That is good news Roy.

Very good Roy, I'm happy for you.
I think the seller was convinced by reading the forum messages, he doesn't want a community of naval modelers against him for disappointing Roy, ahahahahah.

Good news I responded nicely to the seller and she agreed to pack the model up for a little extra, so await her info then will get the model picked up by courier.👍👍👍👍👍😊
Happy boy Roy

Shame about that Roy.

You are spot on as regards thin mahogany. I used some for the deck of my Faun build which I'd had for sometime. Came to cut it and it just broke. Gave it a quick soak in water and it was OK. After drying and gluing in place it was fine and the varnish puts some moisture into it.

Chris

My question on whether to purchase a decorative model has been resolved by the seller, as packing up and using a courier was not an option. Shame as the model was very nice but many miles away.
Roy

Having been a long time club member it has often fallen to me and a colleague to clear a fellow modeller's model making tools and where with all out. I always collect the odd sheet of wood usually in part sheet form and put into my stock.

So I have wood, mainly obechi (bass wood) stacked away. In my last completed model I used some of the old obechi and the top surface can be rough and dry. It is worth doing a gentle spray of water to each side and allow to dry naturally and then to lightly sand off the top surface until the wood shows a better surface. If you have a 'thicknesser' machine a lot easier.

The width will decrease a little but can be allowed for in building. However, mahogany and like hardwoods when about 1mm thick they dry out become to subject to splintering in use.

If you have an old kit (typically Billing) with mahogany sheet and printed lines to cut round. Then carefully cut wood sheet to no bigger than A4 size.
Now photocopy the sheets of wood and use the printout to stick onto newer wood and then they can be used to build the kit.

Roy

In UK Halfords has a large range of car paints including a red primer just right for under water part of ships and boats.
When using the colours they dry 'soft' and it is essential that they have the varnish clear spray finish to get hard. This recommended by Halfords.

The gloss paints are less vulnerable to water incursion than the matte colours, so always spray varnish on top.

There are other ranges which work well as long as you can find the colour you want.

As I almost exclusively build in wood I take a lot of care in preparation, it pays to do so. I have a sailing yacht painted (not sprayed) built in 1965 that still has its original finish, just gets cleaned up now and again.

Roy

Guguseli, it's me again . . .
The hull of the stern wheel steamer was a disaster. It was twisted in the longitudinal axis by 7 mm . . . At first I thought of rebuilding it.
But a German shipbuilder (real boats) gave me the tip to fill it with water and empty it a few hours later.
Then I clamped it on the opposite side with 10 mm of overstretching and simply left it to dry for a week.
As I was travelling spontaneously, it was 3 weeks. It didn't do any harm, but when I bought it I was amazed! It had worked.
Now I stretched it flat on my work table and treated it with 3 coats of Eze-Kote and then left it to dry for another week.
Then I painted the outside with black 3 times and with Eze-Kote 3 times
Then nothing happened for weeks until October.
I never thought I would be able to restore a 160cm hull to top condition.
For the BASF hull of the Optimist, however, I will use 2K with flow to reinforce the hull. But until I start, the globe will rotate several times around its own axis . .
Good Night, Your Michel-C the landlubber 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Hey all!
I also use Eze-Kote and have had amazing experiences with it on my Mississippi paddle steamer.
I stored the railing, painted it with white acrylic paint and brushed Eze-Kote on it.
As I had to bend parts of the railing with a radius of 50mm, I held them over boiling water after painting.
The result was that the plywood did not break but could be bent gently in one step.
I then used a 90mm tube for the bending and attached the bent railing to the tube with clamps.
As for the hull of the stern wheel steamer later.
Bb Michel-C.

I use Minwax products to seal the interior and exterior of my models.

Minwax Clear Polycrylic Water-Based Protective Finish Satin, Semi-Satin or Gloss

I looked at Eze-Kote which is much more expensive.

When comparing the two products, they have similar characteristics but also varying pros and cons.

I did a Google search using:
“Eze-kote finishing resin vs polyurethane water cleanup minwax”

______________________________

My models are generally painted after the several coats of clear.

Depending upon the paint used, I will give a couple more final clear coat applications.

The paint I have begun using is an Outdoor Acrylic Paint from “Craftsmart” used on both these models and with a final coat of clear which protects the paint from skuffs.