This will be a scratch build of a fishing boat. Her original name is NAXOS but not sure what I will name my version of her.

Naxos is a Greek island, the largest of the Cyclades group, so likely she fished the Aegean Sea.
Since the plan seems to come from Bratislava, capital of Slovakia, I am assuming the plan language is Slovakian.

These plans have been obtained online, so I hopefully will not be in violation of any copyrights...if I am, I will remove them immediately.

Well, I took a stab at making my own FSP today. Talk about scratch building!
Not having a large size plotter, I used the online service of rasterbator.com and split/enlarged available plans onto 12 sheets legal size paper (8.5 X 17 inches). Was then able to print on my home printer and stick the whole thing together with tape. I feel that I am real close because the LOA on the plan is a little over 31 inches.
No, I cannot read the small text on the plan, but what the heck..I couldnt read it anyhow. Read somewhere that it was actually Hungarian - if whoever wrote that knew what he was talking about.
Will do the 2nd sheet tomorrow.

UPDATE
Well, finally got the 2nd sheet split up, printed and taped together. Everything seems to compare on both sheets - at least as good as a pair of 75year old eyes with reading glasses can measure.🤓

I am going to try an experiment with foam board similar to a build that I ran across on the internet. it consists of making the keel and bulkheads with 1/4" foam board or a double thickness if it is thinner. The board that I have will require two thicknesses. if all else fails, it will proof my plans that they are reasonably acurate.
The inner gunwales and the sheer clamps will be clear pine.

Trace the outline of the part, cut out and stick with adhesive spray onto foamboard and cut out.
Kere is the partial keel which I labelled "K1". Will post pictures as I progress.

Just wondering if anyone can tell me what type of engine the NAXOS used - gasoline or diesel?
I once had a link to a website that featured a diy engine sound generator for marine use including various whistle sounds.
The sound samples were excellent. Now the website is gone. Does anyone use sound generators for their craft?

After a time away due to illness and other family issues, I am back to the build of the NAXOS. By accident, I think that I have obtained a suitable power plant for her - it is the motor out of a cordless drill which I can no longer get a battery pack for. Aparently, it runs on 6V to 60V.
Wondering if it will require water coolong or not. If so, how does one arrange a "water scoop" for the cooling tube and where is the discharge sent to? Maybe a port in the transom.....
As you can see, it has a pinion gear on the shaft and I don't know if I should leave it on and incorporate a prop speed reduction gear or remove it (with heat) and go "direct drive" coupling to the prop shaft.
I have a plan for the ESC with BEC and as I love building electronic devices likely will go with "home brew". I am a boat building novice so constructive input appreciated.
Have located a source for wood construction material, so hopefully will have something to show next time.

Got the drawings out and made paper templates for the hull formers. Stuck them on 1/4” ply with homemade mod-podge (3parts Elmers white glue and 1 part water) once dry, will dig out my scroll saw and get them cut out.
Next in line is the back bone.
Its nice to feel well enough to catch up (or try to) wiyh my personal “to do” list

When things go wrong, things go wrong. Got my bulkhead patterns on my wood, dug our the scroll saw and with a big smile I thought “Here I go,”
Flipped the switch and.....nothing. Discovered that the motor has bitten the dust. Looks like the rotor windings are cooked. Now in a panic and looking for a friend that can lend me his - whenever he finds it.

Seeeeeeeesh!

Here is an ESC with BEC That I came across some time ago. It was designed and developed by a gentleman in Germany by the name of Claus Poltermann. I have not used the ESC at this time for two reasons: i have not finished It yet and I have no boat In which to install it yet. This is an uncomplicated unit to build, and i have attached documentation and images for this unit with the developers permission. Included is the website link where you can obtain the microprocessor ask questions, and if you are not into fabricating pc boards, Obtain the pc board itself.
Keep in mind that Claus will not be available until September.

Speed controller with reverse
This is a guide to building an electronic cruise control with polarity reversal for ship models. Only readily available standard components are used and the complete documents for the construction and the firmware for the microcontroller are available for free download.
A speed controller is one of the standard applications in model electronics. The speed controller presented here (actually: "speed controller") for conventional brush motors is up to max. 8 A loadable. It is therefore suitable for ship models that should move at a prototypical speed and is sufficient for most function models. The controller is less suitable for racing boats.
The following requirements must be fulfilled for a successful replica:
* Possibility of etching circuit boards. The circuit board is single-layered and therefore easy to manufacture.
* Availability of a programming device for PIC microcontrollers
* some experience in soldering
This speed controller is available in the cp-electronics shop as a kit or as a ready-made module and has the following enhancements compared to the free firmware:
* PWM frequency selectable (2.5 kHz or 9 kHz)
* either linear or exponential control characteristics
All other properties are the same in both versions:
* Polarity reversal of the motor via relay
* Supply of the relay via the drive battery
* simple construction with standard components
* Operation with 6 V or 12 V driving battery
* Current carrying capacity max. approx. 8 A
* sensitive control through 250 speed levels per direction of travel
* Fail Safe: the engine is switched off in the event of reception errors
* Motor start protection when connecting the battery
* galvanic isolation of control and power section
* Setup function for learning the neutral and maximum position
Circuit board
The circuit board is single-layered and easy to manufacture with hobby tools. Please reinforce the conductor tracks that carry the motor current with a soldered bare copper wire. It also makes sense to use base material with a 70 µm copper layer (standard is 35 µm). If necessary, the conductor tracks can also be tinned thick with solder.
No tiny SMD components are used, so assembly is also possible without a microscope. Every experienced model maker should therefore be able to solder the controller without any problems.
Circuit description
The controller is very simple.
The receiver pulse switches the internal LED of the optocoupler via a transistor, the collector of the internal transistor is placed on an input of the PIC microcontroller. The receiver is thus galvanically isolated from the load circuit, interference signals from the motor cannot get into the receiver. However, the motor should not be carefully suppressed!
The controller is supplied with a stabilized operating voltage of 5 V from the drive battery via a voltage regulator 7805. If a 6 V battery is used, a low-drop voltage regulator should be used (see parts list).
An output of the PIC switches the polarity reversal relay via a driver transistor. The relay is powered by the drive battery, so the coil voltage must be adjusted to the voltage of the drive battery. There are suitable relays in both a 6 V and a 12 V version.
Another output controls the two MOSFETs with a PWM signal, which is generated by the microcontroller depending on the stick position on the transmitter, via a series resistor directly and without an additional driver circuit. The Schottky diode MBR 1645 feeds the current induced in the motor back into the motor during the switch-off phases of the MOSFETs. There are also two LEDs for signaling the setup and for displaying errors.
Set up
The setup of the neutral and maximum position values can be adapted to your own remote control system. For this, the jumper "SET" is inserted and the supply voltage (first receiver, then driving battery) is switched on.
After switching on, the red LED flashes for approx. 5 s, during this time the control stick and the trim must be brought into the neutral position or held there. If the LED goes out, the corresponding value has been permanently saved in the PIC's EEPROM. The green LED then flashes, the joystick must be brought to the maximum position and held there during this time.
After successful setup, the green LED lights up continuously.
If, on the other hand, the red LED lights up permanently, there is an error. Possible causes are:
* no difference between neutral and maximum position. Check whether the speed controller has been connected to the correct receiver channel.
* the measured pulse length for the neutral position is greater than the length for the maximum position. Then you have to change the transmitter or activate a servo reverse for this channel.
In the event of an error, the cause must be eliminated and the setup carried out again.
If the red LED lights up permanently after it has flashed, ie the green LED does not flash during setup, no valid receiver pulses are measured. In this case, check the connection cable and the printed circuit board for errors.
After completing the setup, the speed controller must be disconnected from the supply voltage for approx. 30 s (the capacitors must be completely discharged). The jumper is now removed and the supply voltage is switched on again. The green LED lights up for approx. 2 s, during this time the stick must not be brought out of the neutral position (tarnish protection). If the green LED goes out, the motor output is activated and the controller is ready for operation. 
The setup can be carried out again if necessary.
If the red LED lights up in operating mode (SET jumper removed), this indicates faulty receiver pulses and indicates reception interference or a transmitter that is switched off.
Firmware
The firmware of the microcontroller does the evaluation of the pulse length, the switching of the relay and the generation of the PWM signal for the power transistors.
In order to prevent the motor from starting when it is switched on, the stick must be held in the neutral position for approx. 2 s when the power supply is switched on, only then will the motor output become active. The same applies after the engine has stopped due to invalid receiver pulses.

Was having huge problems trying to get my mitts on a scroll saw to cut out the formers and other pieces for the NAXOS. Finally, a friend of mine told me that he had one and not only was I able to use it, he told me I could HAVE it! Oh boy! Luck me! He offered to bring it to me, and when he arrived, what was he holding in his hand? A COPING SAW! I thanked him graciously and when he left, gave it a try. Now - you must remember that I am 78, and would really like to finish the NAXOS ( which I am thinking I going to christen Her as “the SAXON”) Before I die. Therefore, I opted to build my scroll saw using a spare jig saw I had laying around. Some scrap wood, a few wood screws and the jig saw produced A very workable tool that will let me cut out the parts required to build the SAXON. So, finally, The official build of my little dream fishing boat from the other side of the world us Now borne. Now for a bit of sanding.......

Today, I finally got around to rough fitting of the cabin and wheelhouse. The parts are pinned together with a spot of weldbond Glue - enough to hold things together for sanding and fairing for that slightly curved Cover. The front of the wheelhouse is in the vegetable steamer ( my wife is out for a few hours, he he he) and will try my luck at bending it to shape on the plan. Right wrong or indifferent, I have used 1/8” medium hard balsa for this structure. Wanted Basswood, but none in stock at my supplier.
How detailed will I be? No idea at this point. I guess it depends on how I feel as construction continues. I will be ordering in som port holes for starters.
Later today, I will begin cutting the sections for the keel, and gotta order in the stuffing box - it has to be installed as the keel pieces are fit and glued in place.
Hope to have an update in the next week.