Thank You for your kind words Alessandro.
😎

As I mentioned, here are some photos of the spirally coiled strings.
As you can see, some have nails and a clear plastic ring.
The clear plastic ring is used to hold the nails in place (the head of the nail remains between the string and the plastic and is thus not visible). The plastic ring will not be visible either.
I already explained their function, but I'll repeat it because someone might be interested and didn't read the previous message.
I have a lot of screws on the deck to secure the removable parts.
These screws are unsightly, so I hid them by covering them with the deck board (a small piece cut out).
The small piece cut out could fly off, so I secure it by holding it in place with the spiral of string (in this case, I didn't glue the spiral; it fits together thanks to the nails).

P.S.
Jumpugly and Chugalone, I'm sorry someone has belittled your advice and the method you showed me.
As for me, I reiterate my thanks and appreciation to you.
With very small scales, the strings are so thin they can't even be held between your fingers, so you were very helpful.
With larger scales, there's no need to even mention it.
In fact, I even liked Chugalone's phase-shifting system for creating buckets. Well done.
I don't consider any question trivial, no topic silly; I think like this: if the topic isn't to my liking, I simply don't intervene, I don't participate, without disturbing others. Unfortunately, however, there are always those who have to intervene with pointless criticism, often driven by envy or acrimony.
Those who say they don't want to intervene and then write tons of messages, only to discover at the last minute that they don't like the topic—this is the real absurdity (perhaps they think any means is fair game to increase their score, who knows?).
I don't care at all and I don't think they're even worthy of a response, but I feel sorry for you. It's better to ignore them and treat these troublemakers like children, which is what they are after all.

Kind of a very simple topic. How to coil a rope? Very much like coiling a real rope, only a lot smaller and using some glue to hold it in place. No brainer, no tooling!

As for what it should look like when done, that's easy as well. Look at photos or drawings of the boat style and period being modeled. Just like everything else. A much more interesting topic would be something like how to correctly model a flag on boat.

I wasn't going to post anything on this silly topic but I am adding some closeup "coiled (and other) rope" photos of my PT61 build to show what I mean.

Lew

Hi Chugalone. You're incredibly skilled at creating tiny parts yourself.
I really admire your attention to detail and how realistic a ship model is.
Thank you for sharing more photos and illustrating the construction steps.
I think it's important to do this (i.e., include lots of photos, both general and detailed, showing the various construction stages until the final product).
This way, your work is useful to both novice and experienced modelers.

I haven't had time to make more skeins and spirals.
The ones I have ready were made using my old method (just by hand).
I'll show you later. Some have a plastic base and nails because I need them to cover the covers that hide the screws. The screws are used to hold the removable deck pieces in place.
I think I'll use the Jumpugly/Chugalone method for the next ones.
In the meantime, thanks again for your suggestions.

Chug - on the stern. Lew

Talking about "small", take a look at the "K-Tubes I made for the sub.
Many SC were fitted with "hydrophones" for detecting underwater noises, with a K-Tube device the SC had a range of 30 miles but other SC had a differente type of devise, I choose this one because is the one that SC 96 had as you can see in this picture.
The K-Tube is tided down to the side of the pilot house.
😎

Nice one Chug👍
As my German mates would say 'Klein aber fein' (small but fine)

😎

“Another small item I reproduced is the sets of fire buckets.
In this photo, you can see two groups of four buckets on each side of the wherry.
In the second photo, there is a different arrangement, with two sets of four buckets stowed beneath the wherry.”
This is what I came up with.
😎

LewZ
Here is a closer picture of the flag, It does have 48 stars like you said.
😎

Chug... that sub chaser looks great. One little detail is the flag should have a 48 star flag. Thanks for sharing the photos. Lew

Thanks for the detailed information, Chugalone.
Your method is identical to the one Jumpugly described, and I think it's simple and effective.
Congratulations on this fantastic model, expertly crafted with extreme skill.
Unfortunately, I have a lot of ropes to arrange and coil, as it's a sailing ship; it takes patience.

Alessandro,

This is the model where I used the coil ropes.
I was commissioned by Model Expo to build it for their showcase—it’s a
Nauticurso Sub Chaser AV-SC96, Scale 1:23.
Dimensions: Length 32½”, Width 7¼”, Height 10½”.

Alessandro:
I want to share my two cents on this topic.
This is how I do my coil ropes.

These are the materials I used to create a coil.
2 ply pieces of 2"x2"
1piece of 1/2" brass tubing for the bottom.
1 piece of 14/32" brass tubing to go into the 1/2".
1 small roll of 1" double face tape.
1 Liquid Stitch by Dritz. Diluted 70/30 water.

This is my version of how I created a coil with my particular rope, although the method can be applied to any thickness.
After making a small turntable with the brass tubes and the square ply. pieces, I placed a piece of double-sided tape on it so the rope would stay in place while I turned the table to form the coil.
Once the coil was finished, I applied liquid stick glue and let it dry for about 10 minutes in the sun. After that, I removed it carefully with a spatula.
It looks a bit intricate but it works for me.
I hope that could do the same for you.
😎

Jump. That is a great little tool. Tx for posting.
👍

On my side of the pond coiling a line is referred to as “ faking” the line. Some refer to it as “flaking” but I believe faking is the original term. In fact the terms are used interchangeably. Makes for a good discussion over an adult beverage! 😎

Great Jumpugly, great method, thanks for your contribution.




And with this simple comment (some might think) I'll increase my score and move up a rank, hahahaha.

A couple of bits of wood, two bits of metal tube, a coffee can top, and some two sided tape and we are off to the world of rope coils.
👍😉😁

Thanks for this information, Bobby. I hope I remember it.

Thanks for the clarification, Doug.
No, this time it wasn't a translation error; I used the wrong term in Italian too. Complete absolution for the translator.
I corrected my mistake in the previous message.
Of course, even in building it, a spiral is created.

Hi All

I always thought the spiraled rope or concentric circles etc was referred to as cheesing the rope. My late dad who was a seaman rigger referred to lines prepared in this way as cheesed.

Bob

Close Doug. Not actual radii but a very long spline.
Lew

Alessandro,
Sorry if I appear pedantic BUT-
Those are not concentric circles but spirals.
Concentric circles do not intersect with each other.
They simply have the same central point, or axis, but different radii.
They are not formed from a continuous line as a spiral is.
Translator cock up?
Ciao, Doug😎

As Jumpugly mentioned, another way to organize the ropes is to roll them into a spiral (as shown in the attached images).
I haven't found any other ways to organize the ropes on the deck, but just to be safe, I'd like to ask experienced modelers (and those who have been on real Tall Ships) if you know of any other methods.

I created a very short video on rope coils hope it uploads OK. It should explain how I do it. I think with a bit of luck you can finish off the coils in different ways.

I have used this jig on a number 72 scale models.

Bob

There's also this variation for closing the coil of rope.
However, visually, at 1:60 scale, it changes little or nothing.

Hi Bobby, sorry for the delay.

I'll try to explain what I mean. If I'm still not clear, please let me know.

So, to wind a real rope, this method is normally used (see figures 1, 2, 3 and 4), with a few small differences.
You can use only your hands, or you can use a fixed point.

In model making, I followed the same method, but there are two variations:
the first involves gradually winding the rope around two fixed points (I used two wooden sticks);
the second involves winding the rope around two fixed points, crossing each turn so as to form a figure eight (see figure 5).

Initially, for ship modeling, I used the figure eight method, crossing the rope. I thought it would hold its shape better this way while waiting for the glue to be applied.
Now I create the skein without crossing it.

However, I've discovered that the crisscross method is also used in real life (I've read about it but have never seen or done it).
In particular, for three-strand ropes, it seems best not to crisscross them, while for braided ropes, it seems best to use a figure-eight method (see image 6).

Sorry, Bobby, it's not your fault, I didn't explain myself well.
I'll try to explain better with the help of a drawing.

Alessandro Thanks for the reply but unsure what you mean by "do you all cross the grays or do you make them linear"

for the flat coiled ropes laid on the decks. I roll them then use painters tape on one side then turn it over and apply either canopy glue or Clear wood workers glue to the other side of the rope let it dry remove tape then glue it to the deck. this way you don't get the hard glue look on the top. you don't need very much glue on the back side just enough to hold it in place.

Excellent Jumpugly, very helpful (as always).

You beat me to it! I actually wanted to show you the other way I know of wrapping ropes on a boat (the ones I've seen in photos and in real life).

The one you showed (basically a concentric circle starting from the center and gradually widening) I've often used on my model.
I do everything by hand; I've never used double-sided tape, but it's a pain in the ass, and (since I glue as I roll) my fingers get stuck in cyanoacrylate.
The hardest part is the beginning, then it gets easier.
For the next rope I roll, I'll try the method you showed me.

Thanks so much, Jumpugly, amazing!

For really nice decorative deck coils this worked like a charm for me. 👍😉

https://www.modelerscentral.com/model-ship-building/how-to-make-deck-rope-coils/?srsltid=AfmBOor3xlxhMgCLaPOIO5a04cTlBOazqat5nhFIlBtHYh4XZB2XqeAl

Yes of course Bobby, very clear, but do you all cross the grays or do you make them linear?

No Youtube channel. But you just coil the line around the two teeth of the jig, tie the coil off and attach it to the rope on the boat. Looks quite effective and you can produce consistent looking coils.

Great, BobbyN! I can't open the video, but I think I understand from the image.
Do you have a YouTube channel?

Hi All

Hope this shows the jig

Hi All

I drew and 3d printed a little jig, in fact it can be scaled to suit. Just wrap the line around until you get the desired thickness. The gap in the teeth allows you to put a half hitch to hold the coil. If anyone is interested I could upload the STL file, but you will have to tell me how I can do this on our forum.

Thank you very much Chum444!

Alessandro, for coils of larger diameter “rope” you can tie them the same as you do with real rope. But for the most part I too use cya. You have to use VERY SMALL drops however. Otherwise they will be stiff & hang incorrectly. Yours are Bella!

Hi Chris, I thought cyanoacrylate was a bit of a basic and unprofessional solution, but I haven't found anything better.
It's comforting to know you're using the same method.

I was going to suggest cyano. Looks like you have cracked it. 👍