Back roof ✅

Found my problem, the antenna wire of the transmitter is broken 🙄
It has a 10meter reception now 🤣.
That’s why the esc cuts of

Hi Renew
I assume you are using 2.4Ghz radio so providing the aerial(s) are always above the waterline and higher than your motor/Esc interference should not be a problem now you have moved the rx away to the back. Make sure all your signal wire is well clear of any high current battery wires. It's possible you have a faulty (dirty contacts) rudder servo that is causing the rx problems. If your sailing waters are heavily weeded then that might be the problem. Hopefully the weather will improve and you can test further
Dave976

I've had similar problems with 2 boats I was given, both were cured by repositioning the receiver and antenna.
All my boats run on sla's or nicads even with brushless motors.
Cheers Colin.

Weather is real bad for weeks, and not a lot of time. If have so much things to try, reviver was next to esc so moved this to back of the boat. But not tested yet . Hope I have some time and weather this weekend

Try running on a 3s with your set up as it is first .if it still cuts off move receiver

Hello, drive shaft is both side balbearings, I am running 4s with 35mm prop, esc is 70A. Test in bathtub with amp meter is not running above 25/30A then it’s not cutting. Only On open water, I think it’s more a problem with receiver interruption.

Hi renew
Coming along nicely. If your Esc is cutting out I suggest you purchase a wattmeter to measure the current/watts used as this may be the cause of the cut out. The drive chain should be free to rotate with no binding and the bearings lubricated. Looking at an earlier post I see the prop has a lock washer but does not butt up to the prop shaft. At the other end I cannot see a bearing and wonder if this may be your problem. NYou have not said what Esc or battery voltage you are using but if it exceeds the max design voltage for the Esc it will shut down to protect its self. Hope you manage to resolve whatever is causing the overheating.
dave976

Thank you! Lots of sanding grid 2000 before clear coat .
Is has bin in the water for test run, but ESC cuts of, weathers is bad last weeks. Hope more testing next week

I really admire the finish you achieved on the hull. Superb.
I am currently trying to get a similar hull completed but the mess left from gluing the strakes on will take days to remove.
Good luck with the superstructure and maiden voyage, and be sure to show us the finished boat on the water.😉

Getting there 😊

My favoured method, especially where compound curves are involved is to use 3mm thick planks which then sand down nicely to form a thinner roof. Mine is 1:12

Thanks for the advice.
I am making the roof with 2mm ply.
Think that will look fine, mine is 1/10scale .

The roof is quite thin on the real boat. Using a thin piece of ply (1:16) will create the correct appearance. I usually make a small test piece to fit up to the front window at the correct camber for the roof then mark the back of the front window and sand to shape as well as the cabin top sides. You may need to support the underside of the roof with thin strips to keep its shape but once sealed and painted mine has never moved.
Looking good and well on the way to completion.
Dave 976

That’s precisely what I was thinking tonight, front window did not look right. Yours looks great 👍🏻

If you haven't gone too far, a bit of a tip. Don't make the front window too high at the top. The Precedent kits were and don't look right. Can't remember which drawings you used now as a basis. Mine's scratch built and I reduced the height and curve of the window quite a bit. With hindsight I would have made it wider as well.

Sorry about the poor photograph of mine. Full-size boat shown as well.

Oké the easy part was the hull making 🙈

Yes, totally agree. I've applied a number of coats to one of my Fairey hulls and I'm still not entirely happy. It's well protected so I'm probably going to leave it there otherwise it will never get finished and on the water! And I've got 4 more to do!

Update: after repainting 2 times in last 3 months, the lesson learnt is that perfection is a utopia.
It is wat it is, now installing the basic hardware to do some testing kn the water.

I also think many have to little flair 😊,
Ik going to run a 3545 outrunner on 4S lipo
Global setup in the picture

Yes, the strakes are fiddly and time consuming. I used square timber on my Huntsman 28, just sanded the corners off, but on my other builds I've used triangular styrene. I reckon the flare is fine, many builds don't have enough.

Be interesting when you start on the superstructure. Have you decided on a motor yet?

Hello, yes made the sprayrails my self, there made of 4mm round, sawn in half and than sanded to a triangle, was a lot of work 😊.
I sanded the bow in the shape of the front with balsa blocks, and this how it turned out. Thinks it little to much flair compared to the original, but I like it

You're making good progress and the hull looks really good.

You said in another post that you scaled up a 1:16 drawing. I'm guessing you must have modified the area just back from the bow to produce the amount of flare that you have (which looks great and reflects the full -size boat) as I think it was less at the smaller scale.

Did you make your own strakes/spray rails as they are good as well.

I shall be painting the hull on mine soon when I've done the other three.

Chris