Hi JB,
I can get Araldite here imported from UK in both forms Quickset and 24Hour in tubes but it comes at a price. A Local Company that sells worldwide Pratley make about 10 different types of epoxy glue some of it is highly specialised you have to hunt for what you want! Pratley has been used by NASA. Building Sea Queen ( Which at the moment is gathering dust) I am using ZAP 30 minute epoxy. The quickset set glues by Pratley and Araldite seem to go brittle.

Re - It's amazing the different glues available round the world.

We have truckloads of Araldite here Ian, made by Selleys NZ. Not sure if you can buy the 2 tube set any more, - now in the twin syringe pack, - different types as well, 5min, crystal clear, super strength (opaque ) We can buy Titebond as well ( sold by professional woodworking suppliers rather than hardware chains) A bit more expensive than PVA.

Interesting glue test vid.

JB

Here is what I had been using, it does not foam up. Yes, if you mist it, the glue harden faster, but with little crystals. I generally did not mist, I just let it harden on its own. There are several types of these glues available locally and some do swell up when the surfaces have been pre- moistened. I used that variety outdoors on my porch posts which proofed satisfactory for about a year before replacing the porch posts with a none wood product. Twenty-five year warranty on the posts not the glue.😊

What we get in SA is Gorilla Glue and is the polyurethane adhesive that foams. They just market it as Gorilla Glue. Funny how glues change the world over! Sika also market Gator Glue which is a direct copy of the Polyurethane Gorilla Glue.

Progress

Thank you. In the meantime, I am continuing planning, and following this site and the other websites. Of course, that leads to a lot of alternative ideas for new projects.🙄😀

Hopefully you can get back to it soon Peejay.

Martin555.

I used slower CA to tack the planks of my Chris Craft to the bulkheads. The further sealing will come before she is sanded, as well as when she is glassed.

Unfortunately, the project has been delayed a couple of years due to giving up workspace to help family members store things while changing homes, and then back surgery that has kept me from cleaning out a new work space. The good news is that the project has remained in place for two years with no evidence of degradation.

Ian, I have used the gorilla foaming glue in the past purposefully to expand into gaps when building model aircraft, but the Gorilla I am using now is a straightforward glue, with and initial fairly short set time and a curing time of 24 hours.
Geoff

It's amazing the different glues available round the world.
I know only one place that keeps good old fashioned Araldite.
Titebond I can't find at all.
Remember using Aerolite which I can't find today.
Many glues are marked waterproof but my advice is read the TDS as most cannot be submerged.

I used Aerodux in the 70s for full sized boats (building and repairing) as in those days it was cheaper and easier to use than the epoxies. Very easy to use and smelled nice too with good gap filling properties. Also used Aerolite which was a good glue and cheaper still. Aerodux is now hard to find and horrendously expensive. If I could buy it easily it would be my choice for all wooden models. Looks nice when you laminate with it as the red glue lines stand out.

I have 3 small boats from the 70s and 80s I've restored, and all of them were built using Aerodux and were still quite solid. Only thing with Aerodux is that it can go brittle with age (more so on an outside area).
JB

The only trouble with Gorilla (and Gator) Glues is they are polyurethane based and fill gaps. If there is no gap they foam out the joint which equals heavy job clean up. Also have handy acetone and use rubber gloves because if it dries on your skin and Murphy's law says it will
( Murphy was an optimist!) it don't come off.😀😀

Like you Ian I used Cascamite in the early 70's when I built a 12 foot sailing dinghy, had to get the mix right and requires a min temperature of 9/50 degrees. At that time I had a friend in the Boat building industry on the Norfolk Broads and he swore by a two part glue, Aerolite 306.
Use Gorilla now and find it excellent for the wooden models I am building.
Geoff.L

There's CA and CA. Whilst I try not to use CA I will admit it has its uses. Decent CA's I find are Roket and ZAP but overall I find ZAP 30 minute epoxy about the best for building. We also get a South African Product here called Pratley Eeze Bond which is also an epoxy but expensive
Funnily enough for wood I use good old fashioned Cascamite

Re - Been using it for about 30 years now! I swear by the stuff!

I'm with you Ed, CA is great if you use the correct type for the job. There are many different types of CA you can use, ie thick for porous or rough surfaces, thin for close fitting surfaces, rubberised for joints which might have slight movement etc. There are cheap CAs and expensive industrial grade CAs. If you see videos of Chinese R/C ARF aircraft manufacturing (they make models for kit companies round the world) you will see them use CA almost exclusively.

I have used CA on all my planes (16) and not one has shed a wing yet😁 The method I use is to do the initial bonding with dabs of thick or thin CA, then run a bead of balsa glue or UHU down each side. This remains slightly flexible and is stronger than the balsa. I also use thick CA dabs with PVA (leaving gaps in the PVA bead for the CA), - in a lot of cases it alleviates the need for clamps and the part is not going to move and set out of position.

CA is brittle by itself when overstressed, but with support from other glues is a quick method of sticking things together. A lot of the cheap epoxies will go brown and decay after a few years and come loose. If I need a quality long lasting joint I use a quality slow setting one like Selleys 'Araldite,' JB Weld or CRC. For non important stuff I use El Cheapo Chinese brands, (some are actually surprisingly good but smell like they have been made from nuclear waste😁

CA is great for hardening edges in balsa or soft woods for sanding or filing,- great for doing portholes or windows, etc- (helps prevent over cutting/filing and seals the edges)

Happy gluing😊 PS, has anyone tried Bondic UV cure adhesive yet ?

JB

" CA!
I swear by the stuff!"
So do I Ed👍
Especially when it sticks my fingers together, or to my coffee mug!🤔😭
😎

I was able to come out to the garage today opening the backdoor and front getting a good breeze. The wearing a 😷 more for dust, but I used the remaining CA to secure some plastic sections. No issues. 🙂

Hello Ron, I hope that you didn't think that my post was a criticism of your boat , it wasn't.
I am currently 3d printing a 1/40th submarine. I started by printing in PLA then realised that the only thing that would glue the bits together was CA. Being a submarine it was highly likely that the sub would come apart no matter how hard I tried to waterproof it. I am now printing in ABS which can be glued with solvents like acetone. What is the plastic that you are trying to glue?
If the part is big enough, and it is convenient, have you thought of embedding a small bolt into the plastic and bolting it to the deck?
keep up the good work and
best wishes Tim

Hi Ron,

Sorry, to hear your sensitivity to CA!

I swear by the stuff!

Been using it for about 30 years now!

Your boat is coming along nicely!

And the tow bitt looks great!

Regards, Ed

Totally agree, CA is an emergency adhesive that can be used until the correct repair can be done, there may be some applications where its suitable but boat build isn't one of them, in my opinion

CA is one of the worst adhesives!
Good old fashioned epoxy works great!
The longer the curing time the better it is👍👍

Hello Ron, with regards to your problems with superglue. it is one of those strange quirks that whilst moisture is needed for CA to polymerise, water does actually make a CA joint fail. So a worst scenario would be your boat coming apart if it was in the water for any length of time. Looking at a "knowledge" website, CA is described as water resistant not waterproof. There may be a water tolerant CA out there but I don't know. I never use CA on a boat.
In one of the Simpson's episodes, Bart glues a tap to his head and it is only when the doctor makes him sweat with worry that they can remove the tap.
Best wishes Tim

Yes that is what my thinking is, though I have not seen it yet.

Coming on well, Nice bollard, are you going to drill down the uprights to add the strengthening.
Cheers Colin.

wouid a mask, like one used for spraying no help they are only cheap
brian

I see that you are using a mix of materials, card, plastic and wood and I can see why CA is useful. There used to be available an odourless CA I don.t know if it is still around. Like you I suffer with Ca and am trying to avoid it, am building wooden boats anyway so only use it for other materials. Have googled Odourless CA Look for --- AD-46 Roket Odourless cyanoacrylate adhesive Super Glue DELUXE MATERIALS. On amazon in UK but try looking in your native land.
Best wishes Geoff.L

Hi Ron,

She is coming along nicely.
Your friend has done a good job on the towing bollard.

You should put all your progress in a build log.

Martin555.

CA isn't my favourite choice either as it goes brittle.