This has been a labour of love for some time now and some of you may remember helping me in the past - well Im back for more help 😉
I will post some photos of what I started with over 7years ago (eBay purchase) the stage I got to over a five year period (in the Armed Forces then) and the point of resurrecting the boat from a damp garage after at least two years and to date where the plywood elimination issue was found and the position I to last Saturday.
What are my intentions - well the plywood has been purchased ready to make replacement parts and the scroll saw (never used) has been tested and some practice is needed.
Also purchased some templates of a guy on eBAY which I have since been told they are not that great - will let you know when I get them.
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Crash Tender Restoration after Plywood Delimitation
This has been a labour of love for some time now and some of you may remember helping me in the past - well Im back for more help 😉
I will post some photos of what I started with over 7years ago (eBay purchase) the stage I got to over a five year period (in the Armed Forces then) and the point of resurrecting the boat from a damp garage after at least two years and to date where the plywood elimination issue was found and the position I to last Saturday.
What are my intentions - well the plywood has been purchased ready to make replacement parts and the scroll saw (never used) has been tested and some practice is needed.
Also purchased some templates of a guy on eBAY which I have since been told they are not that great - will let you know when I get them.
You can also see the original engine mount which I have attempted to remove as I have issues with the motor alignment - still the case but I can't seem to remove the block without wrecking the hull. To be fair the hull is in a decent condition just needs gluing as the majority of glue has perished and become extremely brittle. Not complaining as this allowed the deck and superstructure to be removed quite easily.
The central piece of plywood fell out shortly after the picture 😰
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You can also see the original engine mount which I have attempted to remove as I have issues with the motor alignment - still the case but I can't seem to remove the block without wrecking the hull. To be fair the hull is in a decent condition just needs gluing as the majority of glue has perished and become extremely brittle. Not complaining as this allowed the deck and superstructure to be removed quite easily.
The central piece of plywood fell out shortly after the picture 😰
After the other weekends work stripping back the deck and superstructure this is what I'm left with. I think the glue removal is the next task and a check of the hull alignment. I'm not 100% sure whether simply scrapping off the glue will be enough to provide a suitable key when replacing the deck or whether I need to sand down as well?
I purchased the plans from the guy on eBAy for 15 pound and to be honest they're not that bad but I'm using the original superstructure as the template simply done the fact it was easier than cutting the paper ones.
Although the overall plan and original instructions are of good quality, I have found the templates not to be that great and have found myself redoing the wheelhouse front deck area twice now as they are not suited in either size or shape to my models super structure - not sure why though as would have expected all keilcraft models to be produced the same.
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After the other weekends work stripping back the deck and superstructure this is what I'm left with. I think the glue removal is the next task and a check of the hull alignment. I'm not 100% sure whether simply scrapping off the glue will be enough to provide a suitable key when replacing the deck or whether I need to sand down as well?
I purchased the plans from the guy on eBAy for 15 pound and to be honest they're not that bad but I'm using the original superstructure as the template simply done the fact it was easier than cutting the paper ones.
Although the overall plan and original instructions are of good quality, I have found the templates not to be that great and have found myself redoing the wheelhouse front deck area twice now as they are not suited in either size or shape to my models super structure - not sure why though as would have expected all keilcraft models to be produced the same.
I don't know of a KeilCraft crash tender, the most popular production was the 34" version by Aerokits, long since departed. The model is well suited to modern electric propulsion because of great improvements in batteries and motors.
The number surviving show the popularity of the craft which was made for the emerging market of small Diesel engines in the early 1960's.
All Aerokits were marketed by KeilKraft.
Mine came for Christmas 1963, complete with REP single channel radio and a Taycol Supermarine Special motor.
I really must get round to finishing it one day!
It goes with my 1959 Sea Urchin, which I restored last year! Both models have their original motors and running gear.
This little beast has given me so many problems over the years and still causing me concern now. The engine mount I am sure is the route of all my problems with engine alignment. I don't know what wood this thing is made from but I cannot separate it from the engine base mount. I have attacked it with a chisel in the past as you can probably see but nothing seems to separate it. With all the issues having had the boat in a damp garage and now the dried out glue, split plywood I am unsure whether to attack the mount with a chisel again.
Any good ideas out there?
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This little beast has given me so many problems over the years and still causing me concern now. The engine mount I am sure is the route of all my problems with engine alignment. I don't know what wood this thing is made from but I cannot separate it from the engine base mount. I have attacked it with a chisel in the past as you can probably see but nothing seems to separate it. With all the issues having had the boat in a damp garage and now the dried out glue, split plywood I am unsure whether to attack the mount with a chisel again.
Any good ideas out there?
HI Neil
If this is an original Aerokits model from the early 1960's it's probable that the glue used was a hot melt glue that I used to use. I believe it was af animal origin and I used to have a glue pot that was heated over the paraffin stove.
It was very good for wood joints and relatively quick setting compared to what was available.
As the glue will now be rock hard I suspect you will need to have lots of heat available. The secret will be to get the block of wood up to heat and then work round the edges where it joins the hull. To prevent burning the hull make sure you keep the heat moving to avoid any hot spots.
I have an adjustable heat gun with a quite low setting and believe careful adjustment would achieve the desired amount of heat. Be prepared for a slow process as the original glue used to take a while (1/2 hour) to melt.
I wish I had tried this on my model.
Good de gluing
Dave 😀
Well managed to master the scroll saw after snapping a few blades simply down to never having used one before and no instructions on how to fit the blade or use the tensioner (eBay's great)
I've managed to cut out the side pieces and slow and easy does it won the day. I've put both old and new in the photo just for comparison and also to show some of the delimitation issue I had.
Not looking forward to cutting out the window area though.
Another question for you all though - does anyone know how to manufacture the white window surrounds or even better anyone who's selling them for a 34" Crash Tender?
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Well managed to master the scroll saw after snapping a few blades simply down to never having used one before and no instructions on how to fit the blade or use the tensioner (eBay's great)
I've managed to cut out the side pieces and slow and easy does it won the day. I've put both old and new in the photo just for comparison and also to show some of the delimitation issue I had.
Not looking forward to cutting out the window area though.
Another question for you all though - does anyone know how to manufacture the white window surrounds or even better anyone who's selling them for a 34" Crash Tender?
HI there. reference to window frames for fire boats, I have build 48' and 36" models and have had the frames cut in an aluminium effect self adhesive material by Yatton Model Engineering in Somerset. They will include the glazing if required. regards Peter.
Well after some issues with the scroll saw not cutting straight lines I resulted to clamping the side pieces between two pieces of wood and using a fine file and sandpaper to attain a straight line - worked a treat to be honest.
The length of the side piece prevented using the scroll saw to cut out the windows so resulted to a coping saw (24tpI which was a bit rough) also some bauding and fine files to finish them off.
Spent the rest of the weekend removing old glue from the hull and slightly confused as to why random pins kept appearing along one of the deck supports. After removing a couple it became obvious what they were when the two pieces of wood separated. Should have used the plans I bought off eBay as they clearly showed that the deck/ hull support was made from two pieces of wood nailed together - looks like superglue may come in handy on this one.
Also noticed on the plans that there are four port holes fitted something my one didn't have fitted - does anyone know where I can these and what size they are?
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Crash Tender Restoration after Plywood Delimitation
Well after some issues with the scroll saw not cutting straight lines I resulted to clamping the side pieces between two pieces of wood and using a fine file and sandpaper to attain a straight line - worked a treat to be honest.
The length of the side piece prevented using the scroll saw to cut out the windows so resulted to a coping saw (24tpI which was a bit rough) also some bauding and fine files to finish them off.
Spent the rest of the weekend removing old glue from the hull and slightly confused as to why random pins kept appearing along one of the deck supports. After removing a couple it became obvious what they were when the two pieces of wood separated. Should have used the plans I bought off eBay as they clearly showed that the deck/ hull support was made from two pieces of wood nailed together - looks like superglue may come in handy on this one.
Also noticed on the plans that there are four port holes fitted something my one didn't have fitted - does anyone know where I can these and what size they are?
don't come on here too often, but I have been here for a long time!
With regards to the windows, the side cabin etc do not have frames, its a misconception, they have eyebrows over them. 94 has one eyebrow covering both rear windows, and one over the front window, 93 had all separate. its only the wheel house that has separate frames. On my 4 foot I used a milling machine, on my 3 foot just did them by hand out of plastic card. Made a cardboard template first, then cut out the centre, finishing with a small file, then cut out the outside of the frame. Takes a lot of patience, but worth it in the end.
Using the frames, you can now level out the holes for the windows as they where never straight!
Check out my 4 foot build blog, ok its the bigger boat, but you will see a section about the frames.
Paul
I cant believe its been 5 years since this project started all over again due to plywood delaminating...time flies!
So things have moved on a little and issues with motor position and whine are pretty much sorted. So time to start the rebuild with today seeing some good progress as the scroll burst back to life with no major issues other a few broken blades 🙄
A few bad cuts but hopefully the rebuild won't need everything to be spot on. Just the windows on the wheelhouse rear bulkhead to cut out and I can get started.
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I cant believe its been 5 years since this project started all over again due to plywood delaminating...time flies!
So things have moved on a little and issues with motor position and whine are pretty much sorted. So time to start the rebuild with today seeing some good progress as the scroll burst back to life with no major issues other a few broken blades 🙄
A few bad cuts but hopefully the rebuild won't need everything to be spot on. Just the windows on the wheelhouse rear bulkhead to cut out and I can get started.
So after getting very happy on the fumes from Sanding Sealer last weekend I thought I'd have another go at dry fitting the cabin. I managed to cut another cabin top piece WF1 that was missing but the plans from ebay guy didn't work that well. It looked alright just needed some filing to get it to fit but there is something a miss with the supports. They were traced from originals but they are too short even with the back bulkhead being moved closer. No stable platform to work from makes it all a PITA.
I'm thinking emailong SLEC to see of they can make the cabin pieces on a single order as trying to fix errors is actually causing more lol.
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So after getting very happy on the fumes from Sanding Sealer last weekend I thought I'd have another go at dry fitting the cabin. I managed to cut another cabin top piece WF1 that was missing but the plans from ebay guy didn't work that well. It looked alright just needed some filing to get it to fit but there is something a miss with the supports. They were traced from originals but they are too short even with the back bulkhead being moved closer. No stable platform to work from makes it all a PITA.
I'm thinking emailong SLEC to see of they can make the cabin pieces on a single order as trying to fix errors is actually causing more lol.
Hi Neil.
All looking good and progressing well👍.
I have very recently been in email contact with SLEC concerning deck planking and they were really helpful in all respects.
I rate them very highly.
Regards Bill.
Hi Bill
I think I'll give it a go as you never know unless you ask. Also if the price is right it could save me a whole lot of time and effort as I just want to crack on now.
Cheers Neil
I took Scratchbuilder Bills advice and contacted SLEC for a quote on the wheelhouse parts and Chris at SLEC is really helpful. It would seem they have changed the old Aerokits part numbers to their own part numbers so my list made little sense at first. Chris figured it out but just in case he is sending a scanned copy of their catalogue for me to compare.
Would I be able to post the catalogue on here as unsure if it would break copyright?
I took Scratchbuilder Bills advice and contacted SLEC for a quote on the wheelhouse parts and Chris at SLEC is really helpful. It would seem they have changed the old Aerokits part numbers to their own part numbers so my list made little sense at first. Chris figured it out but just in case he is sending a scanned copy of their catalogue for me to compare.
Would I be able to post the catalogue on here as unsure if it would break copyright?
Aha!
I thought you were talking about their general catalogue Neil.
Not so sure they'd be too chuffed if we all started copying the templates for their kits.🤔
So perhaps best not!
Cheers, Doug 😎
SLEC are a brilliant company to work with. They helped me out numerous times with my father's and my build on a 16' Lancaster. I no longer fly it unless asked as SA is full of noisy Jet models
Well at last a little time to spend on my long protracted project. Although it was only for a couple of hours I'm sort of pleased with the outcome.
I knew buying bits from SLEC would need some adapting to fit an Aerokits model, but didn't cater for cabin sides being a shorter length. I was however impressed with the idea of slotting the bulkheads into the cabin sides makes the build very easy. Also had a go at the main cabin structure but the main supports were also to short.
Hopefully you clever guys will have an idea on how to overcome this new problem 😁
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Well at last a little time to spend on my long protracted project. Although it was only for a couple of hours I'm sort of pleased with the outcome.
I knew buying bits from SLEC would need some adapting to fit an Aerokits model, but didn't cater for cabin sides being a shorter length. I was however impressed with the idea of slotting the bulkheads into the cabin sides makes the build very easy. Also had a go at the main cabin structure but the main supports were also to short.
Hopefully you clever guys will have an idea on how to overcome this new problem 😁
Hi Mike
Thanks for the solution which makes absolute sense. My concoction involved using ply to make the bulkheads bigger to provide a slot to hold the cabin sides. Yours makes much more sense and will achieve a better result. I'm presuming I dont need to cut back a huge amount and to use 4mm ply as well?
Thanks again
Neil
Hi Bill
The guys at SLEC are really helpful and they've obviously thought about how to make their complete build user friendly. The tabs on the bulkheads simply slot into the cabin sides so no messing about with levels 😁. Just wish I'd done it months ago when it was warm weather as my shed is freezing now 🤣. As my poor little old heater has given up the ghost after tripping the house electrics 😂😂😂
Hope everything is OK and you manage to get back to it soon.
