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Hi Kevin, I have had a lot of success with Tornado Thumper out runner motors paired with Fusion Hawk ESC. For a really exciting performance you could use a Tornado Thumper V3 4260/06 500KV - Brushless Outrunner paired with a Fusion Hawk BL 60A HV N6~18/Li 2~6 ESC, however it would probably be a little less exciting and more appropriate given the flatness of the hull when the Crash tender is on the plane to use a Tornado Thumper V3 3542/05 1250KV - Brushless Outrunner paired with the same speed controller. Motors are available at https://www.overlander.co.uk/motors/brushless-motors/outrunn...https://www.overlander.co.uk/motors/brushless-motors/outrunn... and the speed controllers at: https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/85116/ I appreciate they are not the cheapest of options but I have found their reliability to be second to none. Shaun
I was also at the Blackpool Model Boat show on Saturday and was quite impressed with the show in general, It's always very easy to criticise venues and I accept that the Norbreck Castle is not perfect but I didn't have any problem with the lighting nor the number of Traders or exhibitors, I do like the fact that everything is on one level and easily negotiable. I am amazed that there are comparisons with the likes of Ellesmere Port and Haydock Park in particular as I have been to both and find negotiating the various separate rooms and different levels a nightmare, I always leave both venues wondering whether I have seen everything. As a modelling fraternity we are in danger of losing these exhibitions and having to rely on internet purchases.
I have an original Aerokits Solent powered by two Torpedo 800 brushed motors controlled by two Mtronics 25 amp brushed speed controllers. I normally use two 8.4 volt 5000 mah NiMh batteries, although I have also used two 11.i volt Lipo's. The shafts are fitted with 50mm three bladed brass propellers. The boat performs nicely on the water. My stanchions are home made from 3mm brass rod with holes drilled to take 2mm chain. The stanchions are 70mm in lenght above the deck with approx 10mm below the deck, the base of the stanchion has a suitable sized brass washer fitted where it passes into the hull, the top of the stanchion is filed to a ronded profile. Shaun
Un-started 1/32 SCALE Perkasa Gas Turbine Patrol Boat complete and still in original packaging. This is the all wood version of this popular model boat kit. Full instructions and plan. Length 37 inches Beam 91/4 inches £55 ovno P&P additional at cost.
No excuse I know, but Adrian has been quite poorly and has spent some considerable time in hospital. He is now at home recovering so just keep trying, you are better contacting him by telephone rather than e-mail. Shaun
For sale is my " Maggie M" kit which has to go to fund my next Lifeboat kit. The kit has everything to complete the model including a brushed MFA 919D series motor with a 2:5:1 gearbox, coupling and brass propeller but with the exception of paints, crew figures, model filler, adhesives, Tools and equipment. To complete a fully working radio controlled model a minimum 2 channel radio, speed controller and suitable battery would also be required. The kit has been started and the pictures show the work carried out. The size and weight of the packaged model will make insured post and packing expensive so local pick up is desired with payment in cash on collection, but I am prepared to arrange carriage at cost. The price is £200 ono plus p&p if required.
Speedline are doing both a 1/16th and a 1/12th scale "Shannon". The development process is quite close to being finished and the first kits should be available in October for those who have pre-ordered. As Jarvo has said a very close to completion model was on show at Haydock Park and as usual from Speedline it is a work of art, the kit includes jet drives and motors developed by Adrian specifically for this kit. You can see quite a bit of information at: http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,51458... (you need to be a member to view the pictures) The kit won't be cheap and leans a little more to ARTR than previous Speedline offerings. Looking forward to mine!! Shaun
HI Steve, In My travels around the web I came across this: http://www.aero-naut.de/fileadmin/redaktion/downloads/en/anl... I, too was looking at it as a possible purchase (cheapest on the internet at Arrow Models £144-95p, £5 more if you buy it from same Company on E bay), bit nervous about the "plastic" material of the kit so decided to give it a miss. Suppose it would be possible to use the kit as a template to build in plasticard. Shaun
HI Bellman, Managed to get on the website and copy and pasted this information from it, no advance ticket sales. The Coalville Model Boat Show will take place on Saturday 9th & Sunday 10th April 2016 Address as follows Hermitage Leisure Centre, Silver Street, Whitwick Coalville, Leicestershire, LE67 5EU. Ticket price £4.50 adults, accompanied children under 16 years of age free. Weekend tickets are £8.00 Sorry, tickets can only be bought on the door, there are no advance ticket sales. Hope this helps Shaun
You don't say what mAh your 12 volt battery is, a 12v 4mAh lead acid battery will give a lot less run time than a 12v 7mAh one. Lead acid is probably the least favourable power supply for a 46 inch Sea Queen with a brushless motor, brushless motors tend to want to draw their power faster than a lead acid battery can give it which could account for the slow speed whilst the battery is still showing a high % of its capacity left. The Sea Queen at 46 inches is a big model and its all wood construction makes it a relatively heavy boat to move through the water, the prop size can also have an effect on the run time. I have the Aerokits Solent Lifeboat which is similar in size at 49 inches and weight, I run two MFA 800 brushed motors with three bladed 50mm brass props on 2 x 8.4volt NiMH and can achieve run times in excess of an hour, admittedly speed wise it isn't as fast as the Sea Queen would be. It would be worth looking at changing the Lead Acid to NiMH, say 12V 5000mAh (35 Amp discharge capability) which would improve things substantially, if you are a member of a club maybe someone with such a battery would allow you to try it out before outlaying the £40 it would cost for such a battery. Afraid I have never been a fan of LiPos but I'm sure that somebody on the site, maybe Dave M would be able to advise on their use.
In that case you can forget the Action Electronics diagram as its not appropriate for brushless motors. Your brushless motor will have three wires coming off it, The speed controller will have three wires coming off one side and two wires coming off the other side coloured red and black. The three wires will connect to the three wires on the motor, the colours of these wires are irrevelant and can be interchanged to change the direction of the motor as you wish and the two wires will connect to the battery - ensure the red goes to red and black goes to black. You may have to solder suitable connectors to the speed controller wires to make the appropriate connections. The speed controller will have a three wired connection called a BEC (battery elimination circuit) with a futaba type plug on it to connect to the receiver for the throttle channel. This saves having to use a separate battery for the receiver as power for it is supplied by the main power batteries. If you intend to use twin motors and speed controllers it is better to connect each motor and speed controller to its own battery. In this case you will have two connectors to connect to the receiver, you can purchase a "Y" lead to join the two wires into one. If you do this you should disconnect the red lead from one of the receiver wires to prevent damage to the receiver. You may if you wish disconnect both red wires from theses plugs and use a separate 4.8v/6v battery pack for the receiver, it is entirely a personal choice. Wiring of lights and other accessories is a separate issue. Shaun
Action Electronics provide a wiring diagram for the Model Slipway "Tamar" which can be found with the link below: http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/Model%20Slipway%20T... This is a comprehensive diagram showing the use of just about everything Action Electronics provide and is specifically aimed at using brushed motors, a lot of the stuff will be no use with brushless motors. Shaun
Depends on how you want it to operate - either using your radio or just by hand using a switch. Either way you will need to know the voltage it is designed to operate at as too high a voltage will blow the bulb and too low a voltage may cause the bulb not to light. Pretty sure the light illustrated operates at 3v. Using the radio can be achieved by connecting the light to a switching unit which can be purchased from Action Electronics which will come with full instructions on how to wire it. http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/P43.pdf The one shown in the link is for a single piece of equipment, others are available for two or up to 4 items. It can also be switched by radio using a micro switch operated by a servo but this can be a bit hit and miss. Switch by hand is achieved by inserting a switch ie micro toggle switch available from Maplins into the live wire from the battery. http://www.maplin.co.uk/search?text=toggle switch&x=0&y=0 Hope this helps. Shaun
Hi, Just followed your link and had a look at your build blog. Well impressed with the detail in the blog and how it follows a very logical sequence. Last post was August last year - is it finished now? Shaun
Wow, can't believe what seemed like a relatively easy topic has generated so much discussion - I really am grateful to everybody who has responded with so many ideas and fixes. My original concept was to have the switch accessible without having to take the superstructure off, for those not familiar with the Aerokits Solent it's a big boat at 49 inches and this makes the superstructure fairly wieldy. I have tried to come up with a way of disguising the switch with a kneeling lifeboat man or similar but have given up on that. My "fix" has been to replace the two small cheap and nasty switches with a single DPDT toggle switch mounted just under the front of the superstructure which is easily operable without completely removing it. Than you again for all the responses 😊 Shaun
HI Dave, Done a lot of work on the electrics since the original post. The working radar is powered by the receiver using the transmitter to turn it on/off so an extension lead has resolved that issue. The internal, navigation, mast and searchlight are now powered by a single 11.1 volt LiPo through an Action Electronics quad switcher which again has a extension lead fitted so overall I have gone some way to resolving the issue. I would still like to be able to turn off the receiver power without removing the superstructure beacause as you will be aware it is a bit unwieldy, however haven't found a place I would be happy to mount a toggle switch that doesn't look out of place. Work in progress! I am amazed at the amount of help and advice there is from so many people on this forum and also the amount of interest the topic has generated - thanks to all who have offered their wisdom.
Went to the Ellesmere Port show today and spent some time chatting to Adrian - firm order for a 1/12th scale placed and small deposit paid. Its going to seem an age until July/August when the first kits are expected to start arriving. Its going to make a lovely model and the 1/12th at just about a metre is not going to be unmanageable. Shaun