|||
Current Website Support
82
Contributors
21
Subscribers
You are Not Registered
Donate for your silver medal ๐Ÿ…
ยฃ10
ยฃ15
ยฃ25
ยฃ50
Subscribe for your gold medal ๐Ÿ…
ยฃ1
ยฃ3
ยฃ5
ยฃ10
You Will Be Helping Towards:

  • Domain Fees
  • Security Certificates
  • iOS & Android App Fees
  • Website Hosting
  • Fast Servers
  • Data Backups
  • Upkeep & Maintenance
  • Administration Costs

    Without your support the website wouldn't be what it is today.

    Please consider donating towards these fees to help keep us afloat.

    Read more

    All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

    Many thanks for your kind support
  • Join Us On Social Media!
    Model Boats Website
    Model Boats Website
    Home
    Forum
    Build Blogs
    Media Gallery
    Boat Clubs & Lakes
    Events
    Boat Harbour
    How-To Articles
    Plans & Docs
    Useful Links
    25

















    Followers
    Vintage Model Works Thames Police Launch by M Turpin
    by mturpin013 ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ( Rear Admiral)
    ๐Ÿ“ฃ










    Click To
    Follow
    48 Posts 262 Comments 0 Photos 377 Likes
    Most recent posts shown first   (Show Oldest First) (Print Booklet)
    ๐Ÿ“ Final cabin detail
    9 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Brass capping
    One of the things evident on the real craft is the brass capping on the rear cabin supports, Iโ€™m not sure of its purpose other than it could be an area of wear as officers bend to enter the cabin, however Iโ€™m not questioning its purpose but wanting to make my model as near the original as possible so I cut some strips of brass sheet 1mm thick x 5.5mm wide, I do this using a fine toothed slitting saw in the milling machine cutting a strip of any width I want and leaving a โ€œ buckle freeโ€ strip unlike you get using tin snips. I then make a pencil trace of the shape and use this to bend the brass strip to shape. It now requires some 0.5 mm holes to allow me to pin the strips to the wood, adding some epoxy resin to make a tight fitting rail.
    Spray rail
    Next is the spray rail on the roof, this looks a simple enough item but it requires to be bent in 3 plains (roof curve, sweepback, and lean back) so I decided to laminate the piece on a jig with the same forms as the roof. It made fitting to the roofs shape much easier with minimal trimming. I held the rail on using 0.5 mm pins these were drilling into the underside of the rail and glued in place, leaving about 3mm proud to go through the cabin roof. Marking the position of the pins on the roof is easily done by placing a piece of masking tape on a piece of expanded polystyrene and then just pushing into the tape and polystyrene this leaves holes in the tape which can now be transferred to the cabin roof in the correct position the marked holes can then be drilled through in the exact position. I use some canopy adhesive on the underside of the rail to secure it in position.
    Window frames
    The manufacture of the window frames was detailed earlier and all that is required now is to secure them in position. I use a 2mm wide extra strong double sided tape which I found to be capable of securing aluminium sheet whilst machining! (The dash board). This tape was placed along the back face of all the frames and then each frame was positioned and pressed firmly home, the tape reaches its maximum strength after 12 hours and believe me itโ€™s really difficult to remove when fully cured.
    Hand rails
    These again were detailed earlier and only needed to be glued in place and as with the spray rails I used the tape transfer method to position the holes and a small amount of canopy adhesive on each leg then pushed home.
    Kent clearview
    This little detail was made from black Perspex, I machined an outer ring and centre stud and then a small triangular piece extending to the centre stud was hand fashioned then all tree pieces were stuck to the front window with canopy glue.
    Life ring and horns
    Both these details had been previously made and trial fitted so it was a simple attachment job using the 8BA studs in the bases.
    Search light
    This item has already been tested so all thatโ€™s required is to bolt it in position and feed the wires through into the cabin; I made provision for the electrical connection so a plug is crimped on the wires and plugged into the distribution board.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 34 Views
    9
    7
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Final cabin detail
    4 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Thank you mike,
    It's great to be back.
    I feel much better altho not 100%.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 15 Views
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Final cabin detail
    4 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Thanks to all for your encouraging and kind comments, but more importantly welcome back to Martin I'm glad your feeling better.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 14 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Final cabin detail
    6 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Mike,
    You are a true master.
    It is a pleasure to follow your build logs.
    I like the way you take the time to make and use Jigs to ensure that everything is lined up the same and identical.
    Also i like the way you have made the mast plug in.
    Excellent workmanship.

    She is going to be another boat to be extremely proud of.


    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 17 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Final cabin detail
    8 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
    Flag
    Really nice work as usual Mike.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 29 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Final cabin detail
    9 days ago by stevedownunder ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    Hi Mike,

    Beautiful work, a bit of final assembly is a nice thing.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 31 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Final cabin detail
    9 days ago by robbob ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Mike.
    Very nice finishing detail ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘.
    I really like the way you've made the spray rail and I wish that I'd laminated the spray rail on mine as it was a b***r to form the piece with three curvatures just by steaming. When I last looked at mine the spray rail had lifted slightly at both ends โ˜น๏ธso I may have to re-make it using your method ๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ‘.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 31 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Final cabin detail
    9 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
    Flag
    There you go with your lovely brass work mike, looks fantastic ๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 31 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ“ Final Lacquer
    14 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    This part of the build is a delicate one, First the water line has been applied and I must ensure that it is firmly stuck without any tiny edges coming loose especially where the line crosses the chine and around the bow and two corners on the stern. Having made sure all is stuck, then the hull gets three coats of satin lacquer.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 66 Views
    9
    6
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Final Lacquer
    11 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Doug I see what you were saying, it is a result of the angle I've taken the picture, from slightly above and the water line actually disappears onto the flat width of the chine (not visible) and reappears slightly further along giving the appearance of nearly thinning completely.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 44 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Final Lacquer
    12 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Hi Mike, Rob,
    It wasn't so much the waterline being bent as such (but now you come to mention it ๐Ÿ˜).
    No. It was more the way that the Trim/Boottop/Waterline seems to shrink and distort as it goes over the chine rail.
    Maybe an optical delusion as Rob says. A side on right way up pic would maybe settle it.
    Seeing the problems this causes I'm inclined to leave my Sea Scout as just a pure blue hull ๐Ÿ™„
    Or, apply / paint the trim line now and then fit the chine / spray rail afterwards.
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    PS Hadn't rated you as a Plonker Rob ๐Ÿ˜‰ ๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 56 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Final Lacquer
    12 days ago by robbob ( Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Hi Mike.
    I'm pretty sure your waterline is level, it must just be an optical illusion that the line appears bent because the eye perceives the chine and hull bottom to be straight and level...which it's not. You really have to 'sight' the line by looking from bow to stern to see if the line is straight or not.
    I had a similar thing when doing my Police Boat too.
    Plonking it in the water is the real test ๐Ÿ˜.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 51 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Final Lacquer
    12 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Doug I see what you mean about the water line it does look bent in these pictures. I did as Rob does and used a laser to mark the line then followed the marks with the trim line in white, However even when I look at it it looks a bit odd depending where you look at it from. The final situation is - It won't sink even if the line isn't truly on the WATER - I hope. Ill try and doe some pics when I get chance - too busy in the garden at the moment.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 54 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Final Lacquer
    13 days ago by robbob ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Mike has done a fine job painting the hull ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    And yes, you're quite correct Doug, my particular bรชte noire is getting the waterline marking to stay stuck around corners and over chines.
    Sensibly Mike has ensured his is firmly fixed and then sealed with multiple coats of a satin lacquer finish. That'll do the job ๐Ÿ˜€
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 53 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Final Lacquer
    14 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Paintwork looks great Michael, ๐Ÿ‘
    Not altogether too convinced about the trim line over the chine though ๐Ÿค“
    Can we see it in side view right way up please?
    Seems to be a perennial problem, which I'm gonna have on my Sea Scout as well.
    Also one of Rob's pet hates I believe.
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 67 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ“ Rear Seat
    17 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    The rear seat is almost the same construction as the battery cover at the bow albeit square with no angled top, the space for equipment at the rear is quite tight and to make it look like a seat things will have to be compact. We have the ESC and receiver along with all the wires from the cabin and the motor, also the water cooling system all to be contained under the seat.
    Again the frame is made from 5mm x 5mm walnut and the magnets are inserted in pairs into the wood to make sure the polarity is correct. I can then make up the frame to cover all the items and glue/pin it together. When the frame is set I can cut pieces if 1.5mm thick walnut sheet and edge it in 5 x 5mm walnut then glue it to the frame. Finally both the front battery cover and the seat will get a couple of coats of satin lacquer.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 74 Views
    7
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rear Seat
    14 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Rob, that's funny I've been doing exactly the same, I am a keen gardener and grow all my own plants so this time of year is really busy and for some reason the weeds continue to grow despite my efforts to kill them.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 66 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rear Seat
    16 days ago by robbob ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Mike.
    Now that the Pilot Boat is finished I'm taking the opportunity to catch up with gardening, house repairs and decorating. I just spent the day in the garden and frankly I'm 'cream crackered' from all the effort ๐Ÿ˜€. Jet washing the decking and re-oiling it tomorrow. I'm still waiting for MC to deliver the next project, some last minute design changes I'm told so it could be a few weeks yet. Hoping to get some boating in with the club if we can do it within the restrictions ๐Ÿคž๐Ÿ˜Š. Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 72 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rear Seat
    16 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    That's right Rob I'm at the stage where I keep finding bits I've not finished and they then they tend to take longer to complete as I have to get my brain in gear as to where I was and what I did.
    But I'm still really enjoying this build
    PS I was worried you'd stopped posting but 'ha ho' here you are (when's the next project coming?) the site seems short of content lately or is it that you have left a great void?๐Ÿ˜œ
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 72 Views
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rear Seat
    17 days ago by robbob ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Mike.
    More great progress ๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ‘
    Not far off finishing now?
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 75 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Battery cover and instrument panel
    27 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    The main battery is located at the front of the โ€œBOXโ€ area and contains a main switch for the power, the design of this area was originally by Rob who came up with the idea of having the main power switch operated by the steering wheel so hiding the switch operation. I also wanted to have a โ€œDash Boardโ€ to simulate the real boat and for it to have a couple of Leds as well as the illuminated dials so this needs to be mounted around the steering wheel and to move up and down as the โ€œswitchโ€ is moved on and off. The dash board is made of aluminium and shaped as the original with four dials and three lights with a central hole where the switch/steering wheel fits.
    I decided to build the wooden frame for the box using magnets to hold it in position and then to fill in the body area with some 2.5mm walnut sheet which was surrounded with 5x5mm walnut strips to form the whole cover. The magnets are an important part of this construction and as such the placement of them has to be accurate, so to achieve this they are drilled in pairs and the magnets glued into the wood in pairs.
    I cut an initial slot to try the switch operation and placed the dash board in place this gives me an indication as to how far the aluminium dash has to move up and down. The next issue is how to make the dash to move up and down without it tipping sideways and also allowing the wires for the Leds to move freely underneath.
    I used some 2.5mm sq tube with a 1.5mm sq tube running inside as a runner the larger tube is fastened to the cover with some 8BA nuts soldered to its side and then bolted through the top which has had wood hardener applied to strengthen the area. The central smaller rails are fastened to the aluminium dash with two 10BA screws; this allows the aluminium dash to slide freely up and down, I now need to put additional holes/slots to allow the wires to run freely through the wooden top.
    The wires need to be connected to the 6v supply which is located in the central motor housing so a connector is required to allow the dash housing to be removed when required and any Led to be changed if they fail. The illumination of the dials is yet another hurdle which I not sure can be jumped and it may be that the illumination has to be from above as there just isnโ€™t enough room between the aluminium dash and the wooden top.
    PS not sure why it duplicarted all the pics but Ive deleted them
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 97 Views
    5
    5
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Battery cover and instrument panel
    26 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Doug, Rob, thanks for your really helpful suggestions. As you will have seen in all my work I don't usually take the easy option, if I did I would have finished this boat and the crash tender a year ago ๐Ÿ˜Š
    Anyway to your suggestions I have considered the Perspex option and am currently carrying out trials to make this an option, this would also need illuminating so maybe an SMD.
    Rob drilling through each "dial hole" although it would work it would also compromise the integrity of the wood even though I have hardened it, so I think that's not an option, It would have worked if I had used some aluminium for the top and veneered it, but unfortunately I didn't.
    Doug the SMD LED option again under consideration I have ordered some from EBay so I'm waiting for them to arrive. I have a 6V supply which is located in the centre motor housing and this supplies all the Led lighting in the cabin and stern, so a supply isn't a problem.
    So again thanks for your suggestions and watch this space.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 87 Views
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Battery cover and instrument panel
    26 days ago by robbob ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Mike.
    Thinking about your lighting conundrum....๐Ÿค”
    As the LED's will only be lit when the switch is in the ON position why not just drill through all the dial locations when the switch is in the ON position and place a LED light source below it or perhaps a piece of Perspex that is edge lit. The supply can be taken from the LiPo from the switch, possible even without a resistor dropper as Doug suggested. I guess a lot of this depends on how much space you have between the top of the ali switch bracket and the underside of the wood top panel ?
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 95 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Battery cover and instrument panel
    27 days ago by robbob ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Mike.
    Wow...well you've really elaborated on my idea and it's looking really good so far, and beautifully engineered as we've all come to expect, but I can see that the lighting aspect of your design is going to be real challenge to incorporate into the panel. I'm looking forward to seeing how you accomplish that.
    Keep up the great work ๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ‘.
    Rob,
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 98 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Battery cover and instrument panel
    27 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Have you ever worked in Germany Michael?
    They have a saying here -
    "Warum einfach wenn es auch kompliziert geht?"
    'Why simple when it can also be complicated?'
    Nicely done, given the initial design premise!๐Ÿ™„

    Re illuminating the dials:- ๐Ÿ’ก
    How about fibre optic filaments?
    Bundled together and taped to the top of a bright white (or yellow?) LED with reflective tape; e.g. chrome tape.
    The LED can be mounted underneath the box/wooden top and the filaments (2 or 3 per dial) taken through small slots to the dials.
    Alternatively: you could put tiny a SMD LED (ca 1mm square and 1/2mm thick) behind each dial, connect to the supply volts with wrapping wire. A fiddle to solder but .... you want small!! ๐Ÿ˜‰ Where there's a will ... Michael! ๐Ÿ˜
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    BTW Summat's gone wonky with your pics. Try deleting and reloading them.
    Looking in the Edit box I can't tell which are the false ones, and the last time I tried to correct something like this by deleting ONE of the duplicates ALL the pics of the same image vanished ๐Ÿ˜ญ
    BTW2: If you go the SMD LED way you can connect all four in series and feed 'em from a small 3S LiPo (11.1V Nom) without needing a dropping resistor. Then you only need to fiddle two small wires through to supply them. They'll only need about 25 -30mA so wrapping wire would be fine.๐Ÿ‘
    Or; two pairs. Each pair supplied from the same 6V source, e.g. 4 x AAA cells. Again no resistor needed.๐Ÿ˜Š Even 4 silver oxide button cells (1.55V Nom) would work for an hour or so if you want to save weight.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 96 Views
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Battery cover and instrument panel
    27 days ago by stevedownunder ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    Hi Mike,

    Amazing, beautifully done, though I think it could have been more involved for an on\off switch, haha.
    Lovely work.๐Ÿ‘
    Cheers,
    Stephen.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 95 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ“ Painting the cabin
    30 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Another job thatโ€™s been hanging around for some time and thatโ€™s painting the outside and inside of the cabin, as its removable it makes it a little easier to do. So first check is to make sure all the walnut wood adornments are in place or that the fixing holes are present since I donโ€™t want to be drilling holes in new paintwork, so all ready for paint, The masking is a time consuming process and has to be done with care. The paint job will as all the rest 2/3 coats grey primer, I use commercial cellulose which I thin myself as itโ€™s so much cheaper than rattle tins. This is rubbed down between coats ready for the final coats of appliance white, I leave it to dry but not too long as the sooner you remove the masking the better, leaving it too long can cause the tape to pull at the paint and tear the edges.
    All that remains is to put on the navigation lights, hand rails, search lights and wire them all into the circuit board, these items were completed some time ago.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 109 Views
    6
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the cabin
    27 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    I can't disagree with more boats๐Ÿ˜ however spray equipment isn't cheap and I think to pay out for a decent set can't be justified for painting model boats I'm fortunate that I already had the equipment but I have to say if I was painting a range of odd colours I couldn't justify a litre of paint so I would use rattle tins and if cost wasn't a factor rattle tins are easiest.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 97 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the cabin
    29 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Thanks Michael,

    I don't have the spray equipment. There is low cost kit available, however I expect you get what you pay for. It sounds like it is economic, but only if you have a lot to do in one colour. I want to paint the hull of my Cutter with three different colours. Looks like rattle cans will work out a lot cheaper unless I can find a use for the left over colours (more boats?!)

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 106 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the cabin
    29 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Graham, I tend to use where possible cellulose paints as I have all the spray equipment from my kit car building days plus its a great deal cheaper than rattle tins, although maybe not as convenient, so I tent to wait until I have a batch of spraying to do all together. I do use rattle cans for odd colours such as gun metal where you don't use a lot.
    But to answer your question I spray both top and undercoats
    PS you can get a litre for about ยฃ20 plus thinners @ยฃ12 which will make up to about 20 rattle cans
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 107 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the cabin
    29 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hi Michael,

    Nice result on the painting.

    Do you apply the primer coats with a brush, or spray? Is the Appliance white also a commercial cellulose finish or something else?

    I don't like using rattle cans!

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 110 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ“ Deck Grips
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Here's just a few more pictures to help with the understanding of the process, they show the little jig that was used to tap the pins in to length before the head is cut off and the grouping of the pieces to put a radius on each end.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 111 Views
    5
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deck Grips
    1 month ago by stevedownunder ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    Lovely work Mike.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 112 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Deck Grips
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    This process was quite an involved process and for any reader to get any value out of this page I thought would present it in a different way, as an ex -engineer I am used to writing and using operations sheets.
    So hereโ€™s the deck grips OP sheet
    Notes โ€œPโ€ = Port โ€œSโ€ = Starboard
    M/T = masking tape

    Op No's Operation Descriptions Tools and Materials

    1 Fit deck beading on โ€œPโ€&โ€Sโ€ for the length of cabin
    Tools/Materials glue, , 0.45 drill 3 x 3mm Walnut bead, 0.5 brass pins
    2 Lay M/T along deck โ€œPโ€&โ€Sโ€
    Tools/Materials 25mm M/T tape
    3 On โ€œPโ€ Lay a thin strip of M/T (sticky side up)
    Tools/Materials 10mm M/T tape
    4 On โ€œPโ€ Mark all 20 out positions of bars using gauge
    Tools/Materials pencil, gauge
    5 On โ€œSโ€ mark 1st position then Transfer 10mm M/T and line up with the 1st bar
    6 Using the gauge inverted mark on the remaining 19 bar lines, this gives identical markings
    Tools/Materials gauge
    7 On โ€œPโ€ Lay a 3x3 timber down each side to determine the width of bars
    Tools/Materials 3 x 3mm Walnut/tape
    8 For โ€œPโ€ sand angle on one end of bar โ€“ mark length and cut & angle the other end Tools/Materials saw, sander
    9 Take each bar and using jig, drill 0.45mm hole in both ends of the bar โ€“ repeat on other 19 Tools/Materials drilling m/c drill jig, 0.45mm brill bit
    10 Using pin jig, on the inside only tap in 0.5mm brass pin to depth on all 20 bars
    Tools/Materials Pin hammer, jig
    11 Using the drill gauge line up and drill the inside hole in the deck on all 20 positions
    Tools/Materials drill gauge 0.45 drill, hand drill
    12 Take the first bar & place the pin in the drilled hole and tap in place, not too deep, align the bar using jig and drill the second hole, insert pin and tap just to hold in position
    Tools/Materials Pin hammer, jig, 0.45 drill, hand drill
    13 Repeat operation 12 on all 20 bars
    Tools/Materials Pin hammer, jig, 0.45 drill, hand drill
    14 Repeat ops 7 โ€“ 12 on โ€œSโ€
    15 Pull each bar out (with pins)and push onto a piece of balsa next to each other lined up at the angle
    Tools/Materials Balsa strip, angle gauge
    16 Now clamp in the vice and file a radius on the inside ends of each bar
    Tools/Materials Bench vice, smooth file
    17 Reverse the bars and repeat operation 16
    18 Place all bars โ€œSโ€ & โ€œPโ€ on a piece of balsa and spray 2 coats of satin varnish
    19 Carry out adhesion test, wood glue โ€“ V โ€“ epoxy
    Tools/Materials wood glue, epoxy
    20 Using โ€œpin length jigโ€ cut all the pins to length โ€“ 5mm protruding
    Tools/Materials Jig, side cutters
    21 Using wood glue coat the bottom of each bar & tap into the pre drilled holes and tap fully home, wipe away any excess glue
    Tools/Materials Wood glue, pin hammer, wet cloth
    22 Finally cut the last piece according to original boat layout and drill, pin and glue into position

    Unfortunately the site doesn't support a table format so the layout isn't as I wanted
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 118 Views
    7
    7
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deck Grips
    1 month ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    "That language takes me back 30 years ..."
    That explains a lot Mike ๐Ÿ‘ With me it goes back even further!
    I first started fiddling with BASIC about 50 years ago! Tempus fugit!! ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    First started experimenting with an ATARI 400 then 800.
    Kids wanted various Game devices! ๐Ÿ™„
    So I said OK but better (cheaper!๐Ÿ˜) we get a computer that can play your games and much more!
    So what happened? Kids got Game Boys and such and I used the ATARI to learn BASIC, create new Mario levels etc etc ...
    Then at work I got my hands on an HP85 'all in one computer' with a tiny B/W display and a 4" paper roll dot printer built in. Nirvana! Remember the Ski game supplied with that?
    Soon ran out of possibilities with that but then got my sticky mits on an HP8020 and a ca 18" touch screen display - yes, there were such things back in the seventies!
    With that I started using BASIC to programme ATE systems, using the IEEE 488 bus, as it was originally intended by HP - GPIB.
    For example; spent some happy times with the crew of the Radio Type Approval Lab of the then MPT (Ministry of Posts & Telegraphs - anachronistic name now!) at Waterloo House in London, programming an ATE system for MPT127 mobile radio approval tests.
    That led to programming an RF monitoring system for them to assist with mobile surveys for suitable Cellular radio cell sites. Many happy days with a very likeable bunch of guys ๐Ÿ˜€
    On the monitoring side I had an interesting interlude helping NATS (National Air Traffic Services) to locate the source of signals interfering with ATC radio traffic.
    During a visit to the NATS Air Traffic Control Centre (then in West Drayton), which was shared with the RAF controllers, I was highly amused to observe, from the visitors gallery, that; on the civil aviation side all was brightly lit, and a few metres further on the RAF side there was no overhead lighting and operators were huddled over their displays, above the RAF side there was a banner saying 'RAF Controllers Do it In The Dark'.
    Some things you never forget! ๐Ÿ˜‰
    On the cellular side I also had dealings with the then 'start up' company Vodafone, also helping them find cell sites and test / service cell phones. Why oh why didn't I buy shares way back then when I had the chance ๐Ÿ˜ญ๐Ÿ˜ญ๐Ÿ˜ญ
    Also programmed the Radio Test Sets for PYE Telecommunications and others to match their products and the MPT specs of the time.
    Got a lot of stick from my bosses for spending too much time programming for a few customers - but I had the last laugh!
    My efforts, and a bit of luck due to the Falklands incident, meant that I earned, with commission, more than my immediate boss and even the division manager!
    After that the Div Man changed the commission rules and I said 'Fine, toodle ooh.' and moved to Germany where they respected and paid engineers much better back then. Still here after 36 years!
    Funny, one of my first jobs in Munich was to analyse and correct the BASIC program for a Cellular Radio ATE Controller, cos I knew the NMT, AMPS and TACS cellular specs!
    I found that the set did all the basic RF, AF and data telegram tests well BUT forgot the initial Login data exchange test! If dat don't woik the Cell system won't know that the phone is there and the rest is 'for the cats' (as they say around here๐Ÿ˜‰)
    Ramble over ๐Ÿ˜Œ
    G'night all, Stay safe๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ˜ด๐Ÿ’ค๐Ÿ’ค๐Ÿ’ค
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 117 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deck Grips
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    That language takes me back 30 years when I was an instructor with the Engineering Industry Training Board (EITB) teaching CNC machining. The organisation still exists as โ€ŽEAL: Part of "Enginuity Group" which is an employer-led engineering skills organisation supporting the engineering & manufacturing sectors.
    I worked for them for 33years (that's great years)
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 115 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deck Grips
    1 month ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Good to see you getting to grips with things Mike ๐Ÿ˜‰๐Ÿ‘
    Your Op reminds me a little of the old BASIC programmes-
    100 Variables; X;Y Z; ... // (Tools and materials needed)
    200 FOR I=1 TO 22
    1000 IF "this" do "that", GOTO, IF NOT ...
    ...
    1100 GOSUB I, "DO IT"; TOOL = X; MATERIAL = Y;
    1200 NEXT I
    Etc etc ๐Ÿ˜
    Mucho metรณdico amigo ๐Ÿ‘
    Pretty good result too. Can you come and fix my fish cutter deck? PLEASE!!!
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 118 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deck Grips
    1 month ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    "glad to learn from a master craftsman"
    Me too Colin ๐Ÿ‘
    When are you going to start your Master Classes in Vintage Model Boat Restoration and Display?
    You can sign me up now please! ๐Ÿ˜€
    Alles gute an die zwei Cs!
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 118 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deck Grips
    1 month ago by robbob ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Very methodical work Mike.
    Keep up the great work.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 119 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deck Grips
    1 month ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
    Flag
    Simply exquisite mike, that woodwork is class ๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 118 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deck Grips
    1 month ago by Colin H ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Thanks for the beautifully laid out instructions, life as a prototype engineer would have been so much simpler with such clearly written detail.
    Your engineering background must help with your beautiful models.
    Well done sir, keep us after school, glad to learn from a master craftsman.
    Cheers Colin.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 125 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ“ Water line
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    I used"www.cars-n-stripes.com"4mm self-adhesive White vinyl stripe 2 for 1 offer sold by the metre to do the water line, the reason I mention this product is because a lot of people seem to have problems with taking the tape over the raised chine.
    When I'm applying the tape I work from the stern with a length of tape that is 20mm longer than needed, I attached the length to the bow with a small piece of masking tape to keep it in the right direction and stopping it rolling up I start in the centre of the stern and work around the first corner, applying some gentle heat with a hairdryer (but not stretching it).
    I work along following with a soft cotton cloth pressing firmly until I reach the dreaded chine, again applying some gentle heat I mould the trim around the chine pressing firmly and holding in place while it cools, finally coming to the bow I cut to length. Then go back and check all along the length to make sure there are no "lifts"
    Just a note the gentle heat is really "gentle" and just tends to make the tape floppy. Itโ€™s a good idea to try a test piece first.
    I also found some โ€œtrim lineโ€ in gold that I had from lining a kit car in the past so decided to use it to put a line around the top of the hull to give a nice distinction between the blue and walnut woodwork. Just a point, the trim line was probably 20 + years old but still as good as new. I also applied the rear fenders, a detail I had made earlier and veneered/lacquered ready to simply glue in place using epoxy. Now the paint work is finished with all lines in place the last thing to be done is to give a couple of coats of satin lacquer.
    I did wonder why this Thames Police Launch didnโ€™t have any โ€œPOLICEโ€ decals on the hull as most emergency services have today and other vehicles probably did back in the day?
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 137 Views
    8
    13
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water line
    1 month ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Chacun ร  son goรปt Mike ๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 120 Views
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water line
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    I have found some more information on the non existent Police sign, apparently there is still a craft in service with the Nottinghamshire Police force, so I may include something on my boat, since its builders choice.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 119 Views
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water line
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Jb it was Wink I dealt with, a very pleasant man
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 119 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water line
    1 month ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Doug, the Aust site is very old (up to 2012) but appears to be still up, maybe they have the flags made by a German screen printer? Forum's still live but list of links is a bit glitchy. Probably haven't updated the site for a while. Funny how the prices are in euros. Just checked the OZ business register and they are still current in South Aust. Grise Wink (or the other way round) seems to be the only director.?

    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 120 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water line
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Doug yes I see what you mean on there home page it does in deed say Australia, however the return address on the parcel was Germany๐Ÿค” and looking back at the email correspondences he did make a reference to "we're setting up new equipment," this was in reference to a delay in processing my payment, He didn't want the money yet.๐Ÿค‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 120 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water line
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Mike,
    I know AMP (Accurate Model Parts).
    Have they moved house? ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    I know them as an Australian company!?
    Whatever. If they do the job ...
    Looking forward to seeing them 'flying on the pond'.
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 125 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water line
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Doug, I'm not sure how I came across this company but they were really helpful. When I place a custom order they asked what size flag I wanted, after a week they sent me an email with a copy of the flag they would print and instructions to print it out and measure it to confirm the dimensions. They then printed the flags, yes plural, only having ordered one they sent two free of charge with the comment "just in case you make a mistake" the quality was great with instructions how to cut and seal the edges.
    Highly recommended
    I know some people use suppliers that hand paints them on silk but to be honest the definition isn't there and the colours aren't that vibrant, but each to there own.
    https://amp.rokket.biz/flags_custom.shtml
    ๐Ÿ”—
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 127 Views
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water line
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Ich glaube dich Mike ๐Ÿ‘
    I believe you, there's a lot of clever niche companies over here.
    Which company did you use, can you post the link please ?
    Surprised you couldn't find someone in UK to make them ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 132 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water line
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Doug, already got the flags printed complete with ensign, they were done in Germany would you believe.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 128 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water line
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    When my curiosity is aroused Mike ...
    Things that seem to go against the norm set me off ๐Ÿ˜‰
    Glad you liked it. Hope it's useful.
    KUTGreatW ๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    PS But don't forget the Met Police crest on the ensign!
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 133 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water line
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Thanks for that bit of valuable research Doug its always appreciated, I had seen one of the video's before but my version wasn't as long as the link you found. great stuff.
    Thanks again
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 132 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water line
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Hi Mike,
    Ref 'POLICE' decals-
    Seems that for a period (ca 1977) this particular launch did not have POLICE on the hull!
    See attached pics.
    You might find some more pics / vids of interest here-
    https://www.google.com/search?q=Thames+Police+Launch&client=...
    Here are also a couple of UToob links about Met Police Thames launches.
    No sound on the first one I'm afraid ๐Ÿค”
    They show some useful details though.
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=i69pxalB9-Q
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CB_RP6AdKt8
    https://www.google.com/search?q=Thames+Police+Launch&client=firefox-b-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=U9AZPCd_bmMC8M%252CPvyYV0-ie1uTUM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTH-mTpryIjdH3T0Uy5laC7bg6YmQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwifzNPh_YDvAhXN-KQKHTsdCuwQ9QF6BAgOEAE&biw=1920&bih=936#imgrc=bCWvhPeoNGIBaM
    ๐Ÿ”—
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=i69pxalB9-Q
    ๐Ÿ”—
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CB_RP6AdKt8
    ๐Ÿ”—
    โ–ถ๏ธ
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 137 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Water line
    2 months ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
    Flag
    Hi Mike, shall try your method of applying the white trim line this weekend, hereโ€™s hoping! ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ‘Œ
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 136 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Painting
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    I wonโ€™t go into great detail about painting as itโ€™s been covered many times and it will be like watching paint dry.๐Ÿ˜ด
    I will cover the painting in five major steps.

    1 Priming
    2 Painting with Red Oxide
    3 Painting with Blue RAL 5004
    4 Trim line in white
    5 Final coat of satin lacquer (to be done yet)
    There was of course an awful lot of masking during these processes and a great deal of rubbing with wet and dry, so thatโ€™s that job done๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 144 Views
    7
    7
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
    Flag
    Thanks for the information on the lining tape Mike. I just bought some for Dusseldorf, and others at a later date.
    Peter.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 147 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting
    2 months ago by robbob ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Mike.
    That's the place I get my tape from too.
    I think it was me that put you on to them ๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 140 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Sorry to say but I've never had a problem with the "trim line" that's because I use
    "www.cars-n-stripes.com"
    4mm self-adhesive White vinyl stripe 2 for 1 offer sold by the metre.
    When I'm applying the tape I work from the stern with a length of tape that is 20mm longer than needed, I attached the length to the bow with a small piece of masking tape to keep it in the right direction and stopping it rolling up I start in the centre of the stern and work around the first corner applying some gentle heat with a hairdryer (but not stretching it).
    I work along following with a soft cotton cloth pressing firmly until I reach the dreaded chine, again applying some gentle heat I mould the trim around the chine pressing firmly and holding in place while it cools, finally coming to the bow I cut to length. Then go back and check all along the length to make sure there are no "lifts"
    Just a note the gentle heat is really "gentle" and just tends to make the tape floppy. Its a good idea to try a test piece first.
    Good luck Sy
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 140 Views
    5
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    Hi Mike,

    Paint work looks great, always a satisfying thing when it goes well...

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 145 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting
    2 months ago by robbob ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Sy.
    As you know, I now use an alternative to Trimline which I have much more success with, I'm not sure what Mike's used in this boat.
    Rob
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 143 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting
    2 months ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
    Flag
    Me too Rob, chine trimline keep me awake at night, I have that issue later this week on my Shannon๐Ÿคฌ๐Ÿคฌ
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 143 Views
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting
    2 months ago by robbob ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Looks really good Mike.
    Lovely shade of blue on the hull too ๐Ÿ˜‰.
    Is the Trimline tape sticking over the Chine Ok?
    I always have a problem with that ๐Ÿ˜”.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 143 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ“ Electrical layout in cabin Pt 2
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    The mast has a red and blue alternating flashing LEDs at the top. I made three versions of possible masts, one with 3mm LEDs mounted in a walnut post; the second was similar but using 5mm LEDs both of these didnโ€™t turn out as I wanted so I decide to make one from various pieces of brass tube, This version has 2 LEDs mounted in the top one blue and one red, the wiring of these LEDs proved to be a delicate operation due to the proximity of the LEDs to each other and the amount of wire legs I could allow due to the short distance available before the wires have to turn 100 degrees and go down the main shaft into the plugs and soldered into position. This completed meant it only required a small brass finial made from 6mm brass hex bar on the top which was glued in position.
    Now to the base, this will have to be removable from the cabin roof (for safe transport) so a method of holding the mast in position and also passing the electrical connection to the LEDs has to be designed. I used some 2mm plug and sockets which will do both jobs; however there is some precision pieces that need to be made to do this. In order to keep the electrical connection separately insulated so I used some Perspex to mount the plugs and sockets into, three (plugs) are fastened to the base of the mast and the others (socket) will be fastened in the inside of the roof. In all tree wires are required to operate the flashing lights. (operating system kindly made by Graham93)
    The control (on/off) will be operated via a Turnigy RC switch which is mounted in the main hull.
    Police boat flashing mast lights
    โ–ถ๏ธ
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 143 Views
    9
    5
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrical layout in cabin Pt 2
    2 months ago by stevedownunder ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    Lovely work Mike.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 146 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrical layout in cabin Pt 2
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Nice one 'Cyril' ๐Ÿ‘
    A 'Flasher' on a Police Launch!๐Ÿ˜ฎ๐Ÿ™ˆ
    Tempting fate a bit what?
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 144 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrical layout in cabin Pt 2
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    I think making this mast took nearly as long as taken to build the boat, however its all about the sense of achievement.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 143 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrical layout in cabin Pt 2
    2 months ago by robbob ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Excellent work Mike.๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ‘
    The mast has an almost 'art deco' look to it.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 143 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrical layout in cabin Pt 2
    2 months ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
    Flag
    Awesome mike! ๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 143 Views
    2
    Show 37 More Posts


    About This Website
    Terms of Service
    Privacy Policy
    Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info