|||
Current Website Support
90
Contributors
12
Subscribers
You are Not Registered
Donate for your silver medal ๐Ÿ…
ยฃ10
ยฃ15
ยฃ25
ยฃ50
Subscribe for your gold medal ๐Ÿ…
ยฃ1
ยฃ3
ยฃ5
ยฃ10
You Will Be Helping Towards:

  • Domain Fees
  • Security Certificates
  • iOS & Android App Fees
  • Website Hosting
  • Fast Servers
  • Data Backups
  • Upkeep & Maintenance
  • Administration Costs

    Without your support the website wouldn't be what it is today.

    Please consider donating towards these fees to help keep us afloat.

    Read more

    All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

    Many thanks for your kind support
  • Join Us On Social Media!
    Model Boats Website
    Model Boats Website
    Home
    Forum
    Build Blogs
    Media Gallery
    Boat Clubs & Lakes
    Events
    Boat Harbour
    How-To Articles
    Plans & Docs
    Useful Links
    29

















    Followers
    SLEC Harbour Pilots Boat by Robbob
    by robbob ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ( Vice Admiral)
    ๐Ÿ“ฃ










    Click To
    Follow
    34 Posts 427 Comments 9 Photos 391 Likes
    Most recent posts shown first   (Show Oldest First) (Print Booklet)
    ๐Ÿ“ The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    While the paint is drying on the pulpit handrail and safety rail itโ€™s a good opportunity to continue making up the glazing and frames for the roof windows.
    I started making these a while ago and as the cabin now nears completion they will need to be fitted soon.

    The roof windows on the real harbour pilot boats are heavily tinted so that the crew, and the helmsman in particular, are able to look skywards when alongside a vessel that the pilots are about to board without being blinded by strong sunlight. Iโ€™m sure that this is not the case during a night time boarding but perhaps thatโ€™s where the two small searchlights come into play?

    I did search around for some dark tinted Perspex or similar for these windows and although it is available in Perspex in thicknesses of over 6mm itโ€™s not generally available it seems.
    Tinting spays for car windows and lighting clusters would be an alternative but better than that is the tinting film that can be applied to car windows.
    This stuff is readily available in a range of translucency from just 5% light transmission to about 85% translucency.
    Normally it is bought by the linear metre but I found an eBay seller that could sell โ€˜sample sizesโ€™ and very little cost and as Iโ€™m only covering a tiny area this was a very economical way to do it.

    I started by making a template of all three roof window apertures and transferred these to my chosen window plastic which is 1.5mm clear Lexan. Each window was initially roughly cut from the sheet with a craft knife and then shaped very carefully by cutting and filing. I kept the protective film on both sides of the Lexan while doing this to preserve the faces of the plastic.
    All three windows were made to be a friction fit in the apertures and will be eventually glued in place with canopy glue. All of the edges were bevelled very slightly so that the window film, when applied, would not be lifted by a ragged edge.

    The tinting film I bought for these roof windows is described as โ€˜Limoโ€™ grade with a 5% light transmission so they will in effect look black from the outside ๐Ÿ˜Ž.
    A piece of this was roughly cut to size for the centre square window and the protective film peeled away from the outside face of the plastic. Following the supplied instructions for applying the film, which I wonโ€™t go into detail here, I was able to get the film on without any ripples or bubbles.

    I repeated this for the two smaller roof windows and set them aside for the film to fully bond and cure before trimming away the surplus with a very sharp knife.
    I decided to make the window frames for these roof windows from strips of 1mm Plasticard sheet rather than cut them out of a sheet in one piece which is quite wasteful and one slip of the knife could easily ruin the piece.

    Another template was made of the window apertures and these were re-drawn with a 1.5mm internal and external overlap to give an overall 3mm wide frame and I cut some 1mm Plasticard into 3mm wide strips and tacked these down on the drawing paper to form the basic frames. The internal corner gussets were cut and glued in place on the paper too. Styrene cement was used to bond all of the frame pieces together and when fully set the three window frames were released from their paper backing.
    It was then a case of laboriously cutting, trimming and filing the internal and external corners to make the final frame shapes ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    The corner joints needed very little filling to conceal any blemishes and the frames were gently flatted on some mild abrasive paper.

    A light coat of primer followed by two coats of silver spray paint and finished with clear gloss lacquer saw the frames nicely finished and ready for fitting.

    These, like the roof window panels will be fixed in place with canopy glue.

    The cabin front and side windows will be made in a similar way but with a much milder tint which Iโ€™ll describe in a separate blog update.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    13
    20
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Rob,
    It may be time consuming work but well worth it in the end.
    Excellent results.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Thanks Martin.
    As you can see the front frames are done too but strangely the side window frames are proving much easier to do, I suppose having proved a methodology the task becomes easier ๐Ÿ˜Š
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    6
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by Missouri ( Leading Seaman)
    Flag
    Another neat bit of fabrication๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by Skydive130 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hi Rob, your method of making the window frames from 3mm strips glued and gussets added, genius! Iโ€™ve always cut out the hole thing, and they donโ€™t always go to plan, thatโ€™s going to be my method from now, many thanks for that๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘

    Kind Regards Sy
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Captain)
    Flag
    Really impressive Rob. Thanks for such a detailed explanation as usual. I will give this a go as they really look effective. I have a new SLEC model to make next year which will suit this perfectly.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    Peter.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Sy.
    I remember your comment in your build blog about the window frames and that was "so many hours of your life you'll never get back" which is what prompted me to consider an alternative method.
    It's still laborious โ˜น๏ธbut proved an efficient use of materials ๐Ÿ˜.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Missouri.

    "Another neat bit of fabrication"

    Another bit of very time consuming fabrication actually ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    I think my next project will have to be a bit less detailed for a change.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Peter.
    Thanks for the kind words ๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ‘
    Out of interest what SLEC model have you chosen?
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by mturpin013 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Patience is a virtue (of which I have none) is the usual saying, however you seem to have bucket loads. Nice work Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Mike.
    "Patience is a virtue "......
    I have a few virtues but I am noted more for perseverance than patience ๐Ÿ˜†
    Having started something I will usually finish it unless it 'aint gonna work (see 'Chrome Paint' saga) โ˜น๏ธ
    Cheers.
    Rob.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜Š
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
    Flag
    Yet another job successfully completed Rob, you have a great talent for explaining your build as well as showing us the intricate work you do on all your builds.
    Did you put the tint film on the top side or the bottom side? and have you got a link please.๐Ÿ˜Š

    Cheers Pete
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Pete.
    Thanks for the compliments ๐Ÿ˜Š. I do take a lot of trouble writing an interesting and informative blog and illustrate it with supporting 'photos. A lot of the recent ones were taken on my Samsung 'phone but it doesn't do 'macro' shots very well โ˜น๏ธ

    The film was applied to the outer face of the Lexan windows so that there's no internal refraction within the plastic which might create a double image reflection.

    Here's a link to the eBay seler: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-WINDOW-TINT-AUTO-TINTING-FILM...
    When ordering click on A5 sample and select the 'film shade' required.

    Not bad for 99p each including combined postge ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜

    I ordered the 5% shade for the roof windows and a 35% for the front and side windows.

    I hope that's helpful.
    Rob.
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-WINDOW-TINT-AUTO-TINTING-FILM-LIMO-BLACK-DARK-MEDIUM-LIGHT-ULTRA-LIGHT/112243867746?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
    ๐Ÿ”—
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
    Flag
    Many thanks for the info Rob, really appreciate it.๐Ÿ˜Š

    Cheers, Pete
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    No problem Pete.
    Glad to be able to share it ๐Ÿ˜Š.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Nice job on the windows Rob,- clever idea with the frames a well, as they are a tricky item to make. Tint looks great also.๐Ÿ‘

    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by hmsnostalgia ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    Flag
    Robbob I must say that tinting the windows REALLY makes the cabin stand out, but they look very dark, how can you tell if they're the correct opacity (blimey there's a word I've not used in a while !!) ๐Ÿ™„
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by hmsnostalgia ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    Flag
    Robbob, if I know you at ALL, you'll find it very difficult NOT to add detail !! ๐Ÿคฃ
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    4 days ago by hmsnostalgia ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    Flag
    Robbob, shame about the 'chrome debacle', I was looking forward to that final flourish !!. ๐Ÿ™
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    3 days ago by Ianh ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    I tried using Tamiya Smoke Spray once and I made a dreadful job, I couldn't get a consistency in tint as it tends to collect in patches
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Cabin Roof Windows.
    3 days ago by Cashrc ( Lieutenant Commander)
    Flag
    Rob, this is looking sweet. I scrolled down to the pulpit and I am impressed. Keep up the good work!!๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ The Pulpit Pt 2
    6 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Before I could solder the safety rail to the pulpit I had to wind the rope handgrip around the handrail as doing it after the rail is in place would be very tedious and be a bit like a โ€˜needle and threadโ€™ process.
    I had previously done some tests with some rigging cord left over from a previous build and it looked very good indeed ๐Ÿ˜Š.

    While applying the โ€˜ropeโ€™ so I found that the chrome paint was very easily dulled and smudged even after leaving it for a couple of days to harden so I have abandoned the idea of a chrome finish on the exposed sections of the handrail and now Iโ€™ll just use some good silver paint that I know I can lacquer over to provide the required shine and give it some protection too.

    After tacking one end with cyano I had to wind the โ€˜ropeโ€™ around the 2mm brass rod as tight as possible and then tack the end where it met the next joint. The process was repeated until all the handrail was covered and the effect is very realistic and all that I hoped for.

    The rope was given three coats of matt acrylic lacquer applied by brush to fix and consolidate it. I did consider dyeing the rope to a darker colour but it doesn't really need it as in most of the reference photo's Im using it does appear quite light in colour.

    The brass safety rail was then fixed in place with tinned copper wire loop through the pairs of 1mm holes that I had pre-drilled and the loops tightened to hold them in place. The rail was adjusted in height using the cabin handrail and safety rail as a guide.

    Some flux was applied to the joints and soldered. The fast heat from the 100w iron had little or no effect on the paint or the rope binding.
    The twist of wire was cut back as close to the safety rail as possible and the remaining โ€˜stumpโ€™ filed flush to the rail. Any remaining flux was then cleaned off and the joint tidied up where required.
    I will finish off by masking off the rope and handrail and spraying a coat of etch primer, silver gloss and gloss lacquer. The Pulpit joints will be brush painted and lacquered.

    This will be the method Iโ€™ll use when finishing the handrails on the main cabin.
    Itโ€™s disappointing that the chrome finish proved to be unsuitable โ˜น๏ธ but Iโ€™d rather use conventional paints for the sake of durability.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    11
    27
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    6 days ago by mturpin013 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Great job rob, Its a pity the chrome paint didn't work out but that is exactly what I found when I used it, its OK as long as you don't touch it. I'm sure your second option will be fine resulting in a fine detail on the boat.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    6
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    6 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Mike.
    Yes, it's a disappointing result but it's one of those cases of 'style over function' it may look good, briefly, but after that it quickly deteriorates and at that point the 'regret' kicks in.

    Far better to bail out of a situation than like this and revert to a tried and tested method.
    Nothing wrong with experimenting and in a way I'm glad I tried it, perhaps the paint I found isn't as good as jbkiwi's Duplicolor stuff which may be a much better formulation.๐Ÿค”
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    5
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    6 days ago by Skydive130 ( Captain)
    Flag
    That pulpit is the โ€œMutts nutsโ€ Rob! I remember adding rope to my โ€œOrcaโ€ earlier in the year, really adds another level of realism ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    6 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Thanks Sy.
    I thought I'd try the technique out on the pulpit first to see how it looked.
    I feel that I've spent a disproportionate amount of time on the railings and I've still to do the rear safety rails yet. But by them I'll be more confident with a tried and tested method.
    Once these blinkin' railings are done I can finish all the glazing and fit all the cabin detailing parts that a waiting patiently in their little storage bags๐Ÿ˜.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    5
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    6 days ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
    Flag
    The rope handgrip has come out really well Rob, the cord you used from 'Modelling Timbers' who sadly are no-more, if you're like me, I stocked up on a lot of his cord/rope before he stopped doing the shows, he still occasionally sells on Ebay, so if you need anything, just keep an eye out.๐Ÿ˜Š

    Cheers, Pete
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    6 days ago by Ianh ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    Hi Rob
    Sorry about the chrome. Tamiya doe a 'Chrome Silver' but don't expect a sparkling effect. But it does look like hard chrome/ polished stainless steel. You would Tamiya primer as well and clearcoat after.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    6 days ago by Missouri ( Leading Seaman)
    Flag
    That's the benefit of trial/experimentation. It's never a 'failure' as something is always learnt even if it's what doesn't work. Nice touch of realism in the hand grip.๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    5
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    6 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Exceptional work yet again Rob.
    This is another boat that when looking at the photos it will be difficult to tell if you are looking at the real thing.
    Keep it up.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    6 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Ian.
    I do have some Tamiya 'Chrome Silver' acrylic brush-on paint which I've used elsewhere very successfully. I did at one point consider looking into getting the brass parts powder coated but then remembered that the oven baking process may not be compatible with the soft soldered elements of the construction ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    That and the likely extravagant cost made that a short lived idea ๐Ÿ˜‰
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    6
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    6 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Martin.
    Thanks for the kind words and encouragement, I think when I've finished this one I'll do some proper photograpy to show it at it's best.
    Rob.
    Oh...and shoot a decent video too...when I am finally able to visit the club boating lake ๐Ÿ˜ญ
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    6 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Looking forward to that Rob.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    5 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Pete.
    Re: ModellingTimbers.
    I did get a lot of very nice fittings from them for my FireBoat including the gratings, blocks & pulleys and a range of rigging cord like the one used here.
    Sadly Keith Jewell retired and closed the business due to ill heath a couple of years ago.
    He was very helpful in assisting me to chose bits of the right scale and a delight to talk to.
    A real 'Diamond Geezer' ๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ‘.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    5
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    5 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Shame the chrome didn't work out Rob, but I think this looks a lot better anyhow. A bit of 'string' always looks good on a boat. Very nice job on the railings. I did the same using cotton on the wheel on my MTB, and although it was very frustrating due to the size, and took forever, the end result was worth it.
    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    5 days ago by hmsnostalgia ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    Flag
    Robbob, I definitely think that your latest project is going to top your last one and I'm looking forward to seeing the final product, let's hope that's sooner than later!! ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    5 days ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
    Flag
    Yes Rob, I agree with you, Keith is a great chap, and we still converse via email, as I said, even though he has retired from doing shows, he still keeps his hand in with selling bits on Ebay, I have just bought some amazing fine covered wire from him, and posted the link.๐Ÿ˜Š

    Cheers, Pete

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-MODEL-BOATS-FITTINGS-NEW/26489...
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-MODEL-BOATS-FITTINGS-NEW/264892016128?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2
    ๐Ÿ”—
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    5 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Pete.
    After you mentioned it I found his eBay sales site, it's good to know that he's doing his bit for us model makers. And I'm not surprised to see that he has 100% feedback too.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    5 days ago by stevedownunder ( Warrant Officer)
    Flag
    Lovely work Rob.
    Cheers,
    Stephen.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    5 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Thank you Stephen.
    Praise indeed from metalworking expert such as yourself๐Ÿค—.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    4 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Update..
    Now the pulpit has had it's coats of silver and lacquer and now looks nice and shiny.
    The difference between this and chrome finish is minimal๐Ÿ˜Ž
    I'm glad I put plan B in operation ๐Ÿ˜Š
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    5
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    4 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Rob,
    I think the Finnish is very good.

    There comes a time when you have reach the bit when you have to say to your self "that is as close as i can get".

    I wonder if someone could come up with a cheep and simple way of chroming small brass parts for our models.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    4 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Martin.
    Although I've never looked into the cost of 'proper' chroming I have seen comments on this site and others that a commercial plating company is just likely to quote a 'go away' price (I've tamed that down a lot ๐Ÿ˜ฎ) because they're not interested in small piece work.
    If the modelling community could find a metal plating outfit that was sympathetic to us hobbyists and our aims, he might just be able pick up enough work to provide a service at a reasonable cost.
    Has anyone had any experience of this?
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    4 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Rob,
    I would think that no company would take this on due to the nature of the small parts and the fact that they are delicate.

    A home plating "How-To" would be good.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    4 days ago by Colin H ( Commodore)
    Flag
    Yes thats true of most businesses, but there used to be a platers in the Forest of Dean, Lydney I think.
    Whenever we had a small amount of parts for vintage motor bikes they were very obliging and the quality was excellent.
    The smallest parts I can remember sending was the toggle switch handles and I think the largest was a pair of exhaust pipes I had made for a very old Ariel twin.
    They also did black chrome, which I have used on machine parts.
    Sorry I can't be more helpful, if I can find out their details I will post it as it may be of interest to others.
    Cheers Colin.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    4 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Colin.
    Thanks for the response ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘, if you can find the details of the plater you mention it may be worth following up.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    4 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Martin.
    "A Home Plating How-To" would be interesting but from what I know about the chrome plating process involves lots of tanks of some nasty chemicals ๐Ÿ˜ฎ.
    Not the sort of 'cottage industry' you can undertake safely.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    4 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Just a thought Rob.
    I would imagine when you polish the little parts to get that shiny finish you would probably break most of them.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Pulpit Pt 2
    2 days ago by Ianh ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    From what I can remember bright chrome plating at home is not advisable due to the chemicals involved.
    Also, electro platers are getting scarce as bright chrome isn't used on cars anymore.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ The Chrome Paint Test.
    10 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    I would like the handrails on the boat to have a nice shiny chrome finish and having seen jbkiwiโ€™s ladders for his Hartley Flareline with a chrome paint finish I thought Iโ€™d give some a try.
    I couldnโ€™t find any of the Duplicolor paint that he used and had to choose one of a number of alternatives that are available. I also ordered some etch primer which Iโ€™d used successfully before.

    The paint test was to be certain that the primer and chrome finish didnโ€™t react with each other and to see if the resulting chrome finish could be enhanced or at least protected by a gloss lacquer.
    I used a piece of brass tube with a silver soldered brass piece on the end as my test piece and after cleaning it with emery paper and panel wipe I sprayed a base coat of etch primer and left that to dry overnight.
    Then I sprayed the first coat of chrome and was relieved to see no reaction. A second coat was sprayed half an hour later and also left to dry and the resulting chrome finish looked excellent. It was left to harden over night.

    I tried a coat of Halfords acrylic gloss lacquer and although there was no adverse reaction the lacquer actually dulled the bright chrome making it just look like silver paint. As an experiment I sprayed over the lacquer with another coat of chrome and the bright finish was restored with no adverse effects.

    My conclusions are that this chrome paint works as well as I had hoped and I can now proceed to spray the handrails with some confidence.

    Iโ€™m not certain how long the chrome finish will remain bright and shiny, only time will tell.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    15
    31
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    10 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Rob,
    It is really good to see this type of test and results posted on this site.
    It will help a lot of us model makers.

    Thank's for this information.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    10 days ago by mturpin013 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hi Rob, looks like a good finish, I've not tried that brand, however I've tried a few others and can confirm they do dull when over sprayed with lacquer. but I've found that they aren't as durable as the makers claim, I hope yours prove different.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    10 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Many thanks Rob, highly informative๐Ÿ‘
    I have a two part chrome paint set which includes a clear lacquer.
    Much like tow part auto paints.
    Intended for the buggy racers for spraying their plastic shells.
    I intend to try it on a variety of substrates, including brass and ally tubes.
    I also suspect that a final polish with very fine auto paint cutting polish (so called Hologram polish) may enhance the gleam?

    For my tube experiments I will first burnish the metal using brass brushes in a mini drill and then the very fine nail boards. As I used when refurbishing my Taycol Target and Colin's Supermarine motor, commutators and shafts etc.
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    10 days ago by Colin H ( Commodore)
    Flag
    Thanks Rob, that's a good test and the outcome is good.
    I have used the same paint on my car wheels and it lasted as long as the tyres 18000 miles without flaking and stayed quite bright.
    The retailer who sold it to me told me not to lacquer it, seems he was right.
    Cheers Colin.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    6
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    10 days ago by stevedownunder ( Warrant Officer)
    Flag
    Hi Rob,
    Great work, taking the time to experiment is a great thing and avoids disappointment.
    I would agree I have never had good results putting clear over metallic finishes.
    Cheers,
    Stephen.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    10 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Thanks everyone for your own experiences with chrome paint.
    It's interesting to note that for some it lasted well but for others it was not.
    I think if it loses its gleam after a while (a few years at least) and reverts to a silver finish I doubt I'll be too upset as long as it doesn't crack and peel off.๐Ÿคž๐Ÿ˜€
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    10 days ago by marky ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hi Rob , when I used to work ?at the college we used to silver plate small copper and brass components using Nushine plating solution you just applied the solution with cotton wool ,its quite hard wearing and if you scratch it just reapply over the scratch .
    Cheers Marky
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    10 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Marky
    "Nushine plating solution "
    Sounds like Alchemy!๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    Whereja get that stuff?
    Can you guys turn my lead shot into gold please๐Ÿค‘๐Ÿค‘๐Ÿค‘!?๐Ÿ˜‹๐Ÿ˜‹๐Ÿ˜‹
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    10 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Marky.
    Thanks for the info.๐Ÿ‘
    I just googled Nushine and it looks like its really made for restoring silver plate. In my experience silver tarnishes really quickly so it could be quite hard work to maintain a shine.โ˜น๏ธ
    Rob.
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nushine-Silver-Plating-Solution-100ml/dp/B00D5TCYT8
    ๐Ÿ”—
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    9 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Rob, glad to see you found the right paint. I found exactly the same thing when I tried spraying a clear enamel over the chrome a few years ago, -the chrome ended up like silver. I did try painting the clear immediately over the chrome which was slightly better, (looked a bit like stainless) but ended up just using the chrome. This epoxy enamel one I've used lasts quite well as long as you don't touch it with your fingers, as the sweat in your fingers seems to react with the aluminium particles on the surface. Easy enough to touch up with a fine haired brush though.

    Looks great when you first apply it, and if you need to hold it, use a soft cloth to prevent oxidising the surface. I am going to try and find the Acrylic version of the Duplicolor sometime, as it should be more durable than the enamel.

    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    9 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    "I just googled Nushine and it looks like its really made for restoring silver plate."
    Aw shucks, another dream bubble popped!๐Ÿค”๐Ÿ˜ญ๐Ÿ˜ญโ˜น๏ธ
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    9 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi JB.
    Thanks for the advice about finger marks etc. I'll be very careful to avoid handling it too much.
    I'm not certain about the chemistry of the chrome paint I'm using, there's no reference on the can to epoxy, enamel or acrylic. What I do know is that it sits happily over the etch primer which I believe is acrylic and is fine with an acrylic lacquer over it (other than dulling the finish!)
    Ordinarily enamels will react with acrylics so I suspect this chrome paint is an acrylic formulation ?
    You say that your Duplicolor chrome paint is 'epoxy enamel' which would imply that it's a 'two pack' spray that has a built-in catalyst reservoir that needs to be activated and mixed before use and once mixed has a finite window for application...is that the case with the Duplicolor product?
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    9 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Doug.
    It would seem that 'Nushine' 'aint what you're looking for old chum'
    Talking of restoration though........I've heard good things about 'NackerLacquer.....Adds Lustre to your Cluster' ๐Ÿ˜œ
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    5
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    9 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    "'two pack' spray that has a built-in catalyst reservoir that needs to be activated and mixed before use"
    Hi Rob,
    The stuff I've got is two-pack. Can't recall anything about mixing before use.
    How? They are both sprays! The second spray must be an activator.
    I'll check the 'destructions' this evening - now it's EATIN' TIME!!๐Ÿ˜‹
    C Us later, ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    9 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Captain)
    Flag
    Thanks for the info Rob. I will give this a go on my next project.
    Peter.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    9 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Or is NackerLacquer something they use in a Knackers Yard? ๐Ÿ’ฅ๐Ÿ˜ฎ๐Ÿ˜ญ
    Enough of this lower decks scuttlebutt Admiral๐Ÿ˜‰
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    9 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Doug,
    I had a tin of knackered lacquer.
    When i opened the lid and looked in and found it was a solid block LOL!!

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    9 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Sorry Fleet.๐Ÿ˜‰
    Couldn't resist...๐Ÿคฃ
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    9 days ago by Newby7 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Thanks for the write up.I have looked for a chrome finish product.
    Rick
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    9 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Command Permission approved Admirals Martin and Rob.
    Bear in mind though the Young's Modulus of the tolerance of our revered Creator and First Sea Lord!๐Ÿ˜
    Be thankful that your Fleet Commander is sitting here fully replenished and with an excellent glass of Doppio Passo Primitivo Rosato.๐Ÿ˜‹ Well, the glass is excellent, the wine ain't so bad either๐Ÿ˜Š
    Carry on gentlemen.๐Ÿ™„
    FLEET//๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    9 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Duly noted Fleet.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    9 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Very good Admiral Rob,
    Carry On Cruising - Regardless!๐Ÿ˜‰
    FLEET OUT//๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ’ค๐Ÿ’ค๐Ÿ’ค
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    9 days ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hi Rob, The best chrome finish I have used, came from a company called ALCLAD paints, they do various chrome's and stainless steel etc, you just have to use their black primer, and then overspray with your chosen finish, I think it is enamel base, but the chrome stays, and you can touch it when dry and leaves no marks.๐Ÿ˜Š

    Cheers, Pete

    btw, Not available in rattle cans, you have to spray it yourself.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    9 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    That rings a bell Pete, thanks for the reminder๐Ÿ‘
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    8 days ago by hmsnostalgia ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    Flag
    This is EXACTLY the sort of info that fellow modelers need, especially if your not the poor sod whose done the test, one just reaps the reward !! ๐Ÿคฃ ๐Ÿ˜œ ๐Ÿ˜„
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    8 days ago by hmsnostalgia ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    Flag
    Pardon !!! wot sauce R U on ??? ๐Ÿ˜œ
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    8 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Re Thanks for the advice about finger marks etc. I'll be very careful to avoid handling it too much.

    Hi Rob, the can is just an ordinary spray can and the contents are probably pre mixed. They probably call it an epoxy enamel to make it sound better, - just smells like normal spray enamel to me. I have found that it is not solvent (turps) proof until it's dried for weeks, but left to its' own devices seems to last quite well. I previously mentioned that I used it to re-coat my cars chrome plastic towball covers, and it lasted pretty well, considering I'm near a beach with a salt atmosphere, up to 30deg C in summer and in direct sun a lot of the time.

    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    8 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    "Pardon !!! wot sauce R U on ??? ๐Ÿ˜œ "
    Wot sauce is Who on HMS?
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    8 days ago by hmsnostalgia ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    Flag
    Sorry, I thought I'd tied my comment into Rear Admiral Robbobs response about 'Nacker lacquer'!! ๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    8 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    No sweat HMS,
    One can be forgiven for ALMOST anything in this happy, friendly nuthouse!๐Ÿคฃ
    Welcome to the Nut Bunch๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Chrome Paint Test.
    2 days ago by Ianh ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    If it is a two pack like Rustoleum produce it has a very limited shelf life if in a rattle can.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ“ The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    With the cabin handrails in place I can now make the โ€˜Pulpitโ€™ which is an area at the bow of the boat enclosed by a handrail and safety rail.
    Iโ€™m not certain of the actual use of this but I assume itโ€™s a safe haven for observation or forward deck activity by a crew member and the height of the โ€˜pulpitโ€™ is dictated by the continuation of a line from the cabin handrail and safety rail.

    I started by sketching out the size and shape of the pulpit on some graph paper and then transferring the dimensions to a piece of scrap of ply with 2mm holes drilled for all of the uprights to form a jig. Some round styrene rod was used as formers for the bending of the corners.

    Some 2mm brass rod was annealed and formed into one half of the top handrail and a rear upright and then a mirror image piece made as the other half making sure that I inserted some of my โ€˜Teeโ€™ pieces in the correct places as the bending progressed.
    The remaining uprights were cut to length and placed on the jig to join to the handrail tee pieces.
    All the uprights were made 'over length' so that I could trim them once the correct height of the pulpit was set. The rod ends were not threaded as I have no access to the underside to retain them with nuts so they'll eventually be epoxied in place.

    There are two bracing uprights that meet the frame at an angle and I made some joining pieces from some 3mm tube cut and joined at an acute angle and silver soldered together.

    The safety rail is a piece if 3mm x 1.5mm brass bar annealed and bent around some slightly larger corner formers and temporarily fixed to the framework with some tinned copper wire through 1mm holes drilled through the safety rail.

    This complete framework was then soft soldered together with the exception of the safety rail which will be soft soldered in place after the rope handgrip has been wound around the handrail.
    The forward deck of the boat was then drilled using the assembly jig holes as a template and the pulpit framework temporarily pushed in place with a 2mm brass washer at the base of each of all the uprights.
    The height of the pulpit was then adjusted to follow the visual line from the cabin handrails and the brass washers soldered in place using my foil barrier method to prevent to prevent the heat from the soldering iron affecting the deck paint finish.
    Soldering these 'in situ' ensures that all the washers sit flush with the deck and conform to the deck curvature.

    The etch primer and chrome paint I ordered has arrived today and if the โ€˜paint testโ€™ proves successful Iโ€™ll be able to paint the pulpit ๐Ÿคž๐Ÿ˜€
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    11
    20
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Another Master Class Rob๐Ÿ‘
    And not a sandwich box in sight๐Ÿ˜‰
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Thanks Doug ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ‘
    "And not a sandwich box in sight".....you've lost me there ๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by Nerys ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Quite right Rob, the pulpit is there to make it safe on a narrowing part of the deck for someone to drop anchor, handle mooring ropes etc On a sailing boat, of course, it is even more essential for crew members handling sails etc, possibly in rough seas. Can never understand why they weren't seen on small boats until about the 1960s. The danger has always been there.

    Cheers, Nerys
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    He he!๐Ÿ˜
    Remember Sy's Atlantic 21 Rob; fully equipped with ', bread bins / sandwich boxes and a dustbin / tea urn'?๐Ÿ˜
    From you I now know how to do a 'proper job' of the pulpit for my Sea Scout and from JB the grab rails. His grab rail method I can also use for the foot rails on the bow of my PTB๐Ÿ‘
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Nerys.
    As much as I suspected then.
    I found references to them on yachts as a place to fish from but on a workboat like this there's clearly a more serious use.
    Glad to hear you've got your 'Mo-Jo' back ๐Ÿ‘
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Doug.
    Ah-Ha....CLICK....penny dropped !!!
    ๐Ÿ˜‚
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by Scratchbuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    Flag
    Superb workmanship.
    Most impressive.
    Regards Bill
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by mturpin013 ( Captain)
    Flag
    I love a jig, you can't beat a good jig.
    They make things so much easier in the long run, "right first time" was our company slogan (1970s) I was a jig and tool designer/toolroom engineer back then that's why I like a good jig.
    The proof is in your fantastic railings.
    PS you nearly caught me out with you first picture, I thought you'd had the maiden voyage.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by Skydive130 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Lovely bit of brass work Rob, should look superb painted ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Mike.
    My first pic is just to illustrate what I'm attempting to describe in my text.
    The giveaway is that my deck is Emerald green๐Ÿ˜
    I'm still a good bit away from a maiden voyage even without the Covid-19 'Lurgi' restrictions and the deteriorating weather โ˜น๏ธ
    More reason to spend a bit more effort in the detailing I suppose (he said...trying to justify the lack of speedy progress) ๐Ÿ˜œ
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Sy.
    As a novice 'metal abuser' I'm quite happy with what I've managed so far.
    If the chrome paint tests prove successful, and I think they will, the railings should look quite realistic, especially with the rope handgrip bindings ๐Ÿคž
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Rob,
    Fantastic workmanship as usual.
    The hand rails are awesome.
    I can't wait to see them chromed up.

    Again well done.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    "you can't beat a good jig."
    You'd have got on well with my Granny Mike๐Ÿ‘
    That's exactly what she would say when lively music came on the radio and she started jigging around the kitchen๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
    Flag
    Excellent work Rob yet again,๐Ÿ‘ your soldering is marvelous, can I enquire as to the iron/flux and solder you use, you seem to have the perfect match, as well as the silver soldering.๐Ÿ˜Š

    Cheers, Pete
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Pete.
    The heavy duty soldering iron I use is a 100w jobbie that I bought from Maplins a few years back before they folded. I have several grades of rosin cored solder and for these railings I use a very thin 60/40 type but always with an extra dab of some flux that I normally use for plumbing joints. The very hot iron allows me to use fast localised heat to make a strong, well flowed joint almost instantly.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
    Flag
    Many thanks for that useful info Rob.๐Ÿ‘

    Cheers, Pete
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by Ygagnon ( Master Seaman)
    Flag
    Fantastic work.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    11 days ago by Ianh ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    Although I have a 100w Soldering Iron I use a Weller Soldering Gun as it is instant heat much easier to work with.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    10 days ago by Newby7 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Pulpit that's how much I don't know about boats and boating.Thanks Nerys for the update on a pulpit.
    Rick
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Forward Deck Pulpit.
    10 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Captain)
    Flag
    Nice job Rob. That bending jig is s great idea. The finished item looks perfect. Another good reference source for the future.๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ‘
    Peter.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ The Hand Rails Part 1
    16 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    I've been putting off making handrails for some time but ....time to get MOTIVATED ๐Ÿ˜€.

    I started experimenting with making the hand rails some time ago when considering what detailing was practical to add to the new version of the cabin.
    The handrails and the safety line attachment rail are an essential and prominent safety feature on these Pilot Boats and although it concerned me that they could be a bit tricky to make for a novice metal worker like me they are definitely worth the effort of detailing properly.

    Now Iโ€™ve not made railings before but surely all it needs is some brass rod and a bit of soldering so how hard can it be? ๐Ÿค”

    After examining the reference โ€˜photos Iโ€™ve collected it became clear that the handrails will need to be carefully positioned and fixed to the cabin correctly to get the correct โ€˜runโ€™ and alignment so a means of adjusting the height and angles of all of the uprights would be necessary, so clearly not so straightforward as I had first thought.โ˜น๏ธ

    My early experiments involved making some brass tube โ€˜Teeโ€™ pieces so that I could join the handrails to the uprights and thus allow me to make all of the required pieces and assemble them on the cabin โ€˜dryโ€™ so to speak.

    This I decided would be the best way to make the railings as I would be able to make adjustments, and correct mistakes, very easily. I also made some plain uprights using 2mm rod and 3mm tube.

    The technique for making the โ€˜tee piecesโ€™ involved filing the end of a tube with a 3mm round needle file to create a concave end that could be set down on another piece of 3mm tube at 90 degrees and silver soldering the two together. The piece was then cut from the end of the tube and the process repeated until I had sufficient for all the tee joints to be made. All of these pieces were dunked in a โ€˜picklingโ€™ solution to remove the flux residue and then they were all filed down to be equal in height and width.

    The plain uprights were made in a similar way by drilling a hole into one wall of the 3mm tube then a 2mm rod was slightly chamfered on a grinder so that it sat neatly on the hole in the tube and then silver soldered.

    I chose to silver solder all of these bits so that when assembling the rails I could soft solder all the other joints together without worrying that the tee pieces would be affected by the heat.

    After very carefully measuring and marking the fixing points for the handrails I used a 2mm bit in a pin vice to drill horizontal holes in the cabin sides and then I made the supporting uprights for the rails from short pieces of brass rod, annealed and bent to approximately the correct angle. With the uprights in place I was then able to put the tee pieces on the uprights and adjust the height of each by filing so that the handrail could be passed through them and made to follow the correct line and angles. Just to complicate matters the handrails rise in a curvature and slightly inwards towards the bow.๐Ÿ˜ 

    The engine room roof was then drilled using the handrail position to get the correct angle for the holes. After dry fitting all the pieces and checking all the parts were properly aligned, the handrail, tee pieces and uprights were soft soldered together.

    After setting the correct height and angles of the engine room roof uprights I used some 3mm diameter brass washers to make the base of all of the uprights but I had to solder all of them โ€˜in-placeโ€™ to ensure that they all sat flush with the roof.
    The danger here was that the heat of the soldering would damage the paint and lacquer finish so after a quick experiment on a test piece I found that some aluminium foil folded to 18 layers was sufficient to protect the paint from the short but instant heat from the 100w iron to solder the washers.
    The washers for the cabin side supports were done on a jig as the position and angles were all the same.
    I also tapped a 2mm thread on the end of all the upright pieces so that they can be secured to the cabin and superstructure with brass nuts should I ever need to remove any to make repairs or modifications.

    The handrails are one continuous length down from the rear cabin roof, along the length of the whole cabin to the front which I donโ€™t think I could have achieved without jointing the brass rod as I have and overall I'm quite pleased with the way they have turned out (so far) !!

    Next I will need to make and fit the safety line rails, paint everything with a chrome finish and then fit the rope binding 'hand-grip' along the length of the handrails. The binding can be seen on the real boats in the last โ€˜photo.

    The forward โ€˜pulpitโ€™ also needs to be made up as well as some stern guard rails.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    16
    19
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    16 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Rob,

    Thank's for the tip.

    The aluminium foil tip is something i would never of thought of.
    I probably would of tried doing that bit off of the model or using a few layers if masking tape.

    The time you have spent is well worth it,

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    16 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Martin.
    The reason for using foil was because it dissipates heat very quickly and acts as a heat shield and also I needed the 'heat shield' to be as thin as possible to maintain the correct alignment of the rails.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    5
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    16 days ago by Newby7 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Your first time making rails has turned out very well.You deserve to be pleased as they look good on the boat.The write up I also thought was well done.
    Rick
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    16 days ago by marky ( Captain)
    Flag
    Lovely job, ๐Ÿ‘a lot of patience .
    Cheers Marky
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    16 days ago by mturpin013 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Nice work Rob, as I've said before there's great deal of pleasure in working on the small details and they make such a difference to how the final model looks.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    16 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Thanks Mike.
    There's still a lot more to do on the hand rails and it's very time consuming for a slowcoach like me. Don't want to rush the final detailing 'cos that's when I'll make a daft mistake and ruin something ๐Ÿ˜ญ
    But so far...so good ๐Ÿ˜Š
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    16 days ago by Skydive130 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Greetings from sunny Cyprus Rob and itโ€™s 0200hrs in the morning here ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚

    Those railings have come out pretty sweet and as you say, a key feature that youโ€™ve pulled off brilliantly. One question if I may, whatโ€™s the difference between soft and silver soldering?

    Kind regards Sy
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    16 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Kalimera Sy.
    Good to hear your travel plans worked out OK ๐Ÿ‘Œ.

    Silver soldering or 'hard' soldering is more like brazing and used a much higher melting point alloy of silver and other metals and you have to use a gas torch to do it and needs a very aggressive borax flux too whereas soft soldering is for electrical and electronic work and used a lead/tin alloy and you use a regular flux and a soldering iron.

    Hard soldered joints are not affected by the heat from the soft soldering process so the bits don't fall apart as you solder them together.
    I've only recently mastered the silver soldering process and it's proved very useful in this instance.

    Enjoy the sun in Cyprus.
    Yia Mas ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿบ
    Rob.

    EDIT.
    I just remembered that one of my model club members wrote a very good article all about soldering...it may be very useful to you.
    https://stalbansmes.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/What-solder.pdf
    ๐Ÿ”—
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    5
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    15 days ago by Ianh ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    Hi Robbob,
    You are quite right when you say silver solder needs a blowtorch and its got to be a good one. Silver Solder melts at about 700 to 800 Deg C and use Easyflo for the flux it's the best there is and with the price of silver solder today you don't want any waste. When I built model loco boilers I selected a range of temperatures to make working easier as the temperature it solders at is lower than the re-melt temperature ( Two Sievert Torches and 20lb Cylinders freezing, also I nice suntan to go with. Those were the days where I could by Cadmium bearing solders so the flow was easy. Using silver solder is not for the faint hearted but various solders do now come in a range of temperatures.
    One must remember to pickle all joints I used to use nitric acid but changed to Citric Acid takes a bit longer but more friendly to you.
    All the best
    Ian
    I have put a link in to a UK based company that have the hobbyist in mind.
    https://www.cupalloys.co.uk/home/
    ๐Ÿ”—
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    5
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    15 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Ian.
    For most things I find a small 'cooks' gas torch adequate but for larger bits and for annealing I use a larger butane blowtorch from my plumbing tools collection.
    I was going to use citric acid for pickling but a fellow club member let me have a large jar of proper acid solution that he uses for his loco engine and boiler construction and that works very quickly and efficiently on the brass I'm working with.
    He warned me not to put anything ferrous in the solution as that would spoil it somehow?

    Thanks for the link to Cupalloys, I remember attending a talk they gave at the Bristol model show (now defunct โ˜น๏ธ!) a couple of years ago.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    6
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    15 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    "proper acid solution"
    Wossat? What's 'proper' Rob? I have some hydrochloric acid!!
    Why pickling anyway? Only done that with onions up to now!๐Ÿ˜‹๐Ÿ˜‹ Great with cheddar!
    I have one of those little 'Gourmet' gas torches, useful for all sorts of stuff where my 50W iron strikes it's sails; oiler pipes on prop shaft tubes, earth connections on motor cans and shaft tubes, brass brackets for this n that, etc. (Not just the Crรฉmรฉ brรปlรฉes๐Ÿ˜‰๐Ÿ˜‹)
    Also have a gas brazing/welding set, left over from my DIY central heating installation and car restoration days.
    (If I crawled under a car these days I'd probably need the paramedics or fire brigade to get me out again!๐Ÿค”) That set is a bit overkill for model making though.
    When faced with a similar problem as yours some years ago, ca 2m of masts and railings for my 1:72 destroyer, I used zillions of crockclips and lumps of copper as heatsinks!
    Must get into this silver soldering lark, now to look for materials sources over here.
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    PS Anyone wanna buy an oxy-acetylene brazing set!?๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    15 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Doug.
    I suppose by 'proper' acid I mean corrosive stuff that you wouldn't want to drink ๐Ÿ˜ unlike citric acid which you possibly would ๐Ÿ˜‹.
    I'd rather have a G&T any day ๐Ÿ˜‰.
    The stuff I've been given is clear but with a blue tinge to it which could be dissolved copper in the solution from previous use but I'm not certain if it's hydrochloric, sulphuric, nitric or whatever. I'll make a point of asking clubmate Malcolm next time we have one of our 'Zoom' club meetings.
    As for the 'pickling' context....I'll have to ask about that too !

    Keep up the good work Doug...your geniality and humour do us all a power of good.
    I'm off to get me a G&T.
    Cheers. ๐Ÿธ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ‘
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    5
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    15 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Captain)
    Flag
    Great job Rob. The handrails look really good. The chrome paint will really make them stand out.
    Peter.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    15 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Thanks Peter.
    The paint is due to arrive tomorrow (hopefully) and I'll do some tests on some scrap first!.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    15 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Great job on the rails Rob, and a neat idea using the silver solder for the key joints to avoid melting when close soldering the rails. I've been meaning to buy a butane set for a while now and probably could have used it when doing my ladder. Still have a stash of silver solder rods somewhere from my welding days. Must hunt them out and make use of them. Agree with Ianh re Easyflo flux, great stuff.
    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    15 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Thanks for the feedback Rob ๐Ÿ‘
    Be VERY interested to hear what an acid you've got there!
    " blue tinge" ?? Curacao ? ๐Ÿ˜
    During my varied career I've used / been faced with a lot of 'orrible substances, some of which e.g. MEK (gave me a headache as soon as I entered the room๐Ÿค•) have since been banned! Gott sei dank as my German 'Kumpels' would say๐Ÿ˜‰
    BTW: both hydrochloric and sulphuric acid in solution (or pure) also look like water!!!!!

    Ref G&T; like the taste but have trouble getting the juniper pong passed my nose!๐Ÿ™Š
    Vodka & T OK. But now I'm off for a Horses Neck or maybe a Cuba Libre!?
    Slร inte mhath / Salud ๐Ÿ˜‰
    Thanks all for the flux tips people๐Ÿ‘ all I got now is some ancient plumbers flux, a kind of white sludge, I brought with me from UK some 36 years ago! Seems to eat most things!๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    14 days ago by Ianh ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    Hi Rob
    The old norm was to use Nitric (Battery) acid Solution I used to have a 40 Gallon drum of the stuff! Dropping a hot loco boiler into it was somewhat scary.
    After a while and good scouring the copper came out salmon pink!
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    13 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    I've now established the the 'pickling solution' I'm using is a 10% solution of sulphuric acid, the blue tinge I'm told is copper sulphate from my clubmates previous use of the solution with copper.
    I keep the glass jar of solution inside a separate plastic container, seen in the 'photo, as a safety precaution ๐Ÿ˜‡.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Hand Rails Part 1
    13 days ago by Ianh ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    Hi Robbob
    Dead right Copper Sulphate When I disposed of my 40 Gallon Drum I had done 4 Boilers the
    mound of sludge at the bottom was a blue green colour and has a similar colour as the copper ore as mined!
    A mine I worked on in the DRC has a blue green mountain of raw copper. The stuff is 90% copper and is base refined on the mine and sent to South Africa for final refining.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ The Searchlights.
    28 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    The two roof mounted searchlights form part of the lighting system and I although I had considered buying some ready-made ones the effort involved in converting them to LED operation I didnโ€™t think was worthwhile.

    After some success scratch-building some other detailing in styrene I chose to make my own ๐Ÿ˜Š.

    The basic construction is some 10mm diameter styrene tube capped with some 3mm sheet which I โ€˜turnedโ€™ in a drill chuck to produce the domed end of the searchlight.
    I had to temporarily fit a short piece of 8mm styrene rod to the inside first to act as a mandrel. I also put a short styrene strip on the top of the light and blended this into the domed rear.

    The support for the searchlight was made from various diameters of styrene tube and had to incorporate a bevelled base so that the light could be fitted into the sloping roof to be vertical.
    I mounted a 3mm โ€˜flat topโ€™ white LED onto an 8mm disc, snipped the leads as short as possible and soldered the wires to them. The back of this disc was then painted black along with the back portion of the light fitting interior. After testing the LED I fed the wires through the mounting tube and glued the LED disc into the fitting.
    I masked off the LED with a short length of styrene tube and then sprayed the searchlight with a couple of coats of silver paint and one gloss lacquer to try to simulate a chrome finish.
    Just for a little more realism and optical efficiency I found some silver metallised polyester film from some packaging material and made an 8mm diameter โ€˜reflectorโ€™ and used a hole punch to make a 3mm hole to fit around the LED and glued it in place with some canopy glue.

    The front lens of the searchlight is actually an 8mm acrylic โ€˜windowโ€™ from a brass porthole fitting that I had left over from another project and these were glued into the front with canopy glue too.

    The sloping cabin roof was carefully drilled with a vertical hole and the lights tried for fit and I have arranged the bevelled bases so that the two searchlights are aimed slightly to port and starboard rather than both dead ahead. The wires will routed down from the roof interior along with all the others and terminate on the lighting distribution board that I described earlier.

    The finished searchlights donโ€™t produce a narrow focussed beam but they are very bright ๐Ÿ˜Ž and they do look quite like searchlights. Along with all the other fittings this will be added to the cabin in a final assembly stage.๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    13
    10
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Searchlights.
    28 days ago by Newby7 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Well done on the search lights.
    Rick
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Searchlights.
    28 days ago by Skydive130 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Just the ticket Rob and a damn sight cheaper than commercial ones. Will do the same in the future๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Searchlights.
    28 days ago by mturpin013 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hey Rob, you've really got the "styrene bug" I'm not sure if its as bad as the "corona bug" but be careful to stay in your bubble.
    Joking apart another triumph, I'll have to have a go.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Searchlights.
    28 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Sy & Mike.
    I did stock up on styrene sheet, tube and rods a while ago and having a good selection means making stuff like this quite easy.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Searchlights.
    28 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    You have done a superb job on the searchlights Rob.

    The "styrene bug" that mturpin013 mentioned bit me a long time ago as you could probably tell LOL!!

    Keep up the excellent work.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Searchlights.
    27 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Nice work Rob, much more satisfying to make your own, and you're not trying to modify something bought that doesn't quite match the scale.
    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Searchlights.
    27 days ago by Julio ( Leading Seaman)
    Flag
    Awesome!!
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Searchlights.
    26 days ago by Joe727 ( Commander)
    Flag
    Nicely done!
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Searchlights.
    26 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Thank you Julio and Joe ๐Ÿ˜Š
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Searchlights.
    26 days ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi JB.
    The ready made searchlights are not particularly expensive but they do have a 'chromed' finish which is about the only real advantage but I'd still have to take them apart to replace the filament lamps with LED's
    I've yet to try some of the 'chrome effect' paint that I think Tamiya make but the silver I use looks fine.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ“ The Roof Antennas and Navigation Lights.
    1 month ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Along with the radar unit the cabin roof is adorned with a number of other antennas which are presumably for communications, global positioning or other such purposes.

    I chose to make the three vertical antennas removable in the same way as the antenna on top of the mast by the use of some very small magnets.

    The antennas are made from some styrene rod and short pieces of tube at the base that has the 2mm neodymium magnet inside. The matching antenna base is made from various sizes of styrene tube to produce a socket with a mounting flange which houses the other magnet.

    All three antennas have the magnets in the same polarisation so can be fitted into any socket while the antenna on top of the mast, which is a different length, has an opposite polarisation so it canโ€™t be fitted to the roof. These antennas were primed and painted with white gloss with the bases all in silver.

    There are a pair of very short antennas on the back of the roof which, I think, are for GPS functions and these were also made from various pieces of styrene rod and tube with the ends โ€˜turnedโ€™ in my makeshift drill chuck โ€˜latheโ€™. These are also painted white and silver.

    The cabin roof navigation lights are simply some 7mm styrene tubing capped at one end and โ€˜turnedโ€™ in a drill chuck to apply a bevel and a slot filed into it for a 5mm LED that has had the top filed flat and the body โ€˜frostedโ€™ with abrasive paper. The light fitting was painted matt black before the LED was epoxied inside and the wires soldered and insulated. The recesses in the cabin roof were drilled to accept the wires and then painted satin black so that the lights can be simply epoxied in place during final assembly of the cabin. ๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    14
    8
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Roof Antennas and Navigation Lights.
    1 month ago by Skydive130 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Loving the way youโ€™ve made the nav lights Rob, simple, effective and a meathod I will use in the future if I may๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Roof Antennas and Navigation Lights.
    1 month ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Sy.
    The scratchbuilding of all these bits in styrene are very much inspired by what you are already able to produce as we've all seen in your 'Orca' boat and others models since.
    I don't think there's much I can teach you that you haven't already done ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Roof Antennas and Navigation Lights.
    1 month ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
    Flag
    Some very clever ideas Rob, like the use of magnets for deploying the aerials, and a neat way of making nav lights and the frosting of the LED's, magic๐Ÿ‘

    Cheers, Pete
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Roof Antennas and Navigation Lights.
    1 month ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Very nice work work as usual Rob.
    I bet you are enjoying making all of the detail work.
    What resisters did you fit to your LED's ?

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Roof Antennas and Navigation Lights.
    1 month ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Martin.
    Yes, I'm an quite enjoying adding these details to the Pilot Boat, fortunately there's enough 'photos of the real boats to use as a reference for most of the fittings. The hardest part is getting the scale as accurate as possible without many things to accurately scale to.

    The LED's you see in the photo have been fitted with temporary resistors for testing. The ones you see are 120R for the green and 180R for the red and I think I used those same values on my distribution board.
    I'm using a 6v supply for all the lighting but the resistor values would be different depending on the supply voltage, LED voltage drop and current. I used to calculate this the hard way using the normal formulae but there's online calculators that do it instantly and even confirm the resistor colour codes too.
    Rob.
    http://ledcalc.com/
    ๐Ÿ”—
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Roof Antennas and Navigation Lights.
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Nice work Rob, Nav lights are great.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Roof Antennas and Navigation Lights.
    1 month ago by Newby7 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Well done on the navigation lights.
    Rick
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Roof Antennas and Navigation Lights.
    28 days ago by CB90 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    Flag
    Hi robbob
    Good idea for making working Navigation lights and other items.
    Thanks for sharing
    Roy
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ“ The Lighting Circuits.
    1 month ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Had I not decided to abandon building the superstructure supplied with the SLEC kit and build my own version I would have probably only fitted just the regular port and starboard navigation lights with LEDโ€™s or perhaps not even bothered at all and made them as painted dummy lights.

    However the new superstructure, modelled on the Southampton Pilots Boats fleet, is an ideal candidate for a far more adventurous lighting arrangement. One feature of which is the deck level floodlights which I described the โ€˜making ofโ€™ in an earlier blog update.
    Then there are the mast lights and the roof nav lights and two roof mounted searchlights. A good feature is to have all of these lights remotely switched and that means using some R/C controlled switches and a distribution board to accommodate the switching circuits and the current limiting resistors.
    I did this previously on my RAF Crash Rescue Tender project and the circuit design is very simple and was โ€˜hand drawnโ€™ but for this Pilot Boat I decided to use some freely available CAD software specifically developed for prototyping circuits using industry standard โ€˜Veroboardโ€™.

    VeeCad is one of those programmes that are very intuitive to use and after installing it on my PC I was able to draw up the circuits required complete with component designations and values. I was also able to test and verify the circuit design within the software too.

    When I was happy with the design I printed out the Veroboard layout and working from the drawing very quickly built the circuit board with all the wire links, track breaks, resistors and connectors.
    The switch panel was made from 3mm Plasticard in the same fashion as the main power and fuse panel and incorporates a fuse holder, power switch and a multi-pin โ€˜Dโ€™ connector for the 10 way ribbon cable connection to the distribution board. The fuse will only need to be no more than 250mA at most and is incorporated more as a convenient connection for the +ve supply to the three RC switches.

    The Turnigy switches for the three lighting circuits are located in the hull of the model and are connected to the receiver and only the switched +ve outputs of the switches connect through the ribbon cable to the distribution board so only 6 connections through the ribbon are actually needed although the three lighting circuits use some doubled up unused cores in the ribbon just to improve the current capability.
    There is a 7th connection which joins the lighting circuit โ€“ve battery supply to the receiver โ€“ve battery supply for the electronic switches to work properly.
    At the time of writing Iโ€™m still trying to obtain the third RC switch but I have included the wiring for this in the loom.

    The ribbon cable also carries the supply from the radar controller PCB to the radar motor in the cabin roof and this breaks out from the distribution board on a separate connector.

    The cable is anchored to the circuit board using a brass link on a redundant circuit strip and so doesnโ€™t rely on the soldered connections of the ribbon for security and it's long enough for the cabin to be detached from the hull and laid alongside without needing to be unplugged.

    All of the lighting circuits are supplied from a separate 6V NiMh battery pack with XT60 connectors although in the photos Iโ€™m using some regular dry cells for testing while I await the required battery pack to arrive on the slow boat from China!โ˜น๏ธ

    I also need to replace the 6ch Turnigy i6 receiver with a Turnigy 10 channel one so that I am able to assign the four transmitter switches to aux channels for the three lighting circuits and the radar circuit too.

    The distribution board was fixed into the roof of the cabin using cable tie bases as mounting points and the board secured in place with long cable ties. The board was positioned to allow easy access to the edge connectors to which all the wiring to the LEDโ€™s are connected.

    The installation of the lighting will be completed in the final assembly of the cabin.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    11
    14
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Lighting Circuits.
    1 month ago by Graham93 ( Commander)
    Flag
    Hi Rob,

    Very nicely engineered and described, as we have come to expect from you ๐Ÿ‘

    Just a thought, did you not consider using a multi-output RC switch rather than 3 separate ones? You could drive the three sets of lights off one 3 output switch and would only need one channel on the receiver - hopefully that would avoid the need for an RX upgrade to 10 channels.

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Lighting Circuits.
    1 month ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Graham.
    Praise indeed from yourself๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜‚.
    I'm not a great fan of multi switches and the sequential operation they require. I much prefer the 'one switch per function' approach even if it does necessitate additional hardware. Furthermore any combination of lighting can be selected instantly without having to step through a switching sequence.The extra cost and space required is not an issue either.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Lighting Circuits.
    1 month ago by Colin H ( Commodore)
    Flag
    Once again thanks for a superb description and pictures.
    Nothing short of breath taking, I wish I had your talent and steady hands.
    It proves that perfection is possible.
    Cheers Colin.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Lighting Circuits.
    1 month ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Excellent work again Rob,
    Another masterpiece.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Lighting Circuits.
    1 month ago by Missouri ( Leading Seaman)
    Flag
    Will this extra system have an effect on the current waterline/balance of the boat?
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Lighting Circuits.
    1 month ago by Ianh ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    Excellent work as usual. I can only aspire to this level!๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ˜Š
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Lighting Circuits.
    1 month ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Missouri.
    I'm hoping that this addition will have negligible effect on its own, the additional battery up front may dip the bow to some minute degree. I've yet to fit all of the brass handrails around the cabin and the front 'pulpit' and rear safety rails but the weight of those will be evenly distributed along the length of the hull. The heavy items in the hull are all positioned along the centre line (keel) so all of the weight is symmetrically distributed, and the centre of buoyancy is quite low too. Undoubtedly I'll need to ballast to the final trim and waterline.
    Robbob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Lighting Circuits.
    1 month ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Colin.
    Thanks for your kind words.
    It 'aint perfection ...or even close, but it's good enough to satisfy me ๐Ÿ˜
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Lighting Circuits.
    1 month ago by Newby7 ( Captain)
    Flag
    I envy your work with the lighting .I find it hard enough to work in navigation lights never mind all the others .Thank you for the write up.
    Rick
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Lighting Circuits.
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Excellent work Rob I don't think the extra weight will be an issue when you consider all the stuff I piled on my crash tender and it still floats (albeit only forwards)
    I think I might have a look at the VeeCad,
    Does it accept voice commands like -
    "build me an all singing and dancing illumination system for my boat" ๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Lighting Circuits.
    1 month ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Excellent work Rob!
    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Lighting Circuits.
    1 month ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Hi Mike.
    When I did a float test way back I loaded the the boat with everything that was to go in it and on it with a few extra heavy lumps for good measure so the waterline marks I made were possibly overcompensated but that's in my favour if I keep adding detail of any significant weight. This boat will spend more time out of the water than in it so if it doesn't sit bang on the waterline I'm not going to worry too much.

    "Does it accept voice commands like - build me an all sinning and dancing illumination system for my boat"

    That's more within Graham93's field of expertise ........๐Ÿคฃ

    As for 'All SINNING and dancing'..... over to you Doug ๐Ÿ˜‰
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Lighting Circuits.
    1 month ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi JB.
    Thanks for your kind words.
    Electrics and simple electronics I can do with reasonable confidence....painting is my bรชte noire โ˜น๏ธ
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Lighting Circuits.
    1 month ago by hmsnostalgia ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    Flag
    Well Robbob, I think everyone can agree that your painting results are still extremely good despite the challenge it gives, you rise to it and CRUSH it !! ๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ“ The Rubber Fenders.
    2 months ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    These pilot boats have to very fast and also need a strong hull to cope with heavy seas and in that respect are no different to a Lifeboat however they are also required to be able to โ€˜bumpโ€™ the sides of all vessels large and small and stay in physical contact while the pilots board and disembark on rope boarding ladders and the like.

    Without some serious protection to the hull a pilot boat would not be to be able to withstand the heavy impacts and forces involved and thus are a conspicuous feature of pilot boats.

    The rubber fenders on the Southampton pilot boats protect the hull all around at deck level and also on the hull sides and on the SLEC model they are represented by a 1.5mm plywood lattice that is just glued to the hull sides, however this can be considerably improved to look more realistic by the use of some readily available โ€˜Dโ€™ shaped neoprene rubber extrusions.

    When I was adding the gunwale strakes around the hull much earlier in the construction I opted to use a much wider Obeche strip than the ones supplied so that I could use some 10mm wide neoprene extrusions as fenders. The supplied plywood lattice strips were all just over 6mm wide and thus suitable for use with a 6mm wide neoprene extrusion.

    Bought as a model making accessory these extrusions are quite expensive however the very same extrusions are available from manufacturers who produce them for the automotive trade. Mine came from a company called โ€˜Seals Directโ€™ who produce these extrusions in a great variety of sizes and profiles and I ordered several metres of 10mm and 6mm โ€˜Dโ€™ profile for considerably less than the โ€˜model shopโ€™ equivalent.

    They also have an eBay shop but the prices there are much more than their own website prices, so I wonโ€™t post a link to that!๐Ÿ˜‡

    The next thing I had to consider was how to permanently fix them to the hull and for that I found some very thin double sided tape with very strong adhesive properties. ๐Ÿ˜This was conveniently available in 6mm and 9mm widths from an eBay seller so I bought two 5 metre rolls of each, more than sufficient for some experimentation before actual use.

    After conducting some tests I found that the double sided tape worked very well with the neoprene and importantly allowed a degree of adjustment by unsticking and reapplication to get the positioning absolutely right. The rubber can also be glued together with regular cyano and bonds really well so the joints between vertical and horizontal strips on the sides will be very strong.

    I began by applying the tape to the side lattice pieces and sticking the 6mm wide rubber on the horizontal lengths and then filling in with the vertical pieces. Where the strips meet I cut the ends of the vertical pieces at an angle to follow the contour of the horizontal strip to form a gapless join and then used a light smear of cyano to fix the parts together. The cyano was also used to seal the open cut ends of the rubber after I had rounded them to form a neat end.

    The 6mm rubber was also extended from the hull sides to the stern and I used cyano to fix these pieces as the 90 degree bend could potentially prove too much for double sided tape over time.
    The 10mm rubber fender was fixed around the deck but I had to abrade the surface first to remove a small ridge left after the masking and spraying of the deck finishes and this left a nice flat surface for the double sided tape. This fender goes around the deck in a single piece and is joined together with cyano at the stern.
    I fixed some extra 10mm rubber to the sides at the front over the yellow painted areas as can be seen on the real boats. I think these extra fenders are there as that part of the hull is probably the first point of contact between the pilot boat and a big ship like a super-tanker and so needs to be โ€˜beefed-upโ€˜ a bit.

    Finally I fitted some extra bits of wide rubber to the stern just to fill in an awkward looking gap just below the gunwale rubber.

    Thatโ€™s the hull completed, it just remains to finish off the cabin and engine room with all of the fixtures and fittings, including the windows and handrails which Iโ€™ve put off to almost last.
    https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=1#26
    ๐Ÿ”—
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    9
    8
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Rubber Fenders.
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    The rubber has made a big difference, it looks more realistic.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Rubber Fenders.
    2 months ago by neilmc ( Warrant Officer)
    Flag
    Thats another realistic and very detailed build going on there ๐Ÿ˜Š. I do like the link as this could be very useful for other applications in the future.
    Cheers Neil
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Rubber Fenders.
    2 months ago by Skydive130 ( Captain)
    Flag
    I put mine on with evostick contact adhesive which was very difficult to get neat, your method is far less messy Rob and a great tip for when I build anymore big lifeboats.

    Lifeboats, now with the demise of Model Slipway, I donโ€™t think there is anyone else left selling complete kits! There are โ€œhull onlyโ€œ kits of the Shannon and Tamar classes on eBay at silly money! Now desperate for a Shannon as today I saw the one at St Ives RNLI today!
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Rubber Fenders.
    2 months ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Sy.
    I did read in your blog that you used contact adhesive but there's no mercy with that stuff if you get it wrong which is why I chose a strong double sided tape. I'm very pleased with how it's turned out.

    Sounds like you're having a good time there looking at the lifeboats. A good opportunity to take some detailed photos if you plan to build one, assuming you can find a kit that is !
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Rubber Fenders.
    2 months ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
    Flag
    A very professional finnish there Rob,๐Ÿ‘ brilliant how you find all the right places on the net for us,๐Ÿ˜Š and the red tape brings back memories, in my craft shop, used to sell rolls and rolls of this stuff in every size, it''s the best double sided tape I have ever come across.

    Cheers, Pete
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Rubber Fenders.
    2 months ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Pete.
    Time will tell how effective the tape is and whether it can stand getting wet without loosing adhesion.
    If it does It's no big deal to peel off the rubber a bit at a time and stick it down with 'dots' of cyano like I've done on the stern.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Rubber Fenders.
    2 months ago by Rookysailor ( Captain)
    Flag
    When I used to sell the tape in my shop, it was mainly used for card and scrapbook making, so it didn't matter about being waterproof, but I have used it myself several times, to stick down things onto my boats, and as yet had no problems, so good luck with yours๐Ÿ˜Š
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Rubber Fenders.
    2 months ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    That reassuring to know Pete.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ“ The Motor and Electrics.
    2 months ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    I wasnโ€™t going to paint the battery box, motor mount and servo mount but after remembering a previous comment (thanks Martin555 ๐Ÿ‘) I decided to spray them silver to match the hull interior so I can now install all of the electrics and running gear into the boat.

    First I needed to make a switch and fuse panel as the foundation for the wiring harness but rather than using ply I thought Iโ€™d make it out of some 3mm Plasticard.
    After making a rough sketch of the layout for sizing I began scoring and snapping the styrene to size and shape and very quickly produced a strong mounting bracket.

    I think it would have taken considerably longer to make this out of ply so Iโ€™m quickly gaining an appreciation for the use of styrene as itโ€™s so easy to cut, drill and form, the aperture for the fuse-holder was made by chain drilling and filing and took only minutes to form ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜

    After a coat of primer and two of silver spray the bracket was ready to take the fittings.
    I found a power switch of suitable rating with a built-in red LED on the toggle that looked useful but requires a โ€“ve return to the battery to operate.
    Now I wouldnโ€™t ordinarily mix +ve and โ€“ve on the same pole of a switch for safety reasons, if the internal switching contacts were to fail and short over, but it should be fineโ€ฆand thatโ€™s what the fuse, an ordinary automotive type, is in circuit for anyway.

    The wiring is the usual 14AWG silicone insulated type with either spade connectors or direct soldering to the components with heat shrink covering all the connections and forming the loom. The battery connectors are my preferred XT60 type and the ESC to motor connections are MT60 types.

    I installed the motor and prop-shaft, initially with a rigid coupler, and when I was happy with the alignment I replaced it with a heavy duty rubber coupled type. The shaft lubrication is by a plastic clamp โ€˜oilerโ€™ adaptor clamped to the shaft and drilled through. A short silicone tube extends from the oiler clamp up through the switch and fuse panel with a plastic rod โ€˜stopperโ€™ in the end of the tube.

    The ESC is fixed into the hull on a couple of large cable tie bases with some rigid foam between the tie bases and ESC to cushion it slightly and two cable ties hold it firmly in place. The silicone tubing for the ESC cooling circuit was โ€˜plumbed-inโ€™ and the tubes supported and retained by some more cable ties and all the connections secured with some spring retaining clips.
    The 500mAH 3S battery fits comfortably in the battery tray between two foam packing pieces and Iโ€™ll have a battery monitoring alarm connected to the balance connector while in use. Iโ€™ll select the correct fuse rating after some initial test runs with a watt-meter in circuit but for now Iโ€™ve fitted a 30A fuse.
    The 6 channel receiver was then fixed in the hull with some double-sided foam tape and the dipole antennas set at 90 degrees to each other and held in some styrene tube, one on the hull side and one on a bulkhead.

    I installed the rudder servo, a standard Futaba type, and made a short linkage with ball joints at each end and set it to give approximately 30 degrees throw either side.

    That completes the main electrics for the boat but there will be some additional wiring and switching for the lighting circuits and the radar unit that Iโ€™ll describe in another update ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    13
    15
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Motor and Electrics.
    2 months ago by Newby7 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Very neat and tidy nice job .
    Rick
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Motor and Electrics.
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Rob,
    There is no doubt about it that silver paint makes it look extremely professional.
    A very nice and clean installation.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Motor and Electrics.
    2 months ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Thank you Rick ๐Ÿ˜Š
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Motor and Electrics.
    2 months ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Martin.
    The bare wood did look out of place and the silver Hammerite and metallic silver spray match quite well which makes it all look clean and tidy ๐Ÿ˜.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Motor and Electrics.
    2 months ago by mturpin013 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hi Rob as all have said the coat of silver consolidates everything rather than a collection of different parts, It looks great and as always the neatness of the various components makes for a pleasing internal fitment.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Motor and Electrics.
    2 months ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Thanks Mike.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜
    I chose not to use Hammerite on those bits because while it gives a great finish it does take a few days to dry and harden properly so any time saving making the switch panel out of styrene would have been lost.
    I'm also really pleased with the internal finish and the layout although I will be adding the Turnigy R/C switches for the lighting circuits and the radar controller PCB so there's another switch/fuse/connector panel and a bunch of wires and a circuit board to add.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Motor and Electrics.
    2 months ago by Graham93 ( Commander)
    Flag
    Very nice Rob. Clean, neat and tidy. I always seem to find that I need to make a hole somewhere after I've painted it ๐Ÿ˜ 

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Motor and Electrics.
    2 months ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    "I always seem to find that I need to make a hole somewhere after I've painted it"

    Me too Graham..... and if you look closely you'll see where I've 'touched in' the paint to cover the bare wood and my lack of foresight ๐Ÿ˜†
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Motor and Electrics.
    2 months ago by Skydive130 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Gotta love plasticard Rob, Iโ€™m using it more and more and requires so much less work to prepare for finish. Great instal, looks superb๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘

    One question, where did you got E neat little black plastic cable tidies Youโ€™ve used on your water cooling tubes, like them a lot ๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Motor and Electrics.
    2 months ago by robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Sy.
    The cable the bases are very common, certainly in an old line of work, I must have use hundreds of them and many thousands of cable ties !
    You can buy them in eBay. See the link.

    I have a question for you...where did you get the wooden rings for the life belts on your pilots boat?
    Cheers.
    Rob.
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Natural-or-Black-Adhesive-Cable-Tie-Base-All-Sizes-Pack-of-100/263083877600?_trkparms=ispr=1&hash=item3d410564e0:g:VTsAAOSwGBtZZSEy&enc=AQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu/n+zU5L90Z278x5ickkXKoKcbeZcOrOku+oOBl+S8ychRIE4odk65CbdzE0+UfHI1dl/t29DQFyFB3CTOMAvuHofEebrY/oAfCsHhWtyLYrFB1wyj/k39NHANSLpPUiCNvcbvvrjeTc/W+PORSf/wmnCiJuPIO24lxmc7kZ36d+I8dIf98GDnfTBCUdDSXKV/Ryb+IGEg4DtoNFQxMKk1jtRtrQRWDgGnnldn7XcsZ7Gttj1ULyqXQdPhIdfbGuBniWCOFNG2tQmq1XNoxgKalJeACZCDoUc9Ig0fB26yK2UdCfr
    ๐Ÿ”—
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Motor and Electrics.
    2 months ago by Ianh ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    Very available in SA Eskom use them for maintenance on the Power Stations judging by the amount of blackouts๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Motor and Electrics.
    2 months ago by Ianh ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    Can try RS Components
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Motor and Electrics.
    2 months ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
    Flag
    Excellent tidy installation Rob, and with that battery and motor it's probably going to go like a rocket !
    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Motor and Electrics.
    2 months ago by hmsnostalgia ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    Flag
    Robbob I think you missed your vocation, with your prototyping skills you should've working for an aviation or automotive (skunk works) division ! ๐Ÿ˜œ
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Motor and Electrics.
    2 months ago by hmsnostalgia ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    Flag
    Very tidy job ๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ—ฃ๏ธ Share
    1
    Show 24 More Posts


    About This Website
    Terms of Service
    Privacy Policy
    Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info