Doug.
Thank you.I knew it must be there somewhere 👍
Regards Bill.

Bill,
You can find the initial info on my PT109 here
https://model-boats.com/forum/33496#33496
Since than I have primed the hull ready for the Pacific green paint.
That's where it stopped 🤔
Cheers Doug 😎

Thank you Doug,
I will take a look.

Martin555.

Hi Bill,
I have published pics of two renovations / conversions.
One thread is about Colin's Taycol Supermarine restoration-
https://model-boats.com/forum/46155#46167
https://model-boats.com/forum/46155#46155

The other one is about my Taycol Target conversion.
This is embedded in my Sea Scout renovation Blog.
https://model-boats.com/blogs/28209#28432

Martin,
There are many comments on the renovations (not all relevant🙄) in both threads.
So, when I've got nowt else to do 🙄, I'll pick out the relevant stuff and blog it.
In the meantime; if you just search 'Taycol' in the Forum / Electrics section you will find lots of info on the old motas😉
Cheers, Doug😎

Hi Doug
Re I have published pictures before
..... I have trawled thru and can’t find them anywhere,and I am quite interested.
Now it could be me not being able to find them,but could you repost if you can.
Thanks Bill 👍

Doug,

Maybe you could do a little log/Thread on Vintage Motor Restoration.
I for one would like to see how it is done.

Sorry Roger for drifting off of your thread's topic.

Martin555.

Hi Bill,
I have published some pics (before and after) and description of works so far about two years ago.
Then everything screeched to a halt. Bin fiddling mostly with EU life after BREXIT, abode and electronicals and vintage motor restorations since then.
I'll get back to it sometime esp. coz I've already invested in motors, ESCs and gun kits for it!
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Doug.....I will shortly have the same problem with an ELCO PT boat I am converting to three shafts.
Doug do you have any photographs of progress pre conversation and work to date.
I am interested in this adaptation.
Regards Bill.👍👍🤓

Re Miracle Gro
For a moment there Bill I thought I must have written that and promptly forgotten about it 🙄😁
Could use sum o dat, my Azaleas and Rhodos are looking a bit peaky!
Maybe a quick charge from a LiPo would help? 😉
Cheers, Doug 😎

Well T33 !!!!!
I would never have dreamed of feeding my batteries on Miracle Gro for azalea,camellia and rhododendron.
This brings a whole new aspect to the ROOT problem of which units to use.
I may try it on my FLOWER Class corvette....Sorry !!!😂😂
Regards Bill.

My LiPo bank
All of which have their own charging and transportation bag.
All stored at storage voltage.

True Doug, that's why I mentioned using good batteries (not HK rubbish) and checking them after a run to make sure they are not getting too far apart as a pair. If you balance charge LiPo batteries every time, and put them in storage mode when not in use, they should hang in there quite well. My oldest battery is a 5s 20c 3000mA from 2010 and is still balanced perfectly, - not a lot of guts but still balances (perhaps only now good for a boat.)

HK used to sell good batteries 10 years ago, now they drop cells all over the place under loads and have nowhere near the claimed output/c ratings. I've given them up and am buying Hyperion LiPo S1 Graphene batteries now, which are guaranteed against defects. Few more dolleros but a 100% better battery. They have a removable balance lead as well which is a neat feature, keeps the mess down in confined spaces.

I think once people get into LiPos and are more confident with using them, they will find with care they are no more dangerous than car batteries (saw one blow the top open and shower acid everywhere in our workshop when on charge, and a welding spark hit it,)- far more disastrous, and the acid!!! rusted everything on the benches around it even after everything was washed. Luckily we weren't near it at the time, could have been nasty.

Charge carefully in a proper container or on concrete etc, balance constantly, storage when not using, and keep modelling knives and sharp objects away, ie don't poke holes in them! or it could get exciting! And remember, fire extinguishers do not put them out.

And also remember, (just to put things in perspective) the number of people injured by Minis worldwide (lighting a match to check the battery in the boot !) was quite astounding 😀

JB

Agreed JB, but that's a big IF!
Requires a lot of careful attention and TLC.
Especially as the batteries get older and manufacturing differences start to show up.
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Doug, if you have 2 identical batteries with identical lead lengths and voltages, there should be no problem, (commonly done in planes and cars) I used 2x 2s 1800 LiPos in series (using a Y lead) to get a small plane to 90 MPH with no problems as well as 2 x 3s 2200 in parallel in my MTB at one stage. As long as you unplug the batteries after running as an extra precaution it should be fine, (.2v difference is not going to cause a problem) as while you are running you are only discharging anyhow. Check voltages and recharge equally if required. Here's a good vid which might be useful



Like anything with LiPos, just exercise care, but if you are worried, your Idea is probably a good one. Just use good well balanced batteries, or if really scared, just use 1 big one, (although sometimes space won't allow) Other vid is from the 2 guys who did all the Hobby King tests.

JB

It is early days yet with my Pilot Launch, but I am using two batteries and two esc into brushless motors and all seems to be well. Both props rotating in the same direction and seems to steer as straight as a die. Hope I am not interferring?
Regards Geoff.

Glad to help. Dat's Y we're 'ere Roger 😉
You MAY get away with it IF your batteries are perfectly balanced, but that's almost impossible to maintain over time. A two port intelligent charger programmed for the same parameters for both batteries on a discharge / charge can help.
But even that can't really compensate for any minor differences in the battery production, which tend to get worse over time and number of charge /discharge cycles.
I will shortly have the same problem with a 1:35 model of an ELCO PT Boat which I am converting to three shafts. I propose to use three independent batteries; ~3Ah (3000mAh) each, i.e. one for each motor.
Three ESCs; one for the centre motor and two for the outers; either via a simple Y cable from the RX or maybe via a combo dual ESC / rudder mixer board. Budget may decide 🤑😁

Only problem with the Action Electronics board is the 20Amp limit.
I'm sniffing around for some dual Schotty diodes with higher Amp rating as an upgrade.
I'll let you know if I find summat 👍
Meantime, stay safe and enjoy your building, and sailing when you can 😀
All the best, Doug 😎

Thanks for that. They are apart and stored safely so looks like I've a spare y connector, for now I will go down the 5000mah battery route, I think until I become a little more experienced iwill use these two for my smaller single prop boats.
I've looked on the component shop site, and they seem to be out of stock. Maybe when in stock a project for a later update.
Once again thanks for putting me on the right track, if it wasn't for you knowledgable chaps us newbies would set the world on fire. I hope others reading this learn something aswell. If we don't know, we can't ask the right questions. Cheers Roger

Thinks!
Is anyone else going to warn Roger of the dangers of connecting two batteries in parallel, without protection diodes between them, especially with LiPos?
Or must I do it ... yet again? 🤔
Roger, you risk a fire in your boat, or in your home if you leave the batteries connected like that in the workshop 🔥😭
If the two batteries are not identical in type, condition, state of charge and voltage (which they almost never will be) the stronger of the two will try to charge the weaker.
So called Back Charging.
Depending on the difference between the two this can cause a very high current to flow.
Likely enough to melt the insulation and cause a fire.
This applies to ALL battery types, but the high current/power density of LiPos makes it even more important.
Solution is to fit protection diodes (fast Schottky type) between the two batteries to block the back charge current.
Simplest way to do this (if you don't fancy soldering up a little board yourself) is with the Action Electronics (now from Component Shop) parallel power board, P103.
But the diodes they use are only good for 20A I'm afraid! And you need more than that.
So in your case you'd be better off fitting a single higher capacity battery. 5Ah+.
With luck it will most likely be lighter than two 'half' capacity batteries anyway.
Better safe than sorry Roger😉
PLEASE disconnect the Y lead and isolate the batteries from each other, whether in use not!!
BTW: If I remember rightly you have 3 motors which will draw ~15A each at max efficiency.
Probably a bit more 'in the real world'. Let's say 20A each at full chat, i.e. 60A.
Consider a 6Ah battery in perfect condition and fully charged.
Theoretically it can provide 6A for 1 hour, or 60A for 6/60 hours, or 6 minutes.
So go easy with the 'right foot' 😉
Cheers, Doug 😎
https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p103-parallel-power-board.html