I found scrunched up aluminium foil worked well to hold parts in place while i soldered them. The aluminium doesnt take solder readily. It would also work for gluing if you are careful not to glue the parts to the foil Les
Don't know how deep it is in the middle. I think there have been a couple of drownings over the years. I take a reel of fishing line with me. My plan would be to enlist some help and take the other end of the line to the other side of the lake. Lay the line over the boat. Tie a duster to the end of the line and gently pull the line over the boat. I am thinking the wet duster would grab the boat well enough to pull it in. I haven't had to try it so I just hope it works if I need to use it. I also thought about getting a 5 meter fishing pole off Ebay but didn't get around to it. But as I said most of the time the prevailing wind is towards the more accessible bits
Hi figtree7nts, The reason it can pivot pretty much in its own length is because it is fitted with a bow thruster. In this case it's a Raboesch model The two main motors are Emax BL4030 brushless motors running with Hobbyking 90 amp escs. I power these with two 5 cell lipos batteries in parallel. The Raboesch bow thruster has a brushed motor rated at 7.2 volts and this runs through an esc for brushed motors. (I was lucky to have one ready after I converted one of my boats to a brushless motor). I power the bow thruster with a 7.2 volts nimh battery pack again left over after going to brushless and lipo batteries. Les
I have just made an anchor for my 49 inch Perkasa and attached it to some chain. I have sorted fitting the anchor to the deck but I could do with some advice about the chain as I don't want to mess the deck up with a failed securing method. The chain is usually shown in a v shaped run on the deck. What is the best method to ensure it stays in place? I am thinking small spots of epoxy on the chain? I assume superglue is too thin for chain? I have found difficulty finding photos on the web of the fittings for the anchor chain. Most photos seem to crop off the detail at the very front of the boat or are too far away to see the detail. I have seen a lot of models where the chain just lies there and it leads me to wonder what the anchor chain and rope would run out through on the real boats. I assume (maybe wrongly) that it would be necessary for the anchor chain/rope to run out through something like a fairlead? I havnt found a photo that illustrates this. Any help much appreciated Les
Was there any info anywhere online about what would be at this show? I did think about going but its a long way and I wanted to know about what exhibitors would be there. I looked but couldn't find anything
Can anyone tell me? Is the screw thread in a left hand prop a left hand thread requiring a prop shaft with a left hand thread? It is obviously preferable to have normal running with the tendency to tighten the prop on the shaft rather than loosen it. If a model has two props is it important for them to be turning in opposite directions or doesn't it matter? Les
Hi I use an Emax GT4020 brushless outrunner in my 49 inch perkasa. Its a single motor driving a graupner 55 mm plastic prop. The link below shows the boat running on a 4 cell lipo but I prefer using a 5 cell which makes it a bit faster than you see in the video. I think the motor comes in two Kv ratings. Mine is the 620kv. Using one 5000 mah 5 cell Lipo I get 40 minutes of mixed speed running including quite a lot of ripping around. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWKjv1gM93M Les
I am gradually adding detail to my 49 inch Perkasa whilst also having great fun sailing it. I have just made the Danforth type anchor out of brass soldered together. I am wondering how people usually fix this type of thing to the deck. I am wary of glue as I don't want the anchor to drop off if the glue gives up. Also if you use so little as to be invisible it may not be secure enough. My idea at the moment is to solder two 1/16 pins to the anchor and drill holes in the deck to accept them. If I slightly bend the pins towards each other they would stay in place by spring pressure yet be able to be pulled off the deck. The downside is the holes in the deck being a route for water ingress. Other peoples methods would be much appreciated Les
I am thinking about making my next boat a lifeboat. A Severn, Tamar or Trent. All appeal at 1/16 or 1/12 scale. I can see kits at Model Slip way and at Speed line. The speed line kits are much more expensive. Can anyone comment on building any of these kits and the pros and cons? Is it worth buying the more expensive kit?
I have just been out running my Perkasa happily blasting up and down the lake at full throttle for about half an hour until the battery cells went low and the ESC cut the power. As I was advised and since proved if left for a minute the battery comes back up again and I can usually tootle back to the side. I waited and sure enough got some headway but probably rushed it a little and the cells went low again and it stopped before I got it to the bank. I then found it wouldnt move after waiting and I had to wait for it to drift to the side. Upon investigating I found that the two 30 amp fuses in parrallel had blown. I cant understand how the fuses are ok blasting up and down but blow in a low voltage and low throttle setting. I replaced the fuses and everything works as it should. The only thing that occurs to me is if the ESC actually sinks power to prevent movement but that seems unlikely. The ESC is a 160 amp Aquastar Any ideas? Les
I have made 4 cleats for my Perkasa. I made them In brass and basically the bottom of them Is a 22mm x 8mm rectangle. My Inclination Is to use 2 part epoxy but I am not sure If It will bond metal to the hull permanently. Can anyone recommend a glue to hold the brass to the painted deck? Thanks In advance. Les
Following burning out the motor by fouling the prop on a polythene bread wrapper I fitted a new 160 amp speed controller and got a bargain motor from Giant Shark. It Is an Emax GT4020 which cost about £14. I realised what a bargain It was and went back only to find Giant Shark have ceased trading. The video shows the boat running on a 4 cell Lipo, It goes a bit quicker on a 5 cell that I have. I am really sold on Lipo power as Dave said I would be. I have just ordered a 3 cell Lipo for my crash tender
Thanks for the advice. I wont risk It. I was running the boat on two 7.2 volt Nimh In series and this Is what prompted me to wonder about using the Lipo. However I did find that compared to the old brushed motor, the brushless motor makes quite an Improvement on only one 7.2 volt Nimh battery. I have a pair of 4500 mah Nimh and I thought why not put them In parallel to get 9000 mah at 7.2 volts. With this configuration there was a noticeable step up In performance over a single battery which was a bit of a surprise because I was only expecting longer running time. I thought theoretically Its 7.2 volts on one battery or two In parallel but there Is a noticeable difference on two. Anyway I'm a happy boy now. Les
Having updated my old 34 Inch crash tender to run on brushless and nimh batteries, I am wondering how It would go with lipo's. (I was really pleased with the difference lipo's made on my perkasa.). The crash tender has a 60 amp Seaking ESC rated as suitable for 3 cell lipos. The motor Is good for 5 cell lipo's. I have a 4 cell lipo and my temptation Is to try that and perhaps limit maximum throttle on the transmitter. Has any one tried using an over rated battery or know If meltdown would Immediately occur? I know the right thing Is don't do It but I just wonder how much lattitude there Is with these things.
I was thinking a new motor was going to be about £80 but I looked on Giant Shark and bought a GT4020 out runner for less than £14. I tried It out today and It seems excellent value for money. It does come with an 8 mm shaft though which might cause coupling problems for some as I haven't seen any 8mm couplings anywhere. (I made an adapter). I have found that the speed controller runs It noticeably faster one way than the other. At first the better motor speed was reverse for the boat. I swopped 2 wires on the motor then the better motor speed Is forward for the boat but the transmitter joystick Is reversed. I will see If the forward/reverse setting on the speed controller addresses this. My final Issue Is the cut off voltage of the esc. It cut out In the middle of the lake. I did fit the warning beeper but with my hearing I have no chance. I haven't seen a parameter to set on the esc. Obviously It Is better to go to low power before stopping
Thankyou both for your quick replies It looks like another motor then. 😟 The ESC settings on the Aquastar 160 amp esc are Default Settings: - Battery Type > Auto Detect - Operation Mode > Forward with pause then Reverse - Acceleration > Medium - Forward Limit > 100% - Reverse Limit > 50% - Drive Frequency > 16KHz - Rotation Reverse > Normal What Is the drive frequency? I have the choice of 16KHz or 8 KHz Its amazing how difficult It seems to be to get useful Information. There were no Instructions at all with the ESC or the programming box. Just a set of specs on each.
Can antone offer advice on this please? Having burned out my speed controller when my boat picked up a polythene bread wrapper, I am busy trying to get It going again. The motor Is a brushless EnerG C50-20 and the burned out controller was a maytech 80 amp. It ran very nicely and the 30 amp In line fuse lived happily without blowing. (Until I picked up the bread wrapper) I have just bought a 160 amp Aquastar speed controller from Hobbyking. The motor will run but Is blowing the 30 amp fuse and sounds rough I Increased the fuse to 80 amp which Is what the motor Is rated at. The motor runs rougher In one direction than the other. The speed Isnt settled and the motor hunts around. Also more worryingly If I give the motor full throttle It starts smoking so It wont last long like that. I fear that the motor may already be damaged by the Initial mishap Can anyone tell me If there are any Issues using a speed controller with a large capacity compared to the motor? I would like to understand If what I have set up should run. Should any speed controller run any motor provided the loading Isnt exceeded? I suspect that the motor Is Kaput but I have a nagging worry that the new speed controller could have an Issue. Expensive lark this Isnt It?
Well Sods Law Rules. Took It to Cwmbran boating lake for Its 3rd sail on Sunday and It picked up a polythene bread wrapper around the prop which had the effect of causing the prop nut to tighten on the prop tube clamping the prop shaft and I fried the esc. I have ordered another esc and I am hoping the motor Is ok. A big thankyou to Cwmbrans duck feeders
The bit I can't understand Is that I was running the boat on 14.4 volts. I did nothing yet It cut out on the lipo at 3.3 volts per cell which would equate to 16.5 volts. If It had been programmed to do this It wouldn't have worked at 14.4 volts. Its as If It had auto programmed Itself.
This video follows on from my earlier post. I changed to running on a 5 cell lipo (18.5 volts) and I am very pleased with the Improvement over 14.4 volts Nicads. (Edit sorry Nimh`s) I put this link Into my reply on my previous post but It didnt work as a hotlink so I am posting this. The boat Isnt quite flat out here due to the difficulty videoing and steering. Les
Well I fitted the Lipo and tried It out and I am very happy with the performance. Its quite a step up from the nicads. The video link below shows how I fitted the battery and how the boat went. It Is plenty fast enough for my liking. In the video Its not flat out as I found It difficult to video It and steer at the same time. There was a funny situation with the esc though. I left everything the same as with the nicads and relied on the sensor to sound a buzzer. When I plugged the battery In the rudder worked Immediately but the motor would not run so I thought I had a problem but after a short while the motor started to work. I took the boat to the lake and had the same situation for a while. After the motor started working It ran faultlessly. I was listening for the buzzer to signal low voltage but the boat shut down. It responded enough to get It back to the bank and the buzzer was sounding now. I dont understand the delay In the motor waking up or how the esc shut the power down when I havnt programmed It to. It did shut down at 3.3 volts per cell. Anyway very happy performance wise and In view of the big Improvement I will probably go through the set up for lipo running now Heres the video link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dh0zhbRQQT8
Thanks Dave I understand the Importance of not discharging lipo's too much. However Ideally I would like to be able to run my boat on either the 14.4 volt nimh set up or the 5 Cell lipo battery that I have ordered. As you Indicated, I have ordered a warning device to attach to the lipo battery that will sound a buzzer at the low voltage point. If I dont put a battery cut off voltage In the esc and rely on the warning buzzer, will this be ok? I am thinking It will allow me to run either set of batteries. If I put the cut off voltage Into the esc at 16.5 volts for the lipo I Imagine the 14.4 nimh wont run at all. This would leave the only option of reprogramming the esc at every battery type change. While hoping for a good Improvement on lipo I dont want to waste perfectly good nimh batteries