job.๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hull preparation and painting
    11 days ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Rob, the tip of the iron not only is tapered but also bends up, so itโ€™s possible to touch only a very small area against the item if required. I used 1/8โ€ tape and the paint didnโ€™t suffer. I didnโ€™t leave it touching for very long though (!) and quickly pressed it down with a clean cloth. If I did it again I would probably use thee pieces across the chine instead of one continuous piece. It stuck fine, but I probably could have made it look a bit better. Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hull preparation and painting
    11 days ago by Graham93 ( Warrant Officer)
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    I used a similar iron to attach the white waterline tape on my Crash Tender. It stuck well and hasnโ€™t shown any sign of lifting after 6 months of regular sailing.
    Graham93
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    ๐Ÿ“ Crane for the RAF Crash Tender
    16 days ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Made the crane for loading cargo and presumably unfortunate ditched airmen. Made the attachment for both sides in the center cockpit, but only one works. The crane does swivel. I used brass sheet and rectangular brass pipe cut along one edge, soldered together. The winch handle and end pulley were both made from servo linkage ends. One side was removed and the other bent to make the winch handle and two washers made the pulley block. Painted it with oil based grey metallic, a fine spray of black and finally graphite dust lacquer (breaking all the rules) to distress it. It's wider and not as curved as the original, but gives the idea. Also made the bow bollard from brass tubing (rectangular and round). Anchored it solidly, deep into the bow section, in case someday a grandchild uses it for its intended purpose!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Crane for the RAF Crash Tender
    16 days ago by Martin555 ( Vice Admiral)
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    Nice work Ed, Keep it up.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Crane for the RAF Crash Tender
    16 days ago by robbob ( Captain)
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    Hi Ed.
    Nice piece of brass work there.
    I think I recognise a bit of my davit in the first 'photo ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜
    I hope my blog is helpful.
    Robbob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Crane for the RAF Crash Tender
    16 days ago by mturpin013 ( Commander)
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    Commitment Or what ๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Crane for the RAF Crash Tender
    16 days ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Yes Robbob! Your blog has been quite the inspiration for several things Iโ€™ve done in this project. Thanks. Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Crane for the RAF Crash Tender
    16 days ago by Nerys ( Captain)
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    That's great for those capable of doing that sort of metal work. I'm not. I bought the crane kit from Slec and I'm afraid I was very disappointed with it, perhaps it was my effort at putting it together, but I decided not to use it in the end.

    Nerys
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Crane for the RAF Crash Tender
    16 days ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Excellent bit of soldering there Ed, would like to know what solder you use, and iron wattage, if possible.๐Ÿ˜Š

    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Crane for the RAF Crash Tender
    16 days ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Nerys, after buying the tow hook and being disappointed to the point of not using it (except for the hook), I looked at pictures of the crane kit and felt it was worth trying to create something better. You might be surprised how easy this was to make. True it doesn't have the nice curve of the real thing, but it was easier to build this way. It's amazing what you can do with bits lying around the bench. The two servo linkage ends made a winch handle and the block assembly (the handle part of the winch is the threaded part of the linkage bent at 90 degrees, if it's not clear how it worked). Likewise the bollard in the kit wasn't great and this was a simple, but more realistic solution. Best. Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Crane for the RAF Crash Tender
    16 days ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Pete, with brass pieces I tend to be a heavy hitter! I use a torch with very hot MAPP gas, heating the whole piece very quickly, then melting the regular flux cored solder along the whole length. Because every part was so hot, the solder melted away evenly into the sides. I didn't have to turn it over to do the other side and as you can see in the picture taken while it was still hot, there was very little to clean up. Best. Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Crane for the RAF Crash Tender
    16 days ago by Nerys ( Captain)
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    EdH, I did likewise with the hook, just used the hook part. As far as the crane is concerned, I will have another go at it. Have you read the post about 3D pens and what could be done with one?. I was inspired to order one and after initial learning how to use it, one of my first projects will be a crane for the crash tender. If that fails, I'll find a few bits of brass and ask Alice to use her excellent soldering skills to make one up.

    All the best, Nerys
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Crane for the RAF Crash Tender
    16 days ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Nerys, I'm fascinated by what people do with 3D pens and printing and realize it takes an enormous amount of time and skill, but I shy away from it for myself. I love the detailed 3D pieces some members bring to the meetings of the local modeling club I belong to. Likewise I personally get more pleasure building from scratch, using a (sometimes completely) different building method for each project and trying to figure out how I can engineer it, but I have such admiration for the museum level quality people can bring their projects to, however they start! Ed
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    ๐Ÿ“ Fire Hoses
    21 days ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Tackled the two hoses in the aft cockpit. Don't have a metal lathe (but would love one) so can't produce the beautiful fittings seen on some of these pages and had to improvise! I wanted to show the ribs in the flexible hose, so cut two lengths of flexible wire from an old auger used for unblocking drains and covered it with heat shrink tubing. A heat gun shrank the tubing showing the ribs nicely. Threaded them with solid wire to keep the shape. The filters were for a chain saw, the other end connectors were from brass furniture fittings, as was the wall mounted connector. The handles for the connectors were servo arms cut down. The other brass fittings were drilled through and very fine brass tubing fitted. The fittings were all painted in 'bronze' enamel.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Hoses
    21 days ago by mturpin013 ( Commander)
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    Nicely done, I always look for things that may be used in different ways to that of their intended use.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Hoses
    21 days ago by Martin555 ( Vice Admiral)
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    Hi Ed,
    Like you i don't have all of the tools for make things, so i do the best i can.
    I think you have done a great job on the hoses and the use of the bits and pieces to make it.
    It is surprising what can be achieved with a little thought.
    Well done.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Hoses
    20 days ago by jbkiwi ( Commodore)
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    Very clever thinking! They look spot on.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Different way to make wood grating
    29 days ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Built wood grates for the top of the foam tanks, as a couple of other people building this boat have done on this site. Couldn't find drawings confirming this but one photo does possibly imply something there and that's good enough for me! Instead of slotting planks as Iโ€™ve done in the past, I glued 1/8โ€ square lengths of Bass wood together, using blanks at both ends to make openings in the correct places. I then sliced a number of 1/8โ€ cross sections, discarding the ends, to make a series of โ€˜wafersโ€™ that can seamlessly fit together to make any size and shaped grate. Once assembled and edging attached, I sanded both grates down to 1/16โ€ thick for realism. This system worked well and I think I would do it again.
    Shaped and glued the two step ladders together using four clamps. The cockpit can be lifted out as one unit, to access the rudder and battery.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Different way to make wood grating
    29 days ago by Martin555 ( Vice Admiral)
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    Hi Ed,
    I bet you were glad to finish those Grating.
    Very well done.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Different way to make wood grating
    28 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Now that's novel Ed๐Ÿ‘
    Much better than trying to find a square drill bit ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿคฃ
    Might have a go at that for my U25 and HMS Hotspur bridge decks.
    Both 1/72 so I s'pose I'll have to use 1/16th or 1mm wood ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    Now where's my magnifying glass ....
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Different way to make wood grating
    28 days ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Doug, it was far easier than slotting everything as I used to, and went much more quickly. If you are thinking of 1/16, this would be a much easier method. Once you clamp the solid ends, everything seems to sort its self out! Just make sure you end up with alternate planks and spaces in both directions, so the wafers fit together in both directions. Note, in my case I had to have spaces on both sides in one direction as the wafer was already the correct width for the bench. Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Different way to make wood grating
    28 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Thanks for the tips Ed,
    I prefer waffles to wafers meself๐Ÿ˜‹but I see where you're coming from๐Ÿ‘
    Although, at 1/72 I'll probably have to sand them back to wafer thin!!
    I'll definitely give that a go though.
    Could be very therapeutic when other projects or Brexit are winding me up!๐Ÿ˜ 
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ“ Starting aft cockpit
    1 month ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Always try to have easy access to all necessary switches to run the boat, so the forward bridge deck, which supports the towing hook, unsnaps for light and receiver switches and the safety battery disconnect. The whole aft cockpit lifts out for access to the rudder and battery. The servo is forward, beside the motor. The floor hatch was defined by cutting partway into the ply floor. The handles were tiny slivers of wood across partly drilled holes. Green primer, brown textured paint for the nonskid. Everything will have a final top coat of grey.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Engine room cabin top
    1 month ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Completed the cabin top of the RAF Crash Tender's engine room. As before, green primer, brown textured non-skid, then matte clamshell white topcoat. The two hatches open to give a restricted view of the 'engines'. They can stay open or snap closed. The tiny hinges are normally used for the flaps on larger model aircraft. The rod for the netting rails is actually brass welding rod which was just the right diameter.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Engine room cabin top
    1 month ago by Martin555 ( Vice Admiral)
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    Nice work Ed,

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Engine room cabin top
    1 month ago by pmdent ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Ed, I have just received my fittings kit from SLEC. I have a query re the ventilation cowls or " dorades". The SLEC pieces have a locating lug but if you install only to this depth - the overall height of the cowl is way bigger than the looks in actual tender photographs. I was thinking of installing them through a hole dia to match the actual cowl stem and so locate them lower and match photos more.....had you had any thought / observations about this?
    Peter
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Engine room cabin top
    1 month ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Peter, I agree the cowls in the kit seem a little higher than some photographs imply, but not by much. When my father and I built this originally, we drilled holes for the lugs and mounted them flush with the deck, as I think they intended. I will do the same with the refit. At first I thought of mounting them on small raised blocks, but decided against for the same reason. Did you get the layout of where they are supposed to go? The smaller ones are in front. My kit was short the two aft fairleads, but I can make them. I think they mean you to put the posts all the way aft. Not everything in the kit is exactly accurate. There's also the question whether the cowls should face forward or aft. I think I will follow the trend and face them forward as they are prettier this way, but in my sailing days they always faced aft as the airflow went from the companionway forward through the cabin and exited through the cowls. Some of the original pictures also show this. I also bought the tow hook, which was a bit on the basic side and will involve some modification! Based on this, the crane will be scratch built! I am however very thankful and still marvel, that the exact same basic kit is still available for this boat 58 years later! Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Engine room cabin top
    29 days ago by pmdent ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Ed, thanks for your thoughts and layout plan. Re front or aft facing - in practice ventilation cowls or dorade cowls are often rotatable 360 deg - so one can either encourage air flow or reduce it especially if bashing into a head seaway to limit water ingress below ! so I don't think it matters water you commit to on the model. Still not sure whether to rebate by cowls a bit deeper than the lug......will see how it looks in situ on the model before committing....I agree it is amazing you can still pick up bits for these kits so many decades later !.
    Cheers Peter
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Engine room cabin top
    29 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    "in practice ventilation cowls or dorade cowls are often rotatable 360 deg"
    Exactamente Peter, ๐Ÿ‘ I would guess always on these small fast boats.
    You only have to look at the many photos of these boats on the WWW to see them in various positions pointing forward or aft. Some samples attached.
    Generally it seems that the forward ventilators mostly face forward and the aft ventilators towards the stern. Logical for a good through flow. As you say, the fwd vents would be turned round if belting into a seaway, can be seen in some of the photos.
    Odd, in a least one photo no cowls are visible at all!?
    So once again-
    You pays yer money and takes yer choice!
    As Willy Shakespeare would say 'Much ado about nothing'? ๐Ÿ˜
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    PS Funny, I always thought that dorade was an Asian fish!? ๐Ÿ˜‰
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Engine room cabin top
    29 days ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    On picture seven Doug, what colour ensign is No3
    flying, it looks to be BLUE, but of course black and white photo's can be fooling.๐Ÿ˜


    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Engine room cabin top
    29 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Pete,
    I strongly suspect that that photo was taken during 93's yard trials before she was handed over.
    So that might be a red merchant ensign.
    Can't see how the light RAF blue would show up so dark in any light when the cabins look so bright, even in a B/W photo!
    Same for numbers 5 and 12, looks like yard personnel operating the monitors as well.
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Engine room cabin top
    29 days ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    You could be right Doug, also notice on piccy 12,
    the port boat hook is missing, but the holders are there.๐Ÿ˜


    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Engine room cabin top
    29 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    You're right Pete๐Ÿ‘ Beady eyes ๐Ÿค“๐Ÿ˜‰
    It's missing in pics 5 and 7 as well.
    Which makes me even more certain that these pics are from the same trials day and the boat was still property of the yard.
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ“ Forward cabin tops done
    1 month ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Forward cabin tops done. Green primer, brown textured paint for the non-skid, then matte clamshell topcoat (essentially white with a touch of grey). The hatch slides open to show a bit more of the interior. The hatch doors are always open, but the area above them is closed off when the hatch is closed. The two filler caps are from the base of a canvas snap. Attached them to a Dremel shaft and touched them against a file at high speed to reduce the flange evenly. Filled with glue, painted them silver, then 'distressed' them with CA glue! Not accurate but hopefully people will recognize they are filler caps!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forward cabin tops done
    1 month ago by Martin555 ( Vice Admiral)
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    Hi Ed,
    Clever use of the poppers as filler caps.
    Well done.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forward cabin tops done
    1 month ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Lovely bit of masking work Ed, and the finish you have got works really well, think I will have to do the same to mine now๐Ÿ˜

    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forward cabin tops done
    1 month ago by pmdent ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Ed, likewise really nice job on the non-skid and masking....envious......I have to decide whether to bother with this level of detail now as I am about to put in windows and ready for finishing colours...โ€ฆ.hmmmm... .not sure I CBA !!!!! for now - Peter
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forward cabin tops done
    1 month ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Itโ€™s not so difficult Peter. Hardest part was splitting the masking tape into fine enough strips. Someone told me afterwards that you can buy a tool to do that! Good luck! Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forward cabin tops done
    1 month ago by pmdent ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Ed, I see you used Rust-oleum Multi-color texture spray from the can in one of your photos. Clearly available in USA - but I don't think we have exact same product here in UK. I see Rust-oleum "concrete" effect spray that I can get here in Uk but wondered whether it will have same "texture" look as yours..... does your texture arise from sand particles in the spray or what ? Peter
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forward cabin tops done
    1 month ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Peter, I didn't know about the Rust-oleum texture paint either and found it by accident. It really does work perfectly. The grit is finer than sand and it's easy to get a very even coat. I suspect there is something similar in the UK, but I don't know. The concrete effect spray doesn't sound like quite the same thing, but might be worth looking into. I've added sand when painting the decks of full size traditional sailing boats and didn't find it easy to get a professional finish, so the textured spray paint was a find. Sorry this isn't more helpful, but I'm sure you will find something. It doesn't really matter what color it is. Incidentally I looked up Efailwen and it looks like a beautiful part of the country. I grew up on Tresco, Isles of Scilly, just a bit south of you! Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forward cabin tops done
    1 month ago by pmdent ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Ed, thanks for the motivation.....perhaps I will try textured decks.....what is the full spec of the Rust-Oleum product you used as I cannot see the full can label....I get Rust-oleum Multi-color Textured....but when I google that appears quite a broad range of product...โ€ฆ..cheers Peter
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forward cabin tops done
    1 month ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi Peter. Here's a clearer view of the can label. There's not a lot of specs etc on the back. Good luck! Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forward cabin tops done
    1 month ago by jbkiwi ( Commodore)
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    Re - Hardest part was splitting the masking tape into fine enough strips.
    An easy way to make fine strips of tape is to stick the masking tape on a sheet of glass (I use an old louver window blade) and use a steel rule and a Stanley knife. You don't need to stick it down hard, - just enough to hold it straight and flat, and hold the knife at about a 5 deg angle while cutting. I've also used this method for Solarfilm aircraft covering for trim pieces.
    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forward cabin tops done
    1 month ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Ed, could this be the same textured paint that you used? they do it in a choice of colours! can you help๐Ÿคž
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rust-Oleum-400ml-Stone-Spray-Paint/...

    Cheers, Pete
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rust-Oleum-400ml-Stone-Spray-Paint/dp/B001W03PUE/ref=pd_sbs_60_img_0/260-9748664-0132851?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001W03PUE&pd_rd_r=b25a8144-170e-42b8-9d8f-1002b7778c95&pd_rd_w=qfPRs&pd_rd_wg=culaD&pf_rd_p=e44592b5-e56d-44c2-a4f9-dbdc09b29395&pf_rd_r=S1CVGGDT9RZ9EPE5EXYC&psc=1&refRID=S1CVGGDT9RZ9EPE5EXYC
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forward cabin tops done
    1 month ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Pete, I havenโ€™t seen this over here, so Iโ€™m not sure, but I think the finish might be a little rougher, judging by the cap. I will take a look in the hardware store in the next day or so and see if I can find an equivalent. Donโ€™t like the price: this stuff is a lot cheaper over here! Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forward cabin tops done
    1 month ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Thanks very much Ed, I was wondering if they call it different over here for the same product, but if you can find some further information, that would be great, as far as price goes, we always get screwed here in the good old UK๐Ÿ‘Ž


    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forward cabin tops done
    1 month ago by EdH ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi Pete. I was in the hardware store today. They have a huge range of Rust-oleum but the closest thing I could find was this fake stone paint which is probably in the same set as yours. The granules seemed less regular as the plain textured paint but it might work. Good luck. Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forward cabin tops done
    1 month ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Thanks once again Ed, for conducting the search. I think my best bet would be to contact a supplier in the USA and see if I can get it sent to me here in the UK.๐Ÿ˜

    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forward cabin tops done
    1 month ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Pete,
    Amazon.com and other USA suppliers won't ship to UK (or Germany๐Ÿค”)
    But Amazon UK stock it, good for you ๐Ÿ˜‰ but not for me ๐Ÿ˜ญ
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=rust+oleum+multicolor+textured+...
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=rust+oleum+multicolor+textured+spray+paint&link_code=qs&sourceid=Mozilla-search&tag=firefox-uk-21
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forward cabin tops done
    1 month ago by Rookysailor ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Anything that you may require from Amazon Doug, I would be only to pleased to acquire such,as I already get free p&p(from being an Amazon prime member) and forward to you in Germany.๐Ÿ˜Š


    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Forward cabin tops done
    1 month ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Pete,
    Many thanks for your kind offer๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜
    I'll bear that in mind.
    You may have trouble sending paints etc though!
    Think I can get Rust-Oleum through Ebay.de, it all comes from a supplier in Kings Lynn!!!
    Probably have to pay duty now though โ˜น๏ธ Damn BREXIT๐Ÿ˜ 
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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