I’ll be doing same. Using .080 plastic fir deck. Either plastic I beams or wood as you did. I have carbon fiber flat stock I used as cross beams on hull left too. I just was looking at layout n thinking the sonar dome in now I may fill up with Lead. As the battery pack will be midships n motor more aft. Guess I’ll water test with motor n battery pack just dropped in hull. Cutting deck today so I need to get the wood glue blocks on hull done faster as I’ll be needing to glue deck next week. It is slow going but fun n relaxing.

Hi Stephen.
Sorry for the delay but I attach the upturned flight deck of my HMS Victotious showing the supports I added to stop the deck flexing.
Supports made from Balsa and steel angled tubing.
Light but effective.
Regards
Bill.

Hi Stephen.
Been away for a few days so sorry for delay in reply.
I agree with Dave’s thoughts in general.
You do have a lot of internal room to play with.
I know you’re having problems uploading pics but would be good to see more.
My main concern is still the flexing of the deck with all the main superstructure on it.
I fear over time it is inevitable that there will be stress damage.
If would help a great deal with support added directly to the underside of the deck.(I had to adopt this with the flight deck on HMS Victorious)I will find some pictures to post.
Are you going to be motorizing the main armament etc?
I will think further and get back to you when settled in again.
Regards
Bill

Hi Stephen
Looking good.
I do believe you could open up the forrard bulkhead similar to that in the middle of the model. This would give you access to the forrard parts via the central opening if you decide to fasten the fore deck permanently, or it could be another lift off section. The second gun has a breakwater almost reaching the deck sides so would make a suitable place to make a break at the front. As you need access to the rudder and the deck seems clean of any fittings it may be best to leave as one piece and there does seem to be plenty of space below the deck to add some strengthening (if required) support ( possibly aluminium extrusion ?). Or you could make another cut near the rear guns and make a lift off back section, making three lift Off section in total. There seems to be ample room to fit the three motors and batteries etc. Neodium magnets would make ideal fixings and you have ample side supports and a hull side that rises to deck level so should form a good seal with a suitable sealant (silicon?). I use the magnets with tin plates (from ex flat sided baked bean cans). Cut a hole to take the magnet in one side of the fixing and glue (epoxy) in place and glue the tin to the other piece. It will form an incredibly strong fixing so experiment on some scrap and provide a means of breaking the bond without breaking the superstructure. I have used magnets in fittings that can be easily removed above deck. I'm sure others will supply their suggestions and you will be able to find a suitable solution. I do believe what you are considering is possible and look forward to seeing how you progress.
dave976

Here is me problem cutting the deck just behind the forward gun reduces the top deck by 7 inches and at the rear the same amount but I would need access to the tiller having issue up loading photos the boat is 51 and by 7 and half wide at the middle

Hi Stephen
having carefully reread your original post it would appear you have a hull with three prop shafts and a rudder fitted and a top deck that lifts off. Normally with a sailing model it is best to fit all the internals into the hull and test float to see how it floats and ballast accordingly allowing for the estimated weight of the topsides.
We really do need to see clear pics of your hull internals from stem to stern plus a view of both sides from the outside. We also need to see your topside build again showing from fore to aft both above and below the deck please. It would also help to know the beam internally. Very often on a triple screw model the centre motor is placed in between the the outer motors and usually this will be towards the stern in between the shafts. On my RMS Olympic this is certainly the case as per the attached picture. The motors are 555's and the beam is 12". Only one motor shown. I use three Mtronik 15amp Esc's all individually controlled.
dave976

When I get home will post some photos of what I had done with the model

Hi Bill
Nice looking model. Weight is always a problem with destroyers. My hull is from Deans Marine and Ron Dean always advised building light with the thinnest of plasticard. Glad to have helped you with planning your rebuild and look forward to seeing how you progress in due course.
Regards
Dave

Hello Dave.
Many thanks for posting your pictures of Grenville’s interior and whole deck removal.
Really good 👍.
In all my previous destroyer builds I have sealed the deck because of low freeboard and had access to machinery thru removing superstructure.
Some years ago I acquired a Pre built static only L03 HMS Cossack and am now thinking of making her seaworthy.(see attached pic)
Everything is over excessively heavily stuck down by who ever built her so I may remove the entire upper works including deck from funnel aft and build internally your way.
Really appreciate your time.
Regards
Bill.👍

Hi Bill (Scratchbuilder)
As requested I attach some photos of the inside of my HMS Grenville. Not been sailed for some years and pics taken in my lockup container so not the best but hopefully show you enough detail to help with your thinking. There is a sound unit installed hence the speaker under the front deck below the front topsides. The motors are (24v) from a mainframe computer but work fine on 12v. I have used 2 10 amp Action ESC's. The servo actuates a microswitch for the Action destroyer sound unit seen tucked under the deck forrard. I actually used two 12v 1.2Ahr SLA's.
dave976