Well this Saturdays work went well. Got the whole boat fiberglassed with 2oz cloth and Total Boat crystal clear epoxy. Approximately 12 hours of work and wait time. I like this product, very easy to work with. I did the bottom and sides in 1 piece. The top in several pieces. And the transom in 1 piece. I will do a light sanding and apply the second coat. I also coated the interior cockpits with the same resin. The trick is keep it thin, really thin coats. I will do 3 coats and then start a finish clear (not sure what yet). Now lots of sanding 😔. So far so good! Thanks, Dave
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Well this Saturdays work went well. Got the whole boat fiberglassed with 2oz cloth and Total Boat crystal clear epoxy. Approximately 12 hours of work and wait time. I like this product, very easy to work with. I did the bottom and sides in 1 piece. The top in several pieces. And the transom in 1 piece. I will do a light sanding and apply the second coat. I also coated the interior cockpits with the same resin. The trick is keep it thin, really thin coats. I will do 3 coats and then start a finish clear (not sure what yet). Now lots of sanding 😔. So far so good! Thanks, Dave
The last week was putting a second coat of epoxy. Unfortunately I had the boat by a window and the cold weather caused it to "sag" and "run" on that side. So a couple days of sanding and today's work went well. Applied 3rd coat of epoxy and it laid down really nice. A few dust nubs to deal with. I will sand the whole boat again including cockpits and start hull paint. I am also going to paint the black accents with transparent black hoping that when in the sun the mahogany grain will show. At this point I am going to paint the red and black and apply the vinyl decals and then clear coat. Thanks again to all and to all a good night 😊
Dave
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The last week was putting a second coat of epoxy. Unfortunately I had the boat by a window and the cold weather caused it to "sag" and "run" on that side. So a couple days of sanding and today's work went well. Applied 3rd coat of epoxy and it laid down really nice. A few dust nubs to deal with. I will sand the whole boat again including cockpits and start hull paint. I am also going to paint the black accents with transparent black hoping that when in the sun the mahogany grain will show. At this point I am going to paint the red and black and apply the vinyl decals and then clear coat. Thanks again to all and to all a good night 😊
Dave
So...what's wrong with this picture? What is the best way to mark the waterline? I have retaped several times...just doesn't look right. Always Thanks...Dave
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So...what's wrong with this picture? What is the best way to mark the waterline? I have retaped several times...just doesn't look right. Always Thanks...Dave
Hi Dave
On the print it should give you a couple of reference points.
What you have done looks fine.
A sure way, and what I used to do with full sized boats, is to put them in the water and use that as a reference for the water line.
Good luck
Trev
Dave that is what I did, put all the stuff in the model,engine,battery anything else, I put tape along where I thought it might be, put in in a tub with water and
See how she floats ,mark the tape, and that is the real water line. Mine came out nice, with this method
Samc
I have the hull paint on. Primed and painted. Next the classic white stripe, black paint on deck, name on transom, then clear coat. Now I have another question. Should the aluminum trim that goes on all over this boat be cleared over as well? Its thin metal self adhesive backed aluminum. Thanks again, Dave
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I have the hull paint on. Primed and painted. Next the classic white stripe, black paint on deck, name on transom, then clear coat. Now I have another question. Should the aluminum trim that goes on all over this boat be cleared over as well? Its thin metal self adhesive backed aluminum. Thanks again, Dave
Well the black paint is on. This is a transparent black (doesn't show in the pics) but the grain shows in the sunlight. I really like it. On to stripes and decals. Slow but sure. Dave
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Well the black paint is on. This is a transparent black (doesn't show in the pics) but the grain shows in the sunlight. I really like it. On to stripes and decals. Slow but sure. Dave
Got the white stripe on. I use automotive pinstripe tape. Also got the name on transom. It is a thin vinyl decal. These will be buried in clear along with all the chrome tape. Starting on that soon... Dave
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Got the white stripe on. I use automotive pinstripe tape. Also got the name on transom. It is a thin vinyl decal. These will be buried in clear along with all the chrome tape. Starting on that soon... Dave
Hey Peter, I used Tamiya smoke color. It is used for window tint on model cars. I did three coats to get it that black. If you use it shake it forever before you paint or it's too transparent. I am using automotive clear coat from this point on. Hope only two coats. Update soon I hope. Dave
Today's work went well. I put 3 coats of clear on. It was a little tricky because of clearing the cockpits at the same time. All in all it went very well. It is dry to touch but I will wait 24 hours before I get into wet sanding and buffing. The old car and truck are another of my hobbies. They were in the back ground so I figured I would include them. Thanks, Dave
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Today's work went well. I put 3 coats of clear on. It was a little tricky because of clearing the cockpits at the same time. All in all it went very well. It is dry to touch but I will wait 24 hours before I get into wet sanding and buffing. The old car and truck are another of my hobbies. They were in the back ground so I figured I would include them. Thanks, Dave
Great job on the clear Dave, extra nice👍👍. A lot quicker than the 10 coats of varnish on my runabout which took weeks.
Love the vehicles as well. I used to have a 47 ford 'jailbar' pick-up with re-built 272 'Y' block and a 49 'Bonus built F1 diff. Unrestored (apart from the grille and front panel reconstructed from 2) and a bit rough, but a heap of fun, and far more useful then a modern ute like the Toyotas or Holdens down here.
The clear coat is spray max 2K glamour clear. Must shake this after activating for 5 full minutes (best to do 5 before and 5 after) for best results. It's awesome paint. Always wear protective respirator. It is a 2 part paint. Hence the skull and crossbones on the label. 1 can did 3 coats on this project. Thanks, Dave
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The clear coat is spray max 2K glamour clear. Must shake this after activating for 5 full minutes (best to do 5 before and 5 after) for best results. It's awesome paint. Always wear protective respirator. It is a 2 part paint. Hence the skull and crossbones on the label. 1 can did 3 coats on this project. Thanks, Dave
I tried a number of products, with a lot of sanding in between the coats. found out the 2 part stuff doesn't like me. I thinned it with what i read and saw on the internet. Wrong and the weather effected the finished, to much Humify.
I ended up using Minwax for outside, 2-3 coats. Looks great, I think.
All I read was you had to use the 2 parts stuff, or you would not get a good finish.
Its been 2-3 years now and still looks great...
I put a good morning together. Got some sanding and buffing done (didn't need much). Been drilling holes for M1x3 screws all morning. Adding details and working on final assy. This is the fun part 😁 The sun tried to come out so I got some shots outside. Dave
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I put a good morning together. Got some sanding and buffing done (didn't need much). Been drilling holes for M1x3 screws all morning. Adding details and working on final assy. This is the fun part 😁 The sun tried to come out so I got some shots outside. Dave
While I was resting...🤔 Worked on a fire extinguisher for the CC... Also a few other things...😴😴😴
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