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    Lyle
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    Member No.#126
    Registered๐Ÿ“…1st May 2008
    Last Online๐Ÿ“…11th Mar 2019
    City๐Ÿ“mount warrigal
    Country๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡บAustralia
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    Fire Boat
    My Model is some 20 to 25 or more years young & wore out two .35 glo motors over the years & only has a 1/8 inch only steel, drive shaft which I recently replaced & always used a leather washer (no metal noise) between the drive plates as modelled from the old 'Taplin Twin' type (never torn) & I updated to a SC .40 Glo motor not for speed but just as a plodder, hand starts with chord are easy & if you use electric starter loosen the glow plug in the thread when starting and it WILL fire & run at idle & disconnect glo lead and screw in plug and take to water etc. MY model actually weighs some 20 to 22 pounds.(I could not delete the 176 ounces in the table above) & exhausts from the factory muffler into a tin can resonator & is super quiet out the stern & no nitro & water pipe is wrapped around muffler which in cooling takes away noise energy. Lyle (Motor: Sc .40 r/c & I/C motor (quiet)) (ESC: Sanwa) (10/10)
    Recent Posts
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    6 months ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    I suggest you go to one of my old reports on my 48 inch Crash boat by Lyle G. The issue is most likely t5hat asn it is a MODEL it needs some extra support in full size water . A model thus NEEDS the advantage of planing strakes at the vertical hull and lower hull joint as it is a "Hard Chine design " and you may need to widen with an extra strake WIDTH though it can be thinned in its vertical configuration as it is blend into the forward hull skin. The wider chine is the secret of the MGB's Torpedo Boats the Elco's and the Higgins and the BPBoat design . Though I live in the colony of Oz I have the British Power boat 41 foot 6 inch model at 48 inches , the Vosper Fast patrol boat , the Range Safety Launch , The BPB co Whaleback at 36 inches and the Black Maurader and even the Sea Queen and ALL I/Combustion powered and all over 15 to 20 years young and ALL as well as the Keilcraft 48 inch Cras Boat all all all have this trick and all get up on the plane as the "Brave class" with its Proteus engineer was still a planing Hard Chine hull and as such it is the hull chine strakes that are so essential to the design originated by was it Georga Selman ? and Hubert Scott Payne ?. Oldies are goodies and the masters of old need to be never forgotten for their skills. Regards Lyle and best construction wishes for modifications.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ The Vosper 46โ€ RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works
    1 year ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Dear Modellers and builders of the Vintage Model Works kit series. You will find my earlier pictures and various writings on the original earlier postings by me in OZ of my still some 30/plus years Crash Boat in which I wore out several I/C motors and my girl still runs in Salt Water at the local LAKE ILLAWARRA in New South Wales and you are somewhat fortunate with ready made fittings. I did not ever know of the "page" ( wish I had a copy ) on your wall of the rear well of fire hose details and fittings , wow what a bonus, as a colonial had several years till Peter Dimberline and I had contact and he helped me to authenticate my vessel. The ESSENTIAL secret of the Crash Boat is the spray rails. So many look toy in the videos and TOOOOOOO fast . The spray rails are doubled at width protruding from the hull and lesser at the point of "rise of the wood " towards the upper bow point. The depth is not too critical at a bit of about an eighth of an inch thickness or a bit thinner for the whole length as you do not want to see a "thick log ", rather again it is the width rather than depth. I know I have written on this before on this webb site in the past. The turns thus on the go become when starting on and STAY more on the go are more flatter rather like a full sized hull which has a planing/ flatter hull turn to the flatness of the water than a typical poorly behaving model boat hull which invariably heels TOOOO much and somewhat digging in , (in turns). The HARD CHINE hull design was meant to not only rise to a comfortable plane attitude but ALSO to turn without that annoying behaviour of "digging in" when it should still perform and exhibit that hard chine design attitude when in a turn . "Digging in" equals water resistance AGAINST the hull and loss of performance and loss of plane attitude and against wave resistance when the hull designers team is trying to maintain hard chine performance in the forward turning direction. I harp on this point that this hull design is one to respect . The older I get the more I expect of all my model machines that I am lucky to see on computers, as we certainly have more need to respect the masters, the likes of Peter Du Cane and T E Lawrence and Hubert Scott Payne of Vospers and Thornycroft and The British Power Boat Company and ELCO and Higgins, all of whom I have researched so much over my life and I have been to the memorial of Lawrence in the desert in Wadi Rum. I try to do it right. Regards to all builders Lyle. My mates and I have to run in 2 to 3 inch chop at times, such is the Lake Channel ! My wife has reminded me that some of my fleet do seem to have BLACK hulls and I only would build one model boat, when I bought the Aerobats Crash Boat home, the pictures are of some of my scratch built fleet.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Thorneycroft 72 'MTB (Vic Speed)
    3 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Out here in the colony I have the Veron FPB ( 56inches?)S C40?/45 now from OS 55? and big heavy, a SC 45 and my Aerobats Crash Tender 46 inches which has over the years had an OS 35 , a 40 of some sort and now a SC 46 and a VERY heavy model and a Seaplane tender at 49 inches a SC 40 all running in Salt water at Lake Illawarra with my mates NSW Australia. Your hull at 72 inches ONLY needs a 40 or so/45 for power , We overpower our models too much, I just wore out my earlier motors over the many years and only 4:1 methanol and castor never was a nitro fan , but now my pestering mates nagged me to 3-5 % nitro as an oxygenator in my many motor boats ( incl steam and a sneaky small electric which in early trying to learn to sail to manoeuvre in my 50" thames Barge, now it is ballast). Hope this all help or I suffer your wrath. Yes we all run additional mufflers/resonators ( equal to quiet running of electrics ) and share the pond .Cheers Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ R.A.F Vosper Fire Boat
    3 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Mate , lovely to hear , I felt a bit poorly somewhat going at you as over the top, which was unwarranted. I ran my vessel the last two weekends with my mates at the Lake Illawarra channel ( see google maps?) South of Wollongong New South Wales Australia. Well we are just a bunch of old boaties , sick of clubs and fights and restrictions/ rules/ flat earthers. We have a lot of public look at us and the Council Ranger and staff lookeee see at times , but AS we are in zone of the Lake Channel HiGH/ LOW tidal mark any authorities do not want to know us. Here in OZ you can still boat as we have a lack of ponds in the land (not like your WW2 type ponds built in villages for water for vehicle fire tenders from FIRE and bombing raids). We have extensions on household insurance in OZ to cover liability and we tell any noisy race/race boat types to ".... off". We sail 1 meters etc thames barge, steam and electric and i/c and all big stuff we ALL run together on the water on the "pond", old sets 27 40 and 2.4 gig. And I spelt Peter Dimberline incorrectly with a T , so he will find out and knuckle me!! I do clean the engine bay with motor car degreaser spray and the decks cabin etc with household Kitchen cleaner and paper wipes. Such is good old Dulux house paint over the years. Fold down f'wrd mast , crane sits in a brass tube at the port engine bay ,rear mast sits on a peg at stern, rear stbd hatch opens, ALL to avoid knocks breakages of bits and over the years I have actually cast alloy bits in plaster-moulds and screwed down with brass. Just a standard red plastic graupner 40 mm prop (4mm thread?) this motor is a SC china copy ? of a OS40 I think , I just run her at the first plane to look nice, no rev head stuff as not necessary, wide turns, but goes so well in 2 inch to 4 inch chop no pounding/ bone shaking during winter runs as it HAS to perform SCALE on the pond rather than toy boat behaviour such as dig in and flick turns and she is heavy to handle waves! Just standard home made fuel 4 to 1 and my mates talked me out of Castor, so now I use synthetic lube . We share all things. Too much talkie . All the best and just fly out to join us good weather too .

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ R.A.F Vosper Fire Boat
    3 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Hope the searchlight now has a white ( painted body) as red is not scale. I think my early Fire Tender photos are somewhere in the picture gallery as some of the first/early photo's when Peter Timberline was out here in Australia and staying with us. regards Lyle. Nice model of yours. I opted for a lighter shade of Decking colour rather than the Blue water Navy blends. My girl now has its 4th Glow-plug engine after wearing the others out and is still running after some 40 or so years now and only the second prop shaft. Also, my vessel only has the luxury of Salt Water to operate in and I take a garden pressure sprayer with bi carb soda added to the flushing water at the shore. All the best runs.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Fairmile D
    6 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Hello from an Ossie, I am gob smacked at your detail, it is so good I bet you have messed up and the shoe laces on the boots of the crew are done incorrectly? ( well, I know they are wearing wellies, so it can only be that the buttons on the weather jacket are on the wrong side?) What a delight, a superb model of building and engineering. Very, very well done . See ya Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ RAF Air Sea Rescue Launch 2507
    6 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    I really was stoked on your selection and as I recall the Model Boats did an article in many many days past from a Mr John Pritchard as I recall. I wrote him from OZ for some years till he moved on and he helped me with all my BPBCo Model research and `ASR 'model types. I just never got to build a large scale Thornycroft type ( RY12 engines?) , so well done for a not too popular type and a real credit to your skills, maybe the ropes need to be painted with cold black coffee for that used dirty look as although the ASR types kept their boats pristine ( hence one could be built shiney and well kept and used , the rails and floors and ropes were a bit tatty and the steps downstairs and paint around the water exhausts and motor exhausts which damaged surrounding paint and the fore under hull was a area of damage . See the b/w movie For 'Those in Peril' and 'The Sea Shall not Have Them' , yes as an `Ossie I still love the old TRUE action movies which I still watch and watch . All the best Lyle..

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    ๐Ÿ“ diesel help
    6 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Mate , Peter Dimberline wrote to me to offer some help from a colonial in suggestions for you , has somebody taken the backplate off and re bolted it back without the crank pin engaging in the rotor hole in the fuel induction pin hole ? maybe the fuel needle has been replaced without a taper in the end of the needle and the pin being manufactured in the motor is a non genuine needle replacement ? is there any ether in the fuel mix as the ether may have been evaporated off in storage ? maybe the needle hole in the needle air carby throat valve outer tube is glugged up over storage time and the engine seems to run on the prime only , ( soak motor in ether or acetone or methylated spirits overnight to de glug old castor residue then drain shake dry remove partly the backplate just enough for solvent to dribble all out then retighten backplate screws , then put some light type oil sewing machine type light oil drops in holes of motor and finger turn over to get oil in the innards etc , the old racers tended to have the needle open from about 2 turns out to near 2 !/2 turns out to be at the sort of general running setting , maybe the needle was tooooooo far open ? maybe the induction hole in the carby is not in line to the throat into the rear crankcase induction so that fuel air is drawn horizontally into the chamber ( hard to describe but easy to mis assemble if someone previously has readjusted and misaligned the induction flow) ? sorry for so many ideas to you but as regards fuel level, I have had engines suck up fuel from the bottom pipe inlet easily an inch below the needle level , but even a half inch uphill suck up is ok even if the tank is say 2 inches thick as you get a sort of pressure head effect which is rich to lean in run . A better idea is to fit/build in a "chicken hopper effect" in the main tank to give an EVEN fuel flow rate of delivery to the carby. Old Team racers did this successfully and it is good for diesels. All the best Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ fire boat
    6 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Yes mate, diesels forever , they were the go in Oz and still in current use for an event called a F/F scramble event , still using the old Deacon and Cardinal and Gaucho designs and the old aero modeller Flying carpet design and Merlins, Mills's PAW's and hand made .75 diesels. it was just a matter that I just migrated to the 46 inch Crash Boat for the non f/f calm days (actually boating was at any day time when my F/F was only early dawn time in dewy fields) using my old worn out stunt engines in boats and thus my free flight days ended. Peter Dimberline has been out here twice now and can recommend my local boating sites to you in Lake Illawarra , just a bit far for weekend travel. Seems as though when you had a cut with diesel fuel it did not sting ( thanks to the ether) as for glow fuel I had at times a control line model catch alight in my learning glow motors from my fumbling days so that when I moved to I/c boats I never had one catch alight and they were so easy to start in the hull , even NEW out the box just bolted in and run in on the pond very rich ( also due to the better 'squish band 'piston machining and fitting in the early ABC type engines) that came on the market so that made for my replacing my crash boat 'donk' with a new motor and very quiet additional double exhaust systems and just plain ( non nitrated ) fuel. Ahhh , it is so good to just turn up throw a I/c model in the pond and with reliable radios of today , when I look back, I admire our tenacity and stick with it of yesteryear to enjoy the luxuries of todays modelling. Oz has a lot of space for modelling. regards Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ fire boat
    6 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Out here in the colony we run in salt and I think it is a PAW diesel ,I used still mix my own fuel of 20 % castor 40 % kero and 40% ether . To start your diesel it is necessary to back off the compression head screw also called vernier? over and over as they are so hard to start with the "comp on", everyone has a "secret ", I always start with such low compression ( summer and winter) out in the colony to get her 'run right setting' and slowly add a 1/8 or 1/4 turn as a a bit at a time when engaging the pull cord even if she pops I back off and re engage the cord etc rock it back and forth till a distinct bump , back off the comp a teeny bit again and give a good yank and usually it goes and just carefully adjust the needle from about 2 and a half turns in or out till a good run sound then do the comp off or on a bit then needle in or out a bit and comp on or back till a good run sound BUT at all times I am not too hard on the comp to over compress, rather less comp for me than a flat out runner which could go to lean and start to cook the engine etc. I found a good runner is better than a race horse. The preceding details is my trying to help with an engine for which ONE HAS to FIND and ESTABLISH the settings then for future runs I leave the needle alone and back off the comp each time say half a turn to three quarters just for an easy start in the model . Unlike other modellers I always start with less comp ( seems to encourage reliable starts ) with diesels over the years and wind on a bit to the running setting as it is easier for me rather than start at full run settings. Well that is my offer to help. Harder to say than see an actual demonstration. regards Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ ASL British Pwer Boat Co
    6 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Hello from the colony, I have the ASR whaleback from the old model boats plan and did the turrets from what were full glass type egg cup shaped domes which luckily had a glass moulded "o ring "base , I epoxied a brass plate to the glass side which had brass machine gun barrels already soft soldered and with gun flash muzzels etc . The skeletal framework of the glass domes were hand painted with humbrol or tamiya paints of gun metal with black streaks etc and the whole lot epoxied to a circular inner base which had a pre fitted centre bolt so that the turrets are able to traverse etc. The 15 to 18 years now vessel has a second ( first wore out) os 10 FSR marine glo engine ) standard fuel Ie no nitro) and in OZ we have to run in salt water ,so flushing is Important and the exhaust goes into a stern muffler so the exhaust actually exits the transom as per original in six exhausts. She weighs about 3 lbs or so and very quiet and good in rough water as a flush decker water over the deck sometimes enters the hull in very rough water, so she is well painted all inside , about 4 to 6 coats or more as I forget. I have seen salt and pepper glass shakers in antique shops as well, as old radio valves which would do . The "small coastal forces" webb site is great research. All the best Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ 46' Vintage RAF Crash Tender Re-do.
    7 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    It helps if I spell BREADTH correctly . My 30 year old 46 inch crash boat is pretty heavy at 25 pounds or so and with the widened ( not thickened) hull chines gets up on the plane very quickly at low power and stops that ugly "model boat spray effect" that shows a gigantic wash wave at the fore hull oversized to the proportions of the model. it works on my; I/C 49 inch scale BPBCo Type II Seaplane Tender, I/C Sea Queen,Electric Sea Rover, I/C Veron Fast Patrol boat, Model Boats plan I/C British Power BoatType II 'Whaleboat', Vic Smeed I/C Range Safety Launch and the Model Boats 'Black Marauder'I/C, which are all over 18/20 years young and as we do not have mill ponds in the Colony of Oz. I boat in the Channel to Lake ILLawarra ( look it up on Google Earth) which is ALL SALT WATER my models have to be designed tough to avoid corrosion, which is easy.I flush the cooling pipes at the site with fresh water mixed with BI carb Soda and dishwashing detergent. At home my models are cleaned with a typical plastic kitchen spray puff of fresh water mixed with plain vinegar (this vinegar and water recipe is promoted by non allergy/non chemical cleaning TV shows) and just wiped down with paper serviettes used at parties in 500 packs. The vinegar mix also CLEANS the engine bays of fuel oil (and on my STEAM boats) of all residue as well. Regards Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ 46' Vintage RAF Crash Tender Re-do.
    7 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Hello,in the very early days I did a article on my 46 inch crash boat on this webb site.A very good idea for this model is to double the chine spray rails to 1/8 inch thickness and doubled in braedth to 3/16 or 1/4 inch at least.They are not noticeable in the black painted hull area nor the red/copperoid under hull etc, but as my model is some very heavy in weight, the strakes just get her up so easily on the plane and are excellent 'stability rails in heavy chop hard rudder turns' and keep her up,flair/sand/taper the thickness of rails on the fore hull sides to blend in.A great design and hard working hull style in the rough. regards Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ RAF Crash Tender
    7 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Hi, I was so surprised at your having some printed pictures and two reference pages of the Fire Boat ? is a set of emailed copies of the two reference pages displayed on the right hand side of your picture available to be sent my email if your are inclined, please ? (I can forward my address for email) Certainly very nice to have . Regards Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ“ 46" Fire Boat Leaking Keel
    7 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Your message stated the ply layers were coming apart . Epoxy etc is only the solution AFTER stopping the ply de-laminating. invert the hull and watch all the fiddly bits fall out even when you have probably thought you removed most of them. Anyway dry the delaminating ply etc and paint removal on the uppermost edge then the true fix is to squirt cyno type glue/zap instant glue whatever it is called in the UK. I have aoso used thinned resin to soak but find the zap method most satisfactor .It is: waterproof, soaks into the ply, and strengthens and stops delaminating which will continue to ruin the model etc (as the ply bonding/glue? has broken down over the years) then follow the other suggestions to repair remedy etc. My Pt/ ASR/ Aerokits / patrol boats are wood and well over 32 minimum years young and I/c and the modern trick glues are now available to do "preservation" tasks with unlike days past.I went boating today with my "Black Marauder" from the Model Boats plan ( Taipan 19 glow) in the 5 to 6 inch chop today at the sea channel as in Australia we cannot be too choosey All the best from Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ RAF Crash Tender
    7 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Hello all you Fire Boat restorers, I carefully noted the rather belled style of the vents as less streamlined as compared to the bought ones and when the vent front edge is carefully sanded flush, I found suitably thickened in section, silicone "O rings" from my big box of multiple o rings pack as sold by car part and engineering shops. A small piece of plasticine was used to hold the rings in place and super glued to affix.With care the small dab of holding plasticine was uppermost to not stick as the glue ran around down due to gravity. When a few hours later the usual re paint of the modified vent was done,the paint adhered. I Oz I have to run in salt water at the lake entrance and no effects at all ( obviously). I love my I/c Fire boat ( some 34 /39 years or so) with its third engine now and I still cannot help myself as I did hinges for the rear hatch roof to now open. All the best for detailers. When Peter Dimberline stayed with us some years back he ran it at ballistic speed, which shocked me as I run it just up un the plane. (Secret) you can cheat and add an extra wide strip along the chine up to almost an additional 1/8 inch extra wide without visual loss to the lines of the vessel to help her get up and stay in a hard chop as mine is the 46 inch version and some 18 to 20 pounds in weight, so perhaps the smaller 34 inch version and electric may benefit from this idea as the smaller versions tend not to sit too well and seem too far out of the water exposing too much of the f'd keel for some reason? I really enjoy all the Fire Boat resurgence of you guys. Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Deans Marine Seaplane Tender
    8 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    HI Chris , well slacko Lyle is again alive and well . I am at *email removed - PM only* and home address at *address removed - PM only*. I have desperately searched the web and so little exists as to internal cabin and aft well pics. I have done the asr site and the coastal forces etc and the original John Pritchard moved so many years ago to the north of the UK and ceased to write, perhaps his health was going down . OI joined the returned asr club as a non serviceman and they have a good newsletter of the coastal forces of the still surviving returned servicemen of such a fine bunch who did so much for their nation. My surname is Gadsden , I have the 43 foot seaplane tender , the whaleback, the broad beamed seaplane tender and a part built 68 foot Hants and Dorset to finish one day . I am not too computer literate, sorry > See ya Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Aerokits Patrol Torped Boat
    8 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    HI harleydreaml, still looking at your Aerokits Torpedo boat and it is a very nice model from a colonials perspective. if I live long enough I may be lucky to obtain a set of copies of the hull formers and keel for a build . I have the Hebert Adams book of his model boats which he later led to his model boat kit company 'Adamcraft' and he did a set of drawings of a/the Elco type Torpedo Boat in his book. I always wondered whether the Aerokits EVER BORROWED the drawings to make the commercial model? Whatever happened, it is nice to see such a stunner model which was not too populace as the Crash Boat/Sea Queen sales etc. A now passed away mate had one 20 /30 years ago with a I/c 25/30? and it planed and turned flat and nicely. in OZ we still CAN operate I/c easy and do not need to trail out an electric cable for power to get more than 5 minutes on the pond? Keep building good craft. See ya Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Deans Marine Seaplane Tender
    9 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Hello Chris , We are back from interstate. My email in the colony is for the post card pics , please? I will sort out how to attach picture details of my big Seaplane tender. Lyle

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Deans Marine Seaplane Tender
    9 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Chris , may I ask for you to send off the p/card and photos , 366 655. I built a scratch 41 foot (5/6? inch), what does 1 inch matter. it was from the scale 4 sheet set (very expensive to Import all those years ago were the plans and bank fees unlike electronic money) of the broad beamed seaplane tender from the John Pritchard plans at 1 and 1/7 scale to give about 50 inches or so scale? and with a s/c china .40 I/c donk and my super quiet miuffler system which is as noisy as a noisy electric. I did the roof top carley float as per the model boats picture when at Lyme Regis bay? or base? Being a colonial I am not too sure of the town or port. Mine is about 26/28 years now , but I did the mast white painted and rigging wires of stainless steel wire with crimped loops to brass hooks for the standing rigging which comes off for transport ande the mast is pushed down into a deck fitting against a spring in the deck fitting to tension.Inside cabin fitted out with all gear and flooring and sreering wheel for the tiller. The aft cabin is a varnished wood wall as per the earlier 200 class seaplane tenders were with a varnished ( am I wrong?) at the aft deck floor area and the engine boxes light grey (must be wrong) and the aft fuel tank also light grey (also wrong?), which I use for r/c gear as the boxes have removable tops.I did the clip on safety ladder yellow as I had no idea of its colour and made brackets to hang it on the aft cabin wall. Any comments criticism would be welcomed, I like fine details in running models. She is a rough water craft as all my BPBCo models . We are interstate in OZ at daughters house doing minding for a few weeks and no model boats to run.I also have early site details of my Crash boat when Peter D came out to stay with us as we have been mates 30 + years See ya Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ“ Gannet 15cc engine
    9 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Hello from the colony. Well sparkie engines were my delight 1. The sparkie donks , need good cooling and very much so as they are hotter fueled petrol, but you need to have good large water pipes to enable a high rate of 'heat transfer ' in the water rate flow from the head or a large sized water cooling pipe diameter (say 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch pipe dia) from the pick up and through the model to exit . The principle is actually not to cool off the combustion running temperature of the cylinder but rather to allow for the departure of 'excess heat' from the combustion temperature. So many 'over cool' the engines rather than allow for normal operating temperature ' to continue. Hence engines are fiddled with in the Winter cold having so called poor performance when if allowed to operate at normal temperature they are then so reliable. Similar when in warmer water they need the excess above operating temperature heat to be dispelled. As best Illustrated in air cooled motor mower engines which rely upon the effective excess heat dissipation above that of normal combustion operation. 2. A good quality motor oil is essential and we used basic 'standard '/ 'neat' petrol in those days , probably low octane car unleaded is the equivalent today, however do not go for the ethanol additive fuel sold these days for motor cars as I think it is not suitable as it is a cocktail blend when the old motor pump fuels were more straight petrols without the chemical additives of todays engined fuels.3.Using nicads or nickel hydrides (?) not sure on actual chemical name for Ignition is great these days as they have more kick and do use a auxillairy pair of batteries for booster when starting as to not drain onboard battery supply to the coil. 4. Keep spark plug very clean and try to have a small paper type pad to insert between the points to 'dry" away excess oil to help spark jump across points. As it is the spark which is the only excuse for not too ready starts. 5.Sparkies should be easy to start these days with transistorised Ignition circuits and better current/ oomphah batteries and are easy on fuel gulping as very economical.6. But sometimes they can be a bit noisy but generally a good big 2''/3" daimeter muffler box/pipe say 3 to 4 inches long helps with noise dissipation. The exhaust energy is best dissipated with large rates of expansion in a large chamber then the following contraction into the exhaust pipe say 1/2 inch outlet to air and noise energy is thus lessened, good for all stable running boats but not too much approved by the high speed types who want Mach 1 performance horses and tuned exhausts etc. 7. Also the large capacity Sparkies ( not sure about the smaller capacity sparkies) can throw a heavy flywheel as low down power / grunt on less revs , hence can take a very large daI prop with a big pitch as steam boat props tend to do. 8. Remember it is not a high revving glo at 14,000 to 23,000 and more revs, but a nice high power for its day of latter day design and machining tollerances and mettalurgy. See ya from the colony. Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ“ Restoration Help!
    9 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    HI Lyle,

    Thanks for your message. I'm going to install a new prop shaft anyway. How far away from the rudder to you reckon the prop should sit?

    HI mate, back again from the colony, somebody spoke of spray rails should be built on your model already , well I do not presume upon prior builders always doing it right. There should be say 3/16 by 3/16 inch wooden strips at the chine where the side skins and lower hull sheets meet. These are what I referred to as helping in lift . The hull skin should flare at the bottom of the spray rail so that the base of the hull is a bit more in surface area ans try to keep the spray rail the 3/16 inch width towards the bow as this Imparts the larger lifting area at the transition point where the water recedes as the hull lifts higher as speed increases and the little extra surface area helps SO much in lift. Most modellers scrape this area of the spray rail down thin to flare with the hull. it is a choice between looks and performance. You can carefully re glue and reshape wooden spray rails as I have done it on my large seaplane tender ( scale I built at about 49 inches or so) to Improve lift AFTER it was finished and running. I just sanded the spray rail back and reshaped and flared extra strips and pegged them with wooden dowels for strength after glueing and redid them and on my Fast Patrol Boat, the old Veron 56 inch). So it all helps even to modify the model that bit extra, after finishing, after running in, after you learn something new!
    Rudder distance from the prop? Er, well a hard one to answer precisely say, the latter part of the prop is a 1/4 inch away from the leading edge of the rudder. ALSO if you reduce the 'front section' of the rudder, so that all the
    'meat' is abaft the pivot post, is not a good idea as rudders need a bit of meat ( rudder area) ahead of the post to actually ' help' the rudder to turn as it acts as a forward lever to assist the latter area to turn on the pivot. Even vertical tail fins of aircraft (not all) had/have some forward fin area ahead of the pivot point. A lot of heavy bombers of WW2 design and a lot of light planes designed and built since. Remember water and air can exhibit similar behaviors despite differing densities. Hope this helps a bit more, See ya Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ“ Restoration Help!
    9 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Hello there from the colony,You do need spray rails as they help the hull to lift and plane as every bit helps ( even with electric)on the crash boat.See my early shots of my crash tender which is I/c powered. Though your prop position is rather 'very'far away from the rudder ,. you should stay with the present rudder size , till the trials are finished on the pond , whenever that occurs!. As the prop wash gap may physically be far from the rudder the prop wash and water disturbance forces of such a large rudder area may assist in the hull turning against and through water density when under power, whatever motor is used. Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ“ Fixture on Range Safety Launches.
    9 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Hello there I also built the Range Safety Launch all those years ago & still running & with the second I/c motor or is it the third as I gave one away and the first wore out & now have an OS 25 FSR & is a very rough water type hull as a model & cuts the rough water away very well. Anyway the item is the 'basket ' radio aerial. EASY to make . I made a balsa plug or innards. I then bent wire around it to shape and held the wire close to the balsa plug binding with fuse wire. I soldered the top and the bottom (grinding away the wire rod 'overlaps' at the top and bottom as I added more of the wire rods) & the Range safety launch has a ring on the 'middle', actually, two 'rings' which I made of brass sheet strip & rounded & then wrapped around the middle and also soldered to the basket rod wires. The whole assembly with an added scale mounting bracket was all held so firm to the charred balsa plug. When all was made I picked out the balsa innards with a pin so to leave hollow. The wire basket was cut between the two central rings as on the RSL there is a gap in the middle ( as the rings hold the rods from springing apart on the original RSL) but the previously made mounting bracket holds the two rings apart . Then all painted etc and fixed to the folding mast. The mast hinged down f'ward to allow 'shipping' when on the slips and for repairs to access the upperworks of the mast. Lyle from OZ (see my prior crash boat 46 inch on the site).

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Aerokits Patrol Torped Boat
    10 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    mate, did you copy any of the formers of this model before building, such ? Lyle from Oz ( see my 46 inch Crash boat etc).

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    ๐Ÿ“ 46" Fire Boat Leaking Keel
    10 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    The general method of Tall Paul is very good. I have certainly dried out the wood thoroughly(in the Oz sunshine) {ON A FUEL SOAKED MODEL where the paint gave away afeter 10 years I even soaked the soaked area only with metho to absorb the oil and SET ALIGHT which burns the metho and put out after 1 to 2 seconds without model / wood burns AT ALL, us modellers are dions of adventure and Imagination for our hobby}. Anyway, I sand down generally ( total bare wood is not absolute just get most paint off as some stays in the grain holes. I then paint or dab in aquadhere (Poly Vinyl Acetate PVA) white wood glue( forget about telling me it is water soluble , yes it does eventually let go when soaked for a week but not when sealed as in a model ) Anyway try to glue the coming apart ply and clamp at least two days wherever you can to glue damaged bits.THEN BEFORE proceeding with the best tips from Paul mix your fibreglass resin with an EXTRA/double extra amount of drops or mls of the hardener only and thin it 30 to 40 percent with acetone thinners and as a paint runny, very runny paint it and watch it SOAK into the wood/paint model area forever and PRESERVE your model from, rot, water, oil, age deterioration, softening of wood and nasties from anywhere. Then when it is / has gone 'off' rememberadd double drops the extra hardener to 'fix' the fibreglass resin but it takes a lot slower to 'fix/set' the resin mix as it is thinned to soak,(actually you are just mixing a double amount of hardener in thinned resin and takes a while more to'fix/set') all experience and do tests on spare wood till you get the technique with longer to set/fix then follow Pauls best advice with the same resin seal/repair or cloth resin/ seal repair or addition of ply braces/ resin repair, whatever is your fancy, whatever . All the best Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ“ Paint Colours for fireboats
    10 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    The book is 'Fast Boats & Flying Boats' by Adrian Rance. Ensign Publiications 1989 of 2 Redcar street Southampton SO1 5LL isbn1-85455-026-8 bar code 9 781854 550262. Has to be long out of print. I have seen the book for sale on ebay at a not too cheap price.It has sooooo many pictures of the fast boat types, Speed record boats, MTB, MGB, MASB, Seaplane tenders, the BOAC tenders and data on boats constructed and my hero Aircraftsman 'Shaw', ( where we have been to his many sites in the desert(s) of Jordan & WadI Rum & seen his memorial & seen 'The Seven Pillars Of Wisdom' & he is still revered by the people of Jordan today. The Vospers, Scott Payne , Peter Du Cane, Thorneycroft, Crash Boats/Fire Boats all are ongoing develpoments in a link of like type vessels (small, special purpose,very fast , good lookers, somewhat light construction, hand made of wood types) and now gone.See ya Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ“ Paint Colours for fireboats
    10 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Well I will also have a go at this. The British Power boat Co of Hubert scott Payne were very much a natural wood finish type of boat finisher and a book on him called Fast Boats & Flying Boats has a colour shot of a natural wood cabin boat finished by that company as well as many natural wood areas used in boats as a finalglitzy finish, in his many products. As he and Vospers were not too paly in business why would we expect that Vospers would not continue to make ANY wooden finished (without paint) boat/cabin/structure look pretty spiffy and a great advertisment to their ship building, against any opposition, ( they even polished the brass cowl vents on their WW2 MTB's and MGB's prior to delivery to the RAN). Hence, I would suggest the original wooden finish cabins on the Crash Boats would be stunning with natural grain 'colour' ( why not a mahogany) and with a very very shiney marine varnish overcoat to protect the grain and glint mirror light to be a stunner to look at as an advertisment to the professional style and capability of the boatbuilding firm. My thoughts. Lyle.

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    ๐Ÿ“ 1:16th scale RAF crew
    10 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    Yeah yeah , whatever sized figures that can hold onto a fireboat when being torpedoed along the Corrimal creek Majestic Modellers group when under the mis-control of a speed demon who teaches an owner just how fast his Crash Boat can travel. I would be interested to know where? & have a lookee see about the tug figurines now (please) if not a secret ( unless they also are having a lunch break eating Kebabs as a rerward from their hard work as a racing machine service/repair/fire crew in disguised tug gear coveralls? ). The Cervia is 56 inches long at 1/24 scale from a hull of 112 feet. Lyle

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    ๐Ÿ“ Crash tender well deck leaking
    10 years ago by Lyle ( Master Seaman)
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    I have the 46 inch version I/C & does not run in reverse but any drips in the stern well is no matter . You have a bulkhead sealing to the forward (cabin housing the engine room in the full scale1:!). The hull bottom skin has to have many many coats of paint. The rear deck well is merely held in place sitting on two runners on each side of the hull inner sides and the well deck plate merely lifts up at the stern inner side and can slide forward under the towhook box arrangement then you put your finger under the rear well piece and lift up . Lyle.

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