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๐ dutch sailing barge
3 years ago by
๐จ๐ฆ gerritv (
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Hi Ted
Near top of your page on this site you will see Messages, just click there. Should say something such as 1/4
Gerrit
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๐ dutch sailing barge
3 years ago by
๐จ๐ฆ gerritv (
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Ted, check your PM's, you have a message.
Gerrit
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๐ dutch sailing barge
3 years ago by
๐จ๐ฆ gerritv (
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I will find the scans of photos taken while my dad was building this one. Should have an album in the next week.
Gerrit
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๐ dutch sailing barge
3 years ago by
๐จ๐ฆ gerritv (
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The good news is that you can still sail on them, once tourism opens up again. There is a very active group keeping these ships afloat.
The last model my dad was building is a botter. Built out of teak. Mostly complete, he was doing the sails and rigging when he had a stroke. He built many models, starting in 1936 or so until 1983.
I really need to spend a week or so to finish the model, too many hobbies competing for my time at present.
Gerrit
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๐ dutch sailing barge
3 years ago by
๐จ๐ฆ gerritv (
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The site is part of the Dutch Model Builders Association (
https://modelbouwers.nl/). |
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๐ Are these any good
5 years ago by
๐จ๐ฆ gerritv (
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One thing to perhaps change is to run the small drills slower. I know the usual wisdom says to run at high RPM but without a high feed in rate to with it, the drills will just rub and heat up. Slower RPM allows hand feeding without that overheating risk. Feed pressure of course needs to stay within the limits of the drill size, a 1mm drill can only take so much axial load.
A side benefit in stainless is less risk of work hardening.
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๐ Are these any good
5 years ago by
๐จ๐ฆ gerritv (
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You are getting HSS drill bits (the ones from Microscrews are HSS) or you are going to try drilling HSS? HSS is generally rock hard and them tempered.
I will verify that the drills I bought from Microscrews work on Allen screws, I think I have already done that but will check.
If the screws are stainless, then it is likely that the screws work harden while drilling making the task challenging. Stainless can be a major pita to work.
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๐ Are these any good
5 years ago by
๐จ๐ฆ gerritv (
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Perhaps it is what you are trying to drill and thus using the wrong drill technology? if I can drill silver steel/drill rod and stainless all day long with them then it is not the drills. (My main hobby is machining)
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๐ Are these any good
5 years ago by
๐จ๐ฆ gerritv (
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Are the drills not sharp? Drilling oversized/undersized? I love mine, in steel (esp drill rod/silver steel), al and brass (although most drills unmodified are a bit grabby in brass).
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๐ Are these any good
5 years ago by
๐จ๐ฆ gerritv (
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Maybe but someone else had 8 years after her along with the union to get to today's place. Esp. in recent years the union demand history reminds me of Billy Connolly's Demands Keep Changing skit.
To the original poster, sorry for the diversion. I hope you are not disappointed in the drills!
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๐ Are these any good
5 years ago by
๐จ๐ฆ gerritv (
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At least you have postal service, the clowns over here arranged for delivery backups of international parcels well into next year. Can't even order from most places outside Canada as they won't accept post from overseas for at least another month.
When I do get to order from EU/UK, I save the VAT but pay it on shipping :-)
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๐ Are these any good
5 years ago by
๐จ๐ฆ gerritv (
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Those would not be HSS (which is rock hard in layman's terms). Any good quality drill bit will go through those. The ones from microscrews will work nicely.
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๐ Are these any good
5 years ago by
๐จ๐ฆ gerritv (
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I buy my small drill bits from
https://www.microscrews-shop.nl/ |
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๐ Equipment wire
6 years ago by
๐จ๐ฆ gerritv (
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Just to provide some more specifics on overall diameter, I have WW wire that is 30ga but the insulation adds variable amounts to that. E.g. one is 0.43mm dia, another is 0.75mm diameter.
The solder-able wire that I use is 0.15mm diameter. That is available here:
http://www.roadrunnerelectronics.com/epages/BT3782.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/B |
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๐ Equipment wire
6 years ago by
๐จ๐ฆ gerritv (
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The inards of USB cables is very small, and stranded. Often available for few $ at thrift shops.
I find WW wire (30ga) plenty robust for most things, used it a LOT in the 70's for backboards on mainframes. Solders very well. if the runs are long-ish then add a clip every few inches for support.
If you need really really thin then magnet wire would be your next option. There is solder-able stuff available where the insulation dissolves under high temperature. insulation is otherwise quite robust.
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๐ Plimsoll Line
6 years ago by
๐จ๐ฆ gerritv (
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By printing those photos on A4 you can use dividers and a calculator to determine the ratio between the photo scale and your model. You can then use that info to transfer the line location to your model.
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๐ Plimsoll Line
6 years ago by
๐จ๐ฆ gerritv (
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If you have access to the drawings, then measure in several places, level on the bench according to your marks and then run a pencil mark around the hull. Then you have a continuous line to align the tape with.
Depending on the hull build, you might have to measure down from the deck (My dad added .75" to the depth of hull to gain displacement for batteries etc.) This led me to measure from the deck line.
Once model is in the water, shift ballast around until it is level with the line.
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