I have had an interest in Dunkirk Little Ships since assisting a very good friend to move his from Cookham nr Maidenhead down the Thames through the City of London to Sheerness and out into the North Sea and up to Lowestoft and into Oulton. The trip which took several days is one of the most memorable of my life.
When looking for a new project and with 1/24 plans available for Bluebird of Chelsea which is also a Dunkirk Little Ship I decided to attempt this as my next build.
She was built in the early 1930`s for Malcolm Campbell the holder of many speed records on land and water and was 52ft long 11ft 4in beam 4ft 6in draught and displacement of 23.4 tons, powered by twin Perkins diesels.
She was restored after a busy life including sterling work off the Dunkirk beaches during the WW11.
If I can do the model justice she should be an absolute beauty to build.
I have made a start in the usual way by cutting the frames and starting the old favourite plank on frame.
Lots to do but the right time to get started.
Regards ChrisG
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I have had an interest in Dunkirk Little Ships since assisting a very good friend to move his from Cookham nr Maidenhead down the Thames through the City of London to Sheerness and out into the North Sea and up to Lowestoft and into Oulton. The trip which took several days is one of the most memorable of my life.
When looking for a new project and with 1/24 plans available for Bluebird of Chelsea which is also a Dunkirk Little Ship I decided to attempt this as my next build.
She was built in the early 1930`s for Malcolm Campbell the holder of many speed records on land and water and was 52ft long 11ft 4in beam 4ft 6in draught and displacement of 23.4 tons, powered by twin Perkins diesels.
She was restored after a busy life including sterling work off the Dunkirk beaches during the WW11.
If I can do the model justice she should be an absolute beauty to build.
I have made a start in the usual way by cutting the frames and starting the old favourite plank on frame.
Lots to do but the right time to get started.
Regards ChrisG
Apart from getting over a boring virus this week hasten to add not covid I have been progressing with the planking, the photo shows some not overly pretty work but it will look better soon, I notice in the background of the photo a tin of P38 which will almost certainly help me to achieve a smooth hull for painting.
I spent a happy couple of hours yesterday online shopping for brass portholes, stanchions and other pretty bits which I will hopefully have delivered before U.K. post goes the way of most other things currently, down the proverbial pan.
The important thing is I am engrossed in something I love doing and at the best time of the year to be doing it.
Regards ChrisG
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Apart from getting over a boring virus this week hasten to add not covid I have been progressing with the planking, the photo shows some not overly pretty work but it will look better soon, I notice in the background of the photo a tin of P38 which will almost certainly help me to achieve a smooth hull for painting.
I spent a happy couple of hours yesterday online shopping for brass portholes, stanchions and other pretty bits which I will hopefully have delivered before U.K. post goes the way of most other things currently, down the proverbial pan.
The important thing is I am engrossed in something I love doing and at the best time of the year to be doing it.
Regards ChrisG
Hello Trev, I certainly hope you are right, I ordered cedar strip specifically for this build previous to this have always used harder wood, I think cedar strip has many good points it will bend easily and is easy to work but the finish is rougher than expected. I am no purist and have nothing against the likes of P38 to achieve the finish I need in fact I consider it to be like the old caulking but have usually started the finishing process from a better place, we will see.
Best regards ChrisG
The planking is done but needs lots of `caulking` sanding and general tidying up I think I may apply some sanding sealer before sanding as the wood I have used seems very coarse grained and soft so this process would no doubt harden it up, either that or a couple of coats of GRP resin, to be decided.
Meanwhile Santa came early on Tuesday and bought me lots of lovely brass bits from Cornwall so I have decided to check these out and have started with props, shafts and making brass skegs and sorting this lot out. I also had delivered an HA boat stand which I am in the process of building. I like these and used one on the previous build.
I am really enjoying this build loads to think about and plan, I continue to be hesitant about the superstructure and particularly the wheelhouse and how much to reveal of `down below`hopefully it will all work out well and in proportion.
Regards ChrisG
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sanding and general tidying up I think I may apply some sanding sealer before sanding as the wood I have used seems very coarse grained and soft so this process would no doubt harden it up, either that or a couple of coats of GRP resin, to be decided.
Meanwhile Santa came early on Tuesday and bought me lots of lovely brass bits from Cornwall so I have decided to check these out and have started with props, shafts and making brass skegs and sorting this lot out. I also had delivered an HA boat stand which I am in the process of building. I like these and used one on the previous build.
I am really enjoying this build loads to think about and plan, I continue to be hesitant about the superstructure and particularly the wheelhouse and how much to reveal of
down below
hopefully it will all work out well and in proportion.
Regards ChrisG
Hello Colin
The skegs are soldered to 2.5m brass tubes within which is a 1.5m brass rod onto which the prop will fit. It is irrelevant really as I have decided that this is going to be a static display model. I hope that has not spoiled any enthusiasm for the build, I have lots of models with motors and r/c gear and rarely get to the lake to use them so it seems a waste of expensive electronics for no purpose plus it is a bit twee down below.
The props I found in my scrap box and are 30+ year old supplied by Billings, never ceases to amaze me what I have in various scrap boxes 🤣🤣 I bet you are the same.
Regards ChrisG
Chris, it's apleasure following your build. Static or rc, it's not important, just to see how it proceeds and finally finishes is what I like to see.
And yes I also have many boxes with obscure collections of parts in, some are from my dad's collection of might be useful one day boxes.
Carry on sir you are doing a grand job.
Cheers Colin.
I am tired of rubbing down and filling and finally called a halt to it and gave the model a coat of sanding sealer. Then fitted the prop shafts and rudder shafts then a little more filling and sanding before a coat of sealer/undercoat which always shows the missed bad bits.
I get a little peeved these days having to find paints that do not have unfortunate reactions with other paints, I like Humbrol finish and have used that for years since building railway engines but most outlets only seem to sell preperation paints of the water based variety, and that stuff in my opinion is a travesty. I did find something fit for purpose in the garage goodness knows how old it is.
I bit the bullet this week and started cutting panels out of 2mm ply as templates for the wheelhouse and other topside accommodation to make sure that they all look right before cutting out of mahogany. I think it will take much time and a lot of patience before this will be anywhere near finished, I am no cabinet maker!
Regards ChrisG
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I am tired of rubbing down and filling and finally called a halt to it and gave the model a coat of sanding sealer. Then fitted the prop shafts and rudder shafts then a little more filling and sanding before a coat of sealer/undercoat which always shows the missed bad bits.
I get a little peeved these days having to find paints that do not have unfortunate reactions with other paints, I like Humbrol finish and have used that for years since building railway engines but most outlets only seem to sell preperation paints of the water based variety, and that stuff in my opinion is a travesty. I did find something fit for purpose in the garage goodness knows how old it is.
I bit the bullet this week and started cutting panels out of 2mm ply as templates for the wheelhouse and other topside accommodation to make sure that they all look right before cutting out of mahogany. I think it will take much time and a lot of patience before this will be anywhere near finished, I am no cabinet maker!
Regards ChrisG
Coming along nicely. I agree with you about the sanding and filling - it seems to be a never ending job. It will look superb when finished I'm sure. I like yourself like the 50ml Humbrol paints but they are hard to resource. I've got a tin which I hope will be enough to do 2 coats over the varnish - which is below the waterline and slightly above. I would have been on with that now if hadn't been for my set back with the masking tape pulling bits of the varnish off! Sanding back the beautiful varnish finish was rather heart breaking! As someone said - that's modelling for you! I will follow your build with interest. Good luck. Duncan
I have `bit the bullet` and glued the ply fore deck onto the hull I just hope that I do not need access later, I always find this a difficult decision but one that has to be made if progress is to happen. My next task is to plank the deck, I was hoping to use teak to match the real thing but the cost even though the model is small is a bit above my budget.
I have some appropriate coloured planks in stock but they are about 6mm wide and I will have to trim them to the required 4mm. Not sure how I will do this but am going to try jamming the belt sander upside down in the workmate and carefully sand each plank to size.
I am sorry but I am going to close, problems either with this website, my laptop or user error, probably the latter.
I hope to continue later.
Regards ChrisG
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and glued the ply fore deck onto the hull I just hope that I do not need access later, I always find this a difficult decision but one that has to be made if progress is to happen. My next task is to plank the deck, I was hoping to use teak to match the real thing but the cost even though the model is small is a bit above my budget.
I have some appropriate coloured planks in stock but they are about 6mm wide and I will have to trim them to the required 4mm. Not sure how I will do this but am going to try jamming the belt sander upside down in the workmate and carefully sand each plank to size.
I am sorry but I am going to close, problems either with this website, my laptop or user error, probably the latter.
I hope to continue later.
Regards ChrisG
Hi not sure how long your deck planks are but I had a similar problem with a lot of planks. I made a sanding jig.
What I did was to get 2 old metal rulers and a suitable length of planking clamped thicknesswise and at 4mm depth, leaving a level 4 mm U section for placing planks to be reduced.
I used clamps at the ends and the centre section was clamped in a vice, so securely holding the jig together.
Insert the plank in the groove and sand or cut to size. Check the first one out is correct width as well!
It worked for me and I hope this helps.
regards
Roy
Thanks Roy
Never rains but when it pours, just went into the garage to find 2 metal rulers and the other bits to replicate your jig idea and one of the cables on the up and over door decided to give up the ghost and the door dropped pinning me half in and half out of the garage. A neighbour kindly lifted the door and rescued me, I could have been trapped for hours😠.
So at the moment no rulers, no jig, and no access to the garage plus a very sore back, I am thinking of taking up knitting.
Regards ChrisG
Managed to get into my garage and decided to reduce the thickness of the strips for the foredeck, liked Roy`s suggestion with the jig based on two steel rules which worked well but as I have a lot to do it was a bit of a faff.
So belt sander clamped in the workmate and having carefully marked each plank at 4mm proceeded to reduce the planks width. First few took time but the more I did the quicker and easier the job became ending up with the required 30 that I was happy with.
The only downside is that I have no fingerprints left on three fingers on my left hand😁
I intend to use a black felt marker to blacken all edges giving a scale caulking look when sanded.
Regards ChrisG
Managed to get into my garage and decided to reduce the thickness of the strips for the foredeck, liked Roy`s suggestion with the jig based on two steel rules which worked well but as I have a lot to do it was a bit of a faff.
So belt sander clamped in the workmate and having carefully marked each plank at 4mm proceeded to reduce the planks width. First few took time but the more I did the quicker and easier the job became ending up with the required 30 that I was happy with.
The only downside is that I have no fingerprints left on three fingers on my left hand😁
I intend to use a black felt marker to blacken all edges giving a scale caulking look when sanded.
Regards ChrisG
Managed to get a bit done this week, you know how it is, `shall we get some Christmas bits before the shops get busy`? don't know where everyone gets their money from I thought we were in times of austerity.
Anyway I went ahead with planking the fore deck and yes blackening the edges of each plank seems to give the desired effect hope it doesn't spoil itself when varnished. I have also started to make some of the hatches etc but am still hesitating when it comes to building the wheelhouse, serious case of `chicken` 🤣🤣🤣 I think a large scotch and throwing caution to the wind might help.
If anyone UK based is interested I put a small order on Cornwall Model Boats for some bits Sunday 27th pm and received the package Tuesday 29th a.m. that is Cornwall to Nottingham, I think that is excellent service by both the supplier and their carrier.
Regards ChrisG
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Managed to get a bit done this week, you know how it is,
shall we get some Christmas bits before the shops get busy
? don't know where everyone gets their money from I thought we were in times of austerity.
Anyway I went ahead with planking the fore deck and yes blackening the edges of each plank seems to give the desired effect hope it doesn't spoil itself when varnished. I have also started to make some of the hatches etc but am still hesitating when it comes to building the wheelhouse, serious case of
chicken
🤣🤣🤣 I think a large scotch and throwing caution to the wind might help.
If anyone UK based is interested I put a small order on Cornwall Model Boats for some bits Sunday 27th pm and received the package Tuesday 29th a.m. that is Cornwall to Nottingham, I think that is excellent service by both the supplier and their carrier.
Regards ChrisG
Santa and his little helpers has gone back to wherever for another year so time to start some serious modelling.
He did bring me some new tools that I needed to assist in making fiddly fittings and I have started by trying to construct some deck vents of the opening type. I have used 1mm brass rod for the vent protectors and hope that my newly acquired chrome pen will successfully change their appearance, never used one before and was only aware of them from an article on MBW.
Watch this space regards ChrisG
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Santa and his little helpers has gone back to wherever for another year so time to start some serious modelling.
He did bring me some new tools that I needed to assist in making fiddly fittings and I have started by trying to construct some deck vents of the opening type. I have used 1mm brass rod for the vent protectors and hope that my newly acquired chrome pen will successfully change their appearance, never used one before and was only aware of them from an article on MBW.
Watch this space regards ChrisG
even in my model railway days but this a bit fundamental and although I know this model will never stand up to close scrutiny, it should be right.
Decisions will have to be made at least I can still make the change, however like you I do think two rudders looks far more balanced.
Thanks again, watch this space regards ChrisG
I have had a very indecisive 11 days wondering, should I change the rudder set up on my model after such positive evidence that the boat should only have one.
Member "steamer" let me know of an article in Marine Modelling International which I sent for and there it was clear as day one rudder. I have had lots of advice from other members of MBW so the decision was really made for me.
So I reluctantly
bit the bullet
and made the modification, not too difficult really. So I can now proceed with the build.
Regards and thanks ChrisG
I now have the rudder problem sorted and in the process have acquired a back copy of Marine Modelling Int. which shows a build blog of a magnificent 1/12th model of Bluebird of Chelsea in fact 2 of them. This has come at a very good time as I was getting annoyed at my lack of progress since the start of the year and this has given me the encouragement to get stuck in.
As I was getting nowhere with the wheelhouse, it is so critical to the build and complicated that I decided to build the rear cabin hoping that it would help in getting the correct `look` and in perspective. The plans are great but I find that often ones eye is essential.
Anyway it is built and I am quite please with it, still need a finishing tidy and varnish.
A little tip, whilst pottering around and looking for a job I looked around the workroom for some dowel for the mast and 2 flag poles fore and aft. I chanced upon several small paintbrushes that had seen better days all turned from hardwood and the diameter I needed, I cut them off to length discarded the bristle bit rubbed them down and have ended up with freebie tapered mast and two flag poles.
Regards ChrisG
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I now have the rudder problem sorted and in the process have acquired a back copy of Marine Modelling Int. which shows a build blog of a magnificent 1/12th model of Bluebird of Chelsea in fact 2 of them. This has come at a very good time as I was getting annoyed at my lack of progress since the start of the year and this has given me the encouragement to get stuck in.
As I was getting nowhere with the wheelhouse, it is so critical to the build and complicated that I decided to build the rear cabin hoping that it would help in getting the correct
look
and in perspective. The plans are great but I find that often ones eye is essential.
Anyway it is built and I am quite please with it, still need a finishing tidy and varnish.
A little tip, whilst pottering around and looking for a job I looked around the workroom for some dowel for the mast and 2 flag poles fore and aft. I chanced upon several small paintbrushes that had seen better days all turned from hardwood and the diameter I needed, I cut them off to length discarded the bristle bit rubbed them down and have ended up with freebie tapered mast and two flag poles.
Regards ChrisG
Hello Roy
I will keep my fingers crossed that Martin Summers occasionally looks at MBW and I am honoured with an invite to see the full sized craft I am even prepared to pass on the tea and biccys. 🤣🤣
The paint brush episode just happened by chance and I thought it might help someone else, so simple.
Regards ChrisG
I now know why builders prefer 1/12 to 1/24 scale B O C
models to build. I have spent 2 days attempting to build the rear and two sides of the wheelhouse and have destroyed no end of mahogany sheet of both 1mm and 1.5mm sizes.
You name a method and I think I have tried it. I now propose to overlay hand cut 1mm strips of mahogany on top of the already cut but extremely delicate mahogany panels. I then wonder how I am going to fix the plastic windows with the sandwich, judiciously applied araldite as super glue will not do the job.
I am not sure if I am writing this for help or sympathy or just to relieve my frustration, I have even tried carefully drilling holes in the aperture corners and using a craft saw with 0.3mm blade to join the dots, several broken blades later and I gave that up.
Anyway, been out for lunch eldest daughters treat and refreshed will have yet another stab at it.
If at first you screw it up then try, try, try again. 😠😠😠
Regards ChrisG
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I now know why builders prefer 1/12 to 1/24 scale B O C
models to build. I have spent 2 days attempting to build the rear and two sides of the wheelhouse and have destroyed no end of mahogany sheet of both 1mm and 1.5mm sizes.
You name a method and I think I have tried it. I now propose to overlay hand cut 1mm strips of mahogany on top of the already cut but extremely delicate mahogany panels. I then wonder how I am going to fix the plastic windows with the sandwich, judiciously applied araldite as super glue will not do the job.
I am not sure if I am writing this for help or sympathy or just to relieve my frustration, I have even tried carefully drilling holes in the aperture corners and using a craft saw with 0.3mm blade to join the dots, several broken blades later and I gave that up.
Anyway, been out for lunch eldest daughters treat and refreshed will have yet another stab at it.
If at first you screw it up then try, try, try again. 😠😠😠
Regards ChrisG
Chris, I have come across this problem before, I glassed the back of my 1.mm timber with fine glass tissue and Ezekote. Covered over with cling film and pressed for 48 hrs till fully set.
Then cut out and build whatever needs to be built.
Hope that is helpful, Colin.
Hello Colin
That is worth a try but I am not very successful normally with GRP working, if I get more desperate than I was yesterday I might well give it a shot. I have managed to get the window frames and plastic windows in the back panel of the wheelhouse done today and they are ok, not brilliant, so I am going to go slowly and carefully words I do not usually use and proceed with the sides. The front 3 windows should not pose the same type of problems, said he 🤣🤣🤣
Regards and thanks ChrisG
