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    Star 45 Racing Yacht Build
    by Joe727 ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ ( Lieutenant)
    ๐Ÿ“ฃ










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    20 Posts 78 Comments 0 Photos 155 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ Ordering some supplies
    2 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Not a lot to photograph for a few days. Designing the sail arm based on my measurement of the boom and jib travel. The main boom has quite a bit of travel so I will probably do the 1:3 design shown in the first diagram photo. Jib will probably be 2:1.

    Ordered some 2mm Carbon Fiber Plate off of ebay, hope to get it soon so I can make the Sail Arm.

    I ordered some sail cloth, I am using Sailrite's Ripstop 0.75oz 60" Nylon Sailcloth in both white and red.

    Sail Servo Mount was epoxied in today, curing now.
    Joe ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ“ Sail Servo Mount, Location and Sail Arm Mock-up
    4 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Time to determine the location of the Sail Servo. I need to have all equipment locations set so that I can design the deck and it's hatch locations. Main items are the rudder servo, sail servo, deck penetrations and all required blocking (reinforcement) needed, sheet location, etc.

    The Sail Servo is a beast, the Hitec HS-815BB has 19.8kg/cm of torque at 4.8 volts! Gone are the days when only drum winches worked well with sails, I have been using sail arms since 2004 with great luck. Easy to setup, adjust and keep tuned. Best of all, cheap at about $50usd. A word of caution, don't get your hands in the way when these are activated. They are quite capable of breaking fingers and even arms....caution!

    Built a sturdy servo mount for placement in the hull. Once installed it may required additional bracing, we shall see. The carbon fiber sail arm is from my older Falmouth Gaff Rigged Cutter. This is an example of what I build for the sail arm. But first, to determine the proportions and design, I just mock-up an arm with a stick of wood. Drilled with different centerline and distances, I set it in place. Next step will be to mock-up the mast, main boom and jib boom so that I can mark the travel of the sheets / lines. I will setup and mark travel from min to max and calculate best arm lengths. Shorter the better as a long arm reduces the available torque considerably.

    I enjoy the next step but it must wait until I am fresh in the morning. ๐Ÿ˜ด๐Ÿ˜ด๐Ÿ˜ด
    Joe
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Sail Servo Mount, Location and Sail Arm Mock-up
    2 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Captain)
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    I like the servo mount. It looks sturdy and quite easy to make.๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Sail Servo Mount, Location and Sail Arm Mock-up
    2 days ago by Rookysailor ( Commander)
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    That's a beast of a mount for a beast of a servo Joe,
    lovely build๐Ÿ‘


    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Sail Servo Mount, Location and Sail Arm Mock-up
    2 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Pete,
    Thank you for the comment, I just epoxied the mount to the hull minutes ago. I used some of my glass fibers mixed in so that it would sit well and adhere to the hull. Don't want this thing flying off on its own.
    Joe ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Sail Servo Mount, Location and Sail Arm Mock-up
    2 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Yes, I am focusing on keeping this build as simple as possible.
    Joe ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ“ Scratch Built Deck Fittings for stays, shrouds, jib anchor
    7 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    I usually build my own deck fittings for my sailboats, methods of attaching shroud lines, stays, etc. Sketched up some ideas and gave one a try. It uses a solid brass 3/16" rod that I thread one end and beat the #*ร—## out of the other end with a hammer. Then I drilled a hole in it, got out the files, shaped it a bit and within minutes had something that may work pretty well and not bad looking.

    I reinforced the bow to take the jib stay. Used fiberglass with some milled glass fibers. I installed a brass insert that provides 10-24 thread to accept my threaded fittings. Not screwed in all the way yet, just a mockup. I will probably do some sort of round escutcheon plate. More later getting late.
    Joe ๐Ÿ˜Œ๐Ÿ˜ด๐Ÿ˜ด๐Ÿ˜ด
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    ๐Ÿ“ Sheeting Tube - Bending brass tube
    7 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    I needed a clear path to run the Jib Sheeting from above deck down and to the sail servo arm. Rather than just run the line loose and risk snagging I decided to bend a brass tube to use as a conduit. The problem is I've never bent brass tube before. Of course the internet knows how....๐Ÿ˜Š.

    Took the straight brass tube and heated it red hot with my butane torch, let cool. This aneals it. Then I packed the tube with table salt. Tamped it down and taped each end shut with duct tape. Yes, just tape. Bent slowly over a curved scrap of wood. It worked! ๐Ÿ˜‹

    Photos show it it mocked up in boat, I'm happy.
    More to come,
    Joe๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Sheeting Tube - Bending brass tube
    7 days ago by Skydive130 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Very nice Joe, great tip on bending small dia brass tube๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Sheeting Tube - Bending brass tube
    7 days ago by jbkiwi ( Rear Admiral)
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    Good idea for your sheet fairlead, should run nicely in that.
    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Sheeting Tube - Bending brass tube
    7 days ago by Martin555 ( Admiral)
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    Hi Jo,
    Thank you for sharing your tube bending tip.
    Good work.


    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Sheeting Tube - Bending brass tube
    7 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Forgot to mention, the tube is about 3/8" id.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Sheeting Tube - Bending brass tube
    5 days ago by Nerys ( Captain)
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    I can see the advantage of using a bent brass tube for this purpose, but I have always used plastic tube and that has always seemed to be perfectly satisfactory and very easy to handle.

    Cheers, Nerys
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Sheeting Tube - Bending brass tube
    5 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Nerys,
    Yes, flexible plastic tubing would work well. Did not have any on hand and I having been meaning to try to bend the brass tubing I had.

    Thanks for your interest.
    Joe
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Sheeting Tube - Bending brass tube
    3 days ago by Ianh ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Nice but you can always use a bending spring or a tube bender as well. There used to be stuff available called Roses Metal which was a very low metal point mixture fill the tube let it cool bend and melt it out.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Sheeting Tube - Bending brass tube
    3 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Ian,
    I have seen those bending springs in hobby stores but never really thought they would work. Have you used them?

    I would pick some up but all the hobby shops closed around here a few years ago.
    Joe
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Sheeting Tube - Bending brass tube
    3 days ago by Graham93 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    "There used to be stuff available called Roses Metal which was a very low metal point mixture fill the tube let it cool bend and melt it out."

    You can use soft solder to achieve the same result. Plug one end of the tube with a bit of wood, mount it upright in a block of wood, heat it with a small gas torch and feed the solder in until it is full. Bend the tube and then melt the solder out. I used the method for the sheet guide on my yacht.

    Graham93
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    ๐Ÿ“ Sheet locations, Keel Box epoxied
    9 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Photos show drilling of sheet openings at two points. Shown with vertical pencils in photo.

    Continued with keel box, added lid which is epoxied in place. Hole accepts metal rod from keel and bulb. Once keel and bulb are installed, the metal rod will be in tension. Keel and bulb can be removed for transport if desired.

    Now in the process of costing the interior of the hull in epoxy resin.
    ๐Ÿ˜Œ๐Ÿ˜ด๐Ÿ˜ด๐Ÿ˜ดJoe
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Sheet locations, Keel Box epoxied
    9 days ago by ianed57 ( Midshipman)
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    Joe,

    I have been following with great interest and increasing awe at the standard of your workmanship. It will be fascinating to see how she finally turns out. I know you cast the keel a few years ago but it would be interesting to know more of the process.

    Ian
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Sheet locations, Keel Box epoxied
    8 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Ian,
    Thanks for the interest and your comments.

    My experience with casting lead bulbs is limited to when I did it with the gentleman that taught me how to build sailing yachts. He had a shop setup with all of the required equipment. To start, he had created a number of bulb shapes and various weights on his lathe. All were aerodynamic shapes. I'll call them plugs.

    These plugs were used to make sand molds. Lead was melt, slag skimmed off and poured into the sand molds. We made a number of bulbs at the same time with other club members because setup took some doing.

    I'll have to admit it was a tricky and dangerous process and not something I would do on my own.

    Bulbs can be purchased online, not inexpensive as lead prices are up and shipping gets expensive.

    Joe
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Sheet locations, Keel Box epoxied
    6 days ago by ianed57 ( Midshipman)
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    Thanks Joe,

    I have cast simple bulbs using plaster moulds baked in the oven to ensure no moisture is present but your bulb did look quite involved. I also cast lead in wooden moulds for ballast in scale boats, quite safe if sensible precautions are taken. I recently tried to make lead shot, having viewed some YouTube videos - absolutely no success there. I wonder if anyone else has managed this.

    Ian
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    ๐Ÿ“ Mast Step, Rudder Servo & Keel Box
    9 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    I've determined where I want the feed openings for the sheets to be for the main sail and job. ("Sheets" is the term for the lines that will run from the servo arm to the booms to control the sails). Since these want to be centered along the boat centerline they will puncture the King Plank, so I am reinforcing the king planks to allow for a cut opening.

    The Mast has a base with a 1/8" dia pin that will sit in the mast step. Made a mast step out of 1/4" x 3/4" aluminum bar. Cut and drilled, then set in place on bottom of the hull, see photo.

    Did a simple plywood support for the rudder servo, see photo with servo set in place.

    Keel slot needs a box that encloses it to a height above the boats water line. Built of 1/8" plywood, then coated inside and out with resin. Set in place with epoxy. Will get a sealed top...coming soon.

    Always put my Titebond in my little containers. Back to work.
    Joe๐Ÿคž
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    ๐Ÿ“ Keel & Rudder Mockup, Lead Bulb work in progress
    10 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    For this build I will be using what I have on hand whenever possible. The lead bulb shown is about 6 lbs and is one of several bulbs that I cast back in 2006.

    The keel and rudder are VERY ROUGH at this point. They are laminated layers of plywood which will be shaped further to a more aerodynamic shape. Once shaped, I will fiberglass and paint them.

    The hull "design" has a center of bouyancy 0.4" ahead of the station shown, I put a brass screw to mark this spot so I can see this point on the bottom of the hull. 3 1/2" slot was then marked and cut. Next photos show the mockup of the rudder and keel fin on the hull. Looks okay to me, just need to refine both.

    More on the hull work later today.
    Joe ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Keel & Rudder Mockup, Lead Bulb work in progress
    10 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Me heap big dunce when comes to sailing boats of any description๐Ÿ˜”
    I can only admire the superb woodwork that you yachties get up to!
    Gobsmacked!๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    Way to go Joe๐Ÿ‘
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Keel & Rudder Mockup, Lead Bulb work in progress
    10 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Doug,
    Thank you for the great comments. Every build has a learning curve, so it's nice to be learning new techniques and experimenting.
    Regards,
    Joe ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Keel & Rudder Mockup, Lead Bulb work in progress
    10 days ago by Martin555 ( Admiral)
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    Hi Joe,
    I am like Doug and know absolutely nothing about sailing boats.
    However i do have a question.
    How do you workout how heavy the keel can/should be.?

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Keel & Rudder Mockup, Lead Bulb work in progress
    8 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Martin555,
    I wish there was a simple answer to your question, a simple formula, but the keel design and weight is just a part of the overall sailboat design. The hull size and shape, mast designs and amount of sails to be carried are just parts of the design. I don't claim to be an expert on sailboat design, not even close. Too much to try to cover in a blog.

    There are many great books on this subject and design and research continue today. It is fascinating and I started on the model boats aspect in about 2003 and continue to learn each day.

    Even this boat, based on the Star 45 design, does not give a specific bulb weight, just a suggested range. Once the boat is completely assembled with sails in place there are balance tests that I do, I'll take some photos at that point. The bulb weight may have to be adjusted at that point. I already had this bulb on hand so it's a start. At 6 lbs I suspect it may be a little light, we will see.

    Thanks for your interest.
    Joe
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Keel & Rudder Mockup, Lead Bulb work in progress
    8 days ago by Martin555 ( Admiral)
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    Hi Joe,
    Thanks i will have to wait and see what you do about it later in your log.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Off the Building Board
    11 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    The hulls second coat of resin went well and I decided that if I do a third resin coat it will happen after the deck is on. So I cut the hull from the building board support. I was amazed at how light the hull is, almost nothing. That cedar bottom was very light after all.

    Installed king planks. Now comes the fun part, locating the mast, keel and rudder. This is a proven design but these location are always critical and it doesn't hurt to leave some tolerance for adjustment once it's ready for the pond. Framed an opening for the mast which I will place through the deck and will sit on a base just above the hull bottom. The mast will be removable for easy transport. Keel slot started as seen in the photos and will be 3 1/4" long to accommodate the keel insert. Planks cut from pine were installed on both side of hull to act as shroud hardware support.

    Still having fun.
    Joe ๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ˜
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Off the Building Board
    11 days ago by Skydive130 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Looks fab Joe, betting that hull is straight as a straight thing from straights Ville ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Off the Building Board
    11 days ago by Martin555 ( Admiral)
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    Great job Joe.

    I can just imagine how you felt when she came off of
    the building board.
    And then when you saw that there was not a disaster hiding underneath all of those bands.
    Great relief.
    Well done.

    Martin555
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Off the Building Board
    11 days ago by Rookysailor ( Commander)
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    Just as beautiful inside, as she is on the outside Joe๐Ÿ˜Š

    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Off the Building Board
    11 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Martin555
    I would have been shocked if it came off and twisted like a pretzel!

    Thanks for your positive comments,
    Joe ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Off the Building Board
    11 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Sy,
    Have to give some credit to the old www for available info.

    In my career, I was basically a problem solver, first step was always to gather all the facts, clearly define the problem first, no preconceptions! Never jump to conclusions. I would imagine that as a military man you had similar training.....
    Joe ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘ppl
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Off the Building Board
    11 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Pete,
    Well thank you, the inside always needs some cleaning up, but she's holding together. Thank you for your interest! ๐Ÿ‘
    Joe
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    ๐Ÿ“ 2nd Coat of Resin
    13 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    This morning I put a second coat of resin on the hull. But first I washed the off the amine blush, couldn't really see it but scrubbed the hull with warm water and dried anyway. I've read that it is sometimes transparent, so wash away.

    Sanded the high spots and roughed the hull for a second coat. I applied this coat using a brush only and considered applying a third coat while the second was still tacky. I decided I was not in a rush so I would wait overnight, sand and then do a third coat. No need to rush this build, just enjoying it.
    Joe ๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: 2nd Coat of Resin
    4 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Captain)
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    That looks like a super finish Joe.๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: 2nd Coat of Resin
    4 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Thank you, it did work out better than expected. I am always still in a learning curve!
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ˜Ž
    Joe
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    ๐Ÿ“ She's wet......with glass!
    14 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Working late last night I was able to get the stern trimmed and final sanded the hull. So this today was a good time to fiberglass.

    Photo shows the West System epoxy resin that I use. I always keep some in the shop as I use it on a lot of different projects. I chose the #106 Slow Hardener as I like the work time on it. Since it is always tends to be warm weather here, epoxy sets up a bit faster. The 106 gives me a Pot Life of 25 minutes and a Working Time of about 90 minutes. Gets real hard in 12 hours and continues to fully cure for about 4 days.

    NOTE, the fiberglass cloth shown is LAST RESORT DUE TO LOCKDOWN. I was out of fiberglass cloth which I usually buy off a roll at the boat supply houses nearby. Due to Covid, I was not able to get it. The Bondo cloth shown in the package photo is what the open hardware had. Its disappointing because the packaging creates some bad folds. I laid it out for several days but it still looks troublesome- see photos.

    Laid the fiberglass cloth on the hull which is still attached to the building board. The cloth can be smoothed on the irregular form by gently smoothing it with your hands or a light brush. I use cheap plastic gloves and work out as much of the kinks as I can. I do not do videos well so I will try to find a link that I have seen on the net that shows this method well.

    Trimmed the cloth to allow for about 2 " margin all around. The binder clips at the bow and stern hold the cloth until I get enough resin on it so the cloth doesn't move.

    I start in the center applying the resin and work my way slowly in all directions using a short bristle brush about 2 1/2" wide. Again, was not able to video it so I will find that good link and post it.

    I was able to smooth out those wrinkles but I won't know if I have bubble problems for a few more hours.

    Because of this, rather than do additional coats now, I will let it cure, then wash and sand prior to further coats.

    Joe ๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ˜Œ๐Ÿ˜ด๐Ÿ˜ด
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: She's wet......with glass!
    14 days ago by Martin555 ( Admiral)
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    Hi Joe,
    looks like the Bondo fibreglass came out ok.
    good work.

    One thing i have noticed is when members stars laying fibreglass no one mentions Rollers.

    Many many years ago i did fibreglass laminating and after coating the cloth with resin we used rollers to make sure there were no bubbles and to ensure the resin was squeezed evenly.

    I am assuming that there is no need due to the size ?

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: She's wet......with glass!
    14 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Martin555,
    I have never used rollers. The fellow that taught me only used a brush, I use a brush and a spreader / squeege. I have a number of different types of rollers, I will have to try that, it sounds like it makes sense. I know that if I overwork an area with a squeege it can cause bubbles to form.

    I will be doing some additional coats on Sunday, I may test the roller idea, thanks.
    Joe
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: She's wet......with glass!
    14 days ago by Skydive130 ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Looks stunning, I love fresh laid cloth!

    I always use blank credit cards to squeegee the resin after brushing on to start. Iโ€™ve always been lucky that in my last job, I had to make up permanent passes for base personnel on a machine that makes ID cards (same as a blank Plastic credit card), so I have a box of hundreds, use once discard!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: She's wet......with glass!
    14 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Sy
    I agree, credit cards are a perfect size for these size projects.

    Thanks for the comments

    Joe
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: She's wet......with glass!
    13 days ago by Rookysailor ( Commander)
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    You need not have worried about using the Bondo cloth Joe, as the finish is really nice๐Ÿ‘, I would be happy if any of my glassing jobs came out like yours.


    Cheers, Pete
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: She's wet......with glass!
    13 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Pete,
    As it cured it did raise some high spots where the folds were (on the bottom only). I will sand those and do some additional coats of resin today. Overall it did work out okay.
    Thanks for your interest.
    Joe
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: She's wet......with glass!
    12 days ago by jbkiwi ( Rear Admiral)
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    Re - One thing i have noticed is when members stars laying fibreglass no one mentions Rollers.

    May be something useful in this-
    I always use rollers Martin as they help to work the resin through the cloth, especially on large areas. I use the standard diam 100mm rollers with a short haired gloss sleeve for full sized boats and the small 100x 35mm rollers for the models. You don't need to card excess off this way, as you can keep working the resin constantly all over the hull to even the coating (for the first coat,) same applies to subsequent coats. On the models I use 3oz glass cloth or Dynel (which will wrap around curved surfaces better) Dynel cloth is woven as apposed to F/glass cloth and has better impact strength, but is not as stiff as glass. Takes a bit more work to get it smooth, but worth it. Did my 18ft 'A' class cat with it and it was bulletproof. Recently covered my 1970s 12ft racing dinghy restoration in 6oz glass, which added quite a bit of weight to it but will now last forever (also done with std 100mm roller.)

    I find when glassing models, once you have applied the resin to the hull (or deck) hang as many clothes pegs (and or small clamps) as you can around the excess cloth as this will help gently stretch it and help with cloth folds (as with Joes' cloth). Also as the resin is setting slightly, use the roller to roll the cloth round from the keel to the edges (helps 'iron' the creases out. Cut and flood any stubborn bubbles with spare resin as you can sand it off later.
    I'm with Skydive, nothing like a newly glassed hull !, and you know it will be there for years to come.
    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: She's wet......with glass!
    12 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    JB,
    Really great information on glassing, very helpful. I especially like the use of clips on the excess cloth, would have saved me some sanding of those fold areas. I will have to look into the cloth you mentioned.

    I am still a novice when it comes to fiberglass work so all the tips I can get are great! ๐Ÿ‘
    Joe
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: She's wet......with glass!
    3 days ago by Ianh ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I have aeroplane tissue as well Seems to work as it strengthens the wood
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: She's wet......with glass!
    3 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Ian,
    I have some different airplane covering materials from when I was doing a lot of stick and tissue models. I seem to recall seeing posts on using this with resin. I will have to look this up, I think one is called Coverall.

    Thanks for your interest.
    Joe
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