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    SLEC Harbour Pilots Boat by Robbob
    by robbob ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ( Commodore)
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    20 Posts 193 Comments 9 Photos 216 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ Waterslide graphics for the cabin, and the value of paint tests !
    2 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    The Southampton Pilot Boats have some distinctive logos and graphics on their cabins and I thought Iโ€™d have a go at making my own rather than getting them made in vinyl by a graphics studio.

    I have used waterslide โ€˜decalsโ€™ many times in my youth as an avid Airfix and Revell model kit maker so I know how they work and how to use them but Iโ€™ve never tried making my own. Fortunately there are quite a few helpful videos on YouTube that illustrate the process and all that is required is a bit of work with a graphics package, I use Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator, a good inkjet printer and the required clear and white backed transfer paper.
    The latter can be bought readily from eBay and while being quite expensive as a single A4 sheet they are available as mixed multipacks at reasonable cost. Inkjet paper is most common but you can also get a Laser Jet version of the paper too.

    The process starts with identifying the logos and obtaining a good quality .png of .jpg file of the required logos but our friend Google makes this very easy and once in the graphics software they can be re-sized, re-coloured and manipulated with ease.
    The most difficult aspect is gauging the correct proportions of the logos and text by studying the โ€˜photos of the real boats, which is quite difficult without having something to reliably scale to. The large black โ€˜PILOTS Southamptonโ€™ text is just Arial bold so thatโ€™s very easy to generate.

    I made a test sheet of the graphics in my Canon ink-jet printer on Best Photo settings, left them to dry and then used some โ€˜Rust-Oleumโ€™ clear lacquer (in a rattle can that I wanted to finish up) to overspray the decals to โ€˜fixโ€™ them and protect the ink from dissolving away when placed in water as is recommended in the instructions that come with the paper.
    A selection of these graphics were then applied to my โ€˜test pieceโ€™ which is painted in the colours Iโ€™m using.
    I also used some โ€˜Micro Solโ€™ and โ€˜Micro Setโ€™ fluid to aid application and ensure correct bonding of the decals.

    The final part of the testing involved spraying the decals with lacquer as a protective coatingโ€ฆ.and thatโ€™s where the benefits of doing a test piece first comes to the fore.
    To my horror the decals had a very bad reaction to the Halfords clear lacquer that I used and started wrinkling up before my eyes, I quickly grabbed my โ€˜phone and videoed this happening ๐Ÿ˜ฒ

    You can see the wrinkling happening in the video clip.

    (EDIT: The clip was uploaded as a .mp4 file but mysteriously gets changed to a .mpg4 file by the site when you download it, rename it a .mp4 if it doesn't play after it's downloaded.)

    I believe that the two different brands of lacquer, both supposedly acrylic, reacted with each other and hence the wrinkling. I canโ€™t imagine how furious I would have been if Iโ€™d not done this test and applied the decals to the cabin right away and then used the Halfords lacquer over them. The work involved in rectifying that disaster would be extensive ๐Ÿ˜ก

    Did I dodge a bullet or what!!! ๐Ÿค•

    I threw away the remnants of the offending โ€˜Rust-Oleumโ€™ lacquer immediately.

    Having learned a valuable lesson I went on to make a fresh set of decals on a new clear sheet and also a second set on a โ€˜whiteโ€™ sheet because part of the testing proved that the blue of the ABP and Babcock logos doesnโ€™t resolve very well over the orange paint but worked much better when produced using the โ€˜whiteโ€™ background paper which has greater opacity.
    The red and white โ€˜flagโ€™ marking also had to be made using the same paper.
    These new sheets were lacquered with a couple of coats the Halfords stuff and left overnight to thoroughly cure.

    Applying these home-made decals is no different from the โ€˜Airfixโ€™ method but I did use some Micro Sol & Micro Set as before and all the decals were applied without any problems. Although I did have to cut out and apply the ABP letters individually.

    I also made some โ€˜bolt headโ€™ decals to put on the engine vent panels that go on the cabin sides as I thought that they might look better than adding protruding bolt heads. The panels look quite effective with the black backing and stainless steel mesh in place. These will be fixed in place in the final detailing.

    The complete cabin was then put in the spray booth (no masking required for a change) and given three coats of Halfords clear gloss lacquer without any ill effects (much to my relief) and I only have one very small run in the lacquer to polish out.

    Thankfully thatโ€™s the only remedial work I need to do.๐Ÿ˜€

    Next up, the life raft container.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Waterslide graphics for the cabin, and the value of paint tests !
    2 days ago by Colin H ( Commodore)
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    Absolutely cracking. I must try that diy version for my boats, gives unlimited design options. And no problem scaling to the correct sizes.
    Cheers Colin.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Waterslide graphics for the cabin, and the value of paint tests !
    2 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commander)
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    It looks fantastic Rob, really does.

    Iโ€™ve had similar issues with Halfords acrylic on decals in the past. I now use Tamiya TS-13 Clear for prepping home made decals before applying, followed by Halfords lacquer after thatโ€™s fully gone off after being applied to the model, that works!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Waterslide graphics for the cabin, and the value of paint tests !
    2 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Sy.
    Never had any real problems with the Halfords paints and lacquers, in this case I'm pointing the accusing finger at the Rust-Oleum stuff, that went straight into the bin !!
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Waterslide graphics for the cabin, and the value of paint tests !
    2 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Nice work Rob.
    Extremely professional looking.
    Well done.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Waterslide graphics for the cabin, and the value of paint tests !
    2 days ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
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    Lovely finish on the decals Rob, have used decal paper for some time now, and it gets easier the more you use it, have got a colour laser printer also, but always spray a clear cote over that, even though some people say it's waterproof already?๐Ÿ˜I suppose I should do a test piece.

    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Waterslide graphics for the cabin, and the value of paint tests !
    2 days ago by Newby7 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Wonderful job on the graphics they give a good look to the boat.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Waterslide graphics for the cabin, and the value of paint tests !
    2 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Thanks Rick.
    I'm quite enjoying the detailing of the boat, a lot of scratchbuilding which I don't usually do but the results are very pleasing (so far). The last major job is the handrail and safety rails and 'cos that involves drilling holes all over the freshly painted and lacquered cabin I'm a bit nervous ๐Ÿ˜ฐ
    Robbob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Waterslide graphics for the cabin, and the value of paint tests !
    2 days ago by mturpin013 ( Captain)
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    Great job Rob, something to keep in the back pocket for later builds
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    ๐Ÿ“ The hull graphics, and tackling the dreaded waterline!
    6 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Firstly on with a bit more painting with the deck finish. The textured paint is a Halfords product and conveniently is quite a close match to the colour that I think it should be RAL6001 Emerald Green in a satin finish. Iโ€™ve looked into getting a can of Emerald Green custom mixed and at ยฃ16 including delivery itโ€™s quite an expensive option just to get the colour Iโ€™d preferโ€ฆโ€ฆ.but Iโ€™m tempted.๐Ÿค”

    After carefully masking the hull the deck was cleaned off with panel wipe and two coats were sprayed about 15 minutes apart. Iโ€™m quite pleased with the level of texture bearing in mind that after over coating with a satin lacquer will lessen the texture a bit. The forward and rear deck areas of the cabin structure will also need to be painted with this textured green paint but I wonโ€™t do that until the cabin graphics are applied and lacquered.

    My model is based on the โ€˜Hamstead Southamptonโ€™ Pilot boat and so I had a 6mm high white vinyl name graphics made for a few pounds and applied them centrally on the stern. On the real boat the name and home port are actually at the same level but either side of a rear ladder structure which I wonโ€™t be detailing on my boat so I think the central position looks better than splitting it with a big gap in between.

    There are two areas within the rubber side buffers which are painted in a very conspicuous yellow, presumably for some identification or visibility reason. Rather than try to paint them I thought Iโ€™d try using some self-adhesive film that sign makers use. Sourced from eBay as a โ€˜sample sizeโ€™ they proved very inexpensive and after making card templates for sizing they were also โ€˜hingedโ€™ into place using masking tape after peeling off the backing paper. They went on surprisingly easy and are a much better fit and finish than I could achieve with paint. Also masking off for paint would be a nightmare too!

    Now that the white self-adhesive vinyl tape has arrived I canโ€™t really put off doing the dreaded waterline any longer. ๐Ÿ˜ฐ

    I have decided to use the 5mm wide tape as it looks to be the correct proportion. Because Iโ€™ve always had problems with the waterlines on my models I try lots of things to mitigate against the tape lifting and that includes removing any raised edge where the red and black paints meet by masking either side and flatting the join with some very fine abrasive and making sure that the area is perfectly flat and clean.

    Starting from the stern the tape was applied over the paint join, and where it crosses the chine I chose to make a cut at an inconspicuous place under the chine and continue with a second piece to the bow. This worked well and was repeated on the other side and then the stern was tackled last. The tape was thoroughly rubbed down onto the hull with a soft cloth and seemed to have stuck quite well.
    I left it overnight and returned to find it was quite OK over the long flat areas but had very slightly lifted at the edges where it crosses the chine, to be honest, much as I expected! ๐Ÿ˜  The solution I have found in the past is to gently lift the tape edges and apply โ€˜micro dotsโ€™ of cyano applied with a pin (sharp end) and pressing the tape back with firm pressure with a smooth rounded tool. Done correctly the cyano doesnโ€™t ooze out and affect the paint outside of the tape edge. I also use a dot of cyano to secure the tape ends where they join and overlap at the chine and at the joins at the bow tip and the stern corners. I left it for a few daysโ€ฆ.. and to my relief there were no more signs of lifting so Iโ€™m happy that itโ€™s finally done. ๐Ÿ˜Š

    The last hull graphic are the โ€˜3โ€™ numerals at the bow, and again these are white vinyl and 20mm in height. Applying them symmetrically involved making a template, which is common to both sides of the bow, with a square cut-out at the required position. The numerals were applied by โ€˜hingingโ€™ the self-adhesive number into place.

    The black area of the hull will later be sprayed with a gloss lacquer to seal the waterline and the bow numbers and stern graphics in place but in the meantime Iโ€™m making the โ€˜waterslideโ€™ graphics for the cabin detailing. ๐Ÿ˜
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The hull graphics, and tackling the dreaded waterline!
    6 days ago by Missouri ( Able Seaman)
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    I do like the precise nature of 'hinging' the lettering into place. It's the detail which makes the model.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The hull graphics, and tackling the dreaded waterline!
    6 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Missouri.
    The good thing about that technique is that there's very little chance of 'miss-placing' the item due to unsteady hands and the like. With vinyl stickers you only get one shot at placing them because peeling them off to re-position will inevitable damage the sticker and possibly the surface it's going on to.
    I'm putting a lot of detail on this model as you will see in further updates...all inspired by Skydive130 I might add ๐Ÿ˜
    Robbob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The hull graphics, and tackling the dreaded waterline!
    6 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Rob,

    I am really enjoying your build log, and as for your model it is fantastic she is coming along great.
    Keep it up.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The hull graphics, and tackling the dreaded waterline!
    6 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Martin.
    Thanks for your kind words ๐Ÿ˜Š.
    It's coming along quite well but v e r y s l o w l y . . . . .
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The hull graphics, and tackling the dreaded waterline!
    6 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commander)
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    Starting to look rather sweet Rob, so glad mine has gone! ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The hull graphics, and tackling the dreaded waterline!
    6 days ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
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    The gloss black paint on your hull Rob, looks really good,๐Ÿ‘ I think the time for mine has come to have a refit, and a new gloss black hull๐Ÿ˜Š
    Your 6mm high white vinyl name graphics look really effective, where did you get them please?

    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The hull graphics, and tackling the dreaded waterline!
    6 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Pete.
    I found them on the web:
    https://www.decalsandstickers.co.uk/shop/
    https://www.decalsandstickers.co.uk/shop/letters-numbers/vinyl-letters-numbers/6mm-to-25mm-self-adhesive-vinyl-letters-or-numbers
    Quite reasonable prices and quick delivery too.
    Rob.
    https://www.decalsandstickers.co.uk/shop/
    ๐Ÿ”—
    https://www.decalsandstickers.co.uk/shop/letters-numbers/vinyl-letters-numbers/6mm-to-25mm-self-adhesive-vinyl-letters-or-numbers
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The hull graphics, and tackling the dreaded waterline!
    6 days ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
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    Many thanks Rob, will check tomorrow which bits I need.๐Ÿ˜Š

    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ“ Painting the Hull.
    25 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    The complete hull has had a coat of grey primer which revealed some minor imperfections and these were fixed before a second coat was sprayed and then flatted. After roughly masking off the hull sides the first of two coats of Halfords red oxide primer was sprayed and after removing the masking this was also flatted down with a 1000 grit W&D paper used wet.

    The next process was to establish the position of the waterline in the โ€˜test tankโ€™ (bath) and to get as true an indication of its position. After plugging the prop tube and water connections I thought it best to load up the hull with all the hardware and fittings that will go into and onto the boat, this included all the electrics and running gear and also all of the rubber that will be used for the fenders.
    Once in the water it settled just about where I expected it to and with some difficulty I managed to put some pencil marks on the bow and stern. After Iโ€™d finished all that I remembered that I perhaps could have tried the old โ€˜talcum powder on the waterโ€™ trick to mark the lineโ€ฆdoes it actually work?
    Anyway I donโ€™t think we have any talc!

    Back in the workshop I put the boat on the bench and set about converting the pencil marks into a waterline using my self-levelling laser and even at this stage I can sense that it will be difficult to apply a waterline where it crosses the lower chine whether I use vinyl tape or by masking and painting.
    I do so hate that aspect of boat modelling as Iโ€™ve always had trouble with itโ€ฆ.and I believe Iโ€™m not alone in that!!๐Ÿ˜ 

    Despite my reservations I continued by masking off the red oxide coat up to the waterline as accurately as possible using a low tack tape and masking paper. The first coat of Halfords black gloss went on well and didnโ€™t require much flatting after it dried properly but when I sprayed the second coat I think there was too much humidity after a rainy night so despite warming the workshop and hull the second black coat dried with a pronounced โ€˜blushโ€™ on the surfaceโ˜น๏ธ
    Disappointing but not a disaster because Iโ€™d always intended to spray a third and final coat anyway and even that will be lacquered over after the hull graphics are applied.
    So out with the 2500 grit paper and โ€˜elbow greaseโ€™ and very quickly the surface was prepared for the third coat which was sprayed on a very warm and dry day and resulted in a perfect finish.

    Meanwhile I have ordered some 4mm and 5mm vinyl pin-striping tape from my usual source and Iโ€™ll decide which looks the best โ€˜scaleโ€™ when it arrives.๐Ÿ˜
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    25 days ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
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    Will you leave the upper hull gloss black Rob? or overspray with a satin varnish.๐Ÿ˜

    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    25 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Pete.
    I'll be overspraying the red oxide with a satin lacquer and a gloss lacquer over the black. The cabin will have a gloss lacquer finish too as I want the 'gel coat fibreglass' look but first I need to apply the waterslide decals that I've made up๐Ÿ˜.
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    25 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    That is a very nice paint Finnish Rob.
    She is really looking good now.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    24 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Very nice job !
    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    23 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commander)
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    Looking at the finish of yours Rob, if I wasnโ€™t selling mine I would have junked it! Have had a few things to deal with past couple of weeks so have done nothing towards finishing mine. Hoping to break the back of it Tuesday and Wednesday ๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    22 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Sy.
    Thanks for your kind words ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜
    The paint process is the hardest thing for me and I tend to over compensate to get the best finish I can. Unfortunately that means I spend too long on that aspect when I should really be working on the deck fittings. And I keep putting off the dreaded waterline....๐Ÿ˜ 
    I have also been producing the graphics for my boat, vinyl for the hull and waterslide for the cabin.
    I know you've done yours already but not the Furuno radar logo?
    Let me know if you would like me to send you some waterslide logos for that.
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    22 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Captain)
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    Fantastic finish rob. I wish I had the patience to get these results. The atmosphere in the area that I paint is not perfect as it never sees the sun. Things will be a lot better when I move in to my retirement house next year. Loads of sun from March to November then.๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    22 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Peter
    I do my painting in the spray booth and while I can control the temperature in the workshop it's the humidity that I have to be careful of. I have to remember to check it before I start, anything above 60% can be a problem. I do warm the paint and the item first as well.
    Sounds like your moving to some exotic retirement paradise....possibly (obviously?) not even in the UK..๐Ÿ˜Ž
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    22 days ago by mturpin013 ( Captain)
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    Rob, that 'gel coat fibreglass' look seams to be there already, I think the key to this is having a structure that is blemish/joint free and it looks like you have achieved this in the pictures above.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    22 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Captain)
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    I am going to Hungary, just outside of Budapest. My wife is Hungarian so we are "going home". My cover picture is the bottom of the garden. Cannot wait. I have built a shipyard there. A 3M square shed.
    I will try and control the environment there. Humidity is usually quite low. Do you enjoy masking or is it just me that it drives mad. Does anybody like masking? Please can some kind soul tell me how to mask the deck close around the gunwales. It seems quite difficult. Next job on Dusseldorf.๐Ÿ˜
    Ooops! Sorry, I meant Bulwark. Good job I wasn`t a sailor. I would be painting the wrong parts.๐Ÿ˜
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    22 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Mike.
    I don't usually scratch build but I'm quite pleased with how the new cabin has worked out.
    The paint finish is ok as it is so
    the final lacquer coat is mainly to protect the cabin decals and vinyl hull graphics.
    Rob
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    22 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Pete.
    Masking is always time consuming but needs to be done properly. I'm very envious of your new boat house and 'back garden'
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    22 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    I hate masking tooโ˜น๏ธ๐Ÿ˜  Who doesn't?
    "Does anybody like masking? Please can some kind soul tell me how to mask the deck close around the gunwales. It seems quite difficult. Next job on Dรผsseldorf."
    Probably the easiest and quickest way to mask the fiddly bits๐Ÿ™„ is to use Revell Color Stop or similar from other suppliers. It's a kind of liquid rubber that you can brush on and it dries to a rubbery skin that you can peel off after spraying or brush painting. Works for me๐Ÿ˜Š
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    https://www.revell.de/en/products/colors-accessories/accesso...
    https://www.revell.de/en/products/colors-accessories/accessories/color-stop-30ml.html
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    21 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Doug.
    I've been using Humbrol Maskol for fine detail masking. it's a sort of latex fluid that you just paint on and then peel off afterwards.
    It comes off cleanly and does a good job.
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    21 days ago by Missouri ( Able Seaman)
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    Maskol eh? I wish I'd known about that earlier as it would have made my masking job easier. Does it peel to give a sharp line definition?
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    21 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Missouri.
    I've only used it to mask off small irregular shapes that would be impossible to mask by ordinary means but if you want a sharp edge I suppose you could paint it onto the surface, wait 'til it sets, trim a sharp edge with a blade, peel that off to reveal the sharp painting edge.
    I'd need to try that experiment to prove the theory๐Ÿค”
    Robbob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    21 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Robbob,

    I have used Tooth paste for masking of small tricky bits.
    I just use a cocktail stick to apply it then if you lit it dry for a while you can then use a scalpel to give you a sharp edge.
    When you are done lightly scrap it off and wash it.
    Smell's nice if you use mint one LOL!!!!!

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    21 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Looks like the same stuff - different bottle Rob๐Ÿ‘
    I use the Revell version cos Humbrol stuff is as rare as rocking horse droppings over hereโ˜น๏ธ
    And yes you can create a sharp line if put on fairly thick, left to dry well and carefully trimmed with a scalpel as you surmise.
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    21 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Missouri.
    For your benefit and my curiosity I just did a little test with some Maskol and it seems you can't trim it once dried despite how sharp your blade is, the Maskol just gets picked up on the blade and 'rolls up' leaving a jagged edge. So getting a sharp paint edge with Maskol is dependant on how well you can paint the edge. In that respect it works just as it's supposed to ๐Ÿ˜‰
    Robbob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    21 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Doug.
    Well my little experiment seems to prove otherwise and that was two thick coats left to fully dry and a fresh Swan Morton blade ! The substrate by the way was the matt side of some Plasticard sheet.
    Perhaps it does work with the Revell equivalent ?
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull.
    21 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    "the Maskol just gets picked up on the blade and 'rolls up' leaving a jagged edge"
    Hmm! Yep Maskol does look significantly different Rob.
    More jelly like, translucent and very flexible.
    Color Stop is an opaque beige colour and dries to a relatively stiff film which you can remove in strips / sheets without rolling up.
    Also I used a curved blade rather than a sharp pointed one so it cuts rather than dragging, and occasionally took the precaution of using a straight edge to guide it, e.g. end of a 6" steel ruler.
    Only snag with it is that if you don't use it for a few months it starts to go off in the bottle๐Ÿค”
    So far I've only used it on plastic kits, what it was designed for. But see no reason why it shouldn't work on any prepared sealed surface.
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    PS wondered where the pic (your pic #1)came from that snuck into my post! Might have guessed๐Ÿ™„ I quickly booted it back out again.
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    ๐Ÿ“ The New Cabin โ€“ Part 6
    30 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Thinking ahead about a practical storage solution for this boat I found some very large plastic storage boxes with lids in which this Pilot Boat can be safely stored.
    They are a perfect fit for length and beam but if I install a fixed mast on the boat it will either have to made smaller than scale to fit within the internal height of the box or alternatively I could make it foldable which might be difficult with the navigation light wiringโ€ฆ.hmmm ๐Ÿค”.

    Perhaps very slim supporting foam blocks in the bottom of the box instead of the supplied stand?......a problem for solving later ๐Ÿ˜€!

    I made the engine compartment air intake grilles from some 1.5mm ply with thin strips on the back so that I could rebate a fine stainless steel mesh with a black Plasticard backing piece. When painted silver and assembled they look quite good, I may try to replicate the fixing screws/bolts around the perimeter somehow. These will not be fixed onto the cabin until the final stages.

    The colour scheme Iโ€™ve chosen is โ€˜Lifeboatโ€™ Orange for the cabin, textured green for all the deck area and a red and black hull. Fortunately these colours are all available โ€˜off the shelfโ€™ from Halfords.

    I masked up the cabin and gave it two light coats of Halfords white primer, left it to dry overnight and then flatted ready for the first coat of the VW Brilliant Orange gloss. As always I wiped over the entire part with panel wipe to remove any residual dust and skin oils. The first orange coat was sprayed and left to thoroughly dry off and even at this stage the surface finish looks very smooth so all of the thorough paint prep is already proving its worth.

    In the meantime I made the small vents? that can be seen on either side of the cabin with the fourth one on the engine compartment roof. These are just small pieces of shaped Obeche sealed, primed and sprayed orange. One of them is a double piece and to make placing them easier I cyano glued them to some .5mm Plasticard as a pair. The other single pieces were also backed with Plasticard.

    I made up the engine room roof dummy window from ply and Plasticard and temporarily placed it on the cabin roof to gauge the position of the little roof vent.

    The other large protrusions on the cabin sides are some other kind of intake/vent/outlet? not quite sure what, but they were made up from laminated ply with all of the sides bevelled as in the real part. These were also backed with .5mm Plasticard trimmed to a narrow border then sealed, primed and painted orange before being cyano glued to the cabin sides.

    The cabin was then flatted with 1200 grit used wet to give a key, cleaned off with panel wipe and then given a second coat of orange gloss.
    Later it will get a third coat and then a gloss lacquer over that to seal the graphics that Iโ€™m producing and to provide the final high gloss finish I want ๐Ÿ˜Ž.

    The hull is primed and ready for paint so Iโ€™ll be doing that next.๐Ÿ˜
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 6
    30 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Rob,
    In my opinion the small detail work really makes a model and your skilful workmanship making these certainly prove the point.
    Well done.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 6
    30 days ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
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    The finish you have got on the orange paint is first class Rob, can't believe there is more to come๐Ÿ˜ฎ

    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 6
    28 days ago by kevinsharpe ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hi Excellent work especially on the fittings. Making a robust cabin structure creates a good foundation for fastening fittings to, otherwise difficult in flimsy structures were parts are easily knocked off. You could consider using two boxes - one for the hull and the other for the superstructure which is what I am going to do for two of my models which have prominent masts.

    Regards
    Kevin
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 6
    28 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Kevin.
    I need a strong roof mostly for the radar and the mast, hence the internal blocks.
    And since posting I have done a test fit with some foam blocks in the bottom of the big plastic box box so that the keel and prop clear the bottom by 10mm which means that I can have a 110mm high mast above the roof line which is more than enough.. a good result.
    The second box is for my Thames Police Launch and it does fit if the boat is put in with the bow angled up and stern low. Not ideal but it does the job ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 6
    28 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Captain)
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    I was wondering if Halfords spray paints were good to use. I now know the answer. They will be a lot cheaper than Tamiya paint. A lot more colours available too, so I will buy those in future.
    The model is really looking nice.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 6
    28 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi MouldBuilder
    Halfords rattle cans are OK, I've never had any major problems other than a dodgy can of white primer when I was building my Crash Tender. They're not the cheapest but at least you can buy them 'over the counter' and not worry about delivery charges for the cheaper types online or from eBay.

    The picture is the cabin after the second coat has been flatted with 2500 grit W&D ready for the final coat.

    By the way....what green colour did you use on your Aeronaut Pilot Boat deck?...just curious ๐Ÿค”
    Thanks.
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 6
    28 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Captain)
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    Hi Rob.
    I am sure that it is a Tamiya TS spray. I will check tomorrow as my garage door will wake up the neighbours.
    I will use Halfords in future. The colour range is vast and I am sure cheaper. 100ml rattle can from Tamiya is between ยฃ6 and ยฃ7 from my local model shop.
    When you use the 2500 grit W and D, do you use wet. The finish looks good.
    Peter.๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 6
    28 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Peter.
    I always use W&D paper wet and with a tiny bit of washing-up liquid to lubricate the surface.
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 6
    28 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    "I will use Halfords in future. The colour range is vast and I am sure cheaper."
    Which is great Peter, IF you have Halfords round the corner.
    Leider nicht der Fall hier in Mรผnchenโ˜น๏ธ
    For naval ships I use LifeColor or Sovereign Hobbies ex WEM colours.
    For 'fantasy' colours, e.g the Royal Blue on my Sea Scout, I use 400ml cans from the local Baumarkt (DIY/Builder's suppliers).
    For the final gloss lacquer I use the 2 part UV proof spray from the auto pros.๐Ÿ˜Š
    For the record: for the final stage of the 'flatting' on my Sea Scout hull and decks, I used 3000 grit wet + a drop of liquid soap ๐Ÿ˜‰
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 6
    25 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Captain)
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    Sorry Rob. Old age brain failure.
    The green deck is Tamiya TS-43 Racing Green.
    Peter.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 6
    25 days ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Peter.
    Thanks for checking and letting me know.
    I'm going to be spraying the deck with the Halfords textured green paint tomorrow and I'll see if it matches my expectations...if not I might get a tin of Emerald Green (RAL6001) from somewhere and go over it with that.
    Cheers.
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ“ The LED Floodlights.
    1 month ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    The LEDโ€™s I have used for the floodlights are SMD type (Surface Mount Device) and are incredibly small and difficult to work with but one of the advantages is that they can be easily built into small light fittings such as this ๐Ÿค“

    The chosen type are high intensity (1000mcd) ๐Ÿ˜Ž with a daylight white colour and cost less than ยฃ1 for ten. They arenโ€™t designed to have wires soldered to them which is another challenge but I have some .25mm (30AWG) solid core prototyping wire that is suitable and with a fine tipped iron can be soldered successfully, I did need to use my jeweller loupe to identify the anode (+ve) side though, and I made up ten wired LED assemblies with about 500mm of twisted wire each.

    The floodlight casing was made from 1.5mm Plasticard strips to form an open box section 12mm x 8mm and about 200mm long which will be more than enough for the 10 lights I need (actually nine and a spare).

    The box section bar was bevelled at one end by about 15 degrees and then cut off the bar to a length of 12mm. I then used some .7mm black Plasticard to line the inside of the box and then flatted both ends to make the black card flush at both ends. A 15mm length of 3mm square Plasticard tube was glued inside the back of the piece on all four internal faces and then some 1mm card used to close off the back of the box that is formed.

    The LED wires were then passed through from the front so that the LED sits firmly and deep within the box and then the part set in a holding jig while some clear epoxy resin is fed into the front of the box until itโ€™s full and producing a raised bump. I did de-gas the resin mix with a quick blast from my heat gun to remove as many small bubbles as possible that might cause problems when the epoxy is ground flat.

    The epoxy is just the 30 minute Z-Poxy stuff that I generally use, although I could use a special โ€˜water clearโ€™ casting resin but the Z-Poxy is more than adequate.

    After allowing the resin to cure over night I could then flat down the epoxy to be flush with the angled front of the box. Although I could polish the epoxy to be mirror smooth and completely clear I actually want a slightly rough surface that will obscure the LED and also diffuse the light to an even spread.

    The finished light fittings now have a white outer frame with an inner black frame and frosted lens and look very similar to the ones on the actual boat. I might try to simulate the six fixing around the light somehow.

    All eight of these deck lights along with a roof level floodlight above the rear cabin door will be wired to a circuit board with a dropper resistor for each and connected to one of the two R/C controlled switches that Iโ€™m using for this deck lighting with a second one for the mast lighting circuit and all of this lighting will be supplied from a separate battery supply.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The LED Floodlights.
    1 month ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Very clever idea Rob, will look great all lit up!
    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The LED Floodlights.
    1 month ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Nice work Rob,
    I know how tricky SMD'd can be as my last job before i decided to retire was a surface mount operator.
    I have even hand solders 0201 components.
    That was fun.
    That said i think you have done a great job.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The LED Floodlights.
    1 month ago by Ianh ( Warrant Officer)
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    Neat but my eyesight couldn't manage it!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The LED Floodlights.
    1 month ago by Skydive130 ( Commander)
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    Liking them lights Rob, Iโ€™ll perhaps use that concept in the future๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The LED Floodlights.
    1 month ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
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    Love the way you have replicated the lights Rob, you make it look simple, but I bet it's not๐Ÿ™„

    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The LED Floodlights.
    1 month ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Pete.
    Yes it's a real fiddly job soldering the wires to the LED chips but after that it's not too bad. I'm very happy that they've turned out quite well. I'm really quite enjoying detailing this boat but matching Sy's (skydive130) work is quite a challenge ๐Ÿ™„.
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The LED Floodlights.
    1 month ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
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    "I'm very happy that they've turned out quite well."
    you should be Rob, they have turned out Brilliant๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    It's great watching two builds of the same boat, but quite different also.๐Ÿ˜Š

    Cheers, Pete

    btw, What size of smd did you use, and what/if ohm resistor.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The LED Floodlights.
    1 month ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Pete.
    The LED's are a PLCC-2 package which are 3.5 x 2.8mm and on the 6v supply I'm using for testing it requires a 150R 1/4W resistor per LED. I might up-rate the supply voltage for all the lighting so that value will need to change for the floodlights.

    In terms of resistors, my stock of low value ones was getting quite depleted so I've replenished it with a new stock from eBay.
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BeiLan-1460-Pieces-Resistor-Kit-7...
    All for less than ยฃ9 including delivery and they arrived two days later !
    Should keep me going for a while ๐Ÿ˜
    Rob.

    EDIT...
    I forgot to mention that all the resistor bandoliers are printed with the resistor value so no need to consult my memorised colour codes ๐Ÿ˜€
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BeiLan-1460-Pieces-Resistor-Kit-73-Values-1-1-Ohm-1-M-Ohm-1-4-W-Metal-Film-Res/392812778384?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
    ๐Ÿ”—
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-White-PLCC-2-LED-SMD-SMT-3528-1210-Ultra-Bright-UK-1st-CLASS-POST/121329112501?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The LED Floodlights.
    1 month ago by Colin H ( Commodore)
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    Brilliant idea, I think my hands aren't steady enough to do it, but I might have to get the wife to try for me.
    Cheers Colin.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The LED Floodlights.
    1 month ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
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    Many thanks Rob, for the information, and the links๐Ÿ‘

    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ“ The New Cabin โ€“ Part 5
    1 month ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Before finally attaching the new cabin structure to the inner deck assembly I need to make the cut-outs for the โ€˜LED floodlightโ€™ fittings that Iโ€™m making.
    First I bored a hole through the cabin side and then enlarged this using files to the size and shape that I have previously marked out. These rectangular holes are 12mm x 8mm and they are angled down so that the LEDโ€™s cast their light onto the deck which made opening them out much more difficult as I needed them to be a consistent โ€˜boreโ€™ through the timber for the light fittings to be set into them correctly.
    To aid this I made up a Plasticard box section as a guide for the correct hole sizing and angles, this was particularly important for the two forward facing holes through the front of the cabin.

    With all of the floodlight holes completed the next thing on my list was to mark out the final size a shapes of all of the cabin front and roof windows and then cut them all out of the 1.5mm ply with a small craft knife and needle files (with extreme care!) ๐Ÿ˜ฐ as I wonโ€™t be able to do this very easily when the cabin is fixed down to the inner deck. To my relief I managed all of the cuts-outs without damage to the cabin or myself โ˜บ๏ธ

    The inside of the cabin was then given several coats of sanding sealer and when dry all the windows were masked off from the outside and given two coats of matt black spray paint. The radar motor assembly that Iโ€™m fitting has a black 3D printed reduction gearbox which will be fixed to the reinforcement blocks that I put in the roof and that will be invisible against the black. There will be no detailing inside the cabin and I hope to be able to use clear acrylic for the windows with a darkening film that is often applied to car windows (if my experiments applying the film works OK).

    Finally I could fix the new cabin down to the โ€˜oldโ€™ inner deck using epoxy, Iโ€™d previously fitted some guide blocks to the deck to properly locate the cabin while clamped down as the epoxy sets. Any gaps along the join line were filled and rubbed down and then I gave the entire cabin and deck multiple coats of Eze-Kote, flatted down between all coats, until the finish was super smooth and ready for priming.

    I will describe the making of the LED floodlight fittings in a separate part ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 5
    1 month ago by marky ( Captain)
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    Another masterclass Rob ,good luck with the rest of the build.
    Cheers Marky๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 5
    1 month ago by Skydive130 ( Commander)
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    Didnโ€™t know those holes were floodlights Rob, though they were just some sort of vents hence why I made mine the way I did. Iโ€™m really glad now itโ€™s going, Iโ€™m starting to hate mine! ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 5
    1 month ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Maybe I just spent more time researching the new cabin design than you ๐Ÿ˜€, perhaps one of the few benefits of being a slowcoach ๐Ÿ˜‚.
    Yours is looking pretty good anyway ๐Ÿ‘
    And mine is a 'keeper' so I have more incentive to get it as 'right' as I can make it (within reason) 'cos the devil's in the detail as they say.๐Ÿ˜‰
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 5
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Captain)
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    Rob Its looking really good as you say take your time and see the benefit
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 5
    1 month ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Excellent work as usual Rob.
    Really enjoying this build.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 5
    1 month ago by kevinsharpe ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Quick question.
    What glue are you using to bond the cabin wood parts together? I notice it appears to have a tan colour.

    Regards
    Kevin
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 5
    1 month ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Kevin.
    Thanks for following my blog, I hope you're enjoying it.

    The wood glue I use is TiteBond2, it's off white from the tube and dries slightly darker.
    It's called an aliphatic glue which has a different molecular structure in the way the molecular bonds are formed (apparently). I'm no chemist, that's what WiKi says about it ๐Ÿค“.

    It's similar to PVA which is white and dries clear but it's made specifically for woodworking and unlike PVA can be semi or wholly waterproof according to the grade you buy.

    All I know is that it sticks wood together with a fast and strong bond and doesn't fail if it gets wet ๐Ÿ˜
    Robbob.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aliphatic_compound
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 5
    1 month ago by Ianh ( Warrant Officer)
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    Can't find Titebond in South Africa. Very little of what glues we do have are weather resistant but not waterproof! So I reverted to old school Cascamite! Also use Gorilla/Gator Glue but it's a real s*d to work with! ๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ˜€
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 5
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Captain)
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    Great work Rob, as you say detailing is addictive, as I have found (I may have another post for the crash tender)
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 5
    1 month ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Mike.
    Agreed that detailing can become an obsession ๐Ÿ˜ฎ.
    I'm just experimenting with the tinted film on the roof and cabin windows and some custom waterslide decals for all the graphics on the boat. Very encouraging results with both so they'll be another feature on my boat.
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ“ The New Cabin โ€“ Part 4
    1 month ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    The front of the new cabin was tackled next and it incorporates a recess for the life raft canister so the construction is not as straightforward as a flat plane would be.

    Much like the cabin front windows it was a case of piecing it together without a framework because at this stage the cabin is not fixed down to the inner deck structure, however it came together quite well and with all of the panels in place it looks quite good.

    The rear of the cabin has windows and a door and the cut-outs for these were made at an earlier stage, the frames for both will be made from Plasticard as will the door. On the real boat this rear recess is framed at roof level and on both sides and I was careful to follow the angular roof line with the top piece, which extends above the roof line, using three separate pieces of Obeche strip.
    The side pieces which are flush the cabin sides but overlap the inside were made with in several sections too follow the angular profile of the back of the boat.

    There are two, presumably storage lockers, on either side of the rear door and these were made from an Obeche strip framework and 1.5mm ply panels.
    At this point I made some holes through the rear panel into the โ€˜storage lockersโ€™ to allow for some wiring to go through for the low level deck floodlights that Iโ€™ll be fitting, and in addition to this I fitted a 6mm block of ply in all of the places that these floodlights will be. These are not only for fixing the lights into but also to allow me to recess and angle the lights slightly as I have noted that they do on the real boats.
    There will be three floodlights on each side of the cabin and two in the steeply angled front of the engine compartment. A further floodlight will be fitted above the door on the back too.

    Another detail that is fairly easy to incorporate at this stage are the recesses on the cabin sides in which some boat hooks are stored.
    I presume that on the real boat they are recessed in a similar manner to the side bollards to prevent the crew from getting snagged on them as they move about the deck.

    I marked out the recess positions as accurately as possible with reference to the โ€˜photos, cut through the 3mm ply sides with a Stanley knife and shaped them with files to incorporate the sloping points where the boat hook fixings are located. The recesses were then closed off from inside the cabin with some ply strips.

    The last two โ€˜photos illustrate the differences between the old and new cabin.

    In the next part Iโ€™ll describe the LED Flood Lights that I have made using high intensity SMD ledโ€™s and fixing the new cabin to the inner deck.

    All of this additional detailing is quite time consuming, but I feel worthwhile, and as a relatively slow builder at this rate it will take quite a while to finish to my satisfaction. ๐ŸŒ๐Ÿ˜
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 4
    1 month ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Rob,
    Every time i look at your work i wish i was as good at woodwork as you.
    You make it look easy and extremely neat and tidy.

    I seem to of adopted a slightly strange way of model making compared to most and that includes material supply.
    One day i will have a go at making something using wood.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 4
    1 month ago by MouldBuilder ( Captain)
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    Love this wood work. The attention to detail is astounding. Looking forward to the next installment.๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 4
    1 month ago by Skydive130 ( Commander)
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    Hi Rob, I never built the kit cabin as I was always going to convert. The difference is amazing though, glad we went the route we did๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 4
    1 month ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Sy.
    I'm pleased that I followed your lead and opted to build a new cabin ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜€
    The 'kit' cabin was never particularly attractive and I originally intended to build it but to paint it in the orange and green scheme of one of the Southampton boats but this new cabin design has far more opportunities to detail authentically. Much more time consuming though โ˜น๏ธ
    I started my boat a month or more before you started yours and you've nearly finished yours while mine is still a good few weeks off completion !!
    Cheers.
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 4
    1 month ago by Ygagnon ( Leading Seaman)
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    I like all the detailed that you provide in the detailed construction. i can't wait to see the LED installation.
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    ๐Ÿ“ The New Cabin โ€“ Part 3
    2 months ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Before I could build the front windows I needed to fit the front cabin roof and like the others it is angled so I made some angled fillets to go across the roof bearers and then cut and shaped the roof panel. I used the scoring and bending technique described earlier to ensure that the roof angles were well defined.

    There are some 6mm ply support pieces on the cabin sides into which the railing will be fixed, these also add rigidity to the cabin sides.
    When the roof panel was glued in place I could then make a temporary support framework around which I could build the separate window facets that form the cabin windscreens. The large centre section of the roof was to a separate element that would be fixed in place once the windows were built around it.

    This process was a bit of a โ€˜make it up as you go alongโ€™ effort made more difficult by the need to keep the separating pillars between all the windows as narrow as possible so I couldnโ€™t really make a structural frame for the panels to fix to. Instead they are joined internally along their edges and then reinforced with a fillet behind each join. I decided that I would cut out the window apertures later on after the rest of the cabin was built just to retain the strength of the windows while building the rest of the roof structures.

    This process worked quite well and the result is reasonably geometrically accurate, but moreover looks quite faithful to the real boats front windows.

    After the centre section of the roof was fixed in place I was able to cut and fit the rear roof panel, again angled, and then a triangular fillet to replicate the angled step in the roof at that point. I also fitted some 4mm ply reinforcing pieces under the roofs in various places to make strong fixing points for the searchlights, radar unit and the rear mast assembly.

    The front engine room roof has a centre panel and this was cut from 1.5mm ply and fitted in place and there are also two slightly raised areas either side of that which were made from some .5mm ply.
    The last โ€˜photo shows a comparison of the new cabin against the old design.

    In the next part Iโ€™ll finish the front of the engine room roof and the rear of the cabin, cut out the boat hook recesses and make provision for the eight low level LED flood lights that Iโ€™ve decided to fit.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 3
    2 months ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
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    Loving the continuity of your build Rob, you certainly are a master of wood building, have not built many boats in wood, only aircraft, but I really enjoy watching your build blogs, just keep them coming.๐Ÿ‘


    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 3
    2 months ago by marky ( Captain)
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    Quite a difference between the old cabin and the new one .
    Nice build really enjoying it.
    Cheers Marky
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 3
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    WOW what a difference.
    You are doing a great job.
    Keep it up Rob.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 3
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Captain)
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    Hi Rob you now have two for the price of one or should that be (2 for THE EFFORT of one) (or twice the effort for one) whatever, a nice piece of wood work, I must say this is the best part of construction of a boat for me
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 3
    1 month ago by Skydive130 ( Commander)
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    Hi Rob, Iโ€™m really glad that my pilot boat is going to a new home on completion. The shape of your cabin is far superior to mine, and if was to have kept mine I would Have possibly considered rebuilding the cabin to a more accurate shape. I also like the fact youโ€™ve gone for the recessed side railings, which I was going to do if I had been keeping but went for the lazy simple option instead as itโ€™s going.

    I shall now be glad to see the back of mine ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚ kind regards Sy
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 3
    1 month ago by Skydive130 ( Commander)
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    Will you be glass clothing the cabin once completed Rob? If you are I donโ€™t envy all those facets to be clothed, but if you do I shall watch with interest how you tackle it for future reference.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 3
    1 month ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Sy.
    The recesses are actually for the boat hooks !
    I will be doing a 'full railings' job on this new cabin, stern, cabin sides and front pulpit, should look quite effective when it's done.
    I've done some tests using brass rod and tube to make the stanchions (silver soldered) which will allow me to adjust the railings for height, spacing and angle before they are finally soft soldered in place together.
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 3
    1 month ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    No glass cloth on this new cabin, I've been able to get a really good surface for paint just using Eze-Kote and elbow grease ๐Ÿ˜
    At the moment I'm spraying the VW Orange, just had to go to Halfords to get a second tin!!
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 3
    1 month ago by Skydive130 ( Commander)
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    The amount of times Iโ€™ve had to go for a second tin! Then I find myself running out of another colour and have to double back and replenish that! If only Halfords new what we do with their rattle cans ha ha!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 3
    1 month ago by Skydive130 ( Commander)
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    I shall also be doing a full set of the long cabin rails Rob, I was lucky to find these little brass eyes that are perfect for 1.5mm brass rod. I bought 2 packs of 10 which is enough for the long cabin rails. I wish Iโ€™d bought more, then I could have done the other rails the same way, but now I cannot remember which website I bought them from!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 3
    1 month ago by Skydive130 ( Commander)
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    Haha, so what are in fact boathook recesses are now a grab rail on my boat, oh well, the new owner will never know ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 3
    1 month ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
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    Come on Sy, get the memory hat on, would love to know where to buy such natty brass eyelets๐Ÿ˜


    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 3
    1 month ago by overthesea ( Able Seaman)
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    You can't bget a better finish for painting then Eze-Kote. Love the stuff, so easy.
    ๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 3
    1 month ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Sy.
    I used brass fishing weights as a test for my railings, and the results were actually very good but also very difficult to bore out from 1.5 to 2mm and grind a flat on one side to silver solder the rod to, so I decided to use 2mm brass rod and 2mm internal brass tube as they are quicker and easier to produce in the quantity I'll need.
    I'd be interested in finding out more about your 'brass eyes' though.
    Rob.
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PACK-OF-50-GOLDHEAD-COUNTERSUNK-BRASS-BEADS-GOLD-FINISH-4mm-for-Fly-Tying/264267369022?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
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    ๐Ÿ“ The New Cabin โ€“ Part 2
    2 months ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    I continued building the new cabin by adding bracing pieces between the cabin sides until it was a strong rigid structure. Reinforcement strips were glued to the insides of the cabin walls to strengthen the area where the sides have been bent for the secondary angle of the sides. These strips of 4mm ply are also quite wide because they will be where the brass cabin handrail stanchions will be supported so I need them to be quite strong and thick at that point.

    A new bulkhead was added below the front window area which was also lightened with some large holes that will also allow me to run wiring to the forward deck floodlights. More on the lighting later.

    As all of the new cabin is very angular in appearance, including all of the roofs, I was careful to preserve this distinctive feature. The rear roof initially appears to be curved but this too is angled over its width. Several roof bracing pieces were fitted between the cabin sides and then three angled roof supports made to fix to them. These pieces, which set the height of this part of the roof, were cut and slotted to receive three โ€˜stringersโ€™ that will add strength and support the roof skins.

    The rear roof section which also houses the navigation lights in was built up using an angled cross piece that sets the roof height and the navigation light areas made using off-cuts.
    The bollard cut-outs on the sides were cut down with a razor saw and then carefully bevelled with a file. The inner back pieces were then glued in place to form the deep recess where the bollards will be fitted.

    The front and roof windows are going to be quite tricky to build, particularly because I donโ€™t want to use any roof braces which would be seen through the roof windows and because I want to make all of the roof dividing pillars as slim as possible to replicate what I see in the โ€˜photos of the real boat.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 2
    2 months ago by Skydive130 ( Commander)
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    Very nice Rob, youโ€™ve gone a lot more belt and braces than mine, but Iโ€™ve found that once itโ€™s on the removable deck, itโ€™s solid. I was limited to what wood I had in the scrap box, and Iโ€™ve found that my supplies of wood, brass rod, plasticard, and all the other stuff I use for scrap building has taken a major hit over the last 2 builds due to the pandemic. Once my model shop in Essex reopens, I will have a major spend!

    Iโ€™m currently adding the details to mine, it comes alive with a few added lumps and bumps ha ha.

    Kind regards Sy
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 2
    2 months ago by Colin H ( Commodore)
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    Masterclass to us mortals, it looks like it could withstand any weather and waves.
    A true piece of modelling at its best, following with enthusiasm.
    Well done shipmate.
    Cheers Colin.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 2
    2 months ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Sy.
    Fortunately I had ordered from SLEC all the new wood I needed for the new cabin.
    I also tend to build with strength and durability in mind, hence the over-the-top foundations ๐Ÿ˜
    BTW. I've found some more 'photos that will help me with some deck detailing too.
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 2
    2 months ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Nice job, looking very solid!
    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 2
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    I agree with you Colin; 'Built like the proverbial brick whatsit house'!๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    As always, a fascinating and most instructive Blog Rob๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    PS Krick and Conrad have been doing business as usual during 'the big nuisance'.
    So supplies have been delivered with their usual alacrity; 1 to 3 working days.
    STILL waiting for my microscope (like Ed's) from China thoughโ˜น๏ธ Bin 4 weeks already.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 2
    2 months ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
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    Really enjoy watching your build Rob, the extra you put in makes the final job look so good, you really are a master of wood building, just wish I could build to your standards.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘


    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 2
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Nice woodworking skills Rob.
    The superstructure is coming along nicely.
    It is a shame you have to cover it up LOL!!

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 2
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Captain)
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    Very nice woodwork. This will look much better than the original. ๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin โ€“ Part 2
    2 months ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Doug.
    I'm pleased to hear that you favourite German suppliers are operating normally, most in the UK are too but with some postal delays.

    I ordered my ESC from HobbyKing on 31st May from the HK warehouse and it has only just been delivered to me this morning, so about 22 days in all. Previous orders from HK have only taken about a week !

    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ“ The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    I had actually completed constructing the original cabin some weeks ago, itโ€™s not a particularly attractive item but it is true to the original Veron design even though it is lacking in any real detail. It was only when Skydive130 announced that for his Harbour Pilots Boat he was going to re-model the cabin along the lines of a range of Pilot Boats that operate on Southampton Water in the UK that I looked at the already finished โ€˜kitโ€™ version and considered a similar approach.

    These pilot boats, made by a division of Vosper Thornycroft, have a much more modern appearance and because they have been widely photographed there is a greater opportunity to use them as a reference to add scale detail to the re-designed cabin. Of the four very similar boats that operate in Southampton I chose โ€˜Hamsteadโ€™ as my point of reference mostly because it has a distinctive green deck which makes it different to the other three which are all photographed with black decks.
    You can see what this particular boat is doing at this very moment by looking at the VesselTracker website.

    Skydive130 had already started constructing his version, and on seeing his excellent progress and the viability of the re-design I made the decision, after some deliberation, to abandon finishing the โ€˜Veronโ€™ cabin on my boat and effectively start again. And so following my request he very kindly sent me some rough dimensions of his version for me to use as a starting point for my own.

    By using his sketch and examining many of the photographs of the โ€˜Hamsteadโ€™ Pilot boat in great detail from all angles I drew up a side and rear view of the new cabin using โ€˜Mk 1 eyeballโ€™ and a great deal of guesswork to get the angles and proportions looking about right. The new cabin has to be the same width and length as the old one and have the same bottom curvature to fit correctly onto the existing inner deck part but other than that the design can be whatever you choose to make.

    When I was confident of the practicality of the new design I ordered some new ply and Obeche strip from SLEC which was delivered just two days later, excellent service in view of the current (Covid 19) situation ๐Ÿ‘

    The first thing to do was remove the old cabin structure from the inner deck piece that could still be utilised on the new design, and happily I was able to separate the two quite cleanly without much damage and only requiring a little filler to make good in a couple of places.
    And so I started by transferring the drawing to the new 3mm ply sheet for the cabin sides using the time honoured method of making pin holes through the drawing into the wood and then joining up all the dots.

    Fortunately 3mm birch ply is easily cut with a โ€˜Stanley Knifeโ€™ (always with a new blade!) and very quickly both cabin sides and the rear cabin wall pieces were cut and trimmed to be identical, including all of the window cut-outs.

    From here on the construction is very much a case of โ€˜making it up as you go alongโ€™ but the most crucial aspect was to get the cabin sides angled correctly. There are actually two angles on the cabin sides, one to just below the window line which then changes to a different angle to the roof above that.

    This change in angle of the cabin sides was achieved by scoring the inner face of the cabin sides through two of the three wood plies and then carefully making a bend along that line without snapping the remaining ply.
    This worked very well and so I was then able to assemble the two cabin sides to the rear cabin wall and add some bracing pieces to form the basic structure, making sure that everything was โ€˜squareโ€™. The angled bend in the ply will be reinforced later in the build.

    I made some cut-outs on the side pieces where the side bollards are recessed and glued some overlapping ply over them, these will be later filed and bevelled and an extra back piece glued over the opening to form the deep recess for the bollards.

    The last photograph is the standard 'kit' cabin just as a reference for later comparison with the new cabin.

    On with the build in the next part. ๐Ÿ˜
    https://www.vesseltracker.com/en/Ships/Pilot-Boat-Hamstead-I1784894.html
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Very nice work Rob.

    That is quite a difference.
    In the forward part of the superstructure instead of four port holes it has a rectangular window.

    Are you cutting that out later ?

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Martin.
    Unlike the three roof windows I won't be making that one a 'real' window.
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Is there any particular reason for that Rob ?

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Only that there's nothing to see inside at that point and access to the area is difficult when the cabin is fixed down to the inner deck structure.
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by Skydive130 ( Commander)
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    Hi Rob, superb update and many thanks for your kind mentions in the narrative. Iโ€™m please that youโ€™ve increased the cabin camber, looks so much better, but as the difference isnโ€™t drastic compared Iโ€™m happy to continue my build and not subject it to the scrap box ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚.

    My build has now become a commission build! I guy at my old base was desperate for a model for his son, and has dangled a large enough financial carrot for me to finish it and let it go after test sailing. Iโ€™m now going to go back to HobbyKing and purchase their ยฃ25 transmitter/receiver set because heโ€™s not getting mine! To that point, Iโ€™m now only going to fit the working radar, searchlights and navlights saving fitting the mast light array.

    I may build another in the future, but donโ€™t normally have the inclination to build the same model twice, and as Iโ€™ve managed to get a mountfleet models steam tug off eBay at a very nice price unstarted, that will be my next build thread especially as I have a good build reference in a model boats mag from a couple of years ago.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    "my next build thread "
    Looking forward to that Sy๐Ÿ‘
    Which tug is she?
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Sy.
    Good news about the commission build and the new tug project on the blocks ๐Ÿ‘
    I've decided to go a bit overboard with the detailing on my boat so I'll be doing all the handrails, pulpit, deck fittings working low level deck lighting, rear floodlight and all the mast lights (probably).
    Mine will probably be a 'keeper' ๐Ÿ˜
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by hmsnostalgia ( Able Seaman)
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    A fine looking craft to model, I also like the choice of boat 'Hampstead' & it's green decking, to stand out from the others in the flotilla, CONGRATULATIONS ๐ŸŽŠ by the way of your promotion to Commadore, ( appropriate for a flotilla commander) ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜€
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Congrats from me too Commodore๐Ÿ‘
    Well earned. Welcome to our cadre of Flag Rankers๐Ÿ˜‰
    Herewith your new Pennant and epaulette.
    Cheers, FLEET// ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    I agree with Fleet,
    Well earned. Commodore.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Well....thank you all for your congratulatory messages.
    One of the 'Flag Rankers' now eh !....
    Or is that a euphemism for something else ๐Ÿ˜‰
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    "Or is that a euphemism for something else ๐Ÿ˜‰"
    Not that I know of Commodore.


    But I'm working on it!๐Ÿ˜‰
    FLEET// ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by Nerys ( Commodore)
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    That looks really good Rob, great improvement and your building skills are pretty good too. Many congratulations on your elevation to flag rank, well deserved.

    All the best, Nerys
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Nerys.
    Thank you for your kind words.
    It looks like you'll be joining the 'Flag Rankers' yourself quite soon ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜€
    (I'm almost convinced that Doug is taking the P*#s) ๐Ÿคฃ
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Oh woe is me, for I am but misunderstood๐Ÿค”๐Ÿ˜ญ

    Only 'almost convinced' Commodore?
    I see I must try harder!
    Fly your Flag with pride Commodore Robbob.
    (But only when you are actually on board the vessel flying it!)
    FLEET// ๐Ÿ˜
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
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    Really enjoying your build of this pilot boat Rob, I'm going to pinch your idea of half scoring the ply, to get a slight bend on the cabin side๐Ÿ‘.
    Congrats on your promotionโœ”โœ”โœ”โœ”โœ”โœ”


    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi Pete.
    Glad to hear you're enjoying my build blog ๐Ÿ˜Š
    I didn't mention that when scoring to bend ply that you should actually make a couple of fine parallel cuts to form a 'v' shape to allow the wood to fold without the two faces of the cuts coming together, for good measure I run a razor saw down the vee groove as well to a consistent depth and width. When you gently bend the ply it's the last layer of ply that's flexing and because the cut edges don't meet there's nothing to force that last ply apart so it shouldn't crack ๐Ÿคž
    I hope that's helpful.
    Rob.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Captain)
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    That is an improvement Rob. Very nicely done. How do you cut window holes with a Stanley knife without extended cut marks or red stains on the ply. This is why most of my boats are red. No need to paint though.๐Ÿ˜Š
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
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    Thanks for the extra tip Rob, very much appreciated,
    wish I had spoken to you last year at the model engineering show at Ally Pally, was on your stand taking photo's of your boats, and the couple I were with, (non boaters) engineer buffs, dragged me away to look at some lathe or other, maybe next year if they have the show, we might get to meet.๐Ÿ˜


    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    Hi MouldBuilder.
    I cut the window holes with very great care and a very sharp blade !
    Incidentally, the potential for injuring yourself with a blade is inversely proportional to the sharpness of said blade !
    Also I took great inspiration for DIY from the great Mr K Everett, seen here demonstrating his supreme skills in precision cutting...... a master at work.
    Rob.
    The Best of Kenny Everett Reg Prescott Diy
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by robbob ( Commodore)
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    View Video
    Hi Pete.
    All of us at the St.Albans club are hoping that the Ally Pally show goes ahead in Jan '21.
    I look forward to meeting you there....tell your non boating friends to go look at the choo choo trains ๐Ÿ˜†
    Hopefully my Pilot Boat will be on display too.
    Here's a link to the video I made of the show: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ar8bwZSyB8w
    Rob.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ar8bwZSyB8w
    ๐Ÿ”—
    https://stalbansmes.com/
    ๐Ÿ”—
    London Model Engineering Exhibition 2020
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Rob,
    I fell about laughing the first time i saw this and this time i did the same.

    Unfortunately i have a friend that is the same as Reg Prescott so i was pleases when they announced a lockdown but that did very little for his safety.
    He still ended paying two trips to the hospital.

    He is the sort of guy that could cut off a finger whilst knitting.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    2 months ago by marky ( Captain)
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    Looks like one of my old technical classes๐Ÿ˜‰
    A wee story ,when I taught metalwork at the college of art I had a student that no matter what we did she always set something on fire mostly herself ,arc welding ,gas welding /cutting ,forge work something would go up in flames the Health and safety officer used to have a heart attack every time he knew she would be in the workshop๐Ÿคฃ
    Cheers Marky ๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The New Cabin- Part 1
    1 month ago by Nerys ( Commodore)
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    Being a normal mortal I can only look on open mouthed at the work and devotion to detail that you have lavished on this model. All praise!.

    Cheers, Nerys
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