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Maybe but someone else had 8 years after her along with the union to get to today's place. Esp. in recent years the union demand history reminds me of Billy Connolly's Demands Keep Changing skit. To the original poster, sorry for the diversion. I hope you are not disappointed in the drills!
At least you have postal service, the clowns over here arranged for delivery backups of international parcels well into next year. Can't even order from most places outside Canada as they won't accept post from overseas for at least another month. When I do get to order from EU/UK, I save the VAT but pay it on shipping :-)
I buy my small drill bits from https://www.microscrews-shop.nl/ Excellent quality. I use them in steel and stainless as well as aluminium. For brass I dull them slightly and keep in separate box. Are you drilling tool steel (aka silver steel) or High Speed Steel? Tool steel is no problem for the drills I buy above. His hardware is also of excellent quality. (I don't pay the VAT because in Canada, which offsets the shipping cost.)
Just to provide some more specifics on overall diameter, I have WW wire that is 30ga but the insulation adds variable amounts to that. E.g. one is 0.43mm dia, another is 0.75mm diameter. The solder-able wire that I use is 0.15mm diameter. That is available here: http://www.roadrunnerelectronics.com/epages/BT3782.sf/en_GB/... I still occasionally wire prototypes up using the Vector P173 wiring pencil :-)
The inards of USB cables is very small, and stranded. Often available for few $ at thrift shops. I find WW wire (30ga) plenty robust for most things, used it a LOT in the 70's for backboards on mainframes. Solders very well. If the runs are long-ish then add a clip every few inches for support. If you need really really thin then magnet wire would be your next option. There is solder-able stuff available where the insulation dissolves under high temperature. Insulation is otherwise quite robust.
By printing those photos on A4 you can use dividers and a calculator to determine the ratio between the photo scale and your model. You can then use that info to transfer the line location to your model.
If you have access to the drawings, then measure in several places, level on the bench according to your marks and then run a pencil mark around the hull. Then you have a continuous line to align the tape with. Depending on the hull build, you might have to measure down from the deck (My dad added .75" to the depth of hull to gain displacement for batteries etc.) This led me to measure from the deck line. Once model is in the water, shift ballast around until it is level with the line.