Hull front and rear panels glued on, and hull glassed to the waterline. Remainder of resin applied to the exterior topsides above the waterline at the same time.

The sides are now glued on using epoxy with a filler powder to make it a glue, seals really well and is a good gap filler. Also bored some rough holes for the prop shafts, and glued on some flow directors for the props.

Making the inner guards (before attaching the sides) and making an alteration to the ally frame to make fitting the front axle easier. Offsetting the inner guards to let the sides in over the bottom floor. A large 5mm ply plate was glued to the bottom (pic 3&4) to mount the front axle on, rather than the inner frame. Raises the front slightly, taking the load off the first diff to make steering easier (both diffs fully driving would want to push it straight ahead, as they are not proper differentials, just fixed axles)

Found some plastic garden irrigation pipe saddles at the big hardware, which were exactly the right size for the diffs, so had a play fitting them at this stage, Also made a box for the diff heads to sit up in. While doing these jobs, I'm constantly working out what will go where next, and making sure everything will be accessible later (even certain screws. This is another of my 'chainsaw as you go' projects, which usually include many remodels and changes to make things work out.

Knees made for the floor ends and floor ends bent up and epoxied. Ally frame and running gear temporarily in place.

Decided to do something other than a boat this time, but still with a nautical purpose,- a 6 wheel twin diff twin prop swimming truck. Been done before, but I thought I'd have a go at one of my own design. Drew up some side and end templates and made a start, Purchased all the mechanical bits, (diffs, front axle, prop shafts, props, ESC, wheels,) over a few months from uncle ALI and added them to stuff I had in my collection.

Using cheap 3mm packing ply, I made the floor base ( to suit the diff and front axle widths) and strengthened it with 10x10 ally angle. Next,-cut out the sides and front and back panels. The floor was scored at the front and back to allow it to be bent up to the sides for gluing. Holes were cut in the floor to allow the diff heads to protrude through.

I had to modify the front axle to suit the width of the diffs by adding in an ally angle center section. Also had a play with setting the diffs and drive-shafts up with universals. Drive motor is a 380 1500 RPM @ 12v geared reduction drive, which is the one I first used in my Jeep tow wagon for my Hartley, (replaced it with a 1000 RPM version for more torque) and uses a 3s LiPo and Quicrun 40A ESC.