PILOT HOUSE DETAILS
Wheel Stand
I started with the wheel stand, following the blueprints closely.

The side supports were cut and shaped, then assembled to form the stand structure.

The base was added to keep everything aligned and square.
Ship’s Wheel Installation.

The wheel was painted separately to achieve a clean finish.
Once dry, it was installed onto the stand and secured in place.
Final touch-ups were done after assembly.

Interior Details
The other items inside the pilot house include a bench and a small map cabinet.

These were built separately and test-fitted before installation.
Finishing Before Installation.

Before adding any interior components, I stained and sealed the walls and deck.
This step is important to avoid staining around already installed parts.

Final Assembly
Once everything was fully dry, I proceeded to install and position all interior details.
Adjustments were made as needed to ensure a proper fit.

Final Result
This is how everything came together inside the pilot house.
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BOTTOM CABIN

Mark the position of all doors and windows on the cabin sides according to the plans.
Keep in mind that both sides are different, so label them clearly to avoid confusion during assembly.

Carefully separate all the doors from the sheet.
Leave the laser-burned edges intact—they will add depth and definition once stained.

Dry-fit all doors and windows to check alignment before gluing.
Glue the doors and windows in place before adding the scribed wall panels.

If your kit does not include finished window frames (as was my case), fabricate them using leftover door material, but the new improved model has them.

Add bottom rails to the frames for a more refined and realistic appearance.
Install the scribed wall panels, making sure everything lines up with the openings.

Use plenty of clamps to ensure a tight and even bond across the entire surface.

Add corner moldings and kick moldings to enhance the structure and improve the overall look.

Install the three cross braces at the top of the structure.
One of these braces will later be used to support and secure the stairway leading to the upper deck.
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LOWER DECK AND PILOT HOUSE

This is the approach I used to build the lower deck and pilot house.
1. I started with the front section of the lower deck, since that helps establish the correct width for everything that comes behind it. The same procedure was used for the pilot house.

2. I glued the outer thin plywood layer to the back of the pilot house before assembling it.

3. After soaking both the inner and outer pilot house walls in hot water, I wrapped them together while still wet and marked the window openings. You have to do a lot of checking while opening the window holes.
My initial cuts were made inside the pencil lines, then I carefully worked my way out by filing until both pieces matched perfectly.

4. I first glued down the inner wall of the pilot house and then the outer. Even after taking so much care trying to match each layer, a final touch with a file is still needed to achieve a clean fit.

Since the pilot house is a focal point, I decided to add some scribed decking inside. Notice the center post painted in black, as it will be visible through the windows.
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Bulwarks:

This part isn’t too hard to build, as long as you wet the wood first and let the fibers relax a bit.
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Correcting a Small Mistake

Here is another little mistake that I had to correct along the way.
When I planked the outer stern, I ended up cutting the upper section a bit too wide, so I had to trim it back to match the width of the rails.

These are the stains, paints and clear coats that I used on the model.
For the black areas I applied a black primer, while for the white sections I used flat white. To seal everything afterwards, I finished with a semi-gloss clear coat.

After sanding the hull nice and smooth, I noticed a few small cracks, so I filled them using this wood filler before moving on to the next stage.

Thanks for looking in and more progress soon.😎

Bulwark Planking
Now it was time to plank the bulwarks.

You’ll notice in these pictures why I mentioned earlier not to follow the blueprint exactly when gluing the bulwark horns to the frames. If you follow the plan as drawn, they end up being a bit too short.
Because of that, I had to improvise and extend them slightly to properly support the final three planks.

This is how the result should look when the horns are left long enough from the beginning. Once the planking is complete, you can simply trim off the excess and sand everything flush to finish the bulwarks.

After finishing the bulwark planking is also a good time to stain the components that will be added later, as well as staining the inside of the bulwarks before gluing the waterways in place.
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Hull Planking
Now it was time to start planking the hull.
For this step I removed the model from the building jig.
After carefully fairing the frames, I began the hull planking working from the deck downwards.

As a general rule, I like to start the planks at the bow, unless the instructions suggest otherwise. Since the planks are butted edge to edge, the seams will remain visible, so it’s worth pre-fitting each plank and lightly beveling the edges before gluing them in place.

You’ll also notice another good use for my Lyman weights, which come in very handy for holding the planks down along the curved sections while the glue sets.
Once most of the planking is in place, you can go ahead and cut away the cross sections of the frames where required.

Before adding the final planks to the transom, you will also need to install these two support pieces, which will later be shaped to form the base for the planking in that area.
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The Stringers
To make sure the stringers meet properly at the bow, I added a small shaped horizontal support made from a bit of scrap wood, acting as a sort of extra frame to strengthen the joint.
And yes… before anyone asks, a few careful sips of whiskey were taken during assembly. It seems to improve both patience and alignment—though results may vary depending on the quantity consumed.
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To assemble the frames to the keel, you should first glue the scribed deck to the subdeck, and then proceed with assembling everything together.

I actually made a mistake here by installing the scribed deck after the frames were already in place, which made things a bit more difficult than they needed to be.

Also keep in mind that at this stage you should install the interior mounting bases for your electronics, battery and motor before gluing down the stern frames.

In the picture you’ll notice that I used two zip ties to secure the keel to the building jig, along with a few Lyman weights. I found these on eBay and they’re extremely handy for many assembly steps when you need to hold parts firmly in place.

I actually made a mistake here by installing the scribed deck after the frames were already in place, which made things a bit more difficult than they needed to be.

Also keep in mind that at this stage you should install the interior mounting bases for your electronics, battery and motor before gluing down the stern frames.

In the picture you’ll notice that I used two zip ties to secure the keel to the building jig, along with a few Lyman weights.

In the last picture you can see the walnut horns left slightly long. These will be trimmed to their final size later on, but they should provide a very nice contrast once the hull planking is in place.
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After you have pre-assembled the frames, the next step is to build the stern post, according to the type of propeller shaft you plan to use.

The kit includes a very detailed stern post diagram, which makes this step quite straightforward to follow.

Before attaching the frames to the keel, you will also need to build a simple building jig to keep everything aligned during assembly.

This is the jig I made for the job.
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