Recent FB posts of the Aerokit's RAF Crash Tender got me interested in restoring the old one in our basement. I built this one with my Dad, 57 years ago in 1962, when I was 15. I found it again when packing up my parent's house and it’s been in my basement since! It's in terrible condition and I'd probably be better off starting from scratch, but that misses the point. I’ve also included the old Aerokits brochure from that year! For years I have only built scratch built models and want to try to add more detail, including a finished interior. To illustrate what I’m trying to do, I also included a picture of the wheelhouse of my last winter’s project, a Wesmac 46S lobster boat. A bit of bio: I am English, but sailed to the Caribbean when I was 24. I lived in The British Virgin Islands for the next 9 years, moving to the US in 1981. We currently live in Maine and I've been in the yacht charter business all my life. I build a scratch built boat model generally over two winters. Summer is for real boats!
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Aerokits 1962 34.5" RAF Crash Tender rebuild, including interior.
Recent FB posts of the Aerokit's RAF Crash Tender got me interested in restoring the old one in our basement. I built this one with my Dad, 57 years ago in 1962, when I was 15. I found it again when packing up my parent's house and it’s been in my basement since! It's in terrible condition and I'd probably be better off starting from scratch, but that misses the point. I’ve also included the old Aerokits brochure from that year! For years I have only built scratch built models and want to try to add more detail, including a finished interior. To illustrate what I’m trying to do, I also included a picture of the wheelhouse of my last winter’s project, a Wesmac 46S lobster boat. A bit of bio: I am English, but sailed to the Caribbean when I was 24. I lived in The British Virgin Islands for the next 9 years, moving to the US in 1981. We currently live in Maine and I've been in the yacht charter business all my life. I build a scratch built boat model generally over two winters. Summer is for real boats!
Hi Ed,
Easiest way to get Hi Def large file video on this site is to post it on You Tube and then post the You Tube link here.
Had to do that with the vids of my Sea Scout trials.
Cheers, Doug 😎
This project was started in November 2019 and these pictures and texts are taken from past posts, so expect the first ones to come in quick succession, slowing down drastically when we reach real time!
Looks more like I'm destroying the RAF Crash Tender than restoring it! The thin plywood was originally attached using glue and tiny (4mm long) nails (I remember tapping them in way back then). Judging by the ease everything came off, the glue was not as strong 57 years ago! Rather than fiberglassing the outside, I ended up painting a thick layer of fiberglass resin along all the inside joints. Some were so bad, resin leaked out! The model has spent years in damp basements and even had things dropped on it!
Drilled 4 holes in the enclosed bow section to reach the bow joints using a syringe. The whole thing is far more solid and I think watertight, though of course a little heavier. The engine bed plywood was delaminating, so built a new one. Now that I have the layout and profile plans of the original RAF crash tender, I've concentrated on the interior. Painted the inside of the hull black, in case any part of the hull turns out to be visible. Made a drop in module for the wheelhouse + steps to the forward galley, and two modules for the sick room behind it. The challenge was that they have to be temporarily removable for painting etc! The other challenge was the bulkhead that passes right through the wheelhouse! I cut as much of it out as I dared, leaving one upright piece (painted black) that the helmsman figure will slot onto (see wheelhouse detail picture)! The big surprise in researching this is how small the original was. 46 feet and half of the boat is engine room and aft cockpit, with a big fuel tank between the sick bay and engine room. The wheelhouse has barely enough room for a couple of standing figures! In the picture of the helmsman, note how far back the wheel is from the instruments. He's almost standing against the bulkhead. Enjoying the research and trying to make everything as authentic as possible, although I have slightly changed some things. For instance, I moved the access between the sickbay and wheelhouse slightly to stbd so the figure wouldn't block the view into the wheelhouse, which will of course be sealed when the roof goes on. I might leave the escape hatch in the wheelhouse roof open!
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This project was started in November 2019 and these pictures and texts are taken from past posts, so expect the first ones to come in quick succession, slowing down drastically when we reach real time!
Looks more like I'm destroying the RAF Crash Tender than restoring it! The thin plywood was originally attached using glue and tiny (4mm long) nails (I remember tapping them in way back then). Judging by the ease everything came off, the glue was not as strong 57 years ago! Rather than fiberglassing the outside, I ended up painting a thick layer of fiberglass resin along all the inside joints. Some were so bad, resin leaked out! The model has spent years in damp basements and even had things dropped on it!
Drilled 4 holes in the enclosed bow section to reach the bow joints using a syringe. The whole thing is far more solid and I think watertight, though of course a little heavier. The engine bed plywood was delaminating, so built a new one. Now that I have the layout and profile plans of the original RAF crash tender, I've concentrated on the interior. Painted the inside of the hull black, in case any part of the hull turns out to be visible. Made a drop in module for the wheelhouse + steps to the forward galley, and two modules for the sick room behind it. The challenge was that they have to be temporarily removable for painting etc! The other challenge was the bulkhead that passes right through the wheelhouse! I cut as much of it out as I dared, leaving one upright piece (painted black) that the helmsman figure will slot onto (see wheelhouse detail picture)! The big surprise in researching this is how small the original was. 46 feet and half of the boat is engine room and aft cockpit, with a big fuel tank between the sick bay and engine room. The wheelhouse has barely enough room for a couple of standing figures! In the picture of the helmsman, note how far back the wheel is from the instruments. He's almost standing against the bulkhead. Enjoying the research and trying to make everything as authentic as possible, although I have slightly changed some things. For instance, I moved the access between the sickbay and wheelhouse slightly to stbd so the figure wouldn't block the view into the wheelhouse, which will of course be sealed when the roof goes on. I might leave the escape hatch in the wheelhouse roof open!
Yes these are real boats - I seem to switch back and forth. Sorry. We were passed by a real Westmac 46s. Westmacs are popular on the Maine coast. They are ideal for the big seas sometimes found here. It’s a bit like the Cornish coast.
What a fabulous blog mturpin013! I will be returning to it regularly. It makes me want to go out and buy a small metal lathe. I have one I use for wood, which gives me a lot of pleasure, but it wouldn't be suitable for this kind of work. The last time I used a metal lathe was in the late 60s during the industrial part of my University Sandwich course! It was at the old AEI plant in Leicester. I still have some of the tools I made there. Loved it!
I've learned a lot from your blog already. It never occurred to me that the interior would be varnished wood. I asked about interior colors at the two FB model pages I belong to but never got an answer, so have painted the wheelhouse and uprights in the sick bay the same grey as outside and the floors and bunks a slightly lighter grey. Oh well!
The original Aerokits model had sliding hatches on both the sick bay and engine room. Your model shows lifting hatches over the engine room. This is only critical because I plan the have the hatches open, to give a glimpse into the interior. A sliding hatch could feasibly be left open but a raised hatch would be less likely. The engines aren't that detailed so maybe a limited view through the windows is ok!
It looks like you had the same problem I had with with a bulkhead running through the wheelhouse that you had to cut back.
You are creating something really beautiful! Thanks for sharing.
Mine is more abstract! It will be going to a grandchild and probably will be used/abused, plus some parts of the abuse this old kit has been through in the last 55 years will be hard to cover up and will always show through.
Motor, shaft and rudder in. Made a motor mount from a piece of steel as these motors have a lot of torque! Used an E-flite #15, 950kv, driving an Octura 450 three bladed propeller, 1.97” dia x 2.7” pitch. Had to cut the shaft and shaft tube to move the motor back. Sleeved the tube with brass. May have to experiment with motor/prop once in the water, but had these in the shop and have used similar before.
Built a fake engine room which easily lifts out for good access to the motor, batteries and electronics. Modeled the Meteorite engines as they would have been uncovered and visible, but because they will normally just be seen through 4 ports and a hatch, I didn't concentrate too much on detail. Clay was roughly spread over a balsa block and fired. This was then sanded into shape. The spark plug leads etc were brass tubing. The smallest tubes for the leads were a tiny 0.05” in diameter! I also made the sick bay bunk cushions in the same way. After finding this site and discovering so much more information on the original craft, I wish I had done the engines in more detail!
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Motor, Servo fitted. Fake engine room lifts out to access machinery.
Motor, shaft and rudder in. Made a motor mount from a piece of steel as these motors have a lot of torque! Used an E-flite #15, 950kv, driving an Octura 450 three bladed propeller, 1.97” dia x 2.7” pitch. Had to cut the shaft and shaft tube to move the motor back. Sleeved the tube with brass. May have to experiment with motor/prop once in the water, but had these in the shop and have used similar before.
Built a fake engine room which easily lifts out for good access to the motor, batteries and electronics. Modeled the Meteorite engines as they would have been uncovered and visible, but because they will normally just be seen through 4 ports and a hatch, I didn't concentrate too much on detail. Clay was roughly spread over a balsa block and fired. This was then sanded into shape. The spark plug leads etc were brass tubing. The smallest tubes for the leads were a tiny 0.05” in diameter! I also made the sick bay bunk cushions in the same way. After finding this site and discovering so much more information on the original craft, I wish I had done the engines in more detail!
I'm in the US, so you might find things are different in the UK, but the E-flite 15 requires a 40 - 45 amp ESC and I've traditionally paired it with a 60 amp Dynamite marine brushless ESC and a 4450mAh 12.6v 3cell LiPo, all from Horizon Hobby. I try to keep everything interchangeable (same battery dimensions, same brand of motor etc) as I like experimenting. With this ESC I actually fan cooled it in the last boat, as I run my boats in salt water. Squirting WD40 through the cooling system after a run does work, but it makes sense for me to avoid water cooling, so when I eventually get around to the ESC, I might look at one designed for cars. Will keep you posted!
The four drop-in modules for the wheelhouse, forward galley, and a pair for the sick room behind it, all had to be temporarily removable for painting, wiring etc., which was a challenge! I did this before discovering the wealth of information on this site and though I looked and asked my other groups for interior color information, I finally just assumed everything in the RAF/Navy was grey, which turned out to be wrong! Everything is firmly glued in place now, so that's the way it has to stay, but I don't think it's a problem. Now just trying to get the outside reasonably correct!
Apart from the wheelhouse and sick bay wall lights, the bulbs are hidden to provide shadow lighting. A bulb shows through the drop in engine room floor when in place, but is hidden between the engines when viewed through the ports. Navigation lights work. The wires protruding from the wheelhouse bulkhead are for a masthead light and a spotlight. Steering servo drives rudder via two sheathed cables.
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The four drop-in modules for the wheelhouse, forward galley, and a pair for the sick room behind it, all had to be temporarily removable for painting, wiring etc., which was a challenge! I did this before discovering the wealth of information on this site and though I looked and asked my other groups for interior color information, I finally just assumed everything in the RAF/Navy was grey, which turned out to be wrong! Everything is firmly glued in place now, so that's the way it has to stay, but I don't think it's a problem. Now just trying to get the outside reasonably correct!
Apart from the wheelhouse and sick bay wall lights, the bulbs are hidden to provide shadow lighting. A bulb shows through the drop in engine room floor when in place, but is hidden between the engines when viewed through the ports. Navigation lights work. The wires protruding from the wheelhouse bulkhead are for a masthead light and a spotlight. Steering servo drives rudder via two sheathed cables.
Excellent work ED👍👍
While you are fitting out the interior I hope you don't forget the ESSENTIAL piece of equipment in the attached pic. 😮😁
Taken on an original Vosper boat.
Cheers, Doug 😎
BTW Nearly all the naval ships I've been on over the last 37 or so years, from China to Chile and SA to Canada, incl. patrol boats to light carriers, had pale green interior walls. A few had pale cream instead. Submarines seemed to be grey wherever you looked🤔
Doug, the head was conveniently round the corner and out of sight from the companionway, but it would have been fun to have a go at it!
I have to admit I have never spent time inside a Naval vessel and my imagination got it wrong! Of course the old timers I sailed in normally had white paneled overheads and bulkheads, so I should have known!
Working on the RAF Crash Tender's helmsman. Like the engines, I started with a rough wood core. This slots over the remains of the bulkhead in the wheelhouse. Added clay over the core, which I fired, then used a Dremel, file and fine sandpaper to shape. Just started painting it. A patient in the sickbay and a doctor are also in the works.
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Working on the RAF Crash Tender's helmsman. Like the engines, I started with a rough wood core. This slots over the remains of the bulkhead in the wheelhouse. Added clay over the core, which I fired, then used a Dremel, file and fine sandpaper to shape. Just started painting it. A patient in the sickbay and a doctor are also in the works.
Hi Doug. It's pretty hard to overcook Skulpey, unless you just walk away! I set it for 15 minutes, then tapped it to see how it was hardening, then ten more minutes and repeat. Most were done in 25 minutes but some thicker parts need a little more. If an area is overdone (as one little piece was) it starts to go brown, which makes it harder to paint, but still no smell. Never heard of flesh colored clay, but personally I think I would still prefer to start with white! Experiment!
I tend to agree with you ED.
Didn't much like the look of the so called flesh tones and the higher price deterred me somewhat🤔
I agree white gives us a 'blank canvas', so to speak, to colour as we wish.
Attached the link to the 'Doll' flesh colours.
Cheers, Doug 😎 https://www.gerstaecker.de/FIMO-Professional-doll-art-Modelliermasse.html
Finished the wheelhouse on the RAF Crash Tender. Sadly I had done this before joining this site. I don't know why I missed the drawing of the wheelhouse bulkhead, as I used several of the other photographs. It would have helped for the wheelhouse, but at best this model is still a rough approximation!
Put a chart table (with a chart of The Solent) in to hide the piece of the old bulkhead I had to keep. The helmsman slots onto the remaining center part of the same bulkhead.
Cut the wheel out of 1/8” Bass wood sheet, using two hole saws (1”and 3/4” - it took 3 tries!) sanding, then strengthening by soaking back in CA glue. The center is a wheel from a servo, cut into spokes. Attached the wheel to the helmsman as it's easier to align the dashboard up to the wheel than try to adjust the man’s arms to connect to it!
The compass is a piece of doweling, with the edges rounded off, then the end drilled. Used wood filler to fill the drill hole, shaping the recess with a finger, then painted and added 'gimbals'.
The close up camera is cruel! The wheelhouse will be permanently enclosed so everything will only visible through windows and overhead hatch, which will help!
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Finished the wheelhouse on the RAF Crash Tender. Sadly I had done this before joining this site. I don't know why I missed the drawing of the wheelhouse bulkhead, as I used several of the other photographs. It would have helped for the wheelhouse, but at best this model is still a rough approximation!
Put a chart table (with a chart of The Solent) in to hide the piece of the old bulkhead I had to keep. The helmsman slots onto the remaining center part of the same bulkhead.
Cut the wheel out of 1/8” Bass wood sheet, using two hole saws (1”and 3/4” - it took 3 tries!) sanding, then strengthening by soaking back in CA glue. The center is a wheel from a servo, cut into spokes. Attached the wheel to the helmsman as it's easier to align the dashboard up to the wheel than try to adjust the man’s arms to connect to it!
The compass is a piece of doweling, with the edges rounded off, then the end drilled. Used wood filler to fill the drill hole, shaping the recess with a finger, then painted and added 'gimbals'.
The close up camera is cruel! The wheelhouse will be permanently enclosed so everything will only visible through windows and overhead hatch, which will help!
"The close up camera is cruel! "
Tell me about it Ed!🙄
The close up of your instrument panel tells me your boat may be outta gas! 😁
Nice work👍 Word to the wise though!
For the back panel to the console I think I might have chosen a smooth plasti-card rather than an open grain wood.😉 But as you say; You can only see it through the windows.
Main thing is you are 'keeping an old lady' alive.👍
KUTGW, Cheers, Doug 😎
An unfortunate downed airman is in the sickbay! The concerned medic will be sitting on the opposite berth and is in the works! Like the last figure, I made a rough balsa core, adding clay and then firing both. Used a Dremel and fine sandpaper to make the final shape of the figure. The blanket was shaped and finished before firing as it had to be so thin to show the shape of the body. I fired it on top of the figure with tin foil separating them.
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An unfortunate downed airman is in the sickbay! The concerned medic will be sitting on the opposite berth and is in the works! Like the last figure, I made a rough balsa core, adding clay and then firing both. Used a Dremel and fine sandpaper to make the final shape of the figure. The blanket was shaped and finished before firing as it had to be so thin to show the shape of the body. I fired it on top of the figure with tin foil separating them.
Fitted the windows (what a time consuming pain!). Original photographs show that only the wheelhouse windows have surrounds, so decided to cut, file and sand the plastic to an interference fit directly into the wood (might add surrounds to the wheelhouse later). They don't need glue but will probably add some fine CA when the protective paper is removed. To speed things up, glued 4 pieces of plastic together along a surplus edge, so could cut out 4 blanks at a time, but then the work began.
Used the original wheelhouse beams, but cut them far thinner to be more realistic. Replaced the old deck (minus those wretched tacks) as a base and was going to cover with a nice, individually planked deck, but just in time learned from this site that the original deck was painted in non-skid grey paint, so individual planks would not be visible. Reluctantly I covered the sub-deck with 1/16" Bass sheet, using only 4 pieces total, to minimize joins and produce a smooth surface for a decent paint job. Added a rub rail.
Made the deck lifting rings from picture hangers. Added rails inside the rub rail. Painted decks with a green primer. Couldn’t find masking tape narrow enough for the edges and other areas that would not be covered in non-skid, so set up a jig to cut from a wider roll. Didn't know you could buy a textured spray paint but found one from Rust-oleum (brown). Has a wider nozzle so comes out fast. Shake it well! The decks will eventually all be a uniform darker grey, not brown non-skid! Had to redo the cabin sides a slightly lighter grey, which involved removing the interference fit windows (one was so tight I cracked it). After all this, the two greys dried almost the same color, inspite of being different in their charts.
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Fitted the windows (what a time consuming pain!). Original photographs show that only the wheelhouse windows have surrounds, so decided to cut, file and sand the plastic to an interference fit directly into the wood (might add surrounds to the wheelhouse later). They don't need glue but will probably add some fine CA when the protective paper is removed. To speed things up, glued 4 pieces of plastic together along a surplus edge, so could cut out 4 blanks at a time, but then the work began.
Used the original wheelhouse beams, but cut them far thinner to be more realistic. Replaced the old deck (minus those wretched tacks) as a base and was going to cover with a nice, individually planked deck, but just in time learned from this site that the original deck was painted in non-skid grey paint, so individual planks would not be visible. Reluctantly I covered the sub-deck with 1/16" Bass sheet, using only 4 pieces total, to minimize joins and produce a smooth surface for a decent paint job. Added a rub rail.
Made the deck lifting rings from picture hangers. Added rails inside the rub rail. Painted decks with a green primer. Couldn’t find masking tape narrow enough for the edges and other areas that would not be covered in non-skid, so set up a jig to cut from a wider roll. Didn't know you could buy a textured spray paint but found one from Rust-oleum (brown). Has a wider nozzle so comes out fast. Shake it well! The decks will eventually all be a uniform darker grey, not brown non-skid! Had to redo the cabin sides a slightly lighter grey, which involved removing the interference fit windows (one was so tight I cracked it). After all this, the two greys dried almost the same color, inspite of being different in their charts.
Forward cabin tops done. Green primer, brown textured paint for the non-skid, then matte clamshell topcoat (essentially white with a touch of grey). The hatch slides open to show a bit more of the interior. The hatch doors are always open, but the area above them is closed off when the hatch is closed. The two filler caps are from the base of a canvas snap. Attached them to a Dremel shaft and touched them against a file at high speed to reduce the flange evenly. Filled with glue, painted them silver, then 'distressed' them with CA glue! Not accurate but hopefully people will recognize they are filler caps!
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Forward cabin tops done. Green primer, brown textured paint for the non-skid, then matte clamshell topcoat (essentially white with a touch of grey). The hatch slides open to show a bit more of the interior. The hatch doors are always open, but the area above them is closed off when the hatch is closed. The two filler caps are from the base of a canvas snap. Attached them to a Dremel shaft and touched them against a file at high speed to reduce the flange evenly. Filled with glue, painted them silver, then 'distressed' them with CA glue! Not accurate but hopefully people will recognize they are filler caps!
Anything that you may require from Amazon Doug, I would be only to pleased to acquire such,as I already get free p&p(from being an Amazon prime member) and forward to you in Germany.😊
Hi Pete,
Many thanks for your kind offer👍😁
I'll bear that in mind.
You may have trouble sending paints etc though!
Think I can get Rust-Oleum through Ebay.de, it all comes from a supplier in Kings Lynn!!!
Probably have to pay duty now though ☹️ Damn BREXIT😠
Cheers, Doug 😎
Completed the cabin top of the RAF Crash Tender's engine room. As before, green primer, brown textured non-skid, then matte clamshell white topcoat. The two hatches open to give a restricted view of the 'engines'. They can stay open or snap closed. The tiny hinges are normally used for the flaps on larger model aircraft. The rod for the netting rails is actually brass welding rod which was just the right diameter.
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Completed the cabin top of the RAF Crash Tender's engine room. As before, green primer, brown textured non-skid, then matte clamshell white topcoat. The two hatches open to give a restricted view of the 'engines'. They can stay open or snap closed. The tiny hinges are normally used for the flaps on larger model aircraft. The rod for the netting rails is actually brass welding rod which was just the right diameter.
You're right Pete👍 Beady eyes 🤓😉
It's missing in pics 5 and 7 as well.
Which makes me even more certain that these pics are from the same trials day and the boat was still property of the yard.
Cheers, Doug 😎
Easiest way to get Hi Def large file video on this site is to post it on You Tube and then post the You Tube link here.
Had to do that with the vids of my Sea Scout trials.
Cheers, Doug 😎