First time in the water for my 1/48 scratch built model of MV Overchurch Mersey Ferry. No extra ballast required and she responded well to the transmitter.
{"text":"First time in the water for my 1/48 scratch built model of MV Overchurch Mersey Ferry. No extra ballast required and she responded well to the transmitter.","subject":"MV Overchurch Sea Trials","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXrRJerFNXw"}
First time in the water for my 1/48 scratch built model of MV Overchurch Mersey Ferry. No extra ballast required and she responded well to the transmitter.
Hi David,
Nice model, good that she doesn't need any ballast, presumably it's because she is relatively beamy. You are lucky to have somewhere to sail her, there's nowhere open around me.
Nerys
Hi David,
Nice model, good that she doesn't need any ballast, presumably it's because she is relatively beamy. You are lucky to have somewhere to sail her, there's nowhere open around me.
Nerys
Just the stern seating and then she is ready for her sea trials
{"text":"Just the stern seating and then she is ready for her sea trials","subject":"MV Overchurch","media":[{"id":"161616812330","name":"161616812330","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/161616812330/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/161616812330/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
Finally got a good day to try the new brushless motor. Boat goes 100% better now (if a bit noisier) 3s 25c 2200mAh liPo got a bit too hot, so probably need to up the C rate to 40 to keep it cooler (maybe install a fan as it's closed under the seat) It's pushing a 6lb boat with a 26mm jet with a 3000kV brushless so it has an excuse to get hot, (only got down to 3.7V/cell after that run, so not too bad). Runs with a more scale look now which is what I wanted. Took a bit of experimenting, but got there in the end. Thermostatic cooling fans for the motor worked well, and within 10 mins the motor was cool. Only used around 2/3 throttle so as not to stress the coupling too much (you can hear it protest a few times, - silicone tube slips slightly making it squeal)- automatic rev limiter😁
Sorry, vid is blurry again ☹️ (original's fine -HD) but something happens when it goes through my movie editor then to YT. Keep procrastinating about getting a better camera (or maybe it's just the editor. - More experimenting, this is getting tedious😐
{"text":"Finally got a good day to try the new brushless motor. Boat goes 100% better now (if a bit noisier) 3s 25c 2200mAh liPo got a bit too hot, so probably need to up the C rate to 40 to keep it cooler (maybe install a fan as it's closed under the seat) It's pushing a 6lb boat with a 26mm jet with a 3000kV brushless so it has an excuse to get hot, (only got down to 3.7V/cell after that run, so not too bad). Runs with a more scale look now which is what I wanted. Took a bit of experimenting, but got there in the end. Thermostatic cooling fans for the motor worked well, and within 10 mins the motor was cool. Only used around 2/3 throttle so as not to stress the coupling too much (you can hear it protest a few times, - silicone tube slips slightly making it squeal)- automatic rev limiter\ud83d\ude01\n\nSorry, vid is blurry again \u2639\ufe0f (original's fine -HD) but something happens when it goes through my movie editor then to YT. Keep procrastinating about getting a better camera (or maybe it's just the editor. - More experimenting, this is getting tedious\ud83d\ude10","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, MOTOR MODS","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwOX3-3YM7Q"}
Finally got a good day to try the new brushless motor. Boat goes 100% better now (if a bit noisier) 3s 25c 2200mAh liPo got a bit too hot, so probably need to up the C rate to 40 to keep it cooler (maybe install a fan as it's closed under the seat) It's pushing a 6lb boat with a 26mm jet with a 3000kV brushless so it has an excuse to get hot, (only got down to 3.7V/cell after that run, so not too bad). Runs with a more scale look now which is what I wanted. Took a bit of experimenting, but got there in the end. Thermostatic cooling fans for the motor worked well, and within 10 mins the motor was cool. Only used around 2/3 throttle so as not to stress the coupling too much (you can hear it protest a few times, - silicone tube slips slightly making it squeal)- automatic rev limiter😁
Sorry, vid is blurry again ☹️ (original's fine -HD) but something happens when it goes through my movie editor then to YT. Keep procrastinating about getting a better camera (or maybe it's just the editor. - More experimenting, this is getting tedious😐
Hi Ron, haven't spent a huge amount due to the fact that all the electrical bits are very cheap ($1 ea for a voltage reg, $8-12 for a pump, $30 ea for a motor (bought 2 as the first was not fast enough) and jet unit, $15 for the ESC, a few JST plugs and wire, $3 smoke pen, few lengths of silicone tube etc, plus balsa and f/glass, -probably not a lot more than NZ $200. A lot of things you buy of course like resin and paint, usually have to be bought in bigger quantities than you would use on one model, and may be used on other projects, so it's hard to work out an exact cost. I think the hull was the most expensive part, due to the cost of balsa and resin.
Mostly a lot of time, (hate to work out the labour cost on any model at going rates,- probably in the thousands)!
JB
Hi Ron, haven't spent a huge amount due to the fact that all the electrical bits are very cheap ($1 ea for a voltage reg, $8-12 for a pump, $30 ea for a motor (bought 2 as the first was not fast enough) and jet unit, $15 for the ESC, a few JST plugs and wire, $3 smoke pen, few lengths of silicone tube etc, plus balsa and f/glass, -probably not a lot more than NZ $200. A lot of things you buy of course like resin and paint, usually have to be bought in bigger quantities than you would use on one model, and may be used on other projects, so it's hard to work out an exact cost. I think the hull was the most expensive part, due to the cost of balsa and resin.
Mostly a lot of time, (hate to work out the labour cost on any model at going rates,- probably in the thousands)!
JB
Fitted a new bottom skin fitting for the water pump pickup(air/water/exhaust smoke system) - removing the pickup from the jet, as flow stopped when the jet stopped. Fitted a new transom skin fitting (RH side transom) for the ESC cooler exit, and took the water from the jet pickup for the ESC cooler. Everything seems to work well now, with the ESC water flow increasing with throttle. Now for a test on a decent day, (has to start with the rain and wind now, doesn't it?☹️)
Set-up pics in blog,
{"text":"Fitted a new bottom skin fitting for the water pump pickup(air/water/exhaust smoke system) - removing the pickup from the jet, as flow stopped when the jet stopped. Fitted a new transom skin fitting (RH side transom) for the ESC cooler exit, and took the water from the jet pickup for the ESC cooler. Everything seems to work well now, with the ESC water flow increasing with throttle. Now for a test on a decent day, (has to start with the rain and wind now, doesn't it?\u2639\ufe0f)\n\nSet-up pics in blog,","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, JET. MOTOR COOLING MODS","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpXR0zvId7w"}
Fitted a new bottom skin fitting for the water pump pickup(air/water/exhaust smoke system) - removing the pickup from the jet, as flow stopped when the jet stopped. Fitted a new transom skin fitting (RH side transom) for the ESC cooler exit, and took the water from the jet pickup for the ESC cooler. Everything seems to work well now, with the ESC water flow increasing with throttle. Now for a test on a decent day, (has to start with the rain and wind now, doesn't it?☹️)
Set the new Surpass 3000KV 36 diam finned in-runner up in the boat, and did a tank test. Lots more power than the HV brushed 1200kv 550, but with higher idle. Re-did the reinforced silicone coupling and fitted a small collar to the inner end of the motor shaft to hold the tube from moving forward against the motor, as with the extra torque of the in-runner, it was trying to twist the tube off the shafts. Seems to be hanging in there static which is a promising sign. Once running, the load will come off which should help.
Runs full at around 4A and the battery holds at around 3.8v/ cell )alarm is set at 3.6 for safety, (as a sort of rev limiter) performance should improve a bit now. Have to wait till tomorrow as the restrictions end at 6am Sunday, (then have to hope for good weather for the test) The prop in the jet is a 28mm 3 blade racing prop which I modified to fit. Don't think I'm going to get much more out of the jet unit without it exploding😁, (it's only plastic I think, not GRP), - might have to buy a back-up and fit it with better quality bearings etc. If the jet was in the usual 'plastic' 24" toys it would be a rocket, but it's pushing 6lbs which is a challenge😀
Note the police chase outside in the background😁- always action around here, lots of hoons in cars😁
{"text":"Set the new Surpass 3000KV 36 diam finned in-runner up in the boat, and did a tank test. Lots more power than the HV brushed 1200kv 550, but with higher idle. Re-did the reinforced silicone coupling and fitted a small collar to the inner end of the motor shaft to hold the tube from moving forward against the motor, as with the extra torque of the in-runner, it was trying to twist the tube off the shafts. Seems to be hanging in there static which is a promising sign. Once running, the load will come off which should help. \n\nRuns full at around 4A and the battery holds at around 3.8v/ cell )alarm is set at 3.6 for safety, (as a sort of rev limiter) performance should improve a bit now. Have to wait till tomorrow as the restrictions end at 6am Sunday, (then have to hope for good weather for the test) The prop in the jet is a 28mm 3 blade racing prop which I modified to fit. Don't think I'm going to get much more out of the jet unit without it exploding\ud83d\ude01, (it's only plastic I think, not GRP), - might have to buy a back-up and fit it with better quality bearings etc. If the jet was in the usual 'plastic' 24\" toys it would be a rocket, but it's pushing 6lbs which is a challenge\ud83d\ude00\n\nNote the police chase outside in the background\ud83d\ude01- always action around here, lots of hoons in cars\ud83d\ude01","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE JET, MOTOR MODS","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wl8aFc5vTzs"}
Set the new Surpass 3000KV 36 diam finned in-runner up in the boat, and did a tank test. Lots more power than the HV brushed 1200kv 550, but with higher idle. Re-did the reinforced silicone coupling and fitted a small collar to the inner end of the motor shaft to hold the tube from moving forward against the motor, as with the extra torque of the in-runner, it was trying to twist the tube off the shafts. Seems to be hanging in there static which is a promising sign. Once running, the load will come off which should help.
Runs full at around 4A and the battery holds at around 3.8v/ cell )alarm is set at 3.6 for safety, (as a sort of rev limiter) performance should improve a bit now. Have to wait till tomorrow as the restrictions end at 6am Sunday, (then have to hope for good weather for the test) The prop in the jet is a 28mm 3 blade racing prop which I modified to fit. Don't think I'm going to get much more out of the jet unit without it exploding😁, (it's only plastic I think, not GRP), - might have to buy a back-up and fit it with better quality bearings etc. If the jet was in the usual 'plastic' 24" toys it would be a rocket, but it's pushing 6lbs which is a challenge😀
Note the police chase outside in the background😁- always action around here, lots of hoons in cars😁
My lockdown project MV Overchurch (Mersey Ferry) 1/48 scale scratch built, radio controlled. Still a bit of work needed to finish her
{"text":"My lockdown project MV Overchurch (Mersey Ferry) 1/48 scale scratch built, radio controlled. Still a bit of work needed to finish her","subject":"MV Overchurch","media":[{"id":"161464762833","name":"161464762833","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/161464762833/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/161464762833/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"},{"id":"161464762964","name":"161464762964","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/161464762964/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/161464762964/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"},{"id":"161464762911","name":"161464762911","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/161464762911/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/161464762911/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
I trial fitted a thermal switch to the fans in the dummy motor, which is mounted on the 540 motor. It starts the dual fans at 30deg C and switches off at around 20deg C. Bit hard to hear in the vid (plus the YT transfer removed the middle of the vid, -there was a gap before I put the soldering iron on again,- and at the end don't know why it does this, - doesn't like the format I think😠) Anyhoo, not doing it 3 times! (clipped the end 10 secs off the previous try as well😠)
Fan switch is powered at 8v via a small voltage reg from the main battery (3s 2200 20c) and works pretty well. All fully hortomatic like😊
{"text":"I trial fitted a thermal switch to the fans in the dummy motor, which is mounted on the 540 motor. It starts the dual fans at 30deg C and switches off at around 20deg C. Bit hard to hear in the vid (plus the YT transfer removed the middle of the vid, -there was a gap before I put the soldering iron on again,- and at the end don't know why it does this, - doesn't like the format I think\ud83d\ude20) Anyhoo, not doing it 3 times! (clipped the end 10 secs off the previous try as well\ud83d\ude20)\n\nFan switch is powered at 8v via a small voltage reg from the main battery (3s 2200 20c) and works pretty well. All fully hortomatic like\ud83d\ude0a","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, THERMAL FAN SWITCH","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HarIhE3apA"}
I trial fitted a thermal switch to the fans in the dummy motor, which is mounted on the 540 motor. It starts the dual fans at 30deg C and switches off at around 20deg C. Bit hard to hear in the vid (plus the YT transfer removed the middle of the vid, -there was a gap before I put the soldering iron on again,- and at the end don't know why it does this, - doesn't like the format I think😠) Anyhoo, not doing it 3 times! (clipped the end 10 secs off the previous try as well😠)
Fan switch is powered at 8v via a small voltage reg from the main battery (3s 2200 20c) and works pretty well. All fully hortomatic like😊
More changes, (not again you say😐) this time the original nozzle was re fitted, as I found that the very clever improvement I made, (a flasher, smaller, better fitting brass one), wasn't so clever after all (can't be brilliant all the time😁) and was restricting the flow. The performance was quite a bit better today (still not startling) and it seems obvious now that MORE POWER will be the next step (have a higher KV, 35 sized brushless coming on the sampan to try).
Had a chat with a long time expat UKer (ex British army) at the pond today, and he mentioned that he has an Aerokits fireboat 'kit' still in the box he hasn't started, (you might be able to hear the conversation) and that he was modelling in the 60s in the UK, running diesels in his boats. He was sailing a Kyosho Seawind today (as was the other guy),- and they look like a nice little yacht, and sail well.
{"text":"More changes, (not again you say\ud83d\ude10) this time the original nozzle was re fitted, as I found that the very clever improvement I made, (a flasher, smaller, better fitting brass one), wasn't so clever after all (can't be brilliant all the time\ud83d\ude01) and was restricting the flow. The performance was quite a bit better today (still not startling) and it seems obvious now that MORE POWER will be the next step (have a higher KV, 35 sized brushless coming on the sampan to try).\n\nHad a chat with a long time expat UKer (ex British army) at the pond today, and he mentioned that he has an Aerokits fireboat 'kit' still in the box he hasn't started, (you might be able to hear the conversation) and that he was modelling in the 60s in the UK, running diesels in his boats. He was sailing a Kyosho Seawind today (as was the other guy),- and they look like a nice little yacht, and sail well.","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, JET MODS","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLhD2Ii2Bd0"}
More changes, (not again you say😐) this time the original nozzle was re fitted, as I found that the very clever improvement I made, (a flasher, smaller, better fitting brass one), wasn't so clever after all (can't be brilliant all the time😁) and was restricting the flow. The performance was quite a bit better today (still not startling) and it seems obvious now that MORE POWER will be the next step (have a higher KV, 35 sized brushless coming on the sampan to try).
Had a chat with a long time expat UKer (ex British army) at the pond today, and he mentioned that he has an Aerokits fireboat 'kit' still in the box he hasn't started, (you might be able to hear the conversation) and that he was modelling in the 60s in the UK, running diesels in his boats. He was sailing a Kyosho Seawind today (as was the other guy),- and they look like a nice little yacht, and sail well.
I decided to risk a salt water trial, as there is no place I can think of with fresh water and a smooth beach or ramp which doesn't involve a 100 mile round trip (most beaches where I am are ocean beaches and others are soft sand/shell. The only lake I can think of is 112km away and I'm not THAT keen. Launching went ok but retrieval was another matter, not helped by an 8mph side wind (looks calm but is windy) Had a number of goes and discovered a few things which need changing, (extra front guide posts and rollers either end of the pads) The rubber resting pads stick like glue so I'll have to make some pop up rollers at the ends.
The pads hold the boat slightly above the centre rollers to avoid damage and stop it sliding off while shifting it. New front guide posts are needed as the boat only draws about 30mm and goes right over the trailer with it underwater 😮(no prop or rudder sticking out,) so it might help locate it when coming in. Jeep had truckloads of power (just fitted a new even lower geared -geared motor -1000rpm/min @ 12v), but unfortunately being only 2x2 (not 4x4) and being half the weight of the boat/trailer combo it couldn't get a grip in the mud, so needed a bit of assistance, (as did the boat getting onto the trailer). Cut out most of the vid with the boat missing the trailer about 10 times, but scored a direct hit once😊. Heaps of fun trying and heaps of washing and CRC when I got home! Going to need some new bearings at some stage, - the ones in it are rubbish and have only lasted for about a few hours running, noisy as anything now, even with gallons of oil. Stainless NMB ones next if I don't change the jet to something else, (another thought on propulsion happening)💡
{"text":"I decided to risk a salt water trial, as there is no place I can think of with fresh water and a smooth beach or ramp which doesn't involve a 100 mile round trip (most beaches where I am are ocean beaches and others are soft sand/shell. The only lake I can think of is 112km away and I'm not THAT keen. Launching went ok but retrieval was another matter, not helped by an 8mph side wind (looks calm but is windy) Had a number of goes and discovered a few things which need changing, (extra front guide posts and rollers either end of the pads) The rubber resting pads stick like glue so I'll have to make some pop up rollers at the ends.\n\n The pads hold the boat slightly above the centre rollers to avoid damage and stop it sliding off while shifting it. New front guide posts are needed as the boat only draws about 30mm and goes right over the trailer with it underwater \ud83d\ude2e(no prop or rudder sticking out,) so it might help locate it when coming in. Jeep had truckloads of power (just fitted a new even lower geared -geared motor -1000rpm/min @ 12v), but unfortunately being only 2x2 (not 4x4) and being half the weight of the boat/trailer combo it couldn't get a grip in the mud, so needed a bit of assistance, (as did the boat getting onto the trailer). Cut out most of the vid with the boat missing the trailer about 10 times, but scored a direct hit once\ud83d\ude0a. Heaps of fun trying and heaps of washing and CRC when I got home! Going to need some new bearings at some stage, - the ones in it are rubbish and have only lasted for about a few hours running, noisy as anything now, even with gallons of oil. Stainless NMB ones next if I don't change the jet to something else, (another thought on propulsion happening)\ud83d\udca1","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, FIRST CRACK AT TRAILER LAUNCHING.","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9O-XUETb1c"}
HARTLEY FLARELINE, FIRST CRACK AT TRAILER LAUNCHING.
I decided to risk a salt water trial, as there is no place I can think of with fresh water and a smooth beach or ramp which doesn't involve a 100 mile round trip (most beaches where I am are ocean beaches and others are soft sand/shell. The only lake I can think of is 112km away and I'm not THAT keen. Launching went ok but retrieval was another matter, not helped by an 8mph side wind (looks calm but is windy) Had a number of goes and discovered a few things which need changing, (extra front guide posts and rollers either end of the pads) The rubber resting pads stick like glue so I'll have to make some pop up rollers at the ends.
The pads hold the boat slightly above the centre rollers to avoid damage and stop it sliding off while shifting it. New front guide posts are needed as the boat only draws about 30mm and goes right over the trailer with it underwater 😮(no prop or rudder sticking out,) so it might help locate it when coming in. Jeep had truckloads of power (just fitted a new even lower geared -geared motor -1000rpm/min @ 12v), but unfortunately being only 2x2 (not 4x4) and being half the weight of the boat/trailer combo it couldn't get a grip in the mud, so needed a bit of assistance, (as did the boat getting onto the trailer). Cut out most of the vid with the boat missing the trailer about 10 times, but scored a direct hit once😊. Heaps of fun trying and heaps of washing and CRC when I got home! Going to need some new bearings at some stage, - the ones in it are rubbish and have only lasted for about a few hours running, noisy as anything now, even with gallons of oil. Stainless NMB ones next if I don't change the jet to something else, (another thought on propulsion happening)💡
Hi JB - Martins eBay one looks like the place to start - add metal diffs and a good body - away you go .
Was thinking its a pity you are stuck with two transmitters - be nice to only use one like the old Futaba/Graupner F14 set they used for the German Rescue & Daughter boats..........
Hi JB - Martins eBay one looks like the place to start - add metal diffs and a good body - away you go .
Was thinking its a pity you are stuck with two transmitters - be nice to only use one like the old Futaba/Graupner F14 set they used for the German Rescue & Daughter boats..........
Hi Peter, I could probably drive the boat on the right stick, and the truck on the left stick of the 9x TX,- I'd just have to sort out the smoke/air/water pump starting, which at present uses the left stick moved right and left to start/stop. The smoke etc doesn't run all the time, (just for starting as a display thing) and can be turned off at any time with Grahams clever little control board. It's not too much of a problem really though,- if I was better organised, I could probably hang one over each shoulder (or clamp them back to back)😁
JB
Hi Peter, I could probably drive the boat on the right stick, and the truck on the left stick of the 9x TX,- I'd just have to sort out the smoke/air/water pump starting, which at present uses the left stick moved right and left to start/stop. The smoke etc doesn't run all the time, (just for starting as a display thing) and can be turned off at any time with Grahams clever little control board. It's not too much of a problem really though,- if I was better organised, I could probably hang one over each shoulder (or clamp them back to back)😁
JB
Tested the new reversing bucket, and it has improved reverse power quite a bit (actually was backing into a strong wind). Bit hard to gauge the reverse steering as there was a 10-15mph wind blowing the boat all over the place, (looks calm but wind funnels through the area from either end at times). Performance hasn't changed with the new grille unfortunately, but the flow looks slightly better. I noticed the reduced brass nozzle I had made was creating a small amount of back pressure, so have re-fitted the original oversized plastic nozzle for the next test.
{"text":"Tested the new reversing bucket, and it has improved reverse power quite a bit (actually was backing into a strong wind). Bit hard to gauge the reverse steering as there was a 10-15mph wind blowing the boat all over the place, (looks calm but wind funnels through the area from either end at times). Performance hasn't changed with the new grille unfortunately, but the flow looks slightly better. I noticed the reduced brass nozzle I had made was creating a small amount of back pressure, so have re-fitted the original oversized plastic nozzle for the next test.","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, JET MODS 2","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_DteSN2K6k"}
Tested the new reversing bucket, and it has improved reverse power quite a bit (actually was backing into a strong wind). Bit hard to gauge the reverse steering as there was a 10-15mph wind blowing the boat all over the place, (looks calm but wind funnels through the area from either end at times). Performance hasn't changed with the new grille unfortunately, but the flow looks slightly better. I noticed the reduced brass nozzle I had made was creating a small amount of back pressure, so have re-fitted the original oversized plastic nozzle for the next test.
I purchased a small BT player which has a number of features including recording. It can output using BT to a BT speaker, so I recorded an engine sound (Detroit 4-53 for the seaplane tender) I found, and copied it a number of times using the player and the vid on the computer (paused the recording, ran the video back, started recording again, etc etc) worked reasonably well. Very hard to find a sound which is continuous for a decent length of time, especially sounds of older engines which may not exist or are in museums. Used the BT feature to send the sound to a small BT speaker sitting in the boat.
Now I need to find out how to get the sound to accelerate and somehow get it into my 'GT Power' engine sound unit files, (the sounds on that are in lots of small WAV files linked to the TX throttle movement (I think they are on an SD card and they just loop where you stop the throttle, and advance or retard to the next file as you move it) A bit of investigation is in order.😀
{"text":"I purchased a small BT player which has a number of features including recording. It can output using BT to a BT speaker, so I recorded an engine sound (Detroit 4-53 for the seaplane tender) I found, and copied it a number of times using the player and the vid on the computer (paused the recording, ran the video back, started recording again, etc etc) worked reasonably well. Very hard to find a sound which is continuous for a decent length of time, especially sounds of older engines which may not exist or are in museums. Used the BT feature to send the sound to a small BT speaker sitting in the boat.\n\nNow I need to find out how to get the sound to accelerate and somehow get it into my 'GT Power' engine sound unit files, (the sounds on that are in lots of small WAV files linked to the TX throttle movement (I think they are on an SD card and they just loop where you stop the throttle, and advance or retard to the next file as you move it) A bit of investigation is in order.\ud83d\ude00","subject":"Trying a method of producing correct engine sound using BT for the seaplane tender.","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vP9nklAp4zU"}
Trying a method of producing correct engine sound using BT for the seaplane tender.
I purchased a small BT player which has a number of features including recording. It can output using BT to a BT speaker, so I recorded an engine sound (Detroit 4-53 for the seaplane tender) I found, and copied it a number of times using the player and the vid on the computer (paused the recording, ran the video back, started recording again, etc etc) worked reasonably well. Very hard to find a sound which is continuous for a decent length of time, especially sounds of older engines which may not exist or are in museums. Used the BT feature to send the sound to a small BT speaker sitting in the boat.
Now I need to find out how to get the sound to accelerate and somehow get it into my 'GT Power' engine sound unit files, (the sounds on that are in lots of small WAV files linked to the TX throttle movement (I think they are on an SD card and they just loop where you stop the throttle, and advance or retard to the next file as you move it) A bit of investigation is in order.😀
Hi Peter, the new little BT player can actually record sounds, then you can play them straight to the BT speaker which is quite cool. I can see having a lot of fun with this😁. Re the bicycle spoke idea, you could link a geared motor to run with your main motor to get the correct lower and top end 'revs',
JB
Hi Peter, the new little BT player can actually record sounds, then you can play them straight to the BT speaker which is quite cool. I can see having a lot of fun with this😁. Re the bicycle spoke idea, you could link a geared motor to run with your main motor to get the correct lower and top end 'revs',
JB
Hi Peejay, I have a number of GT Power sound units and a couple are the sound and light versions for cars, (stop/tail lights, indicators, headlights) which have 50+ sounds, from formula 1 cars to diesels (but not much I can use) and the also have provision to select a horn. Haven't tried any of that stuff yet as not needed on the boat, (could probably use the horn) - hence I have a bunch of LEDs (red, white. orange) which plug into the unit still sitting in the boxes, waiting for the right project. Was going to use some for dash indicators etc but couldn't be bothered with all the extra wires!
JB
Hi Peejay, I have a number of GT Power sound units and a couple are the sound and light versions for cars, (stop/tail lights, indicators, headlights) which have 50+ sounds, from formula 1 cars to diesels (but not much I can use) and the also have provision to select a horn. Haven't tried any of that stuff yet as not needed on the boat, (could probably use the horn) - hence I have a bunch of LEDs (red, white. orange) which plug into the unit still sitting in the boxes, waiting for the right project. Was going to use some for dash indicators etc but couldn't be bothered with all the extra wires!
JB
Just finishing up a Chesapeake Bay "flattie" skiff. The bottom flat and is cross planked Here is the video fo the buildhttps://youtu.be/gdeQWLIZjUY
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Nice model, good that she doesn't need any ballast, presumably it's because she is relatively beamy. You are lucky to have somewhere to sail her, there's nowhere open around me.
Nerys
JB