Thanks for all the really helpful comments, It isn't obvious from the pictures but the last picture shows the common contacts for pos and neg which will be mounted in the black Perspex at the top of each rail thereby transmitting a path through each rail from each Led to the 8BA studs which are mounted in the wood facia and then to the battery.
More detail to come

Hi Mike,
I do like the idea of using the different colour plastic from the LED's and back lighting them with just the worm white LED.

Martin555.

Hi Mike, if you can use very small silicone shielding wire (like servo extension wire with one stripped off) there should be enough flexibility to not hinder the movement. Are you intending running all the lights at once,? I would suggest using larger LEDs and running them from small cheap voltage regulators as Stephen mentioned, (you would only need 1 and a resistor for the red LED lead. You can power the VReg from a 1s LiPo or similar, or you might be able to run a loop from your main switch to the VReg, (input voltage depending) so when you power on, your dash lights will come on, or use a remote switch.

You can have these anywhere in the boat as they are only about 50x 20x10mm) You would only need 4 wires going to the dash (link all the LEDs Except red) as a circuit on your dash then to your 2 power in wires + and -) The pos and neg wire for your red LED can go back on their own to your resistor with your VReg . You can then adjust the voltage/brightness of them all from your VReg.

Someone might be able to improve on that? Just an idea.😀

If you want to switch them individually, then you might have to look at Arduino controllers?

JB

Re- In my humble opinion 2 voltage regulators remotely mounted could supply the required 1.8 and 3.2 volts, just a thought.

That's all I use for my LEDs Stephen, just the $2 ones from AliExpr. You can adjust the LEDs for suitable brightness, no need for resistors everywhere. I use them for water/air pumps, LEDs, anywhere you need to adjust small voltages. Actually just ordered a bunch more recently,- very handy !

JB

Beautiful work Mike,

I wouldn't worry about the "some people say" you are doing something that you enjoy along with using your mind and keeping busy, bravo to you.

Funny how these jobs can snowball.

In my humble opinion 2 voltage regulators remotely mounted could supply the required 1.8 and 3.2 volts, just a thought.

Cheers,
Stephen.

Wonderful work you do Mike . Your skill sets are above and beyond. How do you work with such small items and get them to work.
Rick

Mike, you elec-trickery blows my mind! Awesome stuff 👍

This is the one area of the hobby I am simply inept at? Lighting wiring looms fill me with dread and is really something I need to learn more about. Watching you and Rob weave your magic, along with Dougs input has been very informative. I look forward to seeing how your instrument panel with the cheap n cheerful leds turns out👍

Hi Doug, so many questions but I'm not sure I have all the answers.
Two rails are the simple solution but at the moment the rails are joined by a strap but also they are bolted to the aluminium plate so the new design will have to be made from a non-conductive material, this will be Perspex.
However the wires need to be soldered to a "stationary" common positive + solder tag and also a negative - solder tag. In the photo the rails are running on the part that bolts trough to the dash support panel and will have a + and - power supply, this piece has to be mounted prior to the dash panel being put in its final position.
So all the wiring has to be done first, so additional stationary contact points need to be added, these will be pieces of the larger tube with a tag added and they will be glued into the top holes providing a stationary solder point. I'm working on this now and as soon as I have the job done I'll post some pictures which hopefully will show clearly the solution.
The dials so far have just been printed on paper but when pressed against the aluminium face are better defined however, I will try your suggestions of photo paper or transparent foil / decal 'paper' or indeed anything that may produce the effect I’m looking for.
Let’s wait and see.

Hi Mike,
Just Googled your LEDs
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-0402-Warm-White-LED-SMD-Ultr...
and they seem to be designated 'Ultra Bright'.
So I'm sure that the 'readability' would be improved by dimming them with a higher value resistor.
Cheers, Doug 😎

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-0402-Warm-White-LED-SMD-Ultra-Bright-UK-1st-CLASS-POST-/121783003829

🔗

I agree Graham👍

MIKE; you only need two wires going down from the panel; + and -.
Using the Micro Litz (so your LEDs came from Germany eh?👍) wires of the LEDs simply connect together behind the panel all negs and all possies, then just take two supply wires down below. You can use the offcuts of Micro Litz (or wrapping wire) for that. The LEDs only need a handful of mA!

I'm also puzzled by the 'paper encapsulated overlay' in front of the LED!
Surely that will simply act as a diffuser, so no wonder that the dials are not well defined.
If the LEDs are too bright, also making the dials difficult to 'read', just increase the dropping resistor in the + supply lead to dim them a little. They deffo look too bright to me 🙈
Suck it and see before going back to square one 😉
BTW: Are the dials printed on photo paper or transparent foil / decal 'paper'?
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Michael,

Nice work on the LED mounts for the dials. I agree with Rob, it should be possible to reduce the number of wires going to the panel. Depending on what the requirement is, you could get it down to as few as two, if you just want all the LEDs either on or off. Looking at the photos, you could also use thinner wire for the large panel LEDs making it easier to fit the panel.

Graham93

Hi Rob I have already made the replacement which uses two rails + - I'm just in the process of micro surgery soldering

Hi Mike.
If all the leds are on a common switched circuit why not use common supply rails to the panel for all so that you only have two wires. Alternatively you could reconsider backlighting the panel as I suggested previously.
Rob

Glad your fingers work for so small items Mike.I'd be in trouble just seeing that small an installation never mind trying to figure out the wiring.Well done.
Rick

Thank you mike,
It's great to be back.
I feel much better altho not 100%.

Martin555.

Thanks to all for your encouraging and kind comments, but more importantly welcome back to Martin I'm glad your feeling better.

Mike,
You are a true master.
It is a pleasure to follow your build logs.
I like the way you take the time to make and use Jigs to ensure that everything is lined up the same and identical.
Also i like the way you have made the mast plug in.
Excellent workmanship.

She is going to be another boat to be extremely proud of.


Martin555.

Really nice work as usual Mike.👍👍

Hi Mike,

Beautiful work, a bit of final assembly is a nice thing.

Cheers,
Stephen.

Hi Mike.
Very nice finishing detail 👍👍.
I really like the way you've made the spray rail and I wish that I'd laminated the spray rail on mine as it was a b***r to form the piece with three curvatures just by steaming. When I last looked at mine the spray rail had lifted slightly at both ends ☹️so I may have to re-make it using your method 😀👍.
Rob.

There you go with your lovely brass work mike, looks fantastic 👍

Doug I see what you were saying, it is a result of the angle I've taken the picture, from slightly above and the water line actually disappears onto the flat width of the chine (not visible) and reappears slightly further along giving the appearance of nearly thinning completely.

Hi Mike, Rob,
It wasn't so much the waterline being bent as such (but now you come to mention it 😁).
No. It was more the way that the Trim/Boottop/Waterline seems to shrink and distort as it goes over the chine rail.
Maybe an optical delusion as Rob says. A side on right way up pic would maybe settle it.
Seeing the problems this causes I'm inclined to leave my Sea Scout as just a pure blue hull 🙄
Or, apply / paint the trim line now and then fit the chine / spray rail afterwards.
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS Hadn't rated you as a Plonker Rob 😉 😁

Hi Mike.
I'm pretty sure your waterline is level, it must just be an optical illusion that the line appears bent because the eye perceives the chine and hull bottom to be straight and level...which it's not. You really have to 'sight' the line by looking from bow to stern to see if the line is straight or not.
I had a similar thing when doing my Police Boat too.
Plonking it in the water is the real test 😁.
Rob.

Hi Doug I see what you mean about the water line it does look bent in these pictures. I did as Rob does and used a laser to mark the line then followed the marks with the trim line in white, However even when I look at it it looks a bit odd depending where you look at it from. The final situation is - It won't sink even if the line isn't truly on the WATER - I hope. Ill try and doe some pics when I get chance - too busy in the garden at the moment.

Mike has done a fine job painting the hull 👍👍
And yes, you're quite correct Doug, my particular bête noire is getting the waterline marking to stay stuck around corners and over chines.
Sensibly Mike has ensured his is firmly fixed and then sealed with multiple coats of a satin lacquer finish. That'll do the job 😀
Rob.

Paintwork looks great Michael, 👍
Not altogether too convinced about the trim line over the chine though 🤓
Can we see it in side view right way up please?
Seems to be a perennial problem, which I'm gonna have on my Sea Scout as well.
Also one of Rob's pet hates I believe.
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Rob, that's funny I've been doing exactly the same, I am a keen gardener and grow all my own plants so this time of year is really busy and for some reason the weeds continue to grow despite my efforts to kill them.

Hi Mike.
Now that the Pilot Boat is finished I'm taking the opportunity to catch up with gardening, house repairs and decorating. I just spent the day in the garden and frankly I'm 'cream crackered' from all the effort 😀. Jet washing the decking and re-oiling it tomorrow. I'm still waiting for MC to deliver the next project, some last minute design changes I'm told so it could be a few weeks yet. Hoping to get some boating in with the club if we can do it within the restrictions 🤞😊. Rob.

That's right Rob I'm at the stage where I keep finding bits I've not finished and they then they tend to take longer to complete as I have to get my brain in gear as to where I was and what I did.
But I'm still really enjoying this build
PS I was worried you'd stopped posting but 'ha ho' here you are (when's the next project coming?) the site seems short of content lately or is it that you have left a great void?😜

Hi Mike.
More great progress 😀👍
Not far off finishing now?
Rob.

Hi Doug, Rob, thanks for your really helpful suggestions. As you will have seen in all my work I don't usually take the easy option, if I did I would have finished this boat and the crash tender a year ago 😊
Anyway to your suggestions I have considered the Perspex option and am currently carrying out trials to make this an option, this would also need illuminating so maybe an SMD.
Rob drilling through each "dial hole" although it would work it would also compromise the integrity of the wood even though I have hardened it, so I think that's not an option, It would have worked if I had used some aluminium for the top and veneered it, but unfortunately I didn't.
Doug the SMD LED option again under consideration I have ordered some from EBay so I'm waiting for them to arrive. I have a 6V supply which is located in the centre motor housing and this supplies all the Led lighting in the cabin and stern, so a supply isn't a problem.
So again thanks for your suggestions and watch this space.

Hi Mike.
Thinking about your lighting conundrum....🤔
As the LED's will only be lit when the switch is in the ON position why not just drill through all the dial locations when the switch is in the ON position and place a LED light source below it or perhaps a piece of Perspex that is edge lit. The supply can be taken from the LiPo from the switch, possible even without a resistor dropper as Doug suggested. I guess a lot of this depends on how much space you have between the top of the ali switch bracket and the underside of the wood top panel ?
Rob.

Hi Mike.
Wow...well you've really elaborated on my idea and it's looking really good so far, and beautifully engineered as we've all come to expect, but I can see that the lighting aspect of your design is going to be real challenge to incorporate into the panel. I'm looking forward to seeing how you accomplish that.
Keep up the great work 😀👍.
Rob,

Have you ever worked in Germany Michael?
They have a saying here -
"Warum einfach wenn es auch kompliziert geht?"
'Why simple when it can also be complicated?'
Nicely done, given the initial design premise!🙄

Re illuminating the dials:- 💡
How about fibre optic filaments?
Bundled together and taped to the top of a bright white (or yellow?) LED with reflective tape; e.g. chrome tape.
The LED can be mounted underneath the box/wooden top and the filaments (2 or 3 per dial) taken through small slots to the dials.
Alternatively: you could put tiny a SMD LED (ca 1mm square and 1/2mm thick) behind each dial, connect to the supply volts with wrapping wire. A fiddle to solder but .... you want small!! 😉 Where there's a will ... Michael! 😁
Cheers, Doug 😎
BTW Summat's gone wonky with your pics. Try deleting and reloading them.
Looking in the Edit box I can't tell which are the false ones, and the last time I tried to correct something like this by deleting ONE of the duplicates ALL the pics of the same image vanished 😭
BTW2: If you go the SMD LED way you can connect all four in series and feed 'em from a small 3S LiPo (11.1V Nom) without needing a dropping resistor. Then you only need to fiddle two small wires through to supply them. They'll only need about 25 -30mA so wrapping wire would be fine.👍
Or; two pairs. Each pair supplied from the same 6V source, e.g. 4 x AAA cells. Again no resistor needed.😊 Even 4 silver oxide button cells (1.55V Nom) would work for an hour or so if you want to save weight.

Hi Mike,

Amazing, beautifully done, though I think it could have been more involved for an on\off switch, haha.
Lovely work.👍
Cheers,
Stephen.

I can't disagree with more boats😁 however spray equipment isn't cheap and I think to pay out for a decent set can't be justified for painting model boats I'm fortunate that I already had the equipment but I have to say if I was painting a range of odd colours I couldn't justify a litre of paint so I would use rattle tins and if cost wasn't a factor rattle tins are easiest.

Thanks Michael,

I don't have the spray equipment. There is low cost kit available, however I expect you get what you pay for. It sounds like it is economic, but only if you have a lot to do in one colour. I want to paint the hull of my Cutter with three different colours. Looks like rattle cans will work out a lot cheaper unless I can find a use for the left over colours (more boats?!)

Graham93

Hi Graham, I tend to use where possible cellulose paints as I have all the spray equipment from my kit car building days plus its a great deal cheaper than rattle tins, although maybe not as convenient, so I tent to wait until I have a batch of spraying to do all together. I do use rattle cans for odd colours such as gun metal where you don't use a lot.
But to answer your question I spray both top and undercoats
PS you can get a litre for about £20 plus thinners @£12 which will make up to about 20 rattle cans

Hi Michael,

Nice result on the painting.

Do you apply the primer coats with a brush, or spray? Is the Appliance white also a commercial cellulose finish or something else?

I don't like using rattle cans!

Graham93

Lovely work Mike.

Cheers,
Stephen.

"That language takes me back 30 years ..."
That explains a lot Mike 👍 With me it goes back even further!
I first started fiddling with BASIC about 50 years ago! Tempus fugit!! 😮
First started experimenting with an ATARI 400 then 800.
Kids wanted various Game devices! 🙄
So I said OK but better (cheaper!😁) we get a computer that can play your games and much more!
So what happened? Kids got Game Boys and such and I used the ATARI to learn BASIC, create new Mario levels etc etc ...
Then at work I got my hands on an HP85 'all in one computer' with a tiny B/W display and a 4" paper roll dot printer built in. Nirvana! Remember the Ski game supplied with that?
Soon ran out of possibilities with that but then got my sticky mits on an HP8020 and a ca 18" touch screen display - yes, there were such things back in the seventies!
With that I started using BASIC to programme ATE systems, using the IEEE 488 bus, as it was originally intended by HP - GPIB.
For example; spent some happy times with the crew of the Radio Type Approval Lab of the then MPT (Ministry of Posts & Telegraphs - anachronistic name now!) at Waterloo House in London, programming an ATE system for MPT127 mobile radio approval tests.
That led to programming an RF monitoring system for them to assist with mobile surveys for suitable Cellular radio cell sites. Many happy days with a very likeable bunch of guys 😀
On the monitoring side I had an interesting interlude helping NATS (National Air Traffic Services) to locate the source of signals interfering with ATC radio traffic.
During a visit to the NATS Air Traffic Control Centre (then in West Drayton), which was shared with the RAF controllers, I was highly amused to observe, from the visitors gallery, that; on the civil aviation side all was brightly lit, and a few metres further on the RAF side there was no overhead lighting and operators were huddled over their displays, above the RAF side there was a banner saying 'RAF Controllers Do it In The Dark'.
Some things you never forget! 😉
On the cellular side I also had dealings with the then 'start up' company Vodafone, also helping them find cell sites and test / service cell phones. Why oh why didn't I buy shares way back then when I had the chance 😭😭😭
Also programmed the Radio Test Sets for PYE Telecommunications and others to match their products and the MPT specs of the time.
Got a lot of stick from my bosses for spending too much time programming for a few customers - but I had the last laugh!
My efforts, and a bit of luck due to the Falklands incident, meant that I earned, with commission, more than my immediate boss and even the division manager!
After that the Div Man changed the commission rules and I said 'Fine, toodle ooh.' and moved to Germany where they respected and paid engineers much better back then. Still here after 36 years!
Funny, one of my first jobs in Munich was to analyse and correct the BASIC program for a Cellular Radio ATE Controller, cos I knew the NMT, AMPS and TACS cellular specs!
I found that the set did all the basic RF, AF and data telegram tests well BUT forgot the initial Login data exchange test! If dat don't woik the Cell system won't know that the phone is there and the rest is 'for the cats' (as they say around here😉)
Ramble over 😌
G'night all, Stay safe👍
😎😴💤💤💤

That language takes me back 30 years when I was an instructor with the Engineering Industry Training Board (EITB) teaching CNC machining. The organisation still exists as ‎EAL: Part of "Enginuity Group" which is an employer-led engineering skills organisation supporting the engineering & manufacturing sectors.
I worked for them for 33years (that's great years)

Good to see you getting to grips with things Mike 😉👍
Your Op reminds me a little of the old BASIC programmes-
100 Variables; X;Y Z; ... // (Tools and materials needed)
200 FOR I=1 TO 22
1000 IF "this" do "that", GOTO, IF NOT ...
...
1100 GOSUB I, "DO IT"; TOOL = X; MATERIAL = Y;
1200 NEXT I
Etc etc 😁
Mucho metódico amigo 👍
Pretty good result too. Can you come and fix my fish cutter deck? PLEASE!!!
Cheers, Doug 😎

"glad to learn from a master craftsman"
Me too Colin 👍
When are you going to start your Master Classes in Vintage Model Boat Restoration and Display?
You can sign me up now please! 😀
Alles gute an die zwei Cs!
Cheers, Doug 😎

Very methodical work Mike.
Keep up the great work.
Rob.

Simply exquisite mike, that woodwork is class 👍

Thanks for the beautifully laid out instructions, life as a prototype engineer would have been so much simpler with such clearly written detail.
Your engineering background must help with your beautiful models.
Well done sir, keep us after school, glad to learn from a master craftsman.
Cheers Colin.

Chacun à son goût Mike 👍
😎

I have found some more information on the non existent Police sign, apparently there is still a craft in service with the Nottinghamshire Police force, so I may include something on my boat, since its builders choice.

Hi Jb it was Wink I dealt with, a very pleasant man

Hi Doug, the Aust site is very old (up to 2012) but appears to be still up, maybe they have the flags made by a German screen printer? Forum's still live but list of links is a bit glitchy. Probably haven't updated the site for a while. Funny how the prices are in euros. Just checked the OZ business register and they are still current in South Aust. Grise Wink (or the other way round) seems to be the only director.?

JB

Hi Doug yes I see what you mean on there home page it does in deed say Australia, however the return address on the parcel was Germany🤔 and looking back at the email correspondences he did make a reference to "we're setting up new equipment," this was in reference to a delay in processing my payment, He didn't want the money yet.🤑

Hi Mike,
I know AMP (Accurate Model Parts).
Have they moved house? 😮
I know them as an Australian company!?
Whatever. If they do the job ...
Looking forward to seeing them 'flying on the pond'.
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Doug, I'm not sure how I came across this company but they were really helpful. When I place a custom order they asked what size flag I wanted, after a week they sent me an email with a copy of the flag they would print and instructions to print it out and measure it to confirm the dimensions. They then printed the flags, yes plural, only having ordered one they sent two free of charge with the comment "just in case you make a mistake" the quality was great with instructions how to cut and seal the edges.
Highly recommended
I know some people use suppliers that hand paints them on silk but to be honest the definition isn't there and the colours aren't that vibrant, but each to there own.

https://amp.rokket.biz/flags_custom.shtml

🔗

Ich glaube dich Mike 👍
I believe you, there's a lot of clever niche companies over here.
Which company did you use, can you post the link please ?
Surprised you couldn't find someone in UK to make them 😮
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Doug, already got the flags printed complete with ensign, they were done in Germany would you believe.

When my curiosity is aroused Mike ...
Things that seem to go against the norm set me off 😉
Glad you liked it. Hope it's useful.
KUTGreatW 👍
😎
PS But don't forget the Met Police crest on the ensign!

Thanks for that bit of valuable research Doug its always appreciated, I had seen one of the video's before but my version wasn't as long as the link you found. great stuff.
Thanks again

Hi Mike,
Ref 'POLICE' decals-
Seems that for a period (ca 1977) this particular launch did not have POLICE on the hull!
See attached pics.
You might find some more pics / vids of interest here-
https://www.google.com/search?q=Thames+Police+Launch&client=...
Here are also a couple of UToob links about Met Police Thames launches.
No sound on the first one I'm afraid 🤔
They show some useful details though.
Cheers, Doug 😎

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=i69pxalB9-Q
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CB_RP6AdKt8

https://www.google.com/search?q=Thames+Police+Launch&client=firefox-b-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=U9AZPCd_bmMC8M%252CPvyYV0-ie1uTUM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTH-mTpryIjdH3T0Uy5laC7bg6YmQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwifzNPh_YDvAhXN-KQKHTsdCuwQ9QF6BAgOEAE&biw=1920&bih=936#imgrc=bCWvhPeoNGIBaM

🔗

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=i69pxalB9-Q

🔗

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CB_RP6AdKt8

🔗

Hi Mike, shall try your method of applying the white trim line this weekend, here’s hoping! 😂👌