Hello Dave, Thank you for the sound advice. I really do appreciate how friendly and helpful members on this site have been. Unfortunately all is not true of some sites. I asked a similar question about finishing and painting an RC aircraft I am also building. The site is a forum for RC flyers. Some answers I received to say the least were not helpful. Some sarcastic to some bordering on just plain rude. Although I have had contact on the site with some very nice people, following the responses to my question and being made to feel like an idiot I am not using the site any more. But I am still in contact via email with two members from the site who give me great advice
I suppose you can say that it takes all sorts to make a world!
Greg 👍
Hello Dave, Thank you for the sound advice. I really do appreciate how friendly and helpful members on this site have been. Unfortunately all is not true of some sites. I asked a similar question about finishing and painting an RC aircraft I am also building. The site is a forum for RC flyers. Some answers I received to say the least were not helpful. Some sarcastic to some bordering on just plain rude. Although I have had contact on the site with some very nice people, following the responses to my question and being made to feel like an idiot I am not using the site any more. But I am still in contact via email with two members from the site who give me great advice
I suppose you can say that it takes all sorts to make a world!
Hey Firefighter, IMHO paint it the best you can and what is easier for you. I don't think you will find 1 person in this Hobby that will pick on your work. A finished functional model is a beautiful thing. And we all love it! Most of these real boats didn't have a glassy paint job at all. All of the suggestions are good ways to paint, experiment on scrap, try different methods. A friend of mine paints and weathers his boats entirely by brush and acrylics and are incredibly detailed. It's amazing how much you can learn from this site! Keep up the good work, look forward to your next update. Thanks, Dave RR
Hey Firefighter, IMHO paint it the best you can and what is easier for you. I don't think you will find 1 person in this Hobby that will pick on your work. A finished functional model is a beautiful thing. And we all love it! Most of these real boats didn't have a glassy paint job at all. All of the suggestions are good ways to paint, experiment on scrap, try different methods. A friend of mine paints and weathers his boats entirely by brush and acrylics and are incredibly detailed. It's amazing how much you can learn from this site! Keep up the good work, look forward to your next update. Thanks, Dave RR
MICHEL -C A good morning
when i saw your boat and the finish i thought i was looking into a mirror !!! i could easely shave my beard( which i don't have) into it
what A FINISH! it is very rear that a father listens to the advice of his son ! normally is the contrary 😊😊😊😊😊
MICHEL -C A good morning
when i saw your boat and the finish i thought i was looking into a mirror !!! i could easely shave my beard( which i don't have) into it
what A FINISH! it is very rear that a father listens to the advice of his son ! normally is the contrary 😊😊😊😊😊
Glad to see you have decided how to paint your boat Chris. The array of responses with different methods and materials tells you that we modellers do what we feel most comfortable with. Outside influences, such as weather, can be a factor not to be ingnored. In the end it comes down to personal choice, and achieving the finish we are happy with.
I'm looking forward to seeing how you got on
😉
Glad to see you have decided how to paint your boat Chris. The array of responses with different methods and materials tells you that we modellers do what we feel most comfortable with. Outside influences, such as weather, can be a factor not to be ingnored. In the end it comes down to personal choice, and achieving the finish we are happy with.
I'm looking forward to seeing how you got on
😉
Hello painters,
Since my oldest son works as a specialised carroseries mechanic and restores classic cars, I have learned a lot about preparation.
Also in painting, back then the Rileys, Morris Oxford, etc. were sprayed with several layers of nitrocellulose lacquer, roughened up again between each layer. That's how I painted my "Aline", the cutter, but with normal car paint.
Finally, I treated it with nano polish, which I repeat every year depending on the number of trips.
Everyone does it their own way.
I find all the comments very interesting, thank you!
Hobbyist's greetings
Michel-Cl.
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Hello painters,
Since my oldest son works as a specialised carroseries mechanic and restores classic cars, I have learned a lot about preparation.
Also in painting, back then the Rileys, Morris Oxford, etc. were sprayed with several layers of nitrocellulose lacquer, roughened up again between each layer. That's how I painted my "Aline", the cutter, but with normal car paint.
Finally, I treated it with nano polish, which I repeat every year depending on the number of trips.
Everyone does it their own way.
I find all the comments very interesting, thank you!
Hobbyist's greetings
Michel-Cl.
Hi
This is how I go about painting my boats, hope it may be of some help
I buy most of my paint form a paint factor, some PANEL WIPE this is for degreasing your model it is far better than Fairy liquid, Use this between EVERY stage of painting. It will get rid of your greasy hand prints Also go out and buy some Tack rags These are used to get rid of all the dust on your model prior to painting Buy some DA disc off EBay or a decent paint supplier far superior than Wet/Dry paper Get some Red Scotch Brite for rubbing down a hull prior to undercoating....Proving NO filler is required Get some Grey Scotch bite........ideal for NOT losing detail like rivets on a plastic hull or Grp Fillers What is there to use, what is really simple and fast to rub down, what doesn't give you pinholes Isopon P40....Brilliant for fixing in shafts, deck beams etc. ....it is a Glassfibre Paste Top Stop...Red topped can or Gold..........A very easy product to sand down even in 12mnths time doesn't pin hole Easy Light ....Same as above nothing to choose between them Degrease model prior to filling rough up where the filler is to be applied and then degrease and tack rag Rubbing down filler 80 Grit Wet/dry used DRY or better still Buy yourself some DA discs Velcro type....YES initially expensive but just give them a shake and they bounce back 180"" Degrease tack rag Prime with FILLER PRIMER Give it a very thin guide coat of satin or Matt black....WHY.....this will show you all your imperfections when you re rub it down with 180 grit Re do above as is Degrease and tack rag Prime with grey primer Matt black it Rub down DRY with 600 Grit paper DRY If you have gone through then repeat as many times as you have to, to give a blemish free surface remembering to degrease and tack rag Paint with top coat to finish colour minimum 3 coats Rub down with 1500 WET/DRY ......WET this time Give another 3 coats of finish colour. One way of rubbing down a hull is with the SCOTCH BRITE pads as I have suggested you ALL go out and buy You can use this product DRY or even WET but NOT with Water but use it with your PANEL wipe this will NOT only degrease it but prep it for primer also, one way of CHEATING especially if it is a plastic kit is to simply rub with red ScotchBrite primer guide coat then rub down
Hi
This is how I go about painting my boats, hope it may be of some help
I buy most of my paint form a paint factor, some PANEL WIPE this is for degreasing your model it is far better than Fairy liquid, Use this between EVERY stage of painting. It will get rid of your greasy hand prints Also go out and buy some Tack rags These are used to get rid of all the dust on your model prior to painting Buy some DA disc off EBay or a decent paint supplier far superior than Wet/Dry paper Get some Red Scotch Brite for rubbing down a hull prior to undercoating....Proving NO filler is required Get some Grey Scotch bite........ideal for NOT losing detail like rivets on a plastic hull or Grp Fillers What is there to use, what is really simple and fast to rub down, what doesn't give you pinholes Isopon P40....Brilliant for fixing in shafts, deck beams etc. ....it is a Glassfibre Paste Top Stop...Red topped can or Gold..........A very easy product to sand down even in 12mnths time doesn't pin hole Easy Light ....Same as above nothing to choose between them Degrease model prior to filling rough up where the filler is to be applied and then degrease and tack rag Rubbing down filler 80 Grit Wet/dry used DRY or better still Buy yourself some DA discs Velcro type....YES initially expensive but just give them a shake and they bounce back 180"" Degrease tack rag Prime with FILLER PRIMER Give it a very thin guide coat of satin or Matt black....WHY.....this will show you all your imperfections when you re rub it down with 180 grit Re do above as is Degrease and tack rag Prime with grey primer Matt black it Rub down DRY with 600 Grit paper DRY If you have gone through then repeat as many times as you have to, to give a blemish free surface remembering to degrease and tack rag Paint with top coat to finish colour minimum 3 coats Rub down with 1500 WET/DRY ......WET this time Give another 3 coats of finish colour. One way of rubbing down a hull is with the SCOTCH BRITE pads as I have suggested you ALL go out and buy You can use this product DRY or even WET but NOT with Water but use it with your PANEL wipe this will NOT only degrease it but prep it for primer also, one way of CHEATING especially if it is a plastic kit is to simply rub with red ScotchBrite primer guide coat then rub down
That's all right, Mr Ryan. My Morse is so rusty, I could be sending him dimensions on Playmate of the Month.
Blackshoe thank you for that tip. I hav built only one boat (plywood kit, Zippkit tug) & i painted it by foam brush using HOME HARDWARE (Canadian chain) self-priming porch & floor paint which is a pearl grey acrylic...$40 per litre. Ive been using that brand & formulation for over 30yr, both outdoors on porches & steps, & also on fullsize stitch-'n-glue utility boats typ. 8-10' long. Hav also used it on indoor basement stairs, its very rugged, lasts years before wear necessitates a fresh coat on top. Used to come in several other colours, but now you hav to get it custom-tinted in the store. Hull red, hull green, etc. The grey looks very military, very utilitarian.
Blackshoe thank you for that tip. I hav built only one boat (plywood kit, Zippkit tug) & i painted it by foam brush using HOME HARDWARE (Canadian chain) self-priming porch & floor paint which is a pearl grey acrylic...$40 per litre. Ive been using that brand & formulation for over 30yr, both outdoors on porches & steps, & also on fullsize stitch-'n-glue utility boats typ. 8-10' long. Hav also used it on indoor basement stairs, its very rugged, lasts years before wear necessitates a fresh coat on top. Used to come in several other colours, but now you hav to get it custom-tinted in the store. Hull red, hull green, etc. The grey looks very military, very utilitarian.
I used Rustoleum but had problems where second coats and other colors on masked areas would wrinkle where Zi would have to re- sand and try again. I tried waiting over two weeks before the second coat with same results. I now use a rattle can spray paint from Home Depot (in the states) called Berr paint. Hi I do my model boats and prewar model trains and had the same problems with Rustoleum. The Berr had a heavy pigmentation and goes on easialy. I do not use Krylon.
I used Rustoleum but had problems where second coats and other colors on masked areas would wrinkle where Zi would have to re- sand and try again. I tried waiting over two weeks before the second coat with same results. I now use a rattle can spray paint from Home Depot (in the states) called Berr paint. Hi I do my model boats and prewar model trains and had the same problems with Rustoleum. The Berr had a heavy pigmentation and goes on easialy. I do not use Krylon.
All of my RC boats have been painted by brush with acrylic samples from Lowes or Home Depot. I like the water cleanup, no smell, and they're tough enough. If a boat gets scratched, I'd touch it up, but the paint is tough enough that so far I haven't had the need.
Another plus is any color can be made from the color cards in the rack. $6 (US) will paint a large tug (Fort Valley) three times with paint left over.
All of the colors can be mixed with each other with no worries.
All of my RC boats have been painted by brush with acrylic samples from Lowes or Home Depot. I like the water cleanup, no smell, and they're tough enough. If a boat gets scratched, I'd touch it up, but the paint is tough enough that so far I haven't had the need.
Another plus is any color can be made from the color cards in the rack. $6 (US) will paint a large tug (Fort Valley) three times with paint left over.
All of the colors can be mixed with each other with no worries.
"Good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment." Will Rogers.
A variety...
For the variety of colors and durability, I use Testors in the small bottles. Testors in the rattle cans are handy for a smoother finish or larger areas when not wanting to use a brush. Also the colors in the Testors spray cans and bottles match very well so one could use both!
I also use the common rattle cans, and go by the colors and finish (flat, semi, and gloss) rather than the brands.
Lastly, I use acrylic, mostly Tamiya. I didn't start with this on my boats but after airbrushing my armor models I will start using these on my boats (above the deck) with a finish coat of clear (or semi, or gloss) as an overcoat. The acrylics are actually proving to be pretty tough, even waterproof after drying. I only use acrylic in my airbrush, not the enamels.
Lew
Florida, USA
Lew
For the variety of colors and durability, I use Testors in the small bottles. Testors in the rattle cans are handy for a smoother finish or larger areas when not wanting to use a brush. Also the colors in the Testors spray cans and bottles match very well so one could use both!
I also use the common rattle cans, and go by the colors and finish (flat, semi, and gloss) rather than the brands.
Lastly, I use acrylic, mostly Tamiya. I didn't start with this on my boats but after airbrushing my armor models I will start using these on my boats (above the deck) with a finish coat of clear (or semi, or gloss) as an overcoat. The acrylics are actually proving to be pretty tough, even waterproof after drying. I only use acrylic in my airbrush, not the enamels.
Lew
Florida, USA
Lew
Lew
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Sorry but I'm old school and still use cellulose, I find it the cheapest to buy in litre tins and apply with full size spray gun and a smaller top filler for the smaller jobs and finally an air brush for detailing.
I suppose it stems from spaying kit cars some years ago
Sorry but I'm old school and still use cellulose, I find it the cheapest to buy in litre tins and apply with full size spray gun and a smaller top filler for the smaller jobs and finally an air brush for detailing.
I suppose it stems from spaying kit cars some years ago
Well, I was going to spray paint my Fairey builds and even bought the Halfords cans. But needing to spray outside I kept missing the window of opportunity and masking would be fiddly.
So in the end I decided to brush paint, as I can do this in the house and during winter, even though brush marks and dust can be a problem. For this I'm using International Paints Toplac Plus which goes on nicely and has a high gloss. I can't get a perfect finish but it's good enough. It's expensive though for say two colours with their respective primer-undercoats and thinners but as I'm painting at least five boats it's not too bad.
Chris
Well, I was going to spray paint my Fairey builds and even bought the Halfords cans. But needing to spray outside I kept missing the window of opportunity and masking would be fiddly.
So in the end I decided to brush paint, as I can do this in the house and during winter, even though brush marks and dust can be a problem. For this I'm using International Paints Toplac Plus which goes on nicely and has a high gloss. I can't get a perfect finish but it's good enough. It's expensive though for say two colours with their respective primer-undercoats and thinners but as I'm painting at least five boats it's not too bad.
I like the Tamiya rattle cans. They are a synthetic lacquer, go on well and dry fast. They ARE a little pricey, so I order from Hobbylinc or use Hobbytown USA if i want to pick up locally. I also have found that the Tamiya acrylic airbrush paints work well, and dry faster if you use lacquer thinner (Mr Hobby) to thin with. I also use a variety of model, craft and household paints, but the Tamiya line is my main go to-consistent every time, even with my limited painting skills.
Cash
I like the Tamiya rattle cans. They are a synthetic lacquer, go on well and dry fast. They ARE a little pricey, so I order from Hobbylinc or use Hobbytown USA if i want to pick up locally. I also have found that the Tamiya acrylic airbrush paints work well, and dry faster if you use lacquer thinner (Mr Hobby) to thin with. I also use a variety of model, craft and household paints, but the Tamiya line is my main go to-consistent every time, even with my limited painting skills.
Cash
For over 30 years I m using the MOTIP sprayable paint in tins.
They have a large range of colours also ral colours( industrial indication of colours)
It’s easy to apply
Good coverage
Quick drying
Easy to apply multiple coats if necessary
Mat- satin and gloss depending on the application you want
For over 30 years I m using the MOTIP sprayable paint in tins.
They have a large range of colours also ral colours( industrial indication of colours)
It’s easy to apply
Good coverage
Quick drying
Easy to apply multiple coats if necessary
Mat- satin and gloss depending on the application you want
Hi Greg
I have used brush applied paint, and spray applied. My preference for paint is oil based although I hear that acrylics are OK. Primer and undercoat from Wilko's (own brand), top coat Wilko's or anything going. Always finish off with several coats of varnish, normally yacht varnish of no specific brand. To get a decent finish I rub down between coats with a fine grade of wet and dry (1200, used wet), and this applies to the varnish as well as all paint coats.
Spray paint - Halfords primer/undercoat in either red or grey are good. Wilko's or Lidl gloss has been OK, with Lidl clear lacquer to finish.
Most boats get bumped whilst on the water or at the waters edge so it helps to protect the paint finish with several coats of varnish.
As you see I am not concerned about using a particular brand.
😉Hope this is of help.
Hi Greg
I have used brush applied paint, and spray applied. My preference for paint is oil based although I hear that acrylics are OK. Primer and undercoat from Wilko's (own brand), top coat Wilko's or anything going. Always finish off with several coats of varnish, normally yacht varnish of no specific brand. To get a decent finish I rub down between coats with a fine grade of wet and dry (1200, used wet), and this applies to the varnish as well as all paint coats.
Spray paint - Halfords primer/undercoat in either red or grey are good. Wilko's or Lidl gloss has been OK, with Lidl clear lacquer to finish.
Most boats get bumped whilst on the water or at the waters edge so it helps to protect the paint finish with several coats of varnish.
As you see I am not concerned about using a particular brand.
😉Hope this is of help.
I've been hand painting the four I'm working on at the moment, mainly as I've a stash of yacht paint and Trago Mills in Newton Abbot were selling Hempel Multicoat for a stupidly cheap price (sadly no longer since they restocked).
The completed Perkasa and the two in build (Crash Tender and RTTL) use the same colour palette of grey/black/white so I can get away with hand painting as the grey and black aren't gloss and I take my time with the white gloss that I'm using on the Eventide.
I've been using thinned down Multicoat in my air brush (with plenty of ventilation and wearing a respirator for the smaller components). I've been using a red oxide primer sprayed on below the waterline, happy with the results
I'll be spraying from now on with the BYMS, planning to use Hycote, mainly because the I can get it cheap from Trago Mills.
I've been hand painting the four I'm working on at the moment, mainly as I've a stash of yacht paint and Trago Mills in Newton Abbot were selling Hempel Multicoat for a stupidly cheap price (sadly no longer since they restocked).
The completed Perkasa and the two in build (Crash Tender and RTTL) use the same colour palette of grey/black/white so I can get away with hand painting as the grey and black aren't gloss and I take my time with the white gloss that I'm using on the Eventide.
I've been using thinned down Multicoat in my air brush (with plenty of ventilation and wearing a respirator for the smaller components). I've been using a red oxide primer sprayed on below the waterline, happy with the results
I'll be spraying from now on with the BYMS, planning to use Hycote, mainly because the I can get it cheap from Trago Mills.
Some more advice please. I am getting near to painting the Police Launch that I am building and would like to know what paint members use for their models. Having built static display models in the past I have used acrylic paint colours but I am assuming that they would not be suitable for RC boats. If anyone can give me some suggestions I would be grateful.
Also, do members hand paint or spray their boats?
Greg 👍
Some more advice please. I am getting near to painting the Police Launch that I am building and would like to know what paint members use for their models. Having built static display models in the past I have used acrylic paint colours but I am assuming that they would not be suitable for RC boats. If anyone can give me some suggestions I would be grateful.
