Hi guys,
This will be the first entry in another of my build logs. This time I’ll be showing my approach to building the Model Expo Steam Tug Seguin, a model that I’m sure many of you have built before, perhaps from other manufacturers.
Since Model Expo now holds the licence to reproduce the kit, they asked me to build the new and revised version.
Throughout this log you’ll probably notice that my techniques are not the most sophisticated ones out there, but they are simple and easy to follow—especially for anyone new who might be tempted to give this model a go.
To start with, the kit is a plank-on-frame design with nine frames that need to be pre-assembled, along with the keel bottom, stern post and a few other sub-assemblies.
For assembling the frames I used cyanoacrylate glue, which makes for quick, clean and strong joints.
One small tip: make sure to protect your plans with waxed paper, and use pins to properly align and hold the frame parts in place while the glue sets.

After identifying, numbering and gluing the frames together, you will need to cut and glue fourteen pieces of 3/32" square walnut stock to create the horn-type braces that will later support the bulwarks (the plank height).

I would recommend not following the blueprint measurements exactly, as they are a bit too short for when the planking is added later on.
As you’ll notice in the pictures, I made the braces slightly longer so they properly cover the horns.
Also, be careful when gluing these pieces to the frames, as they are quite delicate and can snap off rather easily.😎

After you have pre-assembled the frames, the next step is to build the stern post, according to the type of propeller shaft you plan to use.

The kit includes a very detailed stern post diagram, which makes this step quite straightforward to follow.

Before attaching the frames to the keel, you will also need to build a simple building jig to keep everything aligned during assembly.

This is the jig I made for the job.
😎

To assemble the frames to the keel, you should first glue the scribed deck to the subdeck, and then proceed with assembling everything together.

I actually made a mistake here by installing the scribed deck after the frames were already in place, which made things a bit more difficult than they needed to be.

Also keep in mind that at this stage you should install the interior mounting bases for your electronics, battery and motor before gluing down the stern frames.

In the picture you’ll notice that I used two zip ties to secure the keel to the building jig, along with a few Lyman weights. I found these on eBay and they’re extremely handy for many assembly steps when you need to hold parts firmly in place.

I actually made a mistake here by installing the scribed deck after the frames were already in place, which made things a bit more difficult than they needed to be.

Also keep in mind that at this stage you should install the interior mounting bases for your electronics, battery and motor before gluing down the stern frames.

In the picture you’ll notice that I used two zip ties to secure the keel to the building jig, along with a few Lyman weights.

In the last picture you can see the walnut horns left slightly long. These will be trimmed to their final size later on, but they should provide a very nice contrast once the hull planking is in place.
😎

The Stringers
To make sure the stringers meet properly at the bow, I added a small shaped horizontal support made from a bit of scrap wood, acting as a sort of extra frame to strengthen the joint.
And yes… before anyone asks, a few careful sips of whiskey were taken during assembly. It seems to improve both patience and alignment—though results may vary depending on the quantity consumed.
😎

Hull Planking
Now it was time to start planking the hull.
For this step I removed the model from the building jig.
After carefully fairing the frames, I began the hull planking working from the deck downwards.

As a general rule, I like to start the planks at the bow, unless the instructions suggest otherwise. Since the planks are butted edge to edge, the seams will remain visible, so it’s worth pre-fitting each plank and lightly beveling the edges before gluing them in place.

You’ll also notice another good use for my Lyman weights, which come in very handy for holding the planks down along the curved sections while the glue sets.
Once most of the planking is in place, you can go ahead and cut away the cross sections of the frames where required.

Before adding the final planks to the transom, you will also need to install these two support pieces, which will later be shaped to form the base for the planking in that area.
😎

Bulwark Planking
Now it was time to plank the bulwarks.

You’ll notice in these pictures why I mentioned earlier not to follow the blueprint exactly when gluing the bulwark horns to the frames. If you follow the plan as drawn, they end up being a bit too short.
Because of that, I had to improvise and extend them slightly to properly support the final three planks.

This is how the result should look when the horns are left long enough from the beginning. Once the planking is complete, you can simply trim off the excess and sand everything flush to finish the bulwarks.

After finishing the bulwark planking is also a good time to stain the components that will be added later, as well as staining the inside of the bulwarks before gluing the waterways in place.
😎

Correcting a Small Mistake

Here is another little mistake that I had to correct along the way.
When I planked the outer stern, I ended up cutting the upper section a bit too wide, so I had to trim it back to match the width of the rails.

These are the stains, paints and clear coats that I used on the model.
For the black areas I applied a black primer, while for the white sections I used flat white. To seal everything afterwards, I finished with a semi-gloss clear coat.

After sanding the hull nice and smooth, I noticed a few small cracks, so I filled them using this wood filler before moving on to the next stage.

Thanks for looking in and more progress soon.😎

Bulwarks:

This part isn’t too hard to build, as long as you wet the wood first and let the fibers relax a bit.
😎

LOWER DECK AND PILOT HOUSE

This is the approach I used to build the lower deck and pilot house.
1. I started with the front section of the lower deck, since that helps establish the correct width for everything that comes behind it. The same procedure was used for the pilot house.

2. I glued the outer thin plywood layer to the back of the pilot house before assembling it.

3. After soaking both the inner and outer pilot house walls in hot water, I wrapped them together while still wet and marked the window openings. You have to do a lot of checking while opening the window holes.
My initial cuts were made inside the pencil lines, then I carefully worked my way out by filing until both pieces matched perfectly.

4. I first glued down the inner wall of the pilot house and then the outer. Even after taking so much care trying to match each layer, a final touch with a file is still needed to achieve a clean fit.

Since the pilot house is a focal point, I decided to add some scribed decking inside. Notice the center post painted in black, as it will be visible through the windows.
😎

BOTTOM CABIN

Mark the position of all doors and windows on the cabin sides according to the plans.
Keep in mind that both sides are different, so label them clearly to avoid confusion during assembly.

Carefully separate all the doors from the sheet.
Leave the laser-burned edges intact—they will add depth and definition once stained.

Dry-fit all doors and windows to check alignment before gluing.
Glue the doors and windows in place before adding the scribed wall panels.

If your kit does not include finished window frames (as was my case), fabricate them using leftover door material, but the new improved model has them.

Add bottom rails to the frames for a more refined and realistic appearance.
Install the scribed wall panels, making sure everything lines up with the openings.

Use plenty of clamps to ensure a tight and even bond across the entire surface.

Add corner moldings and kick moldings to enhance the structure and improve the overall look.

Install the three cross braces at the top of the structure.
One of these braces will later be used to support and secure the stairway leading to the upper deck.
😎

PILOT HOUSE DETAILS
Wheel Stand
I started with the wheel stand, following the blueprints closely.

The side supports were cut and shaped, then assembled to form the stand structure.

The base was added to keep everything aligned and square.
Ship’s Wheel Installation.

The wheel was painted separately to achieve a clean finish.
Once dry, it was installed onto the stand and secured in place.
Final touch-ups were done after assembly.

Interior Details
The other items inside the pilot house include a bench and a small map cabinet.

These were built separately and test-fitted before installation.
Finishing Before Installation.

Before adding any interior components, I stained and sealed the walls and deck.
This step is important to avoid staining around already installed parts.

Final Assembly
Once everything was fully dry, I proceeded to install and position all interior details.
Adjustments were made as needed to ensure a proper fit.

Final Result
This is how everything came together inside the pilot house.
😎

STACK BUILD-UP AND DETAILS

Did a bit of extra work on the base of the stack, adding some detail not included in the kit instructions.

Step by step:
1. Cut two rings from 1/16" scrap, approx. 2 1/4" diameter (one for the top flange and one for the base).
2. Built up the inner stack base:
3. Added small 1/8" square braces inside the lower section
These act as supports for the upper stack section.
4. Glued the upper ring in place on top of the lower section, forming the first flange
5. For the bottom (the part that sits on the deck):
Added a wider base ring from 1/16" scrap
6. This gives a more solid and realistic footing
Cleaned everything up with light sanding to blend the layers together

Adding detail:

7. Marked out equal spacing around the flange
8. Used squared toothpicks to create bolt/nut details
9. Trimmed and glued them evenly around both rings

Finishing:

10. Sprayed the whole assembly with flat black primer
11. Sealed with semi-gloss clear
12. Light dry-brushing using black and a touch of brass to bring out the detail

Final touch:

13. Stack hold-downs will be rigged using the chain supplied in the kit.
Quite a straightforward mod, but it really improves the look of the base and gives it a bit more presence. 👍

😎

THE TINY SKY LIGHT

Next up, the tiny skylight.
This little blighter gave me a proper headache… mainly due to its size.

Everything is made from 3/32" basswood, so there’s very little room for error and it doesn’t take much to throw things out of square.

1. I started by cutting all the individual frame pieces, making sure the angles matched so everything would come together cleanly. Each piece was then drilled to accept the vertical supports.
2. The uprights were made from small brass rod, which not only adds a bit of strength but also gives a nicer, more refined look compared to wood at this scale.
3. Once all parts were prepared, I assembled the lower frame first, inserted the uprights, and then carefully aligned and glued the top frame in place. Definitely a job where a steady hand (and a bit of patience) pays off.
T4. o finish it off, I added some small detailing on the top to represent fixings/bolts, just to give it a bit more character.
It may be a tiny part, but once in place it adds a nice touch of detail to the deck.
😎

THE LIFEBOAT
Next up, the lifeboat.

This is a vacuum-formed piece supplied with the kit. The first job was to carefully cut the basic shape free from the excess plastic using a sharp knife. Take your time here, as the plastic is quite thin and easy to damage.

Step 1 – Cleaning up the hull
Once removed, I trimmed and cleaned the edges until I had a nice, even outline all around.

Step 2 – Ridge pole
The ridge pole was made from a scrap strip of 1/16" x 1/4", shaped to match the contour of the lifeboat. This gives the canvas cover a more realistic profile once fitted.

Step 3 – Canvas cover (masking tape method)
Following the instructions, I used 2" masking tape for the canvas cover — first time trying this method, and I must say it worked out quite well.

I started by laying down two strips of tape, adhesive side up.
Then I placed the lifeboat upside down onto the glued surface.
The edges were folded over, gently stretching the tape to conform to the shape — but not too much, as the plastic hull is quite thin.

Step 4 – Edges and border
I then trimmed the tape along the edges, leaving roughly 1/8" to form a border. This could also be done by adding a separate 1/8" strip, but trimming worked fine in this case.

Step 5 – Tie-down details
To simulate the canvas tie-downs, I cut small triangular pieces of tape and added them along the sides.
In the early photos you’ll see three per side, but I later corrected this to four for a better look.

Step 6 – Lifeboat supports
The kit-supplied supports didn’t quite look right to me, so I made my own cradle to better fit the hull and sit properly on the deck.

Overall, a simple part, but with a bit of extra work it turns into a nice little feature.
😎

LIFEBOAT DAVITS
Next up are the lifeboat davits.

Step 1 – Preparing the brass tubes
I used the 3/32" brass tubes supplied with the kit. Before bending them, I inserted a solid 1/16" brass rod inside each tube.
This was cut long enough to leave about a 3/16" gap at the tip, which allows room to later fit an eyebolt.

Step 2 – Davit bases
For the bases, I picked up four small plastic flanges (3/16" I.D.) from my local hardware store.
The openings were slightly too large, so I made some simple aluminium sleeves to take up the slack and give a snug fit.

Step 3 – Bending the davits
To bend the tubes, I used a small spring-type tube bender I had tucked away in one of my drawers.
This worked quite well and helped avoid kinks in the brass.

Step 4 – Installation
Once shaped, the davits were installed onto the top deck.
At this stage, I was quite happy with how they turned out.

Step 5 – Adding hooks/cleats
After gluing them in place, I realised I needed something to secure the cable ends.
So I made a few simple hooks/cleats from 3/16" brass rod, bent upwards and glued to the sides.

In hindsight, these would have been much stronger (and cleaner) if I had soldered them before installation.

Step 6 – Additional detail
The lattice work at the aft end of the upper deck is an extra detail I added after seeing it on another build.
It’s not part of the kit, but it fills that area nicely and improves the overall look.
😎

GALLEY STACK

Next up is the galley stack.
The main body was made from the 1/4" wooden dowel supplied with the kit, but I decided to add a small twist to improve the overall look using some leftover .010 brass sheet.

Step 1 – Painting the stack
The dowel was first sprayed with flat black.
Once dry, I sealed it with a semi-gloss clear coat to give it a more realistic finish.

Step 2 – Adding the top detail
After everything had cured, I cut three small pieces of 1/16" brass rod.
These were evenly spaced and glued around the top of the stack to represent the supports for the cap.

Step 3 – Making the cap
From a scrap piece of .010 brass sheet, I cut and shaped a small conical cap.
This was then fitted on top of the stack, resting on the three brass supports.

Step 4 – Final assembly
With everything in place, the stack was installed next to the galley area.
It’s a simple addition, but the brass cap and supports give it a much more refined and scale appearance.
😎

Steering Servo Covers, Davits and Stern Grating.

Moving along, I worked on the steering servo covers, the davits, and the stern grating.

The servo covers were made from 1/16" x 1/4" planking stock.
Simple parts, but they add a nice bit of structure to the deck once in place.

For the davits, I followed the plans closely this time.
They are made from 3/32" stock material and shaped according to the blueprints.

The stern grating was built up from strip wood, taking care to keep the spacing even throughout.
Once assembled, I gave it a light sanding, then applied stain and sealed it before installation.
After fitting everything in place, the whole area starts to look much more complete and in scale.
😎

Companionway

For the companionway, I started by laminating two pieces of 1/8" ply using a light coat of spray adhesive. This allowed me to work both sides together and keep everything perfectly symmetrical while shaping.

Once glued, I marked out the steps directly on the sides and carefully cut the profile. After separating the two pieces, I had a matching pair ready to assemble.

The side panels were then planked to match the rest of the deck detail, which helps it blend in nicely with the surrounding structure.

For the treads, I cut individual steps and installed them one by one, making sure the spacing stayed even all the way up.

After assembly, I sanded everything smooth, then painted the sides white and finished the steps in a darker wood tone for contrast.

Finally, the companionway was test-fitted and installed in position, tying it nicely into the deck layout.
😎

MAST, BOOM (DERRICKS) AND RIGGING:

I usually taper the mast using a powered drill, checking it constantly against the blueprints as I go.
Before starting, I wrap the end with masking tape so the drill chuck won’t leave any marks on the wood. I begin shaping with 80 grit sandpaper and then work my way down to 220 grit for a smooth finish.

The forward mast gets a ring around it. The old Seguin instructions suggest using paper wrapped around the mast, but instead I used styrene strips for a cleaner and more solid result.

Both the forward and aft masts receive three cleats along with the required hardware. I added these using small brass pieces and fittings to give it a more realistic look.

From there, I moved on to the booms (derricks), adding the end fittings and brackets, making sure everything lines up properly before moving into the rigging stage.

If you want to build this model as R/C, you will need to use an elastic material for the rigging on both the forward and aft masts so the upper structure can be removable.
I used a black elastic thread, and when stretched over the hooks on the masts, it looks just like black rope while still allowing flexibility.

Finally, I completed the rigging, keeping it simple and following the plans closely, making small adjustments to get a natural look and proper tension.
😎

Ship’s Name

The ship’s name is provided in the kit as a printed and laminated vinyl sticker.
It should be applied to a thin substrate (I used a leftover piece of wood) before installing it on the hull.
This gives it a bit more depth and a cleaner finish rather than applying it directly.

Thank you all for taking the time to follow along, and especially to those who left very positive comments.

I hope this build log gives a good overall idea of how to approach this model and can be helpful to anyone planning to build it.
😎