Hi Maverick,
I have been dealing with a company called Mack Products in NJ USA.
Rich is the owners name he also builds his own line of boats, plus sells many other.
He has been very helpful in powering my Typhoon.
email: bigrichmodels@optonline.net
Web Address: http://mackproductsrc.com/index.htm
Hope this helps,
Trev

Brushless are more of a high performance motor. I have a water cooled brushless in my Typhoon. It will turn 15K

Hi DamonH,
Re " I've always wanted to have a Flower Class on the water, but I've never really found the right model,"
I might have the solution for you😉
I just sent you a PM (Private Message) check the Messages box at the top of the page next time you're Online👍
Cheers, Doug 😎

I would add that a decent brass prop matched to the motor will considerably improve performance. I have a 3 blade 45mm on my Sea Queen from Prop Shop and it cost about £30 so you need to factor that into ChrisF's costs.

Ok, what I suggested to someone on Mahem and was going to use myself was:

Motors; Overlander 50/45 720kV or Leopard 5055 650kV. The Leopard being available from Component Shop.

Whilst there are many motor/battery combinations for smaller, lighter boats e.g. using 28 and 35 dia. motors etc. for a boat of this size and weight and requiring good planing performance then it is very limited. You don't want to go too low on the kV rating as then you will need more volts/bigger battery to give around 10k. rpm.

Add in the ESC at around £50 plus, battery and charger at around £40 each and you're looking at around £180 so far, plus the prop shaft, prop and rudder assuming you've already got a suitable Tx and Rx. Not cheap!

Chris

Yes, was going to mention that Dave. Unfortunately that motor is no longer available but was a bit of a monster!

I'll look up what I posted elsewhere and post it.

I suppose at a stretch the MFA 850 brushed motor would just about give acceptable performance if using LiPos instead of the heavy SLA I had in mine.

Chris

SLEC who sell the kit suggest
18in 4mm Prop Shaft PR830E
2 Bladed 55mm Propeller Thread 4mm PR834D
Extra Large Rudder 30 x 45mm PR833D
3mm to 4mm Flexi Coupling PR840D
Brushless Motor G60 500K
Speed Controller 100 amp with Reverse
Li-Po Battery 6s (22.2v)
I accept you don't want to go brushless but these are the specs for a 48 inch long Huntsman 31.
Dave

Dave
That is beautiful, I've always wanted to have a Flower Class on the water, but I've never really found the right model, the ones found have never been the right size to add a 😊smoke system and enable the gin to rotate, then lift and lower😊

Given what you said about using the fret saw the view about the size of the boat is a good one. I'm still pretty fit and strong but I sold my 47" Huntsman 31 as I found it too big and heavy just moving it around the house nevermind getting it in and out of the water, even if you remove the superstructure.

So I'm now building one and a Swordsman, amongst others, at a scale of 1:12, so 31" and 33", which are a nice size.

I was going to change the big MFA 850 motor and lead acid battery as the performance wasn't very good but sold it before doing so. I've advised one or two folks on what brushless motor and LiPo battery to use but as their boats aren't finished yet I can't report on their performance. But the guy who bought mine fitted a similar sized motor (but not available now) and it goes well - see photo. The motor, ESC and battery work out pretty expensive though. And you need a decent balance charger for safety.

Be interested in what plans you're got for the big Huntsman - the only ones I know about are from the kits? If you do want to build at 1:12 there are plans available which I could look up?

Chris

I've got to ask endurance to overpower... brushless over brushed, I've got to admit I prefer brushless, but am always ready and want to learn?

Hi Maverick further to my last missive, if you go for a brushless motor they are almost twice as efficient which comes down to twice as long on the water.
regards
Roy

OK let me ask this question, what's the most popular motor for a 40/48 inch boat and what size ESC please

Hi Maverick I sympathise with your situation. We could make some guesses for you.
Estimate the weight of your bost maybe 20 pounds all up. You will want it looking good on the water so about 70 to 80 watts input power. I would go for a 12 volt motor. The size propeller will decide how much current is taken. So lets go for a 45 or 50mm cheap 3 bladed nylon prop..
Current consumption at full speed 6 or 7 amps. this equates to 12 (volts) X 7 (amps) = 84 watts.
This should do the job.

Battery, well the batteries we need (not SLA) are rated at the 5 amp hour rate. This means that the capacity on the cells is 100% if drained over 5 hours, if it all goes in an hour then you will be down at 60% only maybe less and you will notice the battery gets hot, which is also power that should have gone to the motor.

So battery size, lets say you are a reasonable driver and not going at full speed the whole time. Let us aim for 30 minutes on the water. Battery average drain 5 amps. Lipos will give the lightest battery and can stand a heavy current drain I suggest 3S (that is 11.1 volts) and at least 5000mAh. You will need a charger to match as well.
With NiMh cells it might be worth going to D cells and a 10 cell pack giving 12 volts. But you could try the highest capacity sub-C ones. For cheapness maybe use existing 6 cell packs giving 7.2 volts and get a pair of them to run in series at 14.4 volts and an esc to suit maybe a 24 volt one.

So a cheap motor needs a lot of money to run it, you can now see why the advice is to buy the right motor in the first place! Also as the motors get larger so the shaft size increases and the coupling has to be more substantial.

The above is just an educated guess to work from. But it must be a £100 spend in all!
All the best
Roy

I have a number of different brushed motors. Cheaper and because it’s not a high performance boat, the brushed can motor seem to be the answer.

I’m doing a 1900’s bunker fishing vessel @ 36” Long, weight is unknown. I’m using a 540 motor at about 80 some odd turns. 2 bladed prop with a diameter of 1-1/4”. Moves it along nicely

But that was after trying different combinations
.

Hi Maverick,

There is conflicting info because there is no one answer, there are a lot of motor and prop combos that will work.

If the budget is tight maybe consider a smaller version of the Huntsman 48 inch long models are quite big in my opinion and bigger is more expensive all the way around.

For example a 24" long version would be getting a lot closer to the 500 can size motor as long as the weight is kept to a minimum.
So you could start with your 550 motor in a 24" long model, it will be able to move your boat though not at any real rate of knots and later when finances allow you could go for a 540 same size different windings i.e. less torque more revs or even better go for a 500 can size brushless, my preference is brushless outrunner and she will fly.

If you have a look in my "Boat Harbour" at the trials of my Piranha, I think it is on it's 3rd or 4th motor.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Stephen.

I hear what you’re saying these days. The only thing I can really suggest, make it easy to change out ANY components of the drive line….. just in case. Too fast, smaller prop. Etc.

If you come across a chart for: weight, turns, motor size, scale speed etc etc etc. Tell the world !

Good luck

I simply don't have the money for trial and error system🤔

I have been down this road myself. I was told it’s trial and error to find the right set up. My questions were: motor size, motor turns, prop diameter, # of blades on the prop and then there’s pitch too….
I spent a small fortune on a large assortment of “ inventory “…. What I didn’t use was stock for future projects.
If this helps, I’d be surprised

So much conflicting info everywhere.......exactly what spec of motor and ESC do I need for a 48 inch long Huntsman 31 please

Hi Steve
Not started the build yet just amassing info. I have the plane and templates to cut formers out, if my hand is steady enough with the jig saw, if I remember I'll do a build log.😀😀😀

Hi Maverick,
Have you started building the Huntsman?
Maybe do a build log so people can help along the way, there will be plenty of support, just a thought.

Cheers,
Stephen.

Hi Maverick
I suggest you look in the "Boat Harbour" section on the site and type Huntsman in the search field.
You will see plenty of motor types used. The more recent offering all seem to use Brushless but if you scroll down you will find brushed motors such as Torpedo 850.
As others have indicated you do need a large powerful motor for this size of model and a decent brass prop. Whichever route you choose there will be a cost involved.
If you are looking for really fast performance then brushless will guarantee success.
Perhaps try what you have then upgrade as you are able. Sailing your model will give you enjoyment and hopefully spur you on to improve what you have.
Dave

Thanks guys, this one will have to do for the moment to get the boat set up when built. What motor do you recommend for a 48" Huntsman, and how do I tell if any motor is suitable please.🤔

Hi all, a few years ago a lot of Johnson motors I suspect recovered from drills were on the market very cheaply and suggested for model boats. I tested one and the current was extremely high, it is just one away from being disposed of.

On initial starting it threw itself around on the bench. They have a sleeve on them and I do not think a Huco coupling would deal with the initial torque.
regards
Roy

For my 2 bobs worth I would say the motor is far too small to get a 48" Huntsman up and running at a reasonable rate.

The 550 in my opinion would power a Tug or similar with a large prop.

If you want to remove the gear try what Mike said though I would avoid heating on such a small motor, what ever you do don't put any pulling force on the bearings. If you can't move it then carefully grind down one side until there is very little material left and hopefully it will move then.

Cheers,
Stephen.

Trial & error see you in the Mad House.Merry Xmas!

"Or you could re-wind yhe drill motor? "
In theory yes Griss.
If you have the patience and dexterity to do that,
and still keep the poles balanced,
and know or can calculate in advance what torque and power output you want to achieve,
and thus how many turns of what gauge wire you need (to survive the current required),
then-
You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din
😎

Or you could re-wind yhe drill motor?

Hi drill motors are not the best for driving propellors as they tend to have fewer turns on the armature so that there is plenty of low rev torque. Model boat motors are better with many more turns on the armature as they like to have power come in when the revs are up,

Sorry to be a wet blanket but drill motors need power at very low revs to start turning a drill bit, whereas a prop turns easily to start with in the water. It will cost you a lot in battery power.
They would be suitable for model vehicles as they also need start up torque at the wheels.

When you need a lot of power with brushed motors it is a good idea to go for the highest voltage you can work with.
The reason is the power lost at the brushes. If you work it out the power drop across the brushes is I squared x R. If you can say double the voltage for the same power you can halve the current. So I squared is smaller and power lost across the brushes is smaller.

Best to go for a boat motor.

best regards
Roy

Yes, in a 48" Huntsman

Hi are you planning to fit the motor in a model boat?
Roy

Hi there, Ideally a pully draw is the ideal method however if you don't have one then support the gear with two strips of metal between the gear and motor then allow the motor to dangle in fresh air whilst supporting the metal strips either side and tap the motor shaft with a brass metal drift. A small amount of heat quickly directed at the gear will make the gear expand and hopefully tap off.
Good look

I think you mean a round ferrite core that your wires were wrapped around. In which case it was part of the motor suppression system in the drill.
The gear will be hardened and I have seen a fellow modeller use some hardened snips to cut off the gear.
I usually use a gear puller but you can make your own using some bent metal in the shape of a U with a slot to fit the shaft and a hole to take a nut and bolt drilled to take a shaft same size as the motor. I made mine years ago when building model train chassis.