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    NAXOS - Fishing Boat
    by hecrowell πŸ‡¨πŸ‡¦ ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    πŸ“£










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    12 Posts 46 Comments 7 Photos 43 Likes
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    πŸ“ NAXOS - Keel Laid
    3 days ago by hecrowell ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Got all the parts for the keel cut and sanded up so thought I would glue up a bit of it. Well, a bit turned out to be more than a bit, now I await the stuffing box which I will smear with epoxy and slide into the 14” (5mm) slot. Over the next few days I will drill out the weight lightening holes In the frames, sand them and notch for the sheer clamps and keel. The Project is coming along way better than I had anticipated...wonder when I will run up against a brick wall.
    Being new to boat building ans powering them up, I will be looking for advice on electrical power - lead-acid, gell cell or LiPo.

    UPDATE
    Just couldn't hold off...just HAD to mount that inner transom. Funny thing, though - the notches for the sheer clamps were not marked on the plan. Out comes my rotozip if I can ever get it bk from my son.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: NAXOS - Keel Laid
    2 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi hecrowell,
    You are off to a good start, and i am sure that you will get all the help you need from the fantastic members of this site.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: NAXOS - Keel Laid
    2 days ago by hecrowell ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Notice how my better half allows me to use the kitchen table to do my photography? She has become very interested in this project and is fascinated how a pile of wood pieces can actually turn into something. I even told her About the vegetable steamer expirement...there was no reply...I took that as being good, ha!
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    πŸ’¬ Re: NAXOS - Keel Laid
    1 day ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    It makes live a bit easer when your wife gets interested in your hobby.
    Keep up the good work.
    I will be following your build log.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ“ Cabin - Nearing completion
    4 days ago by hecrowell ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    This is the cabin which is just about about ready for filler, sanding, window and door glazing and Primer. The build has given me some experience and a bit of confidence for the rest of the build. My excitement grows!

    By the way - it seems there are no local boat modelling clubs near me, so today I placed a community ad looking for prospective modellers. Should be interesting to see what I catch.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin - Nearing completion
    4 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    "I placed a community ad looking for prospective modellers."
    Good luck Hec🀞
    Re gotta order in the stuffing box ; do you mean a proper stuffing box or just the usual shaft tube?
    Cheers, Doug 😎
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin - Nearing completion
    2 days ago by hecrowell ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hi Doug
    The usual tube outer sleeve and the shaft itself. He he..all I know for sure is the outer tube is 1/4” OD and the shaft is 3/16” (I think)
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    πŸ“ Cabin Coming Along Nicely
    7 days ago by hecrowell ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Today, I finally got around to rough fitting of the cabin and wheelhouse. The parts are pinned together with a spot of weldbond Glue - enough to hold things together for sanding and fairing for that slightly curved Cover. The front of the wheelhouse is in the vegetable steamer ( my wife is out for a few hours, he he he) and will try my luck at bending it to shape on the plan. Right wrong or indifferent, I have used 1/8” medium hard balsa for this structure. Wanted Basswood, but none in stock at my supplier.
    How detailed will I be? No idea at this point. I guess it depends on how I feel as construction continues. I will be ordering in som port holes for starters.
    Later today, I will begin cutting the sections for the keel, and gotta order in the stuffing box - it has to be installed as the keel pieces are fit and glued in place.
    Hope to have an update in the next week.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and wheelhouse for the SAXON
    7 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    "In the vegetable steamer" you naughty boy LOL!!!

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and wheelhouse for the SAXON
    6 days ago by hecrowell ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Much easier to seek forgiveness than it is to get permission. (Hehe)
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    πŸ“ NAXOS - build started
    9 days ago by hecrowell ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Was having huge problems trying to get my mitts on a scroll saw to cut out the formers and other pieces for the NAXOS. Finally, a friend of mine told me that he had one and not only was I able to use it, he told me I could HAVE it! Oh boy! Luck me! He offered to bring it to me, and when he arrived, what was he holding in his hand? A COPING SAW! I thanked him graciously and when he left, gave it a try. Now - you must remember that I am 78, and would really like to finish the NAXOS ( which I am thinking I going to christen Her as β€œthe SAXON”) Before I die. Therefore, I opted to build my scroll saw using a spare jig saw I had laying around. Some scrap wood, a few wood screws and the jig saw produced A very workable tool that will let me cut out the parts required to build the SAXON. So, finally, The official build of my little dream fishing boat from the other side of the world us Now borne. Now for a bit of sanding.......
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    πŸ’¬ Re: NAXOS - build started
    9 days ago by Colin H ( Captain)
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    Great ideas come from necessity. Well done.
    Cheers Colin.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: NAXOS - build started
    9 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Good work and a great idea.
    Well done.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: NAXOS - build started
    9 days ago by redpmg ( Commander)
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    Great ingenuity - so as Martin says "well done" . Enjoy your building - its a great looking boat. The coping saw might well come in handy too.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: NAXOS - build started
    9 days ago by ianed57 ( Midshipman)
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    Great stuff, looking forward to this build as I always liked Naxos. It's a boat I would like to build if I live long enough!πŸ€”

    Good luck,

    Ian
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    πŸ’¬ Re: NAXOS - build started
    6 days ago by hecrowell ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hey - c’mon, Ian. The water is fine. Jump in and do it. If you wait, it may never get done....I nearly found that out the hard way!
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    πŸ“ Electronic Speed Control
    23 days ago by hecrowell ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Here is an ESC with BEC That I came across some time ago. It was designed and developed by a gentleman in Germany by the name of Claus Poltermann. I have not used the ESC at this time for two reasons: i have not finished It yet and I have no boat In which to install it yet. This is an uncomplicated unit to build, and i have attached documentation and images for this unit with the developers permission. Included is the website link where you can obtain the microprocessor ask questions, and if you are not into fabricating pc boards, Obtain the pc board itself.
    Keep in mind that Claus will not be available until September.


    Speed controller with reverse
    This is a guide to building an electronic cruise control with polarity reversal for ship models. Only readily available standard components are used and the complete documents for the construction and the firmware for the microcontroller are available for free download.
    A speed controller is one of the standard applications in model electronics. The speed controller presented here (actually: "speed controller") for conventional brush motors is up to max. 8 A loadable. It is therefore suitable for ship models that should move at a prototypical speed and is sufficient for most function models. The controller is less suitable for racing boats.
    The following requirements must be fulfilled for a successful replica:
    * Possibility of etching circuit boards. The circuit board is single-layered and therefore easy to manufacture.
    * Availability of a programming device for PIC microcontrollers
    * some experience in soldering
    This speed controller is available in the cp-electronics shop as a kit or as a ready-made module and has the following enhancements compared to the free firmware:
    * PWM frequency selectable (2.5 kHz or 9 kHz)
    * either linear or exponential control characteristics
    All other properties are the same in both versions:
    * Polarity reversal of the motor via relay
    * Supply of the relay via the drive battery
    * simple construction with standard components
    * Operation with 6 V or 12 V driving battery
    * Current carrying capacity max. approx. 8 A
    * sensitive control through 250 speed levels per direction of travel
    * Fail Safe: the engine is switched off in the event of reception errors
    * Motor start protection when connecting the battery
    * galvanic isolation of control and power section
    * Setup function for learning the neutral and maximum position
    Circuit board
    The circuit board is single-layered and easy to manufacture with hobby tools. Please reinforce the conductor tracks that carry the motor current with a soldered bare copper wire. It also makes sense to use base material with a 70 Β΅m copper layer (standard is 35 Β΅m). If necessary, the conductor tracks can also be tinned thick with solder.
    No tiny SMD components are used, so assembly is also possible without a microscope. Every experienced model maker should therefore be able to solder the controller without any problems.
    Circuit description
    The controller is very simple.
    The receiver pulse switches the internal LED of the optocoupler via a transistor, the collector of the internal transistor is placed on an input of the PIC microcontroller. The receiver is thus galvanically isolated from the load circuit, interference signals from the motor cannot get into the receiver. However, the motor should not be carefully suppressed!
    The controller is supplied with a stabilized operating voltage of 5 V from the drive battery via a voltage regulator 7805. If a 6 V battery is used, a low-drop voltage regulator should be used (see parts list).
    An output of the PIC switches the polarity reversal relay via a driver transistor. The relay is powered by the drive battery, so the coil voltage must be adjusted to the voltage of the drive battery. There are suitable relays in both a 6 V and a 12 V version.
    Another output controls the two MOSFETs with a PWM signal, which is generated by the microcontroller depending on the stick position on the transmitter, via a series resistor directly and without an additional driver circuit. The Schottky diode MBR 1645 feeds the current induced in the motor back into the motor during the switch-off phases of the MOSFETs. There are also two LEDs for signaling the setup and for displaying errors.
    Set up
    The setup of the neutral and maximum position values can be adapted to your own remote control system. For this, the jumper "SET" is inserted and the supply voltage (first receiver, then driving battery) is switched on.
    After switching on, the red LED flashes for approx. 5 s, during this time the control stick and the trim must be brought into the neutral position or held there. If the LED goes out, the corresponding value has been permanently saved in the PIC's EEPROM. The green LED then flashes, the joystick must be brought to the maximum position and held there during this time.
    After successful setup, the green LED lights up continuously.
    If, on the other hand, the red LED lights up permanently, there is an error. Possible causes are:
    * no difference between neutral and maximum position. Check whether the speed controller has been connected to the correct receiver channel.
    * the measured pulse length for the neutral position is greater than the length for the maximum position. Then you have to change the transmitter or activate a servo reverse for this channel.
    In the event of an error, the cause must be eliminated and the setup carried out again.
    If the red LED lights up permanently after it has flashed, ie the green LED does not flash during setup, no valid receiver pulses are measured. In this case, check the connection cable and the printed circuit board for errors.
    After completing the setup, the speed controller must be disconnected from the supply voltage for approx. 30 s (the capacitors must be completely discharged). The jumper is now removed and the supply voltage is switched on again. The green LED lights up for approx. 2 s, during this time the stick must not be brought out of the neutral position (tarnish protection). If the green LED goes out, the motor output is activated and the controller is ready for operation.Β 
    The setup can be carried out again if necessary.
    If the red LED lights up in operating mode (SET jumper removed), this indicates faulty receiver pulses and indicates reception interference or a transmitter that is switched off.
    Firmware
    The firmware of the microcontroller does the evaluation of the pulse length, the switching of the relay and the generation of the PWM signal for the power transistors.
    In order to prevent the motor from starting when it is switched on, the stick must be held in the neutral position for approx. 2 s when the power supply is switched on, only then will the motor output become active. The same applies after the engine has stopped due to invalid receiver pulses.
    http://cp-elektronik.de/
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    πŸ“ Slight holdup
    29 days ago by hecrowell ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    When things go wrong, things go wrong. Got my bulkhead patterns on my wood, dug our the scroll saw and with a big smile I thought β€œHere I go,”
    Flipped the switch and.....nothing. Discovered that the motor has bitten the dust. Looks like the rotor windings are cooked. Now in a panic and looking for a friend that can lend me his - whenever he finds it.

    Seeeeeeeesh!
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Slight holdup
    29 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Sorry to hear that.
    Not a good start to this project, but hopefully you will get going again soon.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Slight holdup
    29 days ago by Nerys ( Commodore)
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    Bad luck, I expect a similar mishap every time I switch on my saw. It is over forty years old, a Swiss magnetal saw from Hgbbies whilst they still had a shop in London and it cost Β£42. I've had my money's worth.

    Cheers, Nerys
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Slight holdup
    25 days ago by Dampfgerd ( Master Seaman)
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    I use over 30 year my hand machine (picture) had never a problem and have fun to make that handfull parts
    Since there are many similar fishing boats in Greece, the Naxos has plenty of room for interpretation(it give no real Naxos)

    Gerhard
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Slight holdup
    25 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    "(it give no real Naxos)"
    Gibt schon DampfgerdπŸ˜‰
    A rather more modern version though!
    https://www.marinetraffic.com/en/ais/details/ships/shipid:21...
    Cheers, Doug 😎
    https://www.marinetraffic.com/en/ais/details/ships/shipid:211866/mmsi:240010000/imo:8785632/vessel:NAXOS
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Slight holdup
    24 days ago by Dampfgerd ( Master Seaman)
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    More that .....
    .....Naxos is a Greek island in the South Aegean πŸ˜‰
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Slight holdup
    24 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Gerd,
    Stimmt, aber-
    Ich glaube wir haben dass ganz am Anfang diese Geschichte schon geklΓ€rt!
    Der grâßte Insel der Cycladen.
    Grüß, Doug 😎
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    πŸ“ Naxos - finally, some progress
    1 month ago by hecrowell ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Got the drawings out and made paper templates for the hull formers. Stuck them on 1/4” ply with homemade mod-podge (3parts Elmers white glue and 1 part water) once dry, will dig out my scroll saw and get them cut out.
    Next in line is the back bone.
    Its nice to feel well enough to catch up (or try to) wiyh my personal β€œto do” list
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Naxos - finally, some progress
    1 month ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hello,
    Glad to see you are feeling well and back at the build, I can identify with that, great to have the energy and enthusiasm back! πŸ‘ Good recipe for homemade modpog...
    Joe
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Naxos - finally, some progress
    1 month ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    I am glad you are feeling better.
    I will be following this build.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Naxos - finally, some progress
    1 month ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Welcome back Hec,πŸ‘
    Looking forward to progress reports.
    Cheers, Doug 😎
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Naxos - finally, some progress
    1 month ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hecrowell,
    Congrats on your promotion.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ“ NAXOS - Fishing Boat
    2 years ago by hecrowell ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    After a time away due to illness and other family issues, I am back to the build of the NAXOS. By accident, I think that I have obtained a suitable power plant for her - it is the motor out of a cordless drill which I can no longer get a battery pack for. Aparently, it runs on 6V to 60V.
    Wondering if it will require water coolong or not. If so, how does one arrange a "water scoop" for the cooling tube and where is the discharge sent to? Maybe a port in the transom.....
    As you can see, it has a pinion gear on the shaft and I don't know if I should leave it on and incorporate a prop speed reduction gear or remove it (with heat) and go "direct drive" coupling to the prop shaft.
    I have a plan for the ESC with BEC and as I love building electronic devices likely will go with "home brew". I am a boat building novice so constructive input appreciated.
    Have located a source for wood construction material, so hopefully will have something to show next time.
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    πŸ’¬ NAXOS - Fishing Boat
    2 years ago by Wingcoax ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Water scoop is normally sited just behind the prop and offset to enable the prop to push water up the scoop, the outlet is usually in the transom,although i have seen them mounted in the side.

    outlet
    prop
    fishing boat
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    πŸ’¬ NAXOS - Fishing Boat
    2 years ago by onetenor ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Depending on what voltage you intend using governs what gearing you should use commensurate with size and weight of model and prop size ,
    IE small boat and prop ,low voltage direct drive would do. As you go bigger then consider gearing.Bear in mind the torque produced by the drill. You could build a large boat with a fine turn of speed using that motor. The thing is there are so many possible variables you could experiment till the cows come home. The thing is how big a boat can you handle without putting your back out. LOL. if you remove the existing gear and replace it with one secured by grub screws and a "GearBox" with easily changed cogs you can achieve something suitable. You shouldn't need cooling .Remember the drill had none and your motor will have free space round it in the hull. if you decide you do want cooling annealed copper tubing can be wound round the can and one of the plastic tubes used to couple this to the scoop and the outlet. One way of making a scoop is a length of tubing with a slot cut in it and a cap soldered (or glued depending on material) on the end when in place under the hull the cutout will face forward. Preferably in the prop wash.Or buy a ready made scoop from a model shop. Much simpler as the mounting method will be incorporated in it already. Here is a page of suitable shops.--https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=model+boat+shops&npsic=0&rflfq=1&rlha=0&rllag=53384469,-3048343,31236&tbm=lcl&ved=0ahUKEwiJyL2-i5_bAhWpKsAKHZsiD8YQjGoIaQ&tbs=lrf:!2m4!1e17!4m2!17m1!1e2!2m1!1e2!2m1!1e3!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:10&rldoc=1#rlfi=hd:;si:;mv:!1m3!1d2318841.41797519!2d-3.0710914999999996!3d52.741938250000004!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i83!2i180!4f13.1;tbs:lrf:!2m1!1e2!2m1!1e3!2m4!1e17!4m2!17m1!1e2!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:10 Good luck.
    P.S. Join a club. Youll get loads of help from the other members.πŸ‘πŸ‘
    https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=model+boat+shops&npsic=0&rflfq=1&rlha=0&rllag=53384469,-3048343,31236&tbm=lcl&ved=0ahUKEwiJyL2-i5_bAhWpKsAKHZsiD8YQjGoIaQ&tbs=lrf:!2m4!1e17!4m2!17m1!1e2!2m1!1e2!2m1!1e3!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:10&rldoc=1#rlfi=hd:;si:;mv:!1m3!1d2318841.41797519!2d-3.0710914999999996!3d52.741938250000004!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i83!2i180!4f13.1;tbs:lrf:!2m1!1e2!2m1!1e3!2m4!1e17!4m2!17m1!1e2!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:10
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    πŸ’¬ NAXOS - Fishing Boat
    2 years ago by hecrowell ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Thanks for the response/info, onetenor. Boat clubs in my area are scarce - like none. Myself and a few other interested "boaters" are thinking of recreating one that used to be very active here. it faded out because of age of membership and no newer and younger members.

    club
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    πŸ’¬ NAXOS - Fishing Boat
    2 years ago by onetenor ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Pity about the lack of clubs but I hope my waffle is useful.Also log on to model boat mayhem forum and see if anyone there can help😁 out

    club
    model
    forum
    fishing boat
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    πŸ’¬ NAXOS - Fishing Boat
    2 years ago by onetenor ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    As an afterthought visit a distant club now and then and establish a connexion. They may be able to assist fixing yourselves to start your club.πŸ‘ Cheers John

    club
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    πŸ’¬ NAXOS - Fishing Boat
    2 years ago by onetenor ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Regarding measuring up the plans!Would a ruler help? He He He! At least You got the tiling right which is more than this 75 yrs old's brain can get right.

    plans
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    πŸ“ Engine question
    3 years ago by hecrowell ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Just wondering if anyone can tell me what type of engine the NAXOS used - gasoline or diesel?
    I once had a link to a website that featured a diy engine sound generator for marine use including various whistle sounds.
    The sound samples were excellent. Now the website is gone. Does anyone use sound generators for their craft?

    website
    engine
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    πŸ’¬ Engine question
    3 years ago by Zdenek ( Leading Seaman)
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    What I know about fishing boats of this type, they usually use diesel engines (approximately since WW II).
    Zdenek

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    πŸ“ An experiment with foam board
    3 years ago by hecrowell ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    I am going to try an experiment with foam board similar to a build that I ran across on the internet. it consists of making the keel and bulkheads with 1/4" foam board or a double thickness if it is thinner. The board that I have will require two thicknesses. if all else fails, it will proof my plans that they are reasonably acurate.
    The inner gunwales and the sheer clamps will be clear pine.

    Trace the outline of the part, cut out and stick with adhesive spray onto foamboard and cut out.
    Kere is the partial keel which I labelled "K1". Will post pictures as I progress.

    plans
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    πŸ’¬ An experiment with foam board
    2 years ago by onetenor ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    A ruler might help check the plans. My 75 yrs old brain can't get it right LOL

    plans
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