Hi Duncan, my wife tells me I talk too much, seems like I type too much as well!
Roy

Thank you to everyone for their input. My question has certainly generated a lot of interest and useful discussions about different methods! I will now spend time finishing off the planking and will 'mull over' the different methods and make a choice. Oh and Roy, thank you for all your interactions on this subject - I never felt you had hogged the topic! I welcome
your's and everyone else's input. I'm sure many more modellers have also found this to be an interesting and helpful discussion.😊

I like your thinking LewZ, a model boat spends only a small part of 1% of its time in the water.

A model boat may indeed have more problems from direct sunlight.

There is a previously mentioned point about strength and that involves the other users of the lake. This especially applies to novice sailors, they know where the boat is but not neccesarily where it is going.

This also leads to how powerful a motor is needed. I go for scale speed but have a good reserve of power to stop dead in the water. A bit off thread, sorry but Duncan's thread has been very helpful in making up my mind.

I think I am OK with epoxy resin only as a finish as I make wooden boats. However, the current small yacht I am making requires the lead stabilising weight, which is located in the lower hull to be bonded into the hull to keep it in place. So for this I shall venture out into cloth and resin!

A friend has advised me the cheapest way is epoxy glue, which the local pound shop sells at £1.25, is a good way to go. I did repair a domestic item like this and my second attempt was successful.

I had been using similar principles for years but only for strength internally. That is ladies discarded stockings / tights and ordinary varnish used in much the same way.

Thanks for the advice, I apologise to Duncan for all my posts, did not mean to hog the thread but all been very useful.

You are never too old to learn!
Roy

Regarding whether to use the cloth or not. This is just my preference but I always would as it has lots of pros… It is easy once you get used to it. It helps give a uniform surface. It adds a lot of strength to woods like balsa and other softer types (but if anyone is worried about protection from their boat being hit by another - well it wont really save you from that resultant damage depending on speeds etc). I guess ultimately it is up to yourself. If you are after a beautiful wood finish maybe avoid the cloth as in the right lights and on close inspection you can sometimes still see some weave. Like someone said earlier maybe best to do a test piece and see what you think after that. Best of luck with it whichever route you go 👍🏻

Hi Roy.
I use halfords spray paint (cans) over my glassed hulls also with no problems. I have also used airbrushed Humbrol enamels. No problems with either. I also tend to use the halfords grey primer ( several coats rubbed down with wet and dry) as a base coat regardless of whether I am ultimately finishing with enamel or other halfords colours.

I have never used pigments to colour any epoxy resin I have used so I cannot advise on that one I am afraid. Cheers.

Clarification to my previous post where I mentioned "resin". I meant to say epoxy resin. My experience with sanding polyester resin is on the ugly side. Just using the word "resin" can be misleading.

Another thought on fiberglass is "how long is the boat actually in the water?". Not very often have I seen an rc boat in the water for more then an hour. Given this, unless your boat is a moving target 'glassing' the hull might be considered an over kill.
Lew
Florida ⛱️, USA 🇺🇸

Hi Roy.
I have successfully used Halfords acrylic car paints over the epoxy resins that I have used, I can't vouch for any others but it's unlikely to be a problem with any kind of paint.
I bought my initial supplies of glasscloth and resin from Easy Composites and they do actually sell a range of coloured and metallic pigments that can be used with their resins. I've never thought to try them though.
Rob.

https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/culr-epoxy-pigments-starter-set

Right! Next question:- assuming epoxy is dry can I use any of the usual paints on the surface, i.e. enamel, Halfords acrylic spray or even Plasticote?

Also do you have the option of colouring the epoxy resin before application?

Roy

Thanks for your informative contribution, IanL1.
You were timely and thorough with an excellent practical example.
In your case you certainly couldn't use fiber on the outside and you only used resin, so you had an excellent result from an aesthetic and practical point of view (strengthening the hull, which is never a bad idea).
However you did very well.
Now that I remember, RiverRat also made some great models by coating mahogany with resin.

Also thanks for the feedback on the specific commercial product (because when you have to make a purchase you never know where to start if you are not an expert in the sector).

Hi Roy.
Yes, I always wet & dry sand after each coat of epoxy. On my hulls there are usually at least two coats on top of the base layer with the glasscloth. And I use a progressively finer grade each time.
Rob.