Hi Guys,
This may come as a bit of a shock to you but i am going to do another build log.
It may also be a DOUBLE SHOCK as this boat will be made from WOOD. yes you did read this right WOOD,!! and not my usual Ice cream tubs,Yogurt pots and Margarine tubs.
The last wooden boat i made must of been about 35 to 40 years ago
So this will be fun.
I would imagine there will be a few words spoken that will not be printable LOL!!

As you know i have had big trouble getting motivated with my model making for some time now and that coupled with a few medical and other problems has seen very little modelling activity from me.

I have been approached by a friend to make this model for him.

I know i still have to complete HMS Cottesmore and the Submarine U552 but somehow i just can’t get in to the small detail work at the moment.

So i hope by making something that will not be complicated and not have lots of bits that could brake off will motivate me and take my mined off of all the other things that are happening at the moment.

I am using the ‘Flying Christina II’ kit from HAKits as a base.
The plan is just to make something that is functional and pleasing to the eye.
She will not be modelled on any particular boat so some modifications will be done.
I would like to get a few bits and bobs working but without getting overly complicated.
Hopefully this will also help me to get my MOJO back.

Martin555.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

It arrived in just a few days from ordering wrapped in brown paper and bubble wrap, and there was no signs of any damage.

The kit is just in a polythene bag with a printed card top with an image and the boat name.

On opening the kit it comprises of two sheets of 2mm x 285mm x 825mm ply wood laser cut parts.
And three sheets of 3mm x285mm x 825mm ply wood of laser cut parts that they are all clearly marked with a name or part number.

The quality of the ply wood is not the best but is suitable and fit for the purpose.

Also there are 2 strips of wood approx 6mm x 3mm x 865mm.
And 2 strips of wood approx 3mm x 3mm x 865mm
and 1 small strip of wood approx 3mm x 3mm x 240mm.

There is a thin card sheet with window templates marked on it and plastic window frames attached to the card.
And a thin sheet of clear plastic for the windows.

The wood smells burnt but that could be because i think the kit is laser cut to order.

The Instructions are very simple and easy to understand with numbered assembly sequence and pictorial images.

The construction is of the Ezzee Build system.

The model is 1/16 scale and measures 32 inches long. (Approx 815mm) and designed to take a radio control system.

You can also get the running gear :-
Prop shaft.
Rudder assembly.
Universal Joint Coupling.

From HAKits.

Martin555.

Hi guys.

I will mainly be making this kit as the instruction state.
Altho i may make some changes on the way but i will have to see how it goes.

Firstly you will need room to put the sheets of ply wood so that they stay flat.
Then you need a flat surface to assemble on, and a flat surface to enable you to cut out the parts from the ply wood.

The parts are easy to cut out of the ply wood with a sharp scalpel.

The instructions call for thick and thin cyano glue (Super glue) (C A) to glue the model together.

So here we go.

I used the polythene kit bag on the assembly work area to stop the assembly sticking to the Bench/Table top.

The first thing i found it the instructions say glue B2 to the Hull Base then glue the Bow former place.

I found it a lot easer to glue the Bow former to B2 first then glue it all to the Hull base.

I won’t go in to this assembly in great detail as i am sure you have seen this all before, however i will report anything that i find easer than as described in the kit instructions.

The important thing is you keep the Hull Base flat by adding weight or pinning it to the flat work surface. and you make sure that the frames are square to it.

Stage 1.
It is very important to make sure the Base has the word ‘Base’ facing up because you will not be able to fit the servo tray mount in to its corresponding slot mentioned in stages 4 as the slot is off centre.

I again found it much easer to glue the twoTransom supports to B6, then glue the assembly to the base.
Then with a light sanding i was able to slide in the servo tray and servo mount and glue them in position.

Stage 6.
B6 also has a bit more of a middle cut out to one side it is unclear as to why and also if this should be on the port or starboard side.
Looking ahead to the illustration section 14, it dose look as if it should be on the port side.
See photo.3

I will suggest that the words ‘This way up’ is printed on the Hull Base.

Also i will be making notes as i go along and i will report back to HAKits anything i find.

Stage 9.
Says glue the motor mount supports to the base then fix the mounting plate to the supports. I will skip this as i may make a different motor mount to suit the prop shaft angle.

Stage 10.
Glue and fit the deck, again i will skip this as i don’t like the idea of not gaining access to the rudder servo and rudder linkages.
I will just tape the deck on for the moment as later i will hopefully move the servo and have a hatch above the rudder area.

Martin555.

Hi guys.

This part of the hull went together very well.

A Note to the new model makers be careful when using the thin (CA) Super glue.

As i am using an 8mm O/D prop shaft tube i had to double up on the prop shaft doublers, the same with the rudder shaft tube. ( stage 14)

There is plenty of scrap ply to make them out of.

So far the hardest part of this build has been drilling the hole for the prop shaft.

Stage (15)
After cutting and fitting the bow and keel doublers, i decided to cut a 5mm strip from the long side of a 3mm sheet of the ply (scrap at this stage) and glue a piece each side of the keel to give me a little bit more to attach the bottom sheets to.
I sanded them down to match the profile for the bottom sheets to glue to.

So far it all goes together as per the instruction sheet with the exceptions of what i have already mentioned.

I will now skip to stage (24) the start of the superstructure.

The reason behind the skip is i want to see how and were i can locate the servos, motor, batteries, receiver, etc.

It will be a lot easer to see what room you have with out the sides on.

Martin555.

Hi Guys,

As you will be building on the deck remember to put tape or polythene on the deck to stop the superstructure being glued to it.

I clamped the cabin frame down to the deck as that it will adopt the proper deck shape.

Stage (25)

The instructions say glue C1, C2, C3, C4 to cabin frame.
There is no indication of position as to where they go.
So it was a simple case of dry fitting to find there location.
C1 forward C4 aft.
As the deck has a slight curve to it you will not be able to use a square to make sure they are square to the cabin frame.
so you just have to eye them as vertical as possible.

C4 has a doorway laser cut in but held in by two uncut sections.
I am assuming it is so you have the option of an open or closed door.
So a decision has to be made before this part is glued in place.

If you go for an open door you will have to gut away some of the deck and frame 5.
I have decided to have the closed door.

Stage 26.

To fit the super structure sides you first need to sand down the bottom edge to match the slight deck curve.

Because of the sanding to match the deck it has now altered the front cabin roof.

I had to sand down the deck-head curve on C1 to line up with the superstructure sides.
Also the cabin front support (stage 27) had to be lowered.

To do this i just cut off the locating tap and glued it a little lower down also to line up with the superstructure sides.

The slot on C1 was then filled with a small piece of the scrap ply wood.

NOTE.
The cabin front and front side panels (stage 28, 29) will also have to be cut down to fit.
Remove the wood from bottoms of the panels, and remember to chamfer the edges to ensure a good fit.
Keep dry fitting until you are happy with the fit.
Then glue in position.

As you can see in the photos i did not get my angles right but i am sure that a bit of filler will sort that out.

Martin555.

Hi Guys,

I taped up the aft well deck and fitted it in place just to see what room was available just incase i decided to move the rudder servo.

After some thought i decided to leave it were it was as in the instruction booklet (stage 5, 6.)

The instructions do not tell you when to fit the rudder and rudder servo.
you will have to fit them before the deck is glued on.

Unfortunately when the deck is glued on (stage 10) you will be unable to do any maintaining at a later date should anything go wrong with the rudder/servo/linkage.

So the best answer was to cut a hatch to enable maintenance.
I hope to hide this hatch later.

This was done before fitting the deck.

I then temporally fitted the rudder servo and rudder only using the hatch and the opening inside the hull, so i now know that i can do any maintenance in this area when required.

A screwdriver with a Magnet attached helped when screwing down the servo screws.

Now with the deck glued on i though it best to give it a coat of paint in all the areas that i will not be able to reach when the bottom and side skins are put on.

I will chamfer the hull prior to fitting the skins.

Soaked the bow ends of the bottom skins for a couple of minutes and temporally clamped them to the hull until they are dry as it makes it easer to fit them without having to much strain on them. (I hope).

Martin555.

Hi Guys,

The bottom hull skins went on reasonably well. with little trouble (stage 18, 19)
But i did struggle with the side skins. (Stage 20, 21)
At the bow i had to use 4 wood screws to hold everything in place until the glue dries.
When i remove the screws i will plug the holes with dowels or cocktail sticks sand them back and you will never know.

It is not perfect.
Made a few mistakes as you can see in photos (4, 5 ) but they can easily be sorted out with a bit of filler and then the spray rails.

I think i struggled more than most as i have not done much with wood before, and it will definitely be challenging for a novice model makers.

With the exception of fitting the cabin roof (deck head) Spray rails and rubbing strake that is most of the main building done.

I have not made the engine boxes (stage 36 - 39 ) at the moment as i am not sure if i am going to use them yet.

The rest of the stages (40 - 43 ) are just little detail pieces.

So now i can look forward to the more interesting parts of the build.

I think my next job should be to make a stand for it.
If i can find something to make it out of LOL!!

Then i think fitting the prop shaft and motor mount.

Martin555.

Hi Guys.

The stand is made from some old Draw backs that a neighbour had thrown out.
It is nothing fancy but it will stop the boat falling allover the place whilst i work on it.
Gave it a quick coat of yacht varnish to make it look a little better.

Fitted a strip of black foam to each upright just to stop the hull getting damaged.

Martin555.

Hi Guys,

Glued on the rubbing strake’s and spray rails

Fitted the prop shaft.

Although a motor mount is supplied in three bits of ply in the kit I used some scrap kit ply wood to make a new Motor mount to make sure that the alignment of motor and prop shaft was correct.
I will do the Final tweaking latter.

Also made a removable tray to hold the battery, receiver, ESC and a couple of other little bits.

I wish i had drilled some holes in some of the frame bottoms before i put the skins on then i could of hidden the wires better.

Gave the inside of the hull a quick coat of paint.

Now i will be jumping about on this build as the main assembly has been done.

Martin555.

Hi Guys.

This part of the build is not in the instructions, in fact most of this build now will be me just having a play.

Believe it or not i have got a plan in my head or at least i did have when i started this.

I have seen some fantastic deck work done by other more skilful members on this site so i have decided that it is something that i will have a go at.

Firstly
Two strips of wood was soaked in water for a couple of minuets then clamped to the ply wood former.
I used the sheet of ply wood that the deck came out of to help form the wood strips that go around the edge of the deck.

The wood i am using is odds and ends that i have collected over the years.
I don’t know what the different woods are called so i will call them light wood or dark wood or even lighter wood and darker wood.

Most of the build was put together using CA glue (superglue)

The wooden deck planks (7 mmx 1mm x 320mm) was glued down with white wood glue (PVA), that allowed time to move and align the wood and plastic strips.

Unfortunately i have been getting withdraw symptoms for not building in plastic, LOL!!
So i cut some plastic (1mm x 0.5mm) white strips from a sheet of A4 to go in-between the planks.

The deck was sanded back and given a few coats of Yacht Varnish.

(The photos were taken prior to rubbing down and varnishing)

Martin555.

Hi Guys,

Now you see it, Now you don’t.

The hatch i cut earlier to gain access to the rudder and servo now blends in and you would not know it is there.
I might have to add some small magnets or something so that i dose not suddenly part company from the rest of the boat.

Martin555.

Hi Guys.

I was quite surprised how the main deck came out as i have never done it like that before so i decided to do the same thing on the well deck.
This time i used narrower strips (4mm x 1mm x 240mm) again using 1mm x 0.5mm white plastic strips cut from the A4 sheet.

Panelled the sides and back bulkheads of the well deck with a darker wood.
Again a few coats of varnish, rubbing down in-between coats.

I then worked on the forward bulk head again applying strips of dark wood and treating it to some varnish.

It was definitely easer to work on each piece of the Well deck separately and then glue them together as trying to sand and varnish as one unit would of been a bit difficult.

Light and dark wood strips were applied to the door.

The hinges were three bits of brass cut to (5mm x 2mm) and the door handle was made by bending and flattening the same 2mm brass and a small collet added just for looks.

This boat has more stripes than a Zebra LOL!!!!

Martin555.

Hi Guys,

It has been a while since my last update but this stage takes a bit of time to do.

Watching paint dry dose take time and is not that exciting (I have heard that said somewhere before LoL!)

I started by spreading ‘ready mixed Exterior filler to the wooden hull.
(Purchased from a DIY store.) it is a multi purpose filler.
Working one section at a time filling and rubbing down quite a few times until i felt happy enough to think about applying some paint to help seal the wood.

I did not have any primer paint however i did have a small tin of Humbrol matt white that has been sitting around for some years so after a really good mixing i used it as my primer.

It worked ok i could see what needed more filler and what needed a bit more sanding down.

I then concentrated on the bottom and applied a few coats of Red Humbrol Gloss (No 19.)
I decided that i would hand paint the first three coats rubbing down in-between, then depending on the Finnish i thought i would spray the final coats.
But i was surprised how well the Finnish was so i left it at that and did not bother spraying.

The next stage was the White gloss paint Humbrol (No 22.)
Again hand painted.

I don’t want this to look brand new i just want it to look as if it has been used but looked after. (well that is the excuse and i am sticking to it)

The rubbing strake was painted with Humbrol (No 33 Matt)

Martin555.

Hi guys,
Just a little update.

Fitted the removable electronics tray, motor, prop, and rudder system.

I now have to think about what else i want to make work.

I am using a six channel system on this boat.
So far only two channels used.

Martin555.

Hi Guys,

Just another little update.

There is not really a lot i can say about this bit.

I have decided to panel the superstructure with the dark wood strips (5mm x 0.50mm)
Again coats of varnish and rubbing down in-between coats.

I have left off the roof at the moment as i will change the front and i might want to do a little something in the wheelhouse, so it will be easer to get in to.

Still more work to be done.

Incase you were wondering what the boat and stand is on it is an old sowing machine table that is on wheel that can be moved around to wherever i need it.
It is another rescued item that was destine for the rubbish dump.

Martin555.

Hi Guys,

I am overwhelmed by the support of the members on this site.
And i would like to thank you all for your kind comments and support through what has been a crazy time.

You have made it difficult for me to leave LOL!!

So i shell continue to do my best to help were i can.

Now back to the log.

Glued on the roof (Deck head) to the superstructure and modified the front a little.
I had to cut some strips of the scrap plywood to glue down the inside of the cabin roof to help to level both half of each roof section.

Again plenty of filling and rubbing down.
Added a little paint, and she is starting to look a little better.

Martin555.

Hi Guys.

Decided to use the mast from the kit as a template to make a new one from plastic as we liked the style and shape of it.

Yes you guest it ! (Layers of Ice-cream tub plastic)

The reason for this is that one small knock would snap the wooden one, the plastic one should spring back into place.
(Sorry Nerys it had to be done LOL!!)

The mast light is just a 5mm white LED with the top filed flat and a small piece of plastic stuck to the top using CA glue, and filed round.

After painting the top and bottom of the LED to make the light look as if it is in a housing.

Wire wrapping wire was then solders to the LED.
The wires were glued down the front edge.

When painted the wiring is hardly noticeable.

Martin555.

Hi Guys,

I was tempted to make these from strips of the dreaded ‘P’ but decided to use wood.
Unfortunately the only wood i had was thin strip wood so i glued two strips together for the main rail and two strips for the standoff’s

The standoff’s were then cut to 10mm lengths and glued to the main rails.
After a bit of sanding some varnish was applied and then they were attached to the cabin tops.

Martin555.

Hi Guys,

Navigation lights.

Next to get a coat of looking at was the Navigation lights.
The tops of the LED’s were filed down and a small piece of plastic glued to the top same as the mast light.
Plastic shields were made for them. (there is probably a proper name for them but i cannot think of it at the moment. )

The insides were painted with Humbrol matt black (No 33)
The outsiders again with Humbrol white gloss (No 22)

The plastic is slowly creeping in LOL!!

-------------------------------------------

Life Ring’s

Made from layer’s of Plastic cut to approx 37mm X 22mm the hole was cut out and hand sanded then the outside was cut and also sanded by hand.

Painted with Humbrol (No 22 white gloss and No19 Red gloss)

Martin555.

Hi Guys,
Due to various happening’s including health problems there has been a slight gap in-between updates.

So here is a little update.

This radar was made by using layers af plastic to get the correct thicknesses.
I made a paper template just to get a rough idea as to the size it would need to be.
I drilled a small hole in the centre of each section and passed a wire through, this was used to align it all as it was glued together.
I will drill the hole larger when i modify a small serve to rotate 360 and fit it all to the boat.
This log is now up to date and as soon as i can i will get out in my little workshop and see if i can do a little more to ‘MOJO’

Martin555.

Hi Guys,

Due to a few personal problems i have not been able to do much but here is a little update.

I knocked up a Samson post and a few deck cleats.
The Deck cleats were made the same way as the cabin top hand rails.

Martin555.

Hi Guys,
Well there is not a lot i can say about this as i covers most of this in a How-To.

However i connected the radar to a receiver position that is controlled by a potentiometer on the Transmitter so that it slowed it down a little more.

I have it rotating the in the opposite direction to what i planed but i can always change that latter.

Martin555.

Hi guys,
Today i had a little tinker in my little workshop and decided to strip down another damaged servo to use as the Navigation light control switch.

After removing the PCB, Motor, and Potentiometer from the servo casing i then unsoldered the motor leaving just the potentiometer and PCB.

I then joined the Port, Starbd, and Masthead lights together (Cathode to Cathode Anode to Anode, + to - ) then connected them to the two wires that controlled the motor.
I also fitted a 12R resister in line to dim down the LED's.

The LED controller was then glued in place using Hot Melt glue.

Then i centred the Potentiometer.
Connected the controller to the receiver and now i just flick the switch on the Transmitter and the Navigation lights come on.

You can also use this system to operate two LED Circuits by Connection another set of LED's but reversing the polarity of the LED's

The beeping sound in the video i the Transmitter battery getting low.

Martin555.

Hi Guys,
Quick update,
Made and fitted a couple Fairleads.
Fitted Life Rings.
Made and fitted a couple of mane boards.

I may have a go at the windows next.

Martin555.

Hi Guys,

The windows in this model kit was a little bit disappointing, the window frames are 3D printed plastic and the gazing part is 0.25mm clear plastic sheet.

I first removed the frames from the template sheet.
Then placing the clear plastic sheet over the appropriate window template and then cut the four state edges first then with the aid if some nail clippers i then nipped the corner radius.

Care must be taken to get the clear plastic to fit in the frames as you only have a few mm of lip for the clear plastic to clue to.

I then used UHU clear glue to glue the clear plastic to the frame’s

I used CA glue to glue the frame’s to the superstructure.
Again you only have a few mm of lip on the window frame’s to glue to the superstructure.

It is almost imposable to do this stage without getting light scratches and marks on the clear plastic.

My next stage will be to paint the window frames white.

Martin555.

Hi Guys,
Well i think i will call that it for this one.
Just need to ballast and test in Big Blue.

I think i have achieved the original request.

(The plan is just to make something that is functional and pleasing to the eye, something that will not be complicated and not have lots of bits that could brake off )

Altho i did not stick to the instruction as such i have tried to build this in a way that showed the kit and it’s assembly.

For the price the kit it is good value and goes together well, hopefully i have shown the good and slightly not so good bits of the construction.

The small errors that were found had been forwarded to the kit manufacturer and hopefully these will be addressed.

As you guys know i have not made a boat using wood for many many years, so i am quite pleased with the final outcome.

I hope you enjoyed this build and that it will encourage others into this great hobby.

Martin555.

Hi Guys,

Just a little modification.
A good friend and member pointed out something that could end up being a problem later.
He suggested that a support is fitted to the outer prop shaft tube.
So this was knocked up and fitted and a quick flick of paint and you would not know i cocked it up in the first place LOL!!

Martin555.