I have some "in my cart" on Amazon, Thinking I'll give it a try. Thanks BobbyN.

Algon

They go hard but not brittle. The ones I have dry transparent. We, my building buddies and I, use this glue as our go to for attaching painted parts or anything to fiberglass. We had had excellent results with it.

Bob

BobbyN,
I have been curious about these "oily" glues. Are the a form of CA? Do they dry hard or flexible?

Hi

Try this superglue we have successfully glued all manner of things including leather and various metals. It is the best superglue I have used.

Perhaps worth a try.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009031492064.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.4f661802suoRXk

White lead is a salt.

White metal if a catch all for a wide range of metal alloys
Alloys can contain zinc, tin, lead, and antimony to name a few.
Many of these are toxic so are best avoided.

White lead is lead and zinc

When such fine detail can be achieved from even basic home made silicone moulds there can be no excuse for such poor quality products from any manufacturer.

I have also cast 54mm model soldiers from home made silicone moulds in my distant past, and the detail than can be replicated is almost perfect and usually only needs basic “cleaning-up” before priming and painting.

One of the classic model powerboats that I was restoring still had the original Chris Craft Corvette casting with it.

Those castings were so heavy and soft I think they must have been cast from lead and that was also very greasy and impossible to glue.

Most modern castings have some tin content and generally glue very well with super-glue or epoxy.

I have done a lot of moulding of lead soldiers and figures.
I use a mixture of lead and tin.
Using silicone split moulds I have got very good results with exceptional detail. I agree with Lew, his pictures show the work of a company that should not be in business.

Bruced, that's the same "company", HR Products. Interestingly enough for HRProd.com (HR Products) I found...
Registered On: 2000-08-28
Expires On: 2026-08-28
Updated On: 2024-08-13
The bottom of their pages have "2000-2005" and have not been updated.
...so this makes me believe that this is a scam selling crap to anyone that sends them their good money money. Note that they updated their domain registration last year to run another year. (See my previous post on this.)

Lew

I got mine from a HR kit for converting a Dumas PT 109 kit to a PT596 mid war. Kit. The HR company went out of business many years ago. My Dumas kit was made in 1988. So neither of 1:20 scale kits arent available anymore. So I'm fighting finding a glue that will work. That doesn't require hours of setup time. The bofur gun had 25 small parts to join together. I used CA glue to tack the parts. Then added epoxy. That didn't hold. So I used silicon glue hoping it will hold better then the different Jb weld epoxy especially. I contacted one of the epoxy company's tha swore there new rubber base glues would do the job. I used it on brass railing for one of my boats. It didn't work on my boat when transporting it to the lake. The brass railing joint broke. 3/16" Brass rod.

Out of curiosity, where did you get your cast fittings from? Years ago, when I built my 1/20 scale PT61 I purchased a set from HR Products. They were of the worst finish (I can't use "quality" here). The only good use for them is melt the material down for ballast. This was a waste of over $US 100. What a pile of crap! There is no way they could be proud of products like these. See the phots included here (and I already tried cleaning up many of them.)

Also, they were way too heavy, especially that high up above the water. I contacted HR Poducts but never got a response. I recommend staying away from HR Products.

I scratch built my two Bofors from styrene. As for the twin 50 BMGs, I bought them 3D printed on Shapeways from Patrick Matthews. Substantially better detail, considerably lighter, and easy to assemble (cement).

Lew