So, in preparation for my next build which will start early November, I have selected the Sarik Hobbies hull and plan set for the RNLI Tyne Class Slipway Launch-able Lifeboat. At 31 inch length this model will work out at approx 1:18 scale and a nice size to detail and be easy to transport to the lake.

I shall be basing my model on on the Cromer Norfolk boat which had a white hull Below the waterline, common to slipWay launched boats. So far I’ve just about sourced all I need to make a huge dent in the build including several large sheets of plasticard in 0.5mm-3mm thickness And I’ve a large box of plastic strip, tube, rod too. I will need to source more brass rod ect for the stanchions and railings and a few other bits n bobs.

I’ve only managed to find one other build thread on this model and if I’m honest the builder made a decent job of his. Since finishing my Atlantic 21-75 hybrid, I now feel if have the confidence to produce another model involving 99% Making parts from scratch.

A very big thank you to Martin555 who kindly sent me a pdf of the build as it was detailed many years ago in a magazine. Once printed I’m sure they will be very helpful in my build......

My boat will have a crew of 3 “Star Wars figures“ sourced off eBay and at about the right scale, once modified and painted should look the part. So, watch this space for a start very soon, hope you enjoy it 👍

As it was a nice mild day with some good ambient light, I was given permission by the Boss to have an hour on the Tyne.

Looking at the hull moulding which appears to be a normal plasticard vac formed moulding, it was a simple task to use a permanent sharpie pen to mark the line clearly moulded ready to cut down. This was followed by a single score cut following the line with a brand new blade in the Stanley handle taking care not to slip and remove fingers! Once the entire circumference had been scored, I simply bent the waste back and forwards with a pair of pliers and voila the deck level cut away from the flash. This will be cleaned up flush not that it will take much once I’ve put in the 3mmx6mm deck support strips around the inside of the hull and fitted the deck.

It’s always a good idea to confirm the preferred glues will actually stick! Using a piece of the off-cut from the hull moulding I stuck a couple of pieces together using my favourite Revell plastic cement and it worked well.

Last thing today was to place the electrics inside the cavernous hull just to get an idea of the layout, will be a nice simple fit. Next job will be marking up the hull for the rudders, propshaft exits and P-bracket locations and to make, Mark and fit the slipway skids, tow hook and spray rails......

A nice steady Sunday start on the Tyne build.....

First job was to mark the rudder post positions and that ended up being the first and hopefully the only mistake for the time being! You may notice from the photos were I drilled the pilot holes for my original position, but on further studying the plan it was soon apparent to be wrong, therefore the holes were re-drilled in the correct position and the wrong holes filed and sanded back.

The rudder posts are supported but a piece of 9mm ply which has been clad with plasticard for neatness. I’m hoping to use next to no wood in the build, but if I do it will have a plasticard outer. Once that piece was cleaned up it was epoxied along with the brass nuts to the inner hull, should all be nice and water tight.

Next job and the last for today was to mark the positions for the propshaft tube exits and drill those. The 8mm dia brass outer tubes are being supported by plastic tube with 8mm internal dia. It’s easier to glue plastic to plastic and gives a neat exit out of the hull. The plastic tube was plastic cemented and then given a fillet of epoxy. The P-bracket is simply another piece of plastic tube and plasticard, it doesn’t offer a lot of strength but is more in keeping with the scale appearance. At the moment the brass propshaft tube will remain lose for final adjustments, drilling for the oiler ect but will be epoxied in when ready to fit permanently to seal it. Once all the propshafts ect are fitted I plan on making a box to surround the plastic tubes inside the hull which will be filled with “liquid metal” to make that area stronger, then the whole area will have a covering box over it which will house the rudder servo for a neat finish.

Tomorrow will see the other propshaft fitted, boxed in as described then start to make the motor mounting items.

Just a few hours of work over the last couple of days in between other tasks in and around the house.....

Both propshaft tubes are now fitted and correctly aligned looking from all angles. The brass tubes will be epoxied in once I’ve made the motor mounts and coupled them for correct alignment. Once the brass tubes are in there final position, I’ll box around the brass tube just behind the oiler and fill the box with liquid metal to ensure everything is rock solid and watertight.

I’ve made the servo box from 2mm plasticard with internal bracing for reinforcement and once that was cemented and solid, made up the pushrods from M2 threaded rod and metal crevices for a nice slop free connection.

That’s it for the next few days as on shift till and including Friday, more progress at the weekend ......

Trying to work on poor light is a pain, today’s weather has been dire and I hate working in artificial light, but we press on!

The motor mounts were made from 3mm plasticard and I used my home made rigid coupling to ensure everything lined up before cementing in the mounts. They’ve been braced on 3 sides and internally so should be strong as needed.

Next job was to make a supporting platform which the Esc,s will be fixed too and a raised box to house the receiver. My reasoning behind making a raised box for the receiver is two fold, first is to minimise interference from the motors and esc’s and importantly, to get the receiver above the waterline in the worst case scenario of the hull taking on water! Point to note is the receiver box is in rough form at the moment as hasn’t set and requires it’s final clean up before glueing to the tray.

Eventually, forward of this tray will be the battery tray and any ballast required will have bespoke plasticard boxes made and installed either side of the central trays in whatever position is required to get the correct ballast on the waterline.

That’s it until Friday......

I’ve had a few admin task this last few days with things like sorting dads house, putting it on the market for it to sell for full asking price same day....

Anyway, I’ve got some time spare so will push on. Today has seen the esc connectors soldered and hooked up to a 4S I had available on a Y-splitter to check rotation direction ect. Word of caution, this model will sail on a single 2S, if I was to run it on 4S it would shift across the water faster than Campbells “Bluebird” on Conniston Water!

The esc’s are mounted on spaced platforms with 3M double sided pads and a zip tie and I’ve started to fit the water cooling pipes. Everything will be neatened up once everything is in its final resting place. All I’ve got to do now for the cooling is drill the water outlet holes in the transom and find a suitable place for the pick ups behind the props. I shall hopefully get the prop tubes glued and boxed in tomorrow along with the battery tray and finalise the wiring and pipe work fixings.

A question for you wiz kids on all things fuses!?! Do I need to add 1 fuse to protect the esc’s or 2 fuses 1 for each esc? Can I presume the flow diagram would be motor-esc-fuse-on/off switch-battery? Once I know the answer will also build a mounting box for fuse holder/holders and switch. Cheers in advance for your input guys 👍

It is with a heavy heart that I have decided to shelve this model for the time being. I’ve not really enjoyed it and have a few things on going at the moment that is taking me away from committing time to modelling.

I’ve a couple of big projects lined up for the New year which include an untouched Model Slipway “Drumbeat of Devon” which I ready to start now I’ve sourced all the electronics and a Speedline Models 1:16 RNLI Shannon which will be ready to start as I’ve almost sourced all the required extras for this too.

In the meantime, wishing all of you a happy Christmas and a safe new year, and let’s hope these dark times end soon. Warmest regards, Sy