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    46" RAF Crash Tender
    by MaggieM πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ ( Recruit)
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    67 Posts 66 Replies 45 Photos 66 Likes
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    RNinMunich
    Fleet Admiral
    πŸ“ 46" RAF Crash Tender
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    Country: πŸ‡©πŸ‡ͺ Germany
    Online: 9 hours ago
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    Hi Elsrickle
    Aha! That's why the dwgs looked so familiar!!πŸ˜πŸ‘
    Cheers, Doug 😎
    Young at heart - slightly older in other places πŸ˜‰ Cheers Doug
    pmdevlin
    Sub-Lieutenant
    πŸ“ 46" RAF Crash Tender
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    Country: πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ United Kingdom
    Online: 13 days ago
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    if you look real close under the tow hook, you can see the planking
    DodgyGeezer
    Midshipman
    πŸ“ 46" RAF Crash Tender
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    Country: πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ United Kingdom
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    It's a shame that these boats have their rudders as a push-fit into holes mounted right on the transom - makes them very hard to adapt for radio control...
    redpmg
    Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class
    πŸ“ 46" RAF Crash Tender
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    Country: πŸ‡ΏπŸ‡¦ South Africa
    Online: 7 minutes ago
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    Thanks Martin . that's a lot of advice - not sure about the heat gun as its a really funny type of plastic - don't think I have ever seen one of these boats without something warped. Great pity as its a really nice model. Will let you know when I try and fix it.
    1
    Martin555
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    πŸ“ 46" RAF Crash Tender
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    Country: πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ United Kingdom
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    Hi Red,
    Just found this on the net.

    There are two approaches you can try for fixing warps in plastic. The first is to simply clamp the parts and adhere them with adhesive. I prefer the liquid styrene cement, which actually fuses or welds the parts as opposed to adding an adhesive to create the bond. Once so fused, they're nearly impossible to separate. Most of your alignment issues can be addressed this way.

    Most warping issues for these models come when you cut it to allow access for your RC components. These are usually long cuts along the mid-line of the boat. It is common for the cut parts to see warping along the length, creating gaps in the seam that are unsightly and hard to address via the first method. For these, the solution is to mechanically force the part straight, then heat the plastic up to its Glass Transition temperature for a short time, then cool it off.

    Polystyrene begins GT between 175-195Β° F (79-91 C) depending on its molecular weight, plasticizers, pigments and fillers. In order to straighten warped polystyrene parts, you need to get the plastic up to that temperature, allow it to settle in the proper shape, and then cool it back down again.

    There are a number of ways to accomplish this. The safest one for small parts is to use hot water. Simply heat up a bowl of water in the microwave to something around 200F, allow it to cool slightly and then dunk your part. Once the plastic has heated up, it should become more malleable and retain whatever shape it's put into. Dunk the part in cool water to lock in the new form and you're done! You can also use your oven, which allows for precise control of temperature in a larger format.

    Most sub hulls are going to be much larger than your bowls or oven, so you're going to need to use something like a hair blow dryer or, ideally, a heat gun. This takes some practice, as it's easy to overheat the parts and get warping and distortion, or even burning if you're not careful. Never focus the heat gun on one section for too long. Keep it moving at all times and use broad strokes so that you're heating up a large area. You'll see the part relax into the proper shape. Once it does, let it cool thoroughly before releasing your clamps and checking alignment. Repeat as often as necessary for a great fit.

    Martin.
    1
    If it looks right it probably is.
    Brianaro
    Petty Officer 1st Class
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    Hello Red
    In the past I’ve found heating plastic suddenly has resulted in flat areas warping or distorting as the area intended is straightened. To get round this I twisted the plastic and held it in correct position with clamps etc and then gradually warmed with a hair dryer which can be moved away if distortion starts to appear
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    Martin555
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    Hi Red,
    This is were the skill comes in. And experimenting it could be a case of hot water on a cloth and work a small area at a time.
    I have done this on a small plastic boat some years ago and with a bit of twisting and allowing it to cool before doing the next bit.
    I know that there are many types of plastic around.
    And as you said in an earlier post about not wanting to bin it if you don't have to.
    If you do decide to try it I would like to know how you get on.

    Martin.
    1
    If it looks right it probably is.
    Elsrickle
    Petty Officer 1st Class
    πŸ“ 46" RAF Crash Tender
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    Country: πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ United Kingdom
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    Hi Doug That’s the ones I got through your help last year when I was renovating the old crash Tender.
    Ian
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    redpmg
    Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class
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    Country: πŸ‡ΏπŸ‡¦ South Africa
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    Maybe poring hot or boiling hot water on it ?

    Hi Martin - problem is the early plastic its made from is very unstable - probably make it worse - dont know if you have ever left a plastic kit on the rear shelf of a car in the sun - warps like mad - a Lancaster looked like a pretzel ! (think I was trying to make an Avro "York" from the kit for the local boy scout troop at the time as they used one to travel to the 53 Jamboree at Sutton Coldfield)
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    Martin555
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    πŸ“ 46" RAF Crash Tender
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    Country: πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ United Kingdom
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    Maybe poring hot or boiling hot water on it ?

    Martin.
    1
    If it looks right it probably is.
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