cjanik001 - thank you for the detailed reply.

I will delve deeper into the Cricut, it does look like a useful machine e.g. for the fiddly wheelhouses and window frames

“Cricut” ( I hate Apple’s autocorrect!)

Steve, I went to my local hobbycraft and had a lesson in using my cricut maker. Found it very useful and helped me .
Cheers Colin.

Crocus has its own download software that runs it. Plenty of online videos on operation.

Good luck😊

So that didn't take long......just bought a cricut 3.
So what software are people using to drive it?

I have to admit I was pushing the limits of the machine by cutting 3/32 basswood. The machine will calculate how many passes are required, and depending upon the clarity of the wood, and hardness, most of the time that numbered was correct. Other times when it finished I had to cut out the remainder with a hobby knife. For that thick of material generally 12 - 15 passes. Time wise about 15 min. This also depends on how complex a cutout and the size of the sheet. Thinner material and balsa wood takes less passes and time.

You cannot sharpen the blade, or at least I haven’t found a way! I built my Princess Loanne using only one deep cut blade. But it probably will need a new one when I start a new project!

Attached is a short video of the cutting speed.

I know that I have mentioned this in the past, but now, more that ever, my 3D printer is an important part of my construction tools. Yes, I know it is not for everyone especially the design software. The actual printing of the parts are not that complicated.

But, to get from the idea or concept of the part(s) that has to be converted into a 3D model. How that is achieved is dependent on what design software you use.

However, if you can find the part(s) already designed in the massive libraries (web sites the have 3D files) one can download the files (best file types are .stl and .obj) run the through the printers "slicer" software, transfer that to the printer and print. Not quite as simple as a few words, but certainly not overly complicated like the design software.

I use my 3D printer (and past printers) to make not only model items for my boats and tanks but household and car items as well.

The photo shows a pretty small winch that is made up of about eight parts plus several copper rods. This is about the limit of my 3D printer which I paid under $400 (US). Could do better if I sent it to a print house like Shapeways.

The USACE Springer I am building has everything above the deck 3D printed. Where this type of part making shines is making multiple same parts, port holes being a good example.

Lew
Florida 😎, USA

How long do these Deep Cutting blades last? Can they be resharpened or is it replacement only? How many passes to get a decent cut in say 1.5mm material?
I presume you are all using the more expensive machines?

I've been using my cricut maker for 4 years now. I have cut up to 1/16th inch thick plasticard and acrylic sheets for windows and various art card, vinyl, 1/32nd inch ply.
Admittedly the thicker materials take multiple cuts even with the deep cut blade.
My only gripe with this machine is it doesn't accept direct self programmed commands.
Otherwise it's a great machine.
Cheers Colin.

I'm using my Cameo 4 fro cutting my Styrene. It scores it very well where I cand bend the pieces to break them out. for thicker sheets 0.040 I don't think it will score deep enough. I have tried it on 0.030 inch but have to do repeat cuts at least twice, which the machines able to do.

I have a Cricut Maker style machine. Cutting thin sheets of material such as vinyl is no problem with the blades that come with the machine and can generally cut in one pass. I have used the deep cutting blade, (20USD) to cut thicker cardboard and thin balsa and bass wood. This operation takes multiple passes with the cutting blade.

I did investigate these a couple of years ago. Cricut seems to be the default machine and there is a model (The "Joy") that is on sale at around £130.
I thought it may be possible to cut a set of thin card templates for bulkheads etc., but it appeared that you needed a deep cut blade and some accessories and with multiple passes to get the deep cut, the speed could be quite slow.
eBay have similar Chinese machines but I have no idea how easy they are to use or how reliable, so I ignored them. Loklik is another brand that seems to have spares available.
You may find one secondhand of course, but in the end I decided I couldn't justify the cost and used a local signwriting shop instead.
I should add that I went on to look at laser cutters and CNC mini-routers before I realised it was all getting out of hand and I went and bought a new pack of fretsaw blades and some scalpel blades instead.
If you have frequent needs for something like this - or you have a partner into crafting and cardmaking, I imagine they are extremely useful.