Vosper MTB379

Started by mturpin013

13 updates 118 likes 42 comments

Torpedo tubes

These are essentially another box with a plastic tube on top. The boxes were first prepared by drilling a series of holes in the sides, these were done by clamping all the sides together then drilling through them all, this gives a nice clean hole which requires little deburring a simple rub across with a scotch brite pad removes any “fur”. Having cut all the pieces for the boxes they were all treated with a coat of “Ezy Kote” diluted at 50/50 with water. This allows a further rub with scotch brite before they are glued together in the same manner as the ammunition boxes using the heavy brass bars.
The tubes will sit on four curved blocks which are simply made by drilling a number of holes in a piece of 12mm MDF and the cutting them in half and trimming to the final profile using the disc sander, these were then glued to the top of the boxes

Now the torpedo tubes, these are simply styrene tubes cut to length and an angle of 45 degrees cut on the other end. The plain end was fitted with the back end of my medical injection tubes which give a nice authentic looking end to the tubes. There is a further tube to be added to each tube which represents the firing mechanism at the rear of the tubes this is attached using a hole drilled (using a slot drill) into each tube on the side and the small tube added and cemented with styrene cement. The whole assembly require metal rings around the tubes at various points for these I used “O” rings of varying sizes positioned and super glued. The four assemblies are then primed followed by a finish coat. All Items will be given a coat of satin varnish when all the painting of various colours are finished.
Liked by hermank and jbkiwi and
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Railings.

The boat has railings along the bow which are supported by 3 posts, and at the bow they are anchored into the deck and at the other end they are supported by the torpedo tubes.
We have additional rails around the bow gun turret again supported by eight posts and two rails. The posts were made from 3mm brass rod and 1mm rail. The posts were cut to length and the top end rounded in the lathe, I now have to drill 2 holes in each post in line with each other.
This is done by supporting the post on a 3mm wooden parallel which is fixed in the vice jaws, the first hole is drilled through into the wooden parallel on all eight posts and then a spare drill is pushed through into the parallel which keeps the post vertical allowing it to be moved along to the next hole position which is drilled through thus ensuring both holes are in the vertical plane, each subsequent post is then mounted on the spare drill while each of the remaining 7 holes are drilled
I then mounted the eight posts into 3mm blind holes around the perimeter of he gun turret where a 3mm brass washer could be soldered in position. A 1mm brass wire was wound round a former (coffee tin) to give an initial curve and then it was fed through the post holes making the join in one of the posts, this was repeated for the lower rail, each of the joints were then soldered. A final coat of primer and black paint completes the gun turret rail.
The bow rails were manufactured in the same way
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Ammunition cases

There are quite quantities of ammunition cases, which in the main are all the same but with some small differences. Each case is made from four sides a lid and base with hinges on one side.
The sides were all cut on the circular saw to ensure the consistency of dimensions, some were taller than others but in all the lids were all of the same dimensions.
The sides were glued together with the aid of some solid brass bars to ensure the sides are held at 90 degrees with the base piece inserted whilst the adhesive sets, a final trim on the disc sander to ensure clean sides, the insides are then given a coat of thinned Eze Kote before the lid is attached.
Finally we have something resembling an ammunition box; the lid being attached all that is required is the addition of some hinges.
The hinges are made from some “T” section styrene, to be able to cut a thin piece of the “T” a jig was made that held the section on all faces so it could be passed through the circular saw, we need 15 hinges in all, however catching them as they flew of the circular saw with increasing distance, I estimate I cut in excess of 30 collecting 15 of them from all over the workshop floor.
The hinges are attached to the box using a dab of super glue, they are then given a coat of primer followed by a coat of “sea green”.
In order to attach the ammunition boxes to the deck I drilled two holes in the base of each box and inserted a small length of dowel in each hole, holes were drilled in the deck using a drill template to make sure that the boxes sit in the space provided for each that will be masked when the textured paint is applied, they will then be finally glued in position.
Liked by hermank and Colin H and
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VOSPER MTB 379

The MTB is finally finished and sails really well apart from its maiden voyage when my Grandson (who's the boat owner) did a rather sharp turn at top speed in choppy waters which resulted in an upturned boat. However, it just floats so no damage just had to retrieve it with the rescue boat.
Liked by dave976 and hermank and
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  1. jbkiwi
    Fleet Admiral
    Nicely done Mike👍. Just a question/suggestion,- which way are your props rotating ? (looking from the back),- if they are rotating inwards, try swapping sides and rotate them outwards. Also try going down a prop size and reduce the rudder throw. This should help with keeping it up the right way. Also make sure it balances behind the center. Any of this obviously only applies if it's not set up like this now.

    JB
    Liked by hermank and stevedownunder
  2. mturpin013Bronze
    Admiral
    Thanks for your guidance JB , l have made the rudder throw smaller so we will see if that helps, if not we will try the prop sizes , Im away at the moment but I will check the prop rotations
    Again thanks for the help
    Liked by hermank and jbkiwi

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